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AidanWad (Read 32231 times)

ducko

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#125 Re: AidanWad
December 23, 2020, 06:07:51 pm
Totally makes sense about keeping grading in the area accurate within the scope of the area.
the point was highlighting that the grades are going to be out if the ĎGí is the reference (thatís a compliment if anything as it most likely means the sandbag express has rolled through the lakes and the blocs are even harder than stated!)

I guess the only way to really iron out the grades is for people to repeat and give honest opinions based on their personal experience, unfortunately there are very few on the planet who could really give accurate thoughts except for a handful of people strong in that style or perhaps the MellowCru.

The films amazing the Climbingís inspiring as hell, it was merely a comment to suggest that comparatively  across the globe the grades will be out (it only bothers me in the sense if I walk an hour to a crag to try problem X thatís Ďwithin my grade rangeí only to find its two or three grades out Iíd be disappointed as time is a precious commodity for most - Iím to fat and weak to try any of aidans blocs as an obvious point)
   
Again the lads a mutant and a nice guy the film is Fabulous, itís just a passing comment.

If you liked Doyle initial G film I recommend a viewing of his latest addition.

Iíll return myself (fresh from cleaning a handful of new blocs and a two hour board session) to sitting on my couch.

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#126 Re: AidanWad
December 23, 2020, 07:23:07 pm
I thought it was brilliant, and a very nice portrait of stunning Lakes boulders.

I did think that the title jarred slightly with the extremely British (and polar opposite of golden era Jerry) imposter syndrome vibe. I think it would've made more sense if they'd called it A Handful of What Might Be Really Quite Hard Boulders in England, or Nine FAs and some Numerals.

Or maybe just Aidanimal...

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#127 Re: AidanWad
December 23, 2020, 07:28:18 pm
Itís no surprise to me Aidan went on to great things. I was in the training room at Kendal years ago and Greshy was testing Aidan: ď oh Aidan these scores are through the roofĒ. Heís a very sincere bloke so when he said that my ears pricked up.

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#128 Re: AidanWad
December 23, 2020, 08:07:45 pm

Or maybe just Aidanimal...

Aid climbing

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#129 Re: AidanWad
December 23, 2020, 08:58:59 pm

I did think that the title jarred slightly with the extremely British (and polar opposite of golden era Jerry) imposter syndrome vibe. I think it would've made more sense if they'd called it A Handful of What Might Be Really Quite Hard Boulders in England, or Nine FAs and some Numerals.

Or maybe just Aidanimal...

I thought that was a reference to the quality of climbing rather than just Aidan himself, the bit where he was talking about there being no need to travel because there were things as good as Colorado etc.

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#130 Re: AidanWad
December 23, 2020, 09:12:33 pm
It was the way it was suffixed by his name, rather than: The Jolly Nice Lake District...

He obviously is though, so itís quite apposite.

I would like to see a prequel called Worldclass: The Legend of Jerry Moffatt

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#131 Re: AidanWad
December 23, 2020, 09:36:43 pm
Really enjoyed that, very inspiring.

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#132 Re: AidanWad
December 24, 2020, 09:27:29 am
If ever someone that good starts operating in North Wales they will be spoilt for choice for hard projects. I'll even write them a list!

We've got some useful lads (DC, Katz, Ducko, Luke Fletcher, Pete Robins etc) but nothing like Aidan's level, yet.

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#134 Re: AidanWad
December 24, 2020, 09:38:04 pm
Really enjoyed that, very inspiring.

Couldn't agree more. Excellent 👌

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#135 Re: AidanWad
December 25, 2020, 10:10:33 pm
Totally makes sense about keeping grading in the area accurate within the scope of the area.
the point was highlighting that the grades are going to be out if the ĎGí is the reference (thatís a compliment if anything as it most likely means the sandbag express has rolled through the lakes and the blocs are even harder than stated!)

I guess the only way to really iron out the grades is for people to repeat and give honest opinions based on their personal experience, unfortunately there are very few on the planet who could really give accurate thoughts except for a handful of people strong in that style or perhaps the MellowCru.

The films amazing the Climbingís inspiring as hell, it was merely a comment to suggest that comparatively  across the globe the grades will be out (it only bothers me in the sense if I walk an hour to a crag to try problem X thatís Ďwithin my grade rangeí only to find its two or three grades out Iíd be disappointed as time is a precious commodity for most - Iím to fat and weak to try any of aidans blocs as an obvious point)
   
Again the lads a mutant and a nice guy the film is Fabulous, itís just a passing comment.

If you liked Doyle initial G film I recommend a viewing of his latest addition.

Iíll return myself (fresh from cleaning a handful of new blocs and a two hour board session) to sitting on my couch.

Maybe you should go to the lakes to try these blocs? Only then could you truly assess yourself and find a position within the hierarchy. After starting to read that world class post I realised there was no need... a chant was raised and floated gently through the evening air Ďthe king is dead, long live the king, the king is dead, long live the kingí and much bog roll was used.

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#136 Re: AidanWad
December 25, 2020, 11:51:23 pm
Yeah that was a cool film. As an outsider to both Lakes bouldering and proper hard bouldering full stop I enjoyed it a lot more than I expected. I agree with the comment (way) above about phone footage to the extent that itís great to see authentic uncut film of the actual ascents but in the case of the phone-in-shoe style clips earlier in the film, when youíre watching someone path a problem that you canít gauge the angle or the size of the holds of properly and donít have prior knowledge of it then it might as well be 6b+ as 8b+. I got a lot more idea of what I was really watching from the ascents where the camera was moving.

Biggest strength of the film I thought was that the talking heads were limited to climbers right in his peer group- I was expecting people like Randall or Gresham repeatedly foaming about the guyís talents in the mould of many of these ďisnít this kid good?Ē flicks but by restricting the job to people who were more reticent in that department it was way more watchable than I expected. Biggest weakness was that apart from the mention of Gaskins & grades the story is essentially told in the first ten minutes and the rest is just an aesthetic Lakes problems/ hard ascents pr0no with a really fucking hard one toward the end. Probably the best way to do it though- I certainly had more appetite for that than another ďKen Burns-style panning across childhood training photosĒ doc!

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#137 Re: AidanWad
December 26, 2020, 07:36:36 am
and the rest is just an aesthetic Lakes problems/ hard ascents pr0no with a really fucking hard one toward the end.

This is pretty much what I signed up for!

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#138 Re: AidanWad
December 26, 2020, 09:59:42 am
Yeah that was a cool film. As an outsider to both Lakes bouldering and proper hard bouldering full stop I enjoyed it a lot more than I expected. I agree with the comment (way) above about phone footage to the extent that itís great to see authentic uncut film of the actual ascents but in the case of the phone-in-shoe style clips earlier in the film, when youíre watching someone path a problem that you canít gauge the angle or the size of the holds of properly and donít have prior knowledge of it then it might as well be 6b+ as 8b+. I got a lot more idea of what I was really watching from the ascents where the camera was moving.

If only it including footage of Varian and Jack trying the problems and getting spat off, that would certainly add some difficulty perspective to them.

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#139 Re: AidanWad
December 26, 2020, 11:08:48 am
I would love to see/hear Jack and Dan commentating (together) on the Olympic climbing.

Please make it happen 🤞

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#140 Re: AidanWad
February 06, 2021, 05:13:08 pm
Another one that slipped under the radar. FA of 'Ebbing the Flow' at Biblins cave https://www.instagram.com/p/CK9TXiBD47v/

Not aware of a grade, but it was mooted as an ~8B project and given the amount of time James Squire has spent down there I imagine he's put some time in to it.

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#141 Re: AidanWad
February 06, 2021, 07:40:00 pm
Another one that slipped under the radar. FA of 'Ebbing the Flow' at Biblins cave https://www.instagram.com/p/CK9TXiBD47v/

Not aware of a grade, but it was mooted as an ~8B project and given the amount of time James Squire has spent down there I imagine he's put some time in to it.

It's another one that sits in the "hard as fuck" category and there's a reason it hadn't been done before.
Might be wrong but I seem to remember James suggesting it could be about 8B+ at one point a year or two ago.
Also interestingly I was always of the thought it'd be a sit start, was somewhat surprised with how he started it. Probably adds about 2 trickyish moves, but not all that good moves (I think...)

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#142 Re: AidanWad
February 07, 2021, 08:32:18 am
Looks like an onsight, or as though he's hardly practiced the moves anyway.

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#143 Re: AidanWad
July 29, 2021, 08:25:32 am
The gop had its pants pulled down last night, crazy performance inc a flash of paper birds..


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#144 Re: AidanWad
July 29, 2021, 08:58:11 am
Strong scenes!  :weakbench:

Makes the Gop look much better than when I last looked at it.

Nice to see Mr Stoopid too...

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#145 Re: AidanWad
July 29, 2021, 09:40:04 am
'kin hell. That was filmed over the last two years right..

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#146 Re: AidanWad
July 29, 2021, 09:45:01 pm
'kin hell. That was filmed over the last two years right..

It was just the same problem filmed form 7 different angles, no?

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#147 Re: AidanWad
July 30, 2021, 08:54:48 am
Jesus. Fucking. Christ.
I cannot help but quote Pantera: another level of confidence and power.

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#148 Re: AidanWad
August 02, 2021, 04:48:52 pm
Jesus. Fucking. Christ.
I cannot help but quote Pantera: another level of confidence and power.
Iíve never seen anyone that strong at board style problems, very strong indeed

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#149 Re: AidanWad
August 02, 2021, 04:59:15 pm
Jesus. Fucking. Christ.
I cannot help but quote Pantera: another level of confidence and power.
Iíve never seen anyone that strong at board style problems, very strong indeed

I often find vids of really strong climbers leave me a bit flat - I think it's because what the climbers are doing seems so far beyond what will ever be possible for me - but this has got me well psyched!

 

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