[wniefred]

I'll have the opportunity to do a load of outdoor bouldering soon, and I'm making a ticklist around this grade range. I will be stationed in Leeds, but I don't mind traveling.

Any style is good, suggestions would be greatly appreciated. 

[Fiend]

A Little Sparkle at Guisecliff is one of the best 7As I've done in Yorkshire.

[wniefred]

Thanks, added!

[tomtom]

There are hundreds - of problems that fit that bill within striking range of Leeds. If you’ve not done so already - buy a guide and work your way through the starred problems. Near Leeds you have Almscliff and Caley close by - that have stacks of great problems. Brimham, Ilkley - plenty of other places too...

[wniefred]

There are hundreds - of problems that fit that bill within striking range of Leeds. If you’ve not done so already - buy a guide and work your way through the starred problems. Near Leeds you have Almscliff and Caley close by - that have stacks of great problems. Brimham, Ilkley - plenty of other places too...

Yeh thats a good idea... Is the star rating on the ukc site the same as in the green ymc yorkshire bouldering guide? Also how well do star problems correlate with quality in your opinion?

[webbo]

Does it really matter that much. It’s not going to that bigger deal if you find a 3 star problem is only worth 2 in your opinion.

[Will Hunt]

Very difficult to know where to even begin. There's hundreds and hundreds. I'd suggest cracking on with the major venues (Almscliff, Caley, Brimham etc) and branch out from there. Plenty of videos to watch on YouTube and Vimeo to get you psyched.

[SA Chris]

Recommend you don't start with Almscliff, as you will end up spending a lot of time there anyway when it's shit everywhere else!

[Bonjoy]

  Save it for the much needed 'plan b' on marginal conditions days.

[Will Hunt]

That's very good advice actually. Have a day or two there when you're getting started but make sure you leave plenty to do for the hundreds of visits you'll inevitably make on days when circumstances dictate a visit to the country's most reliable spot.

[SA Chris]

We used to call it Plan B

[wniefred]

Ok will keep that in mind about Almscliff. Ive realised what a goldmine this area is and have already created a huge ticklist. Caley and earl crag in particular look amazing.
Thread closed

[Bonjoy]

Caley generally faces north and is particularly fickle conditions wise. So, in contrast to Almscliff should be top of the priority list if/when suitable conditions arrive.

[wniefred]

Caley generally faces north and is particularly fickle conditions wise. So, in contrast to Almscliff should be top of the priority list if/when suitable conditions arrive.

are conditions at caley not good at this time?

[wniefred]

Caley generally faces north and is particularly fickle conditions wise. So, in contrast to Almscliff should be top of the priority list if/when suitable conditions arrive.

imo caley looks to have better problems in this range, at least from looking at guides/videos. im also biased to woods though

[tomtom]

Bits of Caley can get green in winter - so there’s a sweet spot in autumn when the bracken has died down and the green hasn’t emerged - and likewise in spring - when the green dries out and departs and before all the foliage grows again.

That said there’s plenty of spots there outside of those times that are ok. But those crisp Late autumn mornings..

[Bradders]

Caley is the best bouldering venue in Yorkshire (and arguably the UK) when it's cold and dry. Sadly those two things don't often coalesce, and some of the best problems can stay wet for months in winter. Also right now it's basically a jungle in places which can be a total nightmare.

Easily best time to visit is Spring, when there's no foliage up but the weather is generally drier and things get a chance to dry out. Also as it faces North you can often get reasonable conditions later into the season than the South or West facing crags.

Have you climbed on gritstone before?

[wniefred]

Caley is the best bouldering venue in Yorkshire (and arguably the UK) when it's cold and dry. Sadly those two things don't often coalesce, and some of the best problems can stay wet for months in winter. Also right now it's basically a jungle in places which can be a total nightmare.

Easily best time to visit is Spring, when there's no foliage up but the weather is generally drier and things get a chance to dry out. Also as it faces North you can often get reasonable conditions later into the season than the South or West facing crags.

Have you climbed on gritstone before?

ok thanks, zoo york looks amazing....
and no never climbed gritstone before

[SA Chris]

OMGG a trove of treasures await you.

Large sections of Caley are free from jungle, but some bits will be shoulder deep in bracken, avoid if you have any hayfever.

[moose]

Ok will keep that in mind about Almscliff. Ive realised what a goldmine this area is and have already created a huge ticklist. Caley and earl crag in particular look amazing.
Thread closed

My bit of local beta is don't go to Earl with sore skin or when fatigued.  I personally find the grading there harsh and the rock savagely sharp / abrasive; underpar arms and fingertips there are a recipe for a frustrating and painful day!

[wniefred]

Ok will keep that in mind about Almscliff. Ive realised what a goldmine this area is and have already created a huge ticklist. Caley and earl crag in particular look amazing.
Thread closed

My bit of local beta is don't go to Earl with sore skin or when fatigued.  I personally find the grading there harsh and the rock savagely sharp / abrasive; underpar arms and fingertips there are a recipe for a frustrating and painful day!

ok will keep that in mind. i read on the internet that caley is especialy abrasive on the skin, and that almscliff is less so. Earl is more even more abrasive than caley?

[SA Chris]

Depends on the problem. I never really noticed a difference. You'll soon suss it all out. Earl is worth avoiding if at all windy, can be brutally cold up there,

[Bradders]

ok thanks, zoo york looks amazing....
and no never climbed gritstone before

It certainly is! Completely atypical for grit, but amazing.

My bit of local beta is don't go to Earl with sore skin or when fatigued.  I personally find the grading there harsh and the rock savagely sharp / abrasive; underpar arms and fingertips there are a recipe for a frustrating and painful day!

It's brilliant though...

[moose]

Earl tends to be very rough grained, crozzly, and pebbly - rips the skin.  Almscliff and Slipstones are comparatively smooth and fine grained - but there are lots of thin "match stick" holds that can split tips.  Brimham is more one for full palm and finger abrasion - lots of scrittly slopers to sand-paper the unwary. 

Caley is very varied - rough, smooth, lots of slopers (but generally well consolidated), lots of crozzly crimps. My favourite crag when in nick; but I have left after an hour of falling down rabbit holes and making no head-way through head-height bracken, to find damp rock. 

Crookrise has good stuff too - decent winter venue as south-facing and relatively quick drying but without the crowds that would suggest (a 40 min walk-in that can be a bit boggy).  Some good stuff on Barden Moor (Crookstones, Lords Seat) and on the unknownstones website too (e.g. Yeadon) - nice if you fancy a change, no crowds, and a breezy midge-free crag in Summer.

[wniefred]

ok thanks, zoo york looks amazing....
and no never climbed gritstone before

It certainly is! Completely atypical for grit, but amazing.

how is it atypical for grit?