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AidanWad (Read 41019 times)

JackPal

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#175 Re: AidanWad
August 18, 2021, 04:46:16 pm
Sweet, presume he has done the project at Dove? Well good, pretty hardcore venues in the Lakes these days!!

Sit to dark edges would be good!


Yeah Dove. Did goldfinger too yesterday.

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#176 Re: AidanWad
August 18, 2021, 05:24:06 pm
Thanks Jack. Is his left to right basically an extension of your 300kg traverse?

Sounds like he needs to stop messing about on the ladder face linking easy moves together and get on the hard moves 😄

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#177 Re: AidanWad
August 18, 2021, 05:53:57 pm
Yeah thatís basically it. He stayed low all the way though, climbing almost downwards from the opera stand start holds, which is what I did on the FA of the stand and finishing up power pinch, I later found out you didnít need to do that and could meet PP higher up so did that for the sitters I added. The other direction is more impressive imo, it has a nails section that I think only him and Dan have linked into anything (flipnic).

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#178 Re: AidanWad
August 18, 2021, 06:24:54 pm
Could the right to left extend into coming up for air?

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#179 Re: AidanWad
August 18, 2021, 06:58:46 pm
Does that start on the crack face? If so then yeah, you could even start right round the back to the left of special cases.

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#180 Re: AidanWad
August 19, 2021, 11:57:46 am
Does that start on the crack face? If so then yeah, you could even start right round the back to the left of special cases.

Out of interest, where did he start the left to right one? Gaskins apparently did it from the shield (start of spring chicken) many years agoÖÖÖ!! (How many dots would you like  :lol:)

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#181 Re: AidanWad
August 19, 2021, 12:18:10 pm
Does that start on the crack face? If so then yeah, you could even start right round the back to the left of special cases.

Out of interest, where did he start the left to right one? Gaskins apparently did it from the shield (start of spring chicken) many years agoÖÖÖ!! (How many dots would you like  :lol:)

Erm yeah not that far left. Aidan started as per picnic left hand. Donít think enough dots exist.

Can you imagine doing the shield start into the trav and then move man ffs? I was blowing out my arse on the link you did which starts in a similar place then just finishes up hot air. Canít fathom climbing into picnic left hand and then doing a probable 8B from there and after all that it not even being properly recorded.

300 kilo weights indeed.

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#182 Re: AidanWad
August 20, 2021, 10:46:42 pm
Video's up:

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#183 Re: AidanWad
August 21, 2021, 05:41:46 pm
 :wub: JIMMY :wub:

Am I right in thinking that Wedge is an off-shoot / re-brand of Lawson Beta Productions who virtually pioneered the unwatchable choppy cuts and naff editing bollox in the UK?? And now they're doing stuff like this which is so enjoyably calm, down-to-earth and clear?? Really good stuff, I like the refreshing simplicity of it, good footage, good fun banter, chilled music. These really let the climbing and vibes of the days out speak for themselves, even the "Tor Of The North" bowderstone footage was fun, especially the slab finish. And plenty enough Jimmy which was great.

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#184 Re: AidanWad
August 21, 2021, 08:30:43 pm
the "Tor Of The North" bowderstone

You take that back!  :chair:

Yes Wedge is essentially Sam, who was the main videographer behind Lawson Beta anyway. Was going to say it really is brilliant to have him keen to follow Aidan, Jim, etc. around documenting their ascents. Fantastic footage / editing.

Incredible climbing again from Aidan. Just so much control!

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#185 Re: AidanWad
August 21, 2021, 10:14:45 pm
All the videos on the channel are really well made, but this year they've been getting better and better. Great to be able to see the stuff Aidan + Jim have been doing, in such good quality films.
Hope they've got more planned this year - I've been getting used to new videos every week or so, I think we've been a bit spoilt!

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#186 Re: AidanWad
August 22, 2021, 08:45:51 am
Saw he went to the cave. Anyone know if he went upto pill box to do the gaskins problem?

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#187 Re: AidanWad
August 22, 2021, 10:04:03 am
Saw he went to the cave. Anyone know if he went upto pill box to do the gaskins problem?

Yeah I wonder this, it definitely needs a repeat :whistle:

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#188 Re: AidanWad
September 26, 2021, 07:42:15 pm
Hey,
Does anyone know what wrist brace Aidan wears?
I get occasional overuse issues between work and climbing , forcing me to tape my wrist.
I tried a somewhat similar looking but thinner brace a while ago, it did not work: too thin.

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#189 Re: AidanWad
September 26, 2021, 07:58:23 pm
Itís brace for a TFCC tear I think. If you google TFCC tear brace lots come up. I bought one thinking I had this after doing an internet diagnosis on myself :slap: It didnít work as I have arthritis according to the X-rays and Orthopaedic consultant.

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#190 Re: AidanWad
September 26, 2021, 08:17:37 pm
Hey,
Does anyone know what wrist brace Aidan wears?
I get occasional overuse issues between work and climbing , forcing me to tape my wrist.
I tried a somewhat similar looking but thinner brace a while ago, it did not work: too thin.

Not sure on his, but I use this one: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08J7LD1S2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My physio (also a climber) tried it and thought ti was much better than the ďproperĒ one he got from a physio company. Also benefits from being:

1) £13 for two (his was £30 for one)
2) Nice fabric which doesnít rub at all
3) Available in pink

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#191 Re: AidanWad
September 26, 2021, 11:01:19 pm
Video's up:

Iíve just watched that with a few sentimental tears threatening to make an appearance. I spent so many hours at the Bowderstone, working away on various things. To see Aidan climbing there is phenomenal, and he is quite literally managing the things I thought were make believe in years gone by. Iíve had to give up bouldering due to injuries, and a failing body, kids, work etc the list goes on. But seeing projects get despatched and the calm way it happens is brilliant. Iím part smiling, part crying. What a funny old place to be.

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#192 Re: AidanWad
October 01, 2021, 04:05:41 pm
Don't know if this is a recent thing or not but sounds like Aidan has added a sit start to Home, an existing 8B of Dan Varian's at Carrock Fell. I guess it'll be pretty hard!

https://www.instagram.com/p/CUfFeEoDww1/

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#193 Re: AidanWad
October 02, 2021, 04:49:59 pm
Don't know if this is a recent thing or not but sounds like Aidan has added a sit start to Home, an existing 8B of Dan Varian's at Carrock Fell. I guess it'll be pretty hard!

https://www.instagram.com/p/CUfFeEoDww1/

Aidan has posted about it:

https://www.instagram.com/p/CUh1fdOj9Mk/?utm_medium=copy_link

Allegedly "8B+" if you have 8C+ finger strength.

Not bad for a throwaway try at the end of the session.

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#194 Re: AidanWad
October 03, 2021, 08:09:55 am


ďAllegedly "8B+" if you have 8C+ finger strength ď

Exactly, I read ďI hurt my 8C+ fingers on this, then I went home, trained my young and godly fingers some more, then it didnít feel desperate anymore..Ē

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#195 Re: AidanWad
October 03, 2021, 10:50:42 am
Allegedly "8B+" if you have 8C+ finger strength.

I've never understood this - is it a reasonable way of grading?

This is what he said about Tranquilas (KotT sit)
Quote
Iíll propose a very stern 8B+ based on the difficulty when everything is executed perfectly though I feel at least 8C level strength is likely needed in the right hand to make this accessible and avoid some extreme frustration. That being said, some more vertical reach could possibly make the sequence a little less physical.

If you need to be climbing 8C to do it, then why is it not 8C? (The height thing doesn't count IMO, you'd never normally downgrade something just because it can be lanked.)

Getting strong fingers and then saying it's not too bad doesn't mean it's not too bad - it means you need strong fingers to do it!

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#196 Re: AidanWad
October 03, 2021, 11:01:25 am
Allegedly "8B+" if you have 8C+ finger strength.


I've never understood this - is it a reasonable way of grading?

This is what he said about Tranquilas (KotT sit)
Quote
Iíll propose a very stern 8B+ based on the difficulty when everything is executed perfectly though I feel at least 8C level strength is likely needed in the right hand to make this accessible and avoid some extreme frustration. That being said, some more vertical reach could possibly make the sequence a little less physical.

If you need to be climbing 8C to do it, then why is it not 8C? (The height thing doesn't count IMO, you'd never normally downgrade something just because it can be lanked.)

Getting strong fingers and then saying it's not too bad doesn't mean it's not too bad - it means you need strong fingers to do it!


Young man undergrading syndrome

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#197 Re: AidanWad
October 03, 2021, 11:14:37 am
Quote
Iíll propose a very stern 8B+ based on the difficulty when everything is executed perfectly though I feel at least 8C level strength is likely needed in the right hand to make this accessible and avoid some extreme frustration. That being said, some more vertical reach could possibly make the sequence a little less physical.

If you need to be climbing 8C to do it, then why is it not 8C?
:lol: Just re-reading his grade quote along with your reply, it is complete cobblers!!

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#198 Re: AidanWad
October 03, 2021, 12:32:51 pm
Allegedly "8B+" if you have 8C+ finger strength.

I've never understood this - is it a reasonable way of grading?

This is what he said about Tranquilas (KotT sit)
Quote
Iíll propose a very stern 8B+ based on the difficulty when everything is executed perfectly though I feel at least 8C level strength is likely needed in the right hand to make this accessible and avoid some extreme frustration. That being said, some more vertical reach could possibly make the sequence a little less physical.

If you need to be climbing 8C to do it, then why is it not 8C? (The height thing doesn't count IMO, you'd never normally downgrade something just because it can be lanked.)

Getting strong fingers and then saying it's not too bad doesn't mean it's not too bad - it means you need strong fingers to do it!

I guess what's being said is: If you have 8C+ strength fingers, and then re-climbed a bunch problems in the 8B+ to 8C+ range and ranked them in order of perceived difficulty, this one would go in with the 8B+ problems, as it "appears" easier than te 8Cs.

I kind of get it, because what can feel like a "barrier to entry" type single crimp move probably feels "not to bad" when you have the strength. You could argue this will all climbing movement, but I think the contrast is always more stark with single limit moves.

Doesn't matter anyway, as that's not really how grades work, is it? If 20 x 8B+ climbers can't do it, and only 8C+ ones can, it's 8C+....just a less satisfying one. (or Hard 8C)

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#199 Re: AidanWad
October 03, 2021, 12:56:44 pm
I guess what's being said is: If you have 8C+ strength fingers, and then re-climbed a bunch problems in the 8B+ to 8C+ range and ranked them in order of perceived difficulty, this one would go in with the 8B+ problems, as it "appears" easier than te 8Cs.

I kinda like this explanation, makes some sort of sense from this point of view. I still don't really like it as a method of giving a grade, bit wordy, but tbh all systems are imperfect, and will break down somewhere in all disciplines (especially at the upper end, as has been discussed relentlessly (anyone fancy an argument about Lexicon again?)). And as someone who will never be able to get off the ground on these boulders, regardless of which grade he gives it, I won't be losing any sleep over it!

As long as Aidan keeps using them strong fingers to climb hard stuff and throw big numbers around, that's good enough for me. And if it comes with confusing grade descriptions, then I guess it's just bonus entertainment.

 

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