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Piranha Traverse, Rubicon (Read 1985 times)

tomtom

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Piranha Traverse, Rubicon
September 02, 2020, 05:12:23 pm
Me and Dolly were looking at this - and after a bit of head scratching and trying a few things were left -- er WTF?

R-L from Millers tale starts - does it go high (just over 2m up - via pockets to blank section) or low (pockets/holds about 1m up). Either way felt desparate or just horrible/sharp.

Cheers TT

205Chris

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#1 Re: Piranha Traverse, Rubicon
September 02, 2020, 06:45:09 pm
desparate or just horrible/sharp.

Surely this is just the dictionary definition of Peak Limestone?

nai

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#2 Re: Piranha Traverse, Rubicon
September 02, 2020, 07:10:00 pm
that'd have to be and/or

SamT

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#3 Re: Piranha Traverse, Rubicon
September 03, 2020, 08:54:08 am
Not sure if this will be of any help, but I remember doing this back in the early 90's and its written up as 'monos traverse' in my diary. Started on the easy ledges by too old and traversed right into millers tale.  Pre mats so I doubt I was very high off the deck and I just recall lots of monos, i.e those drilled holes in the wall with some tough moves to get round into millers. 

Undoubtedly a completely different set of holds exist these days though.

spidermonkey09

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#4 Re: Piranha Traverse, Rubicon
September 03, 2020, 09:15:46 am

just horrible/sharp.


Surely the clue was in the name?!

tomtom

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#5 Re: Piranha Traverse, Rubicon
September 03, 2020, 09:54:47 am
It has a very strong whiff of sandbag.

Never thought about the name!! 🤦‍♂️

Dolly

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#6 Re: Piranha Traverse, Rubicon
September 03, 2020, 05:54:18 pm
The name is just cos it finishes at the start of the route Piranha :)

highrepute

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#7 Re: Piranha Traverse, Rubicon
September 03, 2020, 10:34:57 pm
I've done this. can't quite remember if I started at miller's tale or few feet right, which I guess might make it easier. Stayed very low for a few moves on pockets then followed a rising line up to the finish of piranha. Thought it were about right at 7a. Easier than bigger tail.

DAVETHOMAS90

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#8 Re: Piranha Traverse, Rubicon
September 05, 2020, 09:25:07 pm
Sign off the times, this feeling hard!

I remember it feeling pretty steady - if tricky in places - fare, back in the eighties.

Had a look on a hot day (see what I did there  ;). ) recently, and was shocked by how hard it felt, and polished!

Climbing R-L from Miller's, you sort of "gaston" into some of the pockets. Where it gets thinner, you cross over with your R to a small edge, then into two very small pockets with your pinkies.

All very low down; difficulty trusting your feet on polished holds makes it much harder transferring weight.

Would be good to see it getting more traffic/regular weeding!

Dave.

 

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