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Power Club 543 3rd - 9th August 2020 (Read 6082 times)

tomtom

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Power Club 543 3rd - 9th August 2020
August 09, 2020, 08:43:23 pm
Week 20 of lockdown training/climbing

Mon: Rest

Tue: Board day in the afternoon. Rubbish - not spring or strength - everything a real fight. Core felt spent...

Wed: 1 arm day. Decided to do some 1 arm pull ups rather than lock offs for a change. Worked from -18 to -12kg (but not my right arm - thats about 1-2kg worse). Felt alright afterwards, so had a short and alright board session.

Thurs: Temps warming up - went to Wilton 1 in the eve. First went to W4 but the Nemesis wall was gopping and it was full of flying ants. Got going about 7pm and managed to get a good 60-90 min in before the midges got into full swing and I left. Had a decent play on Fingertoe (7C) which felt hard but not impossible. Had fun working out "Children of Arachne F7A" next door - thats had one log on UKC - but really deserves more - good fingery wall climbing with a cool very sharp ear hold. Always nice to figure out a tricky problem in a session.

Fri: Lost feeling in one tip after the sharp ear hold! (it came back eventually) 1 arm pull up day again. Worked from -18 to -12kg as per tuesday - then feeling good moved to -10 and then -8 on the left (but not on the right). -10 and -8 were really really hard though and I think form went well out of the window. New PB's though - but don't mean too much as I've not really done enough of them over the years to make too much of a comparison (previous from 3-4 years back was -14 I think - and I may well be lighter now as well)

Sat: rest. Spent a few hours trying to stop a leaky shower tray..

Sun: Up at 6 to try and beat the weather. Got to Rubicon for 7:30 (43 min from home! 2 PB's in a week :D). After 5 min my psyche evaporated as it was clear I was not climbing well. No snap or power. Still, warmed up and had a really shit few attempts at Kudos. Couldnt even catch the RH hold - rubbish. Ho hum. Over to the Press - where after a bit of persistence made what felt like some minor progress. Some micro adjustments of how I was splaying my left leg onto the wall that helped, and remembering to pull right in close to the rock (obvious stuff but hey..). Had a couple of attempts where I felt really solid and moving towards reaching for the crimp rather than slapping. Left at 9 as the first few climbers arrived.

Still had some beans in me in the afternoon so did some more 1 arm work. Good - consolidated from earlier in the weak. Reps at -10kg.

Will Hunt

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#1 Re: Power Club 543 3rd - 9th August 2020
August 09, 2020, 09:26:28 pm
Th - Kilnsey. Warmed up by wobbling up Directissima then fixed the hand/foothold on Subculture under Nez's kind tutelage.
2nd session. Tried a sequence on the top bit but didn't get anything that felt nice. A couple of goes attempting to link the start, the best of which involved getting the sequence wrong but setting up for the move to the undercut before falling off which is a best effort.

Su - Kilnsey. Subculture. Put the clips in and got the Moors beta for the top which works well. Came down and rested then went up through all the hard climbing but somehow ballsed up the final move into the rest after the hardest climbing. Didn't hold the hold and fell off. V quick shake then pulled back up the rope and climbed into the rest, shook a couple of times, then executed the Slab Culture finish which was a confidence boost.
Next go did the hard bit and got into the rest but elbows were feeling weird. Shook in the rest for a bit but I really hate the holds that you're "resting" on. Pulled out right and got about halfway through the sequence before falling at the move to the good slot. Pulled back on a finished.

The aim of the third session was to see how it felt in decent conditions and to make a judgement on whether it was worth sticking with. Definitely worth a bit more time.

The weird elbows thing, I don't know if anyone else gets this? Sometimes when feeling tired towards the end of a climbing day (normally a last climb of the day sort of feeling), I'll get a weird 'tightness' in my elbows. I can feel them trying to close and it seems to require some force to push my arms straight and get my elbows locked out. Also happened on my fourth tie-on of the day last Saturday which makes me think it's something related to cramp or nutrition/recovery related?
« Last Edit: August 09, 2020, 09:45:17 pm by Will Hunt »

205Chris

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#2 Re: Power Club 543 3rd - 9th August 2020
August 09, 2020, 09:37:51 pm
Sun: Up at 6 to try and beat the weather. Got to Rubicon for 7:30. Left at 9 as the first few climbers arrived.

 :wave:

tomtom

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#3 Re: Power Club 543 3rd - 9th August 2020
August 09, 2020, 10:10:07 pm
Sun: Up at 6 to try and beat the weather. Got to Rubicon for 7:30. Left at 9 as the first few climbers arrived.

 :wave:

Hi Chris - was that you I spoke to briefly?

Sorry I didn’t recognise you - Was in a bit of a bustle to get home (and was I a bit of a fug).. Hope you had a decent session!

205Chris

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#4 Re: Power Club 543 3rd - 9th August 2020
August 10, 2020, 06:49:37 am
Sun: Up at 6 to try and beat the weather. Got to Rubicon for 7:30. Left at 9 as the first few climbers arrived.

 :wave:

Hi Chris - was that you I spoke to briefly?

Sorry I didn’t recognise you - Was in a bit of a bustle to get home (and was I a bit of a fug).. Hope you had a decent session!

It was. No worries. I was thinking I'd got up early to get there pre 9am!

spidermonkey09

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#5 Re: Power Club 543 3rd - 9th August 2020
August 10, 2020, 08:45:57 am

The weird elbows thing, I don't know if anyone else gets this? Sometimes when feeling tired towards the end of a climbing day (normally a last climb of the day sort of feeling), I'll get a weird 'tightness' in my elbows. I can feel them trying to close and it seems to require some force to push my arms straight and get my elbows locked out. Also happened on my fourth tie-on of the day last Saturday which makes me think it's something related to cramp or nutrition/recovery related?

Elbows or biceps? Presumably the latter if you can feel your arm closing up, ie your bicep contracting? If so I get bicep cramp at the end of the day sometimes, normally a sign that I'm fucked. If you don't stretch them out thats worth doing.

( be careful you don't hyperextend your elbows, especially getting out of the stretch at the end. I tend to hold it for a minute or so).

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#6 Re: Power Club 543 3rd - 9th August 2020
August 10, 2020, 08:57:04 am
11.4-6 Average 159.8 (down 0.6lbs)

M.

T. Up to Malham with GVG. Rainy, cloudy, cold/cool. Great connies for time of year. Cons x 3 warm up. Concentrated on the middle section and managed to do throw to traverse (about 10 moves) five times. Throw move really clicked into place in middle of session and fingers felt stronger on the undercut. Weaker on Gaston moves on traverse though.

W.

T.

F. Kendal Wall for an assessment day with John Kettle. Various tests. Confirmed that I’ve transformed into a boulderer. Power, core and strength ok - any kind of endurance / capacity woeful. Finger strength now in normal range for a 7c+/8a climber. Whilst I’ve made big improvements with upper back / thoracic mobility with regular stretching this is still a limiter so more work to be done. Climb front on too much and footwork is sloppy.

S.


S. No takers for Malham  :'( . Systems board trying out John’s recommended interval structure - 30secs on, 30 secs off.
Eve. Walk up Peter Dale with family and dogs

Going to keep heading up to Malham when conditions are ok and following discussion with John will otherwise concentrate on getting my endurance and power endurance up probably mainly on the board so more country walks to get my outdoor fix. Hopefully endurance will bounce back quickly given that it used to be my strong point. Weight getting back to pre lockdown level.

Nutty

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#7 Re: Power Club 543 3rd - 9th August 2020
August 10, 2020, 09:14:15 am
Mon: Run ~ 8.5km.

Tues: Ancap-style session on the board. Not a great session, only completed 2 out of 8 attempts. Stretching & 35 pullups.

Wed: Rest

Thurs: Board session. 10 warmup problems then trying harder problems. Felt better today. Stretching & 25 pullups.

Fri-Sat: Rest.

Sun: Morning wander with the family. Fingerboarding in the evening: one-arm hangs @ 80% bodyweight, 15mm edge. Felt better than the last time I tried this, could go beyond 10 secs with my right, very variable with my left (think it took longer to warm-up into it?).

Got a reasonable amount in. Heavy at the moment, weight's been creeping up since lockdown began - I used to get 1 hour walking in a day during my commutes so I think I need to do something to replace that missing activity - probably try getting more more runs in (or add one long slow run a week).

mr chaz

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#8 Re: Power Club 543 3rd - 9th August 2020
August 10, 2020, 09:34:05 am
Goals: i) Maintain finger strength  ii) Get out and enjoy some climbing

M.
T.
W.
T. Fingerboard - 1arm max hangs, quite a decent performance. Decided to increase the assistance a couple of kg to get a better quality hang. Going to carry on this way for a while.
F.
S. Fingerboard - repeaters. Hot and sweaty as board was in the sun but somehow felt good.
S.

Failing at goal ii at the moment, but I'm having to use weekends to get my MSc thesis written. Deadline is approaching so I'll be back out there soon enough.

Finger strength is feeling good but seriously starting to feel like I'm lacking power now, having not used a woody or campus board in ages. I'd like to carry on training at home but I'll need to boost my setup somehow from a slightly wobbly fingerboard.

spidermonkey09

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#9 Re: Power Club 543 3rd - 9th August 2020
August 10, 2020, 09:35:15 am
M - rest.

T - back on the fingerboard for some max hangs. Distinctly average but not surprising. 2 sets at -5kg, 2 at -6.25kg and the final one at -7.5kg. Hopefully won't take too long to get back down to -5kg consistently. Then did some stability hangs on the big slot which used to be piss and felt completely nails; things are slipping! Some TRX and pressups to finish.

W - horrific DOMS in my shoulders. Put it down to not being used to the fingerboard and first pressups in about a month.

T - DOMS better but still there. Did some repeaters in the evening which seemed to help. Dialled it right back for the Anderson hangs in anticipation of failure and still failed, but not by much! Way too hot to hang the slopers so just did battery edge, bottom outside and 3FD on the battery edge, all with a base weight of 2.5kg. Not too bad but failed on last set on the bottom outside and final hang on 3FD. Something to work with. Keen to stick with them as they strike me as great Malham training. 

F - rest. Drove up to Yorkshire in the evening.

S - Stoney Bank in the morning before the sun hit and then wandered down the river to Gordale. Absolutely heaving with people even by Gordale standards which was a bit of a shock. Eventually fought my way down the waterfall and tried Cave Route Left despite the top being wet. Got a pretty good sequence on it and got through the crux last go of the day but couldn't have done it due to the crack being gopping. I fell off just before anyway. Linked into the top slab of Supercool to strip it; great to be up there again, lots of memories.

S - Couldn't really be arsed to drive anywhere so decided to go to Malham despite the sun and lack of wind. It was far from mint but OK for working out sequences. Had a few goes up Baboo and sorted the crux out, should be there or thereabouts next time if the conditions are halfway decent. Keen to get the top dialled as Straightened and ABH share that section. Catwalk was really quiet which was nice.

Good week despite the DOMS. Skin seems to have survived the weekend so will train as normal this week and hopefully get out again at the weekend. Enjoyed the weekend raid to Yorkshire.

gollum

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#10 Re: Power Club 543 3rd - 9th August 2020
August 10, 2020, 09:44:14 am
Another long training record, but fundamentally the same as last week was and the same as next week will be. I’d stop reading now, if I were you.

M - Back to it. 10x5@60 deadlifts to start and fire up the body and core. Move on to main session which is international chest day. Bench press, inclined and declined press for the heavier work. Rep range of 3-5 today and about 80% of my max weights. Chest feels pretty solid, although some of stabilising muscles aren’t quite working hard enough yet. Do some dumbbell work at all three angles to help this. 8/12 reps and concentrating on keeping chest, shoulders, arms and core really tight. Finish chest with some ring flys.
Nip up to Caley Roadside. Quickly up New Jerusalem, which I really enjoyed, as had turned up with no real plan or expectations as to what I was going to try. Wander about for a bit doing easier stuff but then the sun comes out and it gets really close, so wander off home, although do NJ again as I’m passing it, just for the fun.
Go to the gym with Mrs B when she finishes work, undecided about what to do, so just do a bit of walking and some core work.

T -  Deadlift sppedwork today. 8x3@85k with 3 minutes rest. Core in the rests again, doing planks and hollow body as that seemed to work well last week. Deadlifts seem to go well and feel like there is a bit more speed and power than last week.
Tricep work. 5 sets of 10 close grip press ups, increasing the weight each time, followed by 5 sets of 5 with pauses, reducing the weight each time. By the time I get to the lightest weights, the muscles are under tension for an absolute age. If that doesn’t develop growth, I really don’t know what will. Ez bar skull crushers and dumbbell single arm presses to finish off.
City Bloc for a training session. Single bench reps, start at 60k and add 5 each rep until I fail, with heaviest rep being 90k, which is definitely a weight I’m happy with halfway through my second week back in the gym after four months off. Bench set up is one of best I’ve ever seen. Bench is low enough to allow leg drive from my little legs and safety bars are solid and bar is just touching chest when it is on the safety.
On to some max hangs. On BM2k am solid on 33mm edge for a good 5 seconds but on 23 mm edge, can only hand a couple of seconds at this stage. A total of ten sets, 8 on the bigger edge.
Work on Kilter board at 60° which is good for upper body and core. Do quite a lot of volume. Finish off with some problems at 30° which are just much less brutal. Good sesh.

W - Head to the Pudsey Depot in the morning. Have a reasonable session doing all the black problems for volume and throwing in a handful of purples as well, for something a bit more taxing. Once again I get very hot and very sweaty during the session and putting my boots back on after a brew break is a grim situation. Pretty happy with how things are going.
In the evening go to the gym with Mrs B. Deadlifts are 90% for 10 singles. Working with shorter rest than last week, which feels good. Move on to do some light bent over rows to stretch my back out a bit. Finish doing lat pull downs on the machine, start at 35k for 10, then drop weight each set by 5k and do it again, all way down to 5k and then go back up the ladder again. That felt proper tough bu the end, but also a great exercise after the deadlifts as there was lots of movement.

T - Shoulder day in the gym. Start off with 5x5 hang cleans, trying to stay keep good form and control on every rep. Move on to seated shoulder press for 5x5 going up 2.5k every set. Finish at 25k, which before a whole host of injuries was my starting weight for the same routine. Some strict single arm presses to build some volume in the press. 3x8 real slowly.  Superset front raises and lateral raises, both with a 5 second pause at the top. Very light weights required. Face pulls and shrugs to complete the range of shoulder muscles. Finish off with a range of scapular exercises to help keep the little muscles working.
Lunchtime is a 10k steady but sweaty run on the treadmill and the 20x20 kettlebell swings, which I break into 4 blocks of 5 sets each;. Think this is a better way to do this rather than incorporating it with other lifting. Always gonna be tough though, but at least I don’t have to do any additional core work today.
Late afternoon, go to City Bloc for a training session. Start with some steady stuff on the campus board, but really too heavy to do anything other than the most basic stuff, but I am happy to be just building a base at the moment. Then on to max hangs for 5 seconds on 20mm Lattice rung with body weight plus 40k, which I do for 8 sets. Then again hang the 10mm for 5 with 20k, on the 8mm I am okay for 5 seconds with 10k added but 15k is a weak couple of seconds at best. Finish with some general weights as Kilterboard busy and can’t be bothered doing any actual working problems out. Do cable iron crosses with a hold and get to 36 on each side, a bit shakey in the press down but the hold is solid enough. A fairly short session, but an enjoyable one.

F - Paused reps for deadlifting. 6x5 reps at 75%. Safe to say, it’s a hot one and am sweating by set number two, lower weight to 60% and extend the length of the pause.
Some bicep work next. Superset seated curls and drag curls for 3x10. Move on to concentration curls for 5x3 with last set a drop set. Then 21s with the EZ bar, which gets my arms burning, particularly on the last set where I up the weight just slightly. Finish with 5x5 bench curls, concentrating on a slow eccentric phase.
Go up to Calf. Do some of the easier problems, seeing what difference downturned boots make on the little holds. Initially cooler than I expected, but soon warms up enough to become less than pleasant, so head home after maybe an hour or so. Just nice to get out.

S - Nothing except a walk around Scammonden with Mrs B. Lovely and chilled.

S - Almscliffe for a couple of hours in the morning. Go on the End Boulder below the wall and do a couple of the ups and get shut down by one with a really long reach, but plenty of scope to do other things on this was.
Gym in the afternoon. Deadlifts at 85% of 1RM every 30 seconds for 10 minutes. A tough challenge that definitely gets the blood flowing and gets tougher with every rep. Good mental fight required. 
Planks at home while watching Apocalypse Now.......the horror, the horror.

Another good week. Definitely getting a little bit lighter and a little bit stronger. Enjoying the balance between going outside and going inside at the moment too.

Coops_13

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#11 Re: Power Club 543 3rd - 9th August 2020
August 10, 2020, 03:00:17 pm
W: Climb Clinic Physio. Further assessment and exercises. Looking to incorporate some strength-based work including some fingerboard. One of the key exercises given are 5s on 5s off X5 reps hard pulls on a bar (3sets) and 2sets on a fingerboard. Potentially able to start easy trad-climbing. Going to play it by ear

F: Intensive wrist session. Trying hard on the 5 on 5 off pulls. Good to get the fingerboard up again. All exercises took 45 mins

Sun: Flatirons trad. Had planned to summit two if not three flatirons but progress was a lot slower than thought. Did Fandango 5.5 up the First Flatiron. My first trad in 6 years, my mate (who's also a boulderer)'s first trad ever… I led all six pitches to the summit. Huge run-outs left me quivering at the smeary rockover crux but actually not hard. Probably HS/VS 4a/4b... Top two pitches on the North Arete were amazing. Too knackered and out of water to do more after we'd abbed off. Car said 99F as we were driving home - I drank the 4L I had brought on the climb. No pain from wrist during climb but some soreness at end from the repeated palm down moves (due to us climbing a slab) but these positions are part of my physio so OK I think. I think vertical stuff may be better for the wrist but my head is definitely a long way from being in trad mode... Also, climbing c.300m of slab in Solutions in 35C weather was not entirely comfortable...


duncan

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#12 Re: Power Club 543 3rd - 9th August 2020
August 10, 2020, 05:04:15 pm
... climbing c.300m of slab in Solutions in 35C weather was not entirely comfortable...
   :o

Simon, that sounds like a decent session for mid August. I've been meaning to post something on the pointlessness/negative effects of "density hangs" for someone who doesn't suffer from significant tendon problems and has a multi-decade career of trad. climbing behind them but you wisely seem to have put them on the back burner.

M (and every day) - Walked 7-10km.  Shoulders: handstands, side planks, 160-120 degree lock-offs (for 20 seconds).
T - ~25 mins. run.  More pre-Font training for the lad at Fairlop Waters. Easy stuff to 5C to test the elbow.
W - Short run but nothing for the arms: elbow felt more sore as a result.
T - Met up with csl in the Wye Valley (he was en route to Pembroke). The weather forecast lied and it was drizzling intermittently to mid afternoon so the plan - Wintour’s for some therapeutic Easy TradTM - was out of the question. We settled for a damp Ban-Y-Gor.  I may have been here before with habrich in the late 90s but couldn’t remember any of it so I’m counting this as new crag number 3 of 5 (a goal for 2020). The dry stuff was steep and elbow unfriendly; the slabby stuff was wet. I eventually lead Morning Winpenny, a short, polished, and damp, no-star 5+. Living the dream!  csl sensibly made his excuses and headed for Pembroke. I then tried Wyndcliffe Quarry, refuge on many a wet day, where a friendly couple took pity on me. I lead a bunch of easy stuff and briefly tried a bouldery 6c before wiser internal counsels prevailed. Elbow felt better for some climbing.
F - 36C during the day but cooled down enough for Fairlop to be just about tolerable in the evening: problems to ~6A+.
S - Another scorcher. Drove to Hampshire, bought a 150 year old German ‘cello for £525 (sounds glorious and tentatively had it valued at £6-8000 - YYFY!), acquired a large chip on the car windscreen (NNFN!).  Shoulders as above.
S - Hot, hot, hot. Shoulders as above. Fingerboard: elbow rehab.: lots of 2-4 second hangs.

A bit gutted to miss out on what seems like has been a great weekend for climbing due to various Ridiculous Social Obligations. Elbow tweak is settling nicely with moderate activity (it’s only taken me 30 years to work this out!). Unfortunately the car can’t be fixed before Friday, so looking forward to another week in a hot and sweaty city. 

Plan: ramp up the fingerboarding this week and get on something harder again over the weekend. Keep the work and social obligation plates spinning.

mr chaz

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#13 Re: Power Club 543 3rd - 9th August 2020
August 10, 2020, 05:34:52 pm

S - Another scorcher. Drove to Hampshire, bought a 150 year old German ‘cello for £525 (sounds glorious and tentatively had it valued at £6-8000 - YYFY!), acquired a large chip on the car windscreen (NNFN!).

That YYFY vastly outweighs that NNFN!. Get in!

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#14 Re: Power Club 543 3rd - 9th August 2020
August 10, 2020, 06:35:25 pm
Weight 10st5-6lbs

M - Rest

T - Shoulder stability + core. First session on the Lattice rung I installed. One arm hangs x 5. I need 10kg (+ friction) assistance. I don't feel anywhere near holding the rung one-armed yet. I did however hold this rung one armed reasonably easily at a wall in London. My rung feels more slick and flexes on the bar setup so must be a bit harder. It was also 30 degrees outside! Weighted 2 arm hangs. Got up to BW + 30.5kg for 5 seconds. Not quite BW + 50% but that is the short term aim.

W - Neil Gresham endurance session on the Lattice rung with 12kg assistance - 4 sets. Painful levels of pump! Trail run - 27.45km with 1200m elevation gain. Extreme leg soreness all over. The pace wasn't too bad but I cut the run short and got home as quickly as possible. No enjoyable!

T - MTB up the local mountain. The ride itself is not that exciting (mostly forest road) but it is a good training exercise and the view at the top is amazing. I then get to ride 17km downhill with barely a pedal stroke. Felt strong all the way up with no muscle soreness that I felt running the day before.

F - Max. hangs. The same as Monday but this time I could hold the added 30.5kg for 6-7 seconds.

S - Easy run/hike starting at 2000m due to it being a very hot day followed by a swim in a mountain lake. 12km with 900m height gain.

S - Climbing at Bergstation in Zillertal. Very hot! Did a 7a and a 7a+ and then melted off a 7b onsight. I could barely see the holds because of the sun and my eyeballs were filling with sweat. I need a retro headband!

shark

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#15 Re: Power Club 543 3rd - 9th August 2020
August 10, 2020, 11:36:01 pm
Simon, that sounds like a decent session for mid August. I've been meaning to post something on the pointlessness/negative effects of "density hangs" for someone who doesn't suffer from significant tendon problems and has a multi-decade career of trad. climbing behind them but you wisely seem to have put them on the back burner.

That sounds so obvious when you put it like that  :slap:

Great score with the Cello  :greed:

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#16 Re: Power Club 543 3rd - 9th August 2020
August 11, 2020, 07:13:05 am
Out of interest what are density hangs?

Thanks Dave

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#17 Re: Power Club 543 3rd - 9th August 2020
August 11, 2020, 07:42:12 am
Out of interest what are density hangs?

Thanks Dave
They're described in the second workout description here: https://www.trainingbeta.com/the-simplest-finger-training-program/

Essentially 2-arm hangs for 20-40 seconds.

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#18 Re: Power Club 543 3rd - 9th August 2020
August 11, 2020, 08:12:04 am
Has anyone else ever tried density hangs and ever felt any negative effects? I tried them out a few months back (about 6-8 weeks of once or twice a week) to try and settle down some minor niggles as a bit of an experiment. Those niggles did settle down, although whether the hangs had anything to do with that is anyone's guess. But for some sessions and part of the season I also often felt like my forearms felt almost 'blocked'. Bit of a hard feeling to describe really, almost like getting powered out pretty instantly. Again, this could just all be in my head but since I stopped doing them I've felt like I'm getting back to normal a bit.

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#19 Re: Power Club 543 3rd - 9th August 2020
August 11, 2020, 09:18:56 am
Goals:
- Stick to regular training: not doing much as trying to stay fresh for when I can get outside.
- Do as much climbing outside in July/August as physically possible: a good week, 1 rest day.

Monday - Went to Harrison's for an hours bouldering - ticked various thing on the North Boulder up to 6B, tried a 6B on the main crag that I couldn't do - I find southern sandstone very hard, and usually come home depressed.

Tuesday  - Dovedale, great to see/climb with an old friend again. We went to Reynards Arch, I did the 6b+ a few times, did the 7a second go, tried to flash the 7a+ and put in a good effort but fell from the thin last move. Also did the fairly crap 6b on the right. A good day out!

Thursday - Wye Valley with Duncan. Ended up at Ban-y-gor in the mizzle and did a few easy things which had remained dry-ish. Fell off a 6c & 6b+, which is a bit crap but given the conditions I'll give myself a break. The Crawl buttress looked like it has some good mid 7's to return for.

Friday - Pembroke with some old Uni mates. Grim weather all morning but walked in for a look and seconded Anyone for Stennis, then lead the brilliant Riders on the Storm.

Saturday - Mowingword. Seconded Chimes of Freedom, Blowin in the wind and Charenton Crack. Lead Logos and tried to remember how to place trad. gear.

Sunday - Rusty Walls, Triple overhang and Stennis Head. Lead Solidarity, which was very nice. Seconded Lucky Strike, Galactic organiser and Manzoku.

Monday Morning Abbed in to Mother Carey's and lead The Meridian just before the heavens opened, good timing as second topped out at the exact right time.

Had a great week back out on rock, noticeably crap on hanging belays above the seas and not happy with my faff levels. But happy enough puntering around on HVS/E1 and remembering how to place gear. Feeling a lot more confident on a rope in general though. Hopefully get a couple of days of trad or sport this week and a bit more mileage!

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#20 Re: Power Club 543 3rd - 9th August 2020
August 11, 2020, 09:19:57 am
Power Club

Mon - BM pockets, only 5 sets but with 2 kg added. Strong. Boxing bag.
Tue - gym, legs. Weights.
Wed - 15' farmer's. 3/1 x5.
Thu - gym, legs. Weights.
Fri - rest.
Sat - weights. 34 degrees in the garage.
Sun - weights.

Finished my knee rehab and went back to a gym to try and recover some decent muscle mass. Endless sets of leg curls, leg extensions, leg presses, very boring. No explosive lifts in front of thrilled girls, booooo for me.

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#21 Re: Power Club 543 3rd - 9th August 2020
August 11, 2020, 09:22:05 am
Out of interest what are density hangs?

Thanks Dave
They're described in the second workout description here: https://www.trainingbeta.com/the-simplest-finger-training-program/

Essentially 2-arm hangs for 20-40 seconds.
This reminds me of a session I used to do many years ago, involving 1' lock offs on 10 mm edge for reps. Talk about healthy elbows.

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#22 Re: Power Club 543 3rd - 9th August 2020
August 11, 2020, 10:19:31 am

Thursday - Wye Valley with Duncan. Ended up at Ban-y-gor in the mizzle and did a few easy things which had remained dry-ish. Fell off a 6c & 6b+, which is a bit crap but given the conditions I'll give myself a break. The Crawl buttress looked like it has some good mid 7's to return for.


csl/duncan - having rediscovered Ban-y-gor this year, def walk along to the main cliff - Heady Days is fantastic positions at the grade, and Almost Me is prob the best 7c I've done in this country (apart from Mark of the Beast).

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#23 Re: Power Club 543 3rd - 9th August 2020
August 11, 2020, 10:22:15 am

Thursday - Wye Valley with Duncan. Ended up at Ban-y-gor in the mizzle and did a few easy things which had remained dry-ish. Fell off a 6c & 6b+, which is a bit crap but given the conditions I'll give myself a break. The Crawl buttress looked like it has some good mid 7's to return for.


csl/duncan - having rediscovered Ban-y-gor this year, def walk along to the main cliff - Heady Days is fantastic positions at the grade, and Almost Me is prob the best 7c I've done in this country (apart from Mark of the Beast).

Thanks Duma, Almost Me is definitely on the list once I manage to get back on form!

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#24 Re: Power Club 543 3rd - 9th August 2020
August 11, 2020, 10:25:57 am
They're described in the second workout description here: https://www.trainingbeta.com/the-simplest-finger-training-program/

Essentially 2-arm hangs for 20-40 seconds.
This reminds me of a session I used to do many years ago, involving 1' lock offs on 10 mm edge for reps. Talk about healthy elbows.

The main aim to “create new bonds in the tendons but also some cross-sectional area (hypertrophy) to the muscle fibers themselves” in order to make the climber better prepared for higher loads with reduced risk of injury.

As Duncan says given that I’ve been climbing a long time and don’t get finger injuries it’s probably unnecessary though I am curious what the negative effects are (arthritis?)
« Last Edit: August 11, 2020, 11:07:03 am by shark »

 

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