[dunnyg]

Im off on my jollies to the north edge of dartmoor. Looking for recomendations for unmissable problems up to 7A, maybe 7B. Ideally with easier stuff nearby. Ive come across javu, but could do with narrowing it down a bit. Previously been to bonehill, haytor and hound tor but I was mostly tradding or quick hits.

Also any mtb routes for punters would be greatly appreciated!

[Ged]

Don't ignore the coast. If you're up on the North Moor it's not that far to Hartland area, and the stuff there is vastly superior to the Moor. Some stuff around Torquay is also very good.

When are you going? If its soon then the wooded areas are likely to be a bit overgrown still.

[Oldmanmatt]

Gidleigh was peach today and it’s a pretty little spot with a few nice problems, though mainly a little easier than your ask. “The Nose” is surprisingly satisfying for a 6A.

I’ve been trying to get in some of the more esoteric stuff this week. Tunhill was nice for a change of scene too.
I find Stonelands and Bearacleave have suited for solo jaunts as there’s quite a few interesting problems that don’t need a spotter.

Pissing around on “Devon sent” is great, as long as nobody can see how little progress I’m making...

[teestub]

Don't ignore the coast. If you're up on the North Moor it's not that far to Hartland area, and the stuff there is vastly superior to the Moor. Some stuff around Torquay is also very good.

This x100.  The coastal rock is so much nicer than the tors and Hartland is stunning. Carnage slips into your requirements at 7B and is a countrywide classic. Easier problems in the trench area.

Also dependent on where you are potentially not too far to pop over into Kernow and to Tintagel. Purple Haze, 7A also classic.

[SA Chris]

If you are keen on exploring the moorland stiff, the new CC Guide is worth a buy / borrow.

I always enjoyed a wander around Smallacombe, great place for a lower grade circuit day.

[Ged]

Gidleigh was peach today and it’s a pretty little spot with a few nice problems, though mainly a little easier than your ask. “The Nose” is surprisingly satisfying for a 6A.

I’ve been trying to get in some of the more esoteric stuff this week. Tunhill was nice for a change of scene too.
I find Stonelands and Bearacleave have suited for solo jaunts as there’s quite a few interesting problems that don’t need a spotter.

Pissing around on “Devon sent” is great, as long as nobody can see how little progress I’m making...

Tunhill is great isn't it.

I've always fancied a "best 6's in the south east Moor by foot" day out. BBB in Bovey, along to cartoon lands for Mufassa, up to Lustleigh for cowboy butcher and clockwork orange, becka Brook for that awesome 6c arete, rowes arete, then over to smallacombe for orphan, something at hound tor, rippled wall at bonehill, then finish on Mr Wilson at Tunhill

[andy_e]

If you are keen on exploring the moorland stiff

Careful, you can get arrested for that kind of thing

[SA Chris]

Where the bodies are buried..

[dunnyg]

Yeah, hartland is about an hour away, as is baggy, haytor etc., so nothing is too far. I had spied the trench, eill check out the 7B. Other half is mad keen om the sea, so coastal bouldering will keep everyone happy.

[BrutusTheBear]

I live on the NDevon coast..The woods are ok at the moment although it has been too warm this week which means ants and the odd European hornet will be busy and connies will be poor.  I have visited when there have been some cooler evenings and mornings in recent weeks though. 
Of course the coast is great and you're less likely to need a day to grow skin back from the coastal rock.  However, you will need to coincide your visit to 2/3 hours either side of low tide (check tide times on magicseaweed).  It'll take you 1hr+ to get up here.  Hence, I tend to visit the moors when tides are at the wrong time for me.
Anyway here's some 7s that I reckon should be on your list.
Hartland-Carnage 7b, Trench Eliminate 7a, Clinical Edge 7b.
Northcott- The Pinch 7a, Red Quinnie Traverse 7a+.
Duckpool- Campus Mentis 7a
Lynmouth-Chimpanze Achne 7a, The Odyssey 7b, Monster Tide 7b, Slopey Traverse Extension 7b.
Moorland granite-
Bonehill- The Wave 7a, left Arete of the Scoop 7b, Under The Bridge 7a.
Hound Tor - Cream Traverse 7b (soft in good connies), Barrel Rockover sitter 7b.
Saddle Tor - Dancing Queen 7b (pure class one of the best at the grade in the UK.)
Combeshead Tor - Dyno from Undercuts 7a (soft but very good), the circuit of sub 7s here is superb worth travelling across to.
Woodland areas.
Bovey Woods - Bread Crumb Trail sit start 7a, Slotted Wall 7a+, Dog Dick Arete sit start 7a.
Lustleigh Cleave - Butcher Baker 7a (Cowboy Butcher 6c on same bloc is brill), Over The Hill 7a, Hung Like a Chimp 7a.
There's loads of other stuff to go at smaller venues but these spots have plenty of sub 7 problems to warm up on or slink off to with your tail between your legs. Dartmoor grades can feel a little stern.

[SA Chris]

There's also tons of MTB to do, Quantocks have a stack. the trailforks app is worth a download, but stacks of info online

[dunnyg]

That looks like a good list! I've always found the granite nails to be honest, so if I can scrape up a 7A i'll be chuffed. Carnage looks mint. Fingers crossed for some dry weather. If it is baking we can always do some trad. Thanks so much for the info. I am psyched off my noggin, probably mostly due to a change of 4 walls for a bit!

[ben]

I've always fancied a "best 6's in the south east Moor by foot" day out. BBB in Bovey, along to cartoon lands for Mufassa, up to Lustleigh for cowboy butcher and clockwork orange, becka Brook for that awesome 6c arete, rowes arete, then over to smallacombe for orphan, something at hound tor, rippled wall at bonehill, then finish on Mr Wilson at Tunhill

Ooo some new ones for me to check out there - thanks!  and yeah that would be a good day out, perhaps needs a catchier name though

[Ged]

They maybe get ignored because they aren't 7A,but Mr Wilson, orphan, BBB, and mufassa are amongst the best on the Moor I think

[BrutusTheBear]

Totally agree with them Ged all class, BBB is particularly memorable, the crux would be spicey on your own with one pad.   
I think the moors are particularly good for sub 7 stuff.
Some Sub 7 Dartmoor must dos for me->  Rippled Wall, Mezzotinter, Proof of Concept, Cowboy Butcher, Clock Work Orange,  Full Length Feature,  Love Bugs (5+ and*****), 5c Wall, Easdon Crack, Death Jug Mantle... there’s loads! Both Combeshead and Smallacombe are great for easy circuits away from the madding crowds.

[shurt]

Orphan is an awesome problem. Never gets any press. Clockwork Orange is also brilliant. Couldn't do CB it's a quality prob though.

The day out sounds really good. All those 6s feel like the beast or the devil should make it into the title...

[Oldmanmatt]

We just decided to hit Hartland on Sunday, because the tides look good and despite visiting a couple of weeks ago, I haven’t climbed there since I lived in Wadebridge in the early 90’s.

This might be the last weekend of fine weather for a good while and...

I am almost certainly going to be disappearing on the 28th, for several months.

[SA Chris]

If it is baking we can always do some trad.

The world is your lobster in that respect. Dewerstone is great in hot weather, and Hayton / Low Man are always breezy.

[BrutusTheBear]

Looking cooler and breezier for the upcoming week, we might be dodging some showers in the week.
Also BIGGEST spring tides of the year at the moment beware the incoming tides!
Took 4 of my pupils for their weekly surf this morning, howling easterlies today, drying everything out nicely, looks similar for the rest of the weekend.  Should be good on the coast.

[dunnyg]

Buzzing.

[BrutusTheBear]

Have fun!

[turnipturned]

Bit of scenery to get you psyched:

[BrutusTheBear]

  beautiful stuff Turnip.

[dunnyg]

Those shots of hartland are amazing, good viddy.

[dunnyg]

Bit of feedback. Tide, weather and team psyche never coincided for a trip to the coast bouldering. However we did end up at hound tor, where between climbing many pleasant 4s and 5s, I managed to tick a few harder things too. Highlights include honey traverse (good tip!) and prowed. Top spankings were wish, and Alan smith stand. Hardest V4 ive in a while!
Also managed to get to baggy and have an adventure on lost horizon. Awesome route. Turns out my trad is rusty.
Keen to return ASAP for more adventures. Hartland is top of the list!