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Aidan Roberts - Outliers 8C FA - Trowbarrow (Read 6476 times)

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Aidan Roberts - Outliers 8C FA - Trowbarrow
August 26, 2020, 11:12:02 pm
https://www.instagram.com/p/CEXEwFWjRui/

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Outliers ~ 8C ~ FA

Throwing big numbers about is scary business.

It’s so rare that I exceed my own expectations of what is possible for me but with plenty of psyche and motivation from @jackpalmieri on a cracking day out I was able to find myself ontop of this shouldery, finger intensive line.

I’d had 2 sessions (admittedly very warm) not feeling close to either of the first 2 moves and at my limit on the rest of the crux sequence so it felt a little beyond me with my current levels of strength but pleasantly surprised to find it wasn’t.

Upon finishing this, I scampered Isla De Encanta~ 8B first try of the day. Having had a real battle to get up Outliers then finding Isla so comfortable it seemed as though there was more than a grade disparity between the 2 and with Isla being solid at the grade it seemed the logical progression for Outliers to take 8C.

I’d be intrigued to see how others find the climb, it’ll be up on a video of my summer of climbing currently in the making.

Finished of the day with a victory lap on Shallow Grove to conclude one of my better days :) Keen for more of these!

No word how it compares to Il Pirata tho....




Credit to r-man who posted it on Lancs Rock Revival FB group.

Dexter

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Wow looks strong  :strongbench:
Any idea where this line goes?

M1V0

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Wow looks strong  :strongbench:
Any idea where this line goes?

I suspect it's the line on the back that uses the chipped(?) sidepull in the blank face. Couple of metres to the left of Texas, there's a series of obvious crimps into the good undercuts beneath the overlap and then a single sidepull/gaston in the centre of the face.

Dexter

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Thanks, I just happen to be going there tomorrow and will try texas so maybe I'll see just how bad the holds look





or bag the second ascent

Bradders

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I'm guessing that'll be it. The upper headwall type part of that face is super blank, so I assume it's a pretty hefty dyno to the top even if it uses that sidepull.

On the subject of hefty dynos, someone was telling me they'd seen Aidan do Grand Opera in 2 moves, essentially by jumping from the big flake hold in the middle all the way to the top. I can't even comprehend that kind of move!

Worth saying as well for the lower bit that although there are holds none of them are good until you get into the undercut section. Lower stuff are all pretty heinous slopey crimps. Looks like you have to get pretty bunched and weird to make that work.

The line using the chipped hold is actually described in the old Lakes Bloc PDF guide as an 8A called Atrocity Exhibition. I would think that's likely to be another bit of Gaskins BS though, unless anyone knows different?

teestub

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We need Aidan’s agent Jack Pal to come and clear it all up for us 😄

M1V0

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The line using the chipped hold is actually described in the old Lakes Bloc PDF guide as an 8A called Atrocity Exhibition. I would think that's likely to be another bit of Gaskins BS though, unless anyone knows different?

Even if Atrocity Exhibition has been done, I presume it would have been a stand stand off the undercuts if it were to get the lowly grade of 8A, whereas surely Aiden's wizardry takes the full line. I think in Greg's tome, he's given AE an 8? grade and refers to it as a mystery, I would check but the guide is in a different room.

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The line using the chipped hold is actually described in the old Lakes Bloc PDF guide as an 8A called Atrocity Exhibition. I would think that's likely to be another bit of Gaskins BS though, unless anyone knows different?

Even if Atrocity Exhibition has been done, I presume it would have been a stand stand off the undercuts if it were to get the lowly grade of 8A, whereas surely Aiden's wizardry takes the full line. I think in Greg's tome, he's given AE an 8? grade and refers to it as a mystery, I would check but the guide is in a different room.

I've got you covered. Here's how it's written up in the guide:

Quote
Atrocity Exhibition 8?
Something of a historical oddity, the exact line of the original problem isn't entirely clear. Allegedly undercuts are used to gain the chipped sidepull/gaston before heading straight to the top.

Like I say, sounds like BS to me. Even if it was "just" a stand start.

yetix

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.

On the subject of hefty dynos, someone was telling me they'd seen Aidan do Grand Opera in 2 moves, essentially by jumping from the big flake hold in the middle all the way to the top. I can't even comprehend that kind of move!

I heard he does the sit in something silly like 6 moves (could be wrong there!)

rosmat

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Good play on words name....

AMorris

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Amazing work. By the looks of it, it seems like it is the line going up the undercut wall left of TH, which G alluded to having tried but never really feeling like he would do it in the Shark interview. Is this correct? Either way, superb ascent. Il Pirata next?  ;) :worms:

Nibile

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That move is almost an exact mirror replica of the original  sequence of the Surplomb de la Vallee de la Mee!

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Some of these comments remind me of that ‘William Wallace is 7ft tall’ scene from Braveheart.  :lol:

Grand in two moves would be pretty ridiculous eh! Chinese whispers for sure.

Outliers is a sit on the shady side of the shelterstone, 3 or 4 very hard moves to gain the undercuts at the back of the hanging mini roof then exit stage left. Yeah In theory Atrocity exhibition is somewhere above this, but I don’t need to go out on a limb to say that bit of wall is impossible at 8A, and improbable full stop, a pity that all roads lead back to G!

 

SA Chris

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Good play on words name....

Agree, genius.

AMorris

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Cheers for the clarification Jack. Huge congrats to Aiden, looking forward to seeing the upcoming footage.

Bradders

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Some of these comments remind me of that ‘William Wallace is 7ft tall’ scene from Braveheart.  :lol:

Does Aidan shoot lightening bolts from his arse? Is that how he gets up stuff?  :lol:

Thanks for the clarification. Especially that it doesn't even go through "Atrocity Exhibition" (which should surely now be scratched from the history books). Sounds in fact as though it is the non-eliminate version of AE, going left!

Any idea how hard it's likely to be from the stand Jack?

Can't wait to see footage.

Moo

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Has anyone put any time into atrocity exhibition? I remember looking at it years ago but can’t recall much about it.

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Does Aidan shoot lightening bolts from his arse? Is that how he gets up stuff?  :lol:

Thanks for the clarification. Especially that it doesn't even go through "Atrocity Exhibition" (which should surely now be scratched from the history books). Sounds in fact as though it is the non-eliminate version of AE, going left!

Any idea how hard it's likely to be from the stand Jack?

Can't wait to see footage.

Haha I think he must do.

Stand wise I don’t really think there would be one. Be such an arbitrary start position on this one. Not like Texas where even if the sit had been done first, it would still make sense to have a stand at the bottom of the hanging ramp feature.

Pity as I’m always keen for more stuff to do locally.

CJD

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Great to see the numbers from Aidan, and also he's taking bouldering back to where it should be = basic power.

Atrocity Exhibition was repeated by Jamie Cassidy a long time ago.  It was always a bit of a grey area, as it did have rules I seem to remember (if it is the same line being referred to here).

Also - after a long time away, its great to see the arm chair critics are still lording it on this site - get out of your armchairs, train a bit, and earn yourselves your opinions.

Again - well done Aiden - your lines look incredible, and great fun!

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Great to see the numbers from Aidan, and also he's taking bouldering back to where it should be = basic power.

Atrocity Exhibition was repeated by Jamie Cassidy a long time ago.  It was always a bit of a grey area, as it did have rules I seem to remember (if it is the same line being referred to here).

Also - after a long time away, its great to see the arm chair critics are still lording it on this site - get out of your armchairs, train a bit, and earn yourselves your opinions.

Again - well done Aiden - your lines look incredible, and great fun!

I'm not an armchair critic but I'd like access to this training plan that'll get me pulling on 8C boulders please.

 

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