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Chalk beta... (Read 15057 times)

wasbeen

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#75 Re: Chalk beta...
August 30, 2020, 10:27:10 am
In some ways, I am wary about being too hard on Friction Labs even if they are selling a placebo.
If you believe that it works it will probably work. Even if you don't believe it will work it will probably still work (a placebo can still work even if you know they are a placebo).


A placebo is ingested. How is an external condition - the coefficient of friction- altered purely by the power of the mind?

I think it would be more that it affects your state of mind e.g.:

https://youtu.be/R-7a78cNIoM?t=176

mrjonathanr

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#76 Re: Chalk beta...
August 30, 2020, 10:38:57 am
I doubt my state of mind alters the friction between skin and rock, no matter how much I may like it to.

cheque

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#77 Re: Chalk beta...
August 30, 2020, 01:20:55 pm
Some people talk about microwaving it to make it drier, but never tried this myself.

I’m not a scientist but my experiments with leftover pizza would suggest that microwaving doesn’t remove moisture at all.

Bradders

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#78 Re: Chalk beta...
August 30, 2020, 04:20:01 pm
In some ways, I am wary about being too hard on Friction Labs even if they are selling a placebo.
If you believe that it works it will probably work. Even if you don't believe it will work it will probably still work (a placebo can still work even if you know they are a placebo).


A placebo is ingested. How is an external condition - the coefficient of friction- altered purely by the power of the mind?

Well no, a placebo is defined as anything which is prescribed for a psychological benefit, but with no physiological effect. It doesn't have to be something that's ingested.

tomtom

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#79 Re: Chalk beta...
August 30, 2020, 04:57:48 pm
Some people talk about microwaving it to make it drier, but never tried this myself.

I’m not a scientist but my experiments with leftover pizza would suggest that microwaving doesn’t remove moisture at all.

Try taking the pizza out of the chalk before microwaving it? 😀

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#80 Re: Chalk beta...
August 30, 2020, 10:28:34 pm
Some people talk about microwaving it to make it drier, but never tried this myself.

I’m not a scientist but my experiments with leftover pizza would suggest that microwaving doesn’t remove moisture at all.

Try taking the pizza out of the chalk before microwaving it? 😀

 :lol:

SA Chris

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#81 Re: Chalk beta...
August 31, 2020, 08:44:03 am
Interesting but strange test. How can it be a negative that the chalk dries out the skin? That is exactly the point of applying chalk to the hands in sports!

It also doesn't say how long each test went on for, to see long term damage from the "drying agents"

Quote
“It goes on so nice; it’s like butter,”

Surely chalk like butter can't be a good thing??

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#82 Re: Chalk beta...
September 01, 2020, 12:51:48 pm
So, I also found Beta chalk blocks in stock with NeedleSports. I placed an order and received today. Opened the parcel to find lots of... 8C+ chalk blocks... I wonder what's happening there then, suspiciously two places have replaced Beta with 8C+ now. Unless staff at Needle Sports read this thread and want to troll me :-(

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#83 Re: Chalk beta...
September 01, 2020, 01:02:08 pm
I'm going to disrupt the market by buying the chalk and rebranding it as 9a, along with some psuedowaffle and a chalk bag with silver threads woven into that are boosted by UV energy every time you dip your hand into it and create instant recovery.

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#84 Re: Chalk beta...
September 01, 2020, 01:08:08 pm
I'm going to disrupt the market by buying the chalk and rebranding it as 9a, along with some psuedowaffle and a chalk bag with silver threads woven into that are boosted by UV energy every time you dip your hand into it and create instant recovery.

Just tell me Aidan Roberts has farted on it or something. That'll sell it.

cheque

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#85 Re: Chalk beta...
September 01, 2020, 01:25:59 pm
Get some CBD oil in there too.

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#86 Re: Chalk beta...
September 01, 2020, 01:47:23 pm
So, I also found Beta chalk blocks in stock with NeedleSports. I placed an order and received today. Opened the parcel to find lots of... 8C+ chalk blocks... I wonder what's happening there then, suspiciously two places have replaced Beta with 8C+ now. Unless staff at Needle Sports read this thread and want to troll me :-(
The Beta tape I recently ordered arrived in packaging branded 8C+, so maybe Beta are re-branding? No announcement of a rebrand on their website though which is a bit odd?

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#87 Re: Chalk beta...
September 01, 2020, 01:53:13 pm
So, I also found Beta chalk blocks in stock with NeedleSports. I placed an order and received today. Opened the parcel to find lots of... 8C+ chalk blocks... I wonder what's happening there then, suspiciously two places have replaced Beta with 8C+ now. Unless staff at Needle Sports read this thread and want to troll me :-(
The Beta tape I recently ordered arrived in packaging branded 8C+, so maybe Beta are re-branding? No announcement of a rebrand on their website though which is a bit odd?

NeedleSports have said it's a rebrand from Beta. It's a bit strange, because it's completely different chalk. Was the tape any different? Seems odd V12 didn't mention it.

cheque

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#89 Re: Chalk beta...
September 01, 2020, 03:10:56 pm
”Same amazing chalk and tape, just new packaging!”

Ah well, there we go. Mystery solved.

Except it's not the same chalk. Off to find a new brand then. Where's that 9a pseudowaffle chalk I've been hearing about?

SA Chris

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#90 Re: Chalk beta...
September 01, 2020, 03:17:45 pm
Just discussion sponsorship deal with Aidan Roberts, provided he is involved in the final stages of the manufacturing process.

Watch this space.

Duncan campbell

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#91 Re: Chalk beta...
April 04, 2023, 10:29:33 am
So 8c+ (the artist formerly known as beta) chalk is also not available in the uk now (according to Rich in V12).

Beta and then 8c+ were my go-to and now I feel a bit lost. I just bought a block of metolius but wasn’t blown away by it. Now there are about a million chalk brands out there plus the fact my skin totally went to shit on a recent trip made me wonder if there’s something better out there?

I have pretty wet tips and often get massive flappers from big sharp holds… not sure if that’s because the rest of my fingers get too dry?

Wary of using fricky labs as don’t want to get addicted to expensive chalk…

Any suggestions on a decent chalk that comes in a non-plastic wrapper? Always nice to minimise plastic use :ang:

T_B

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#92 Re: Chalk beta...
April 04, 2023, 10:38:58 am
I prefer the Moon chalk. Gone back to it from FL even tho I can get the latter cheap. I have v sweaty tips and do use the FL secret stuff.

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#93 Re: Chalk beta...
April 04, 2023, 10:57:55 am
So 8c+ (the artist formerly known as beta) chalk is also not available in the uk now (according to Rich in V12).

Beta and then 8c+ were my go-to and now I feel a bit lost. I just bought a block of metolius but wasn’t blown away by it. Now there are about a million chalk brands out there plus the fact my skin totally went to shit on a recent trip made me wonder if there’s something better out there?

I have pretty wet tips and often get massive flappers from big sharp holds… not sure if that’s because the rest of my fingers get too dry?

Wary of using fricky labs as don’t want to get addicted to expensive chalk…

Any suggestions on a decent chalk that comes in a non-plastic wrapper? Always nice to minimise plastic use :ang:

I heard gecko is quite good from a few people and a bit cheaper than friction labs

Bradders

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#94 Re: Chalk beta...
April 04, 2023, 11:25:27 am
I've been using Rock Technologies chalk and find it just as good as Friction Labs.

https://www.gooutdoors.co.uk/16543999/rock-technologi-loose-chalk-16543999

spidermonkey09

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#95 Re: Chalk beta...
April 04, 2023, 12:02:28 pm
 I thought Gecko was abysmal. Moon for me, also comes in a paper bag.

JamieG

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#96 Re: Chalk beta...
April 04, 2023, 12:22:52 pm
I've been using Rock Technologies chalk and find it just as good as Friction Labs.

https://www.gooutdoors.co.uk/16543999/rock-technologi-loose-chalk-16543999

+1 and as a nice bonus it's made in Greenfield in the Chew valley. So you are supporting a small local business (depending on you location).

It's very fine chalk, so if you like a chunkier chalk it might not be for you, but I think it works well.

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#97 Re: Chalk beta...
April 04, 2023, 12:38:24 pm
Another vote for how shit Gekco Grip is - what I bought was the consistency of flour. I also find the spelling (presumably focus-grouped) and mischaracterisation of how geckos stick to things (actually a lot more interesting than physical 'gripping') appalling. But maybe I just need to get a (gekco) grip.

Moon Dust is still the best balance between quality and price in my opinion.

Duncan campbell

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#98 Re: Chalk beta...
April 04, 2023, 12:53:26 pm
Nice thanks all! Climbing Technologies looks to fit the bill? Will also try out Moon.

Both local(ish) to me in Sheffield. Can get rock technologies in a massive tub so if it’s good I’ll probably go for that, might see if I can return the tub to them too. Unless it’s useful 🧐

I’ll try and remember to report back for any lurkers who are interested…

sdm

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#99 Re: Chalk beta...
April 04, 2023, 01:07:18 pm
Moon tends to be the favourite for people with tough, dry skin.

If you've got quite damp tips, it might not be for you.

 

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