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[South Yorkshire] [Roche Abbey] [Beef Buttress] [7A+ & 7A] (Read 1976 times)

JoelWood

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Yet again even more eliminates the buttress that just keeps giving  :2thumbsup:

I've put up two new lines on the faith area, basically eliminating the main hold used for both sides, left and right.

They might have been done before, would surprise more if they haven't!

They climb really well, they're on UKC and called Faithless LH/RH.

LH -

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/roche_abbey-1211/faithless_left_hand-593796

RH -

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/roche_abbey-1211/faithless_right_hand-593795

Anyone fancy giving them a go and legitimising them?

They really are surprisingly independent lines! There is also vimeo links on the UKC entries if people aren't sure where they go.

Cheers!

Steve R

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I did what you've called faithless left hand about 10 years ago.  Suspected (and was told) it was done at least another 10 years before that but not recorded as it's pretty elim.  Thought it was good and worth recording (never did though!) so nice one on doing that.  Also thought it was 7a+ according to a quick check of my circa 10 year old facebook posts (cringe central).  Don't know about the right hand version but as you say, would be surprising if not done at some point before too.

JoelWood

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Ah yeah I would've been very very surprised if they hadn't been done before!

I wouldnt say they were that eliminate though, but each to their own, they're both absolutely class lines.

Yeah 7A+ felt about right, there's some tough moves on not so good holds, if the nornal faith got it for a nicer hold then.

The right hand line is just as class too, has a real nice lock off for the tiny crimps in the seems just next to the crack, worth trying if you haven't!

abarro81

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I'm sure they're worthwhile climbing, but we have very different ideas of what makes a good line!

sdm

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We did Faithless LH before too. I thought 7A+ as well.

Don't think we tried a RH version.

JK

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This is off topic, but I wondered how the various buttresses here faired after rain, i.e. is it likely to be ok tomorrow?

JoelWood

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Theyre fine after rain 👍 I've been on gypsy in a monsoon style downpour, if its humid and there's moisture in the air it does pick it up then. If its straight down rain though basically perma-dry!

JK

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Awesome, thanks!

 

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