[ducko]

Totally makes sense about keeping grading in the area accurate within the scope of the area.
the point was highlighting that the grades are going to be out if the ‘G’ is the reference (that’s a compliment if anything as it most likely means the sandbag express has rolled through the lakes and the blocs are even harder than stated!)

I guess the only way to really iron out the grades is for people to repeat and give honest opinions based on their personal experience, unfortunately there are very few on the planet who could really give accurate thoughts except for a handful of people strong in that style or perhaps the MellowCru.

The films amazing the Climbing’s inspiring as hell, it was merely a comment to suggest that comparatively  across the globe the grades will be out (it only bothers me in the sense if I walk an hour to a crag to try problem X that’s ‘within my grade range’ only to find its two or three grades out I’d be disappointed as time is a precious commodity for most - I’m to fat and weak to try any of aidans blocs as an obvious point)
   
Again the lads a mutant and a nice guy the film is Fabulous, it’s just a passing comment.

If you liked Doyle initial G film I recommend a viewing of his latest addition.

I’ll return myself (fresh from cleaning a handful of new blocs and a two hour board session) to sitting on my couch.

[Yossarian]

I thought it was brilliant, and a very nice portrait of stunning Lakes boulders.

I did think that the title jarred slightly with the extremely British (and polar opposite of golden era Jerry) imposter syndrome vibe. I think it would've made more sense if they'd called it A Handful of What Might Be Really Quite Hard Boulders in England, or Nine FAs and some Numerals.

Or maybe just Aidanimal...

[Doylo]

It’s no surprise to me Aidan went on to great things. I was in the training room at Kendal years ago and Greshy was testing Aidan: “ oh Aidan these scores are through the roof”. He’s a very sincere bloke so when he said that my ears pricked up.

[nai]

Or maybe just Aidanimal...

Aid climbing

[Teaboy]

I did think that the title jarred slightly with the extremely British (and polar opposite of golden era Jerry) imposter syndrome vibe. I think it would've made more sense if they'd called it A Handful of What Might Be Really Quite Hard Boulders in England, or Nine FAs and some Numerals.

Or maybe just Aidanimal...

I thought that was a reference to the quality of climbing rather than just Aidan himself, the bit where he was talking about there being no need to travel because there were things as good as Colorado etc.

[Yossarian]

It was the way it was suffixed by his name, rather than: The Jolly Nice Lake District...

He obviously is though, so it’s quite apposite.

I would like to see a prequel called Worldclass: The Legend of Jerry Moffatt

[Pantontino]

Really enjoyed that, very inspiring.

[Pantontino]

If ever someone that good starts operating in North Wales they will be spoilt for choice for hard projects. I'll even write them a list!

We've got some useful lads (DC, Katz, Ducko, Luke Fletcher, Pete Robins etc) but nothing like Aidan's level, yet.

[petejh]

Or maybe just Aidanimal...

Aid climbing

Brilliant!

[tc]

Really enjoyed that, very inspiring.

Couldn't agree more. Excellent 👌

[A.Greenhorne]

Totally makes sense about keeping grading in the area accurate within the scope of the area.
the point was highlighting that the grades are going to be out if the ‘G’ is the reference (that’s a compliment if anything as it most likely means the sandbag express has rolled through the lakes and the blocs are even harder than stated!)

I guess the only way to really iron out the grades is for people to repeat and give honest opinions based on their personal experience, unfortunately there are very few on the planet who could really give accurate thoughts except for a handful of people strong in that style or perhaps the MellowCru.

The films amazing the Climbing’s inspiring as hell, it was merely a comment to suggest that comparatively  across the globe the grades will be out (it only bothers me in the sense if I walk an hour to a crag to try problem X that’s ‘within my grade range’ only to find its two or three grades out I’d be disappointed as time is a precious commodity for most - I’m to fat and weak to try any of aidans blocs as an obvious point)
   
Again the lads a mutant and a nice guy the film is Fabulous, it’s just a passing comment.

If you liked Doyle initial G film I recommend a viewing of his latest addition.

I’ll return myself (fresh from cleaning a handful of new blocs and a two hour board session) to sitting on my couch.

Maybe you should go to the lakes to try these blocs? Only then could you truly assess yourself and find a position within the hierarchy. After starting to read that world class post I realised there was no need... a chant was raised and floated gently through the evening air ‘the king is dead, long live the king, the king is dead, long live the king’ and much bog roll was used.

[cheque]

Yeah that was a cool film. As an outsider to both Lakes bouldering and proper hard bouldering full stop I enjoyed it a lot more than I expected. I agree with the comment (way) above about phone footage to the extent that it’s great to see authentic uncut film of the actual ascents but in the case of the phone-in-shoe style clips earlier in the film, when you’re watching someone path a problem that you can’t gauge the angle or the size of the holds of properly and don’t have prior knowledge of it then it might as well be 6b+ as 8b+. I got a lot more idea of what I was really watching from the ascents where the camera was moving.

Biggest strength of the film I thought was that the talking heads were limited to climbers right in his peer group- I was expecting people like Randall or Gresham repeatedly foaming about the guy’s talents in the mould of many of these “isn’t this kid good?” flicks but by restricting the job to people who were more reticent in that department it was way more watchable than I expected. Biggest weakness was that apart from the mention of Gaskins & grades the story is essentially told in the first ten minutes and the rest is just an aesthetic Lakes problems/ hard ascents pr0no with a really fucking hard one toward the end. Probably the best way to do it though- I certainly had more appetite for that than another “Ken Burns-style panning across childhood training photos” doc!

[teestub]

and the rest is just an aesthetic Lakes problems/ hard ascents pr0no with a really fucking hard one toward the end.

This is pretty much what I signed up for!

[36chambers]

Yeah that was a cool film. As an outsider to both Lakes bouldering and proper hard bouldering full stop I enjoyed it a lot more than I expected. I agree with the comment (way) above about phone footage to the extent that it’s great to see authentic uncut film of the actual ascents but in the case of the phone-in-shoe style clips earlier in the film, when you’re watching someone path a problem that you can’t gauge the angle or the size of the holds of properly and don’t have prior knowledge of it then it might as well be 6b+ as 8b+. I got a lot more idea of what I was really watching from the ascents where the camera was moving.

If only it including footage of Varian and Jack trying the problems and getting spat off, that would certainly add some difficulty perspective to them.

[tomtom]

I would love to see/hear Jack and Dan commentating (together) on the Olympic climbing.

Please make it happen 🤞

[remus]

Another one that slipped under the radar. FA of 'Ebbing the Flow' at Biblins cave https://www.instagram.com/p/CK9TXiBD47v/

Not aware of a grade, but it was mooted as an ~8B project and given the amount of time James Squire has spent down there I imagine he's put some time in to it.

[Orrincoley]

Another one that slipped under the radar. FA of 'Ebbing the Flow' at Biblins cave https://www.instagram.com/p/CK9TXiBD47v/

Not aware of a grade, but it was mooted as an ~8B project and given the amount of time James Squire has spent down there I imagine he's put some time in to it.

It's another one that sits in the "hard as fuck" category and there's a reason it hadn't been done before.
Might be wrong but I seem to remember James suggesting it could be about 8B+ at one point a year or two ago.
Also interestingly I was always of the thought it'd be a sit start, was somewhat surprised with how he started it. Probably adds about 2 trickyish moves, but not all that good moves (I think...)

[Bradders]

Looks like an onsight, or as though he's hardly practiced the moves anyway.

[ducko]

The gop had its pants pulled down last night, crazy performance inc a flash of paper birds..

[fatneck]

Strong scenes! 

Makes the Gop look much better than when I last looked at it.

Nice to see Mr Stoopid too...

[petejh]

'kin hell. That was filmed over the last two years right..

[Fultonius]

'kin hell. That was filmed over the last two years right..

It was just the same problem filmed form 7 different angles, no?

[Nibile]

Jesus. Fucking. Christ.
I cannot help but quote Pantera: another level of confidence and power.

[ducko]

Jesus. Fucking. Christ.
I cannot help but quote Pantera: another level of confidence and power.

I’ve never seen anyone that strong at board style problems, very strong indeed

[battery]

Jesus. Fucking. Christ.
I cannot help but quote Pantera: another level of confidence and power.

I’ve never seen anyone that strong at board style problems, very strong indeed

I often find vids of really strong climbers leave me a bit flat - I think it's because what the climbers are doing seems so far beyond what will ever be possible for me - but this has got me well psyched!