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Power Club 540 13 - 19 July (Read 3178 times)

shark

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Power Club 540 13 - 19 July
July 19, 2020, 11:19:35 pm
11.6-7 Average 160.9 (down 0.1lbs)

M.

T. AM. FB warm up. Met Nick at Tor and had 3 tie ins on Anger Management. Conditions fine but did worse on it than Friday. Third go up bailed at the hole. Felt dreadful after and confirmed I needed time out which is what I thought on Sunday. Should have cancelled going. Tom did Cave Problem and Rattle and Hump

W.  :tumble:

T.  :tumble:

F.  :tumble:

S.  :tumble:

S. AM Lovely day. Anston Hidden Wall with boys to try Jack the Nipper 7B+ at Bens suggestion. Ben didn’t like it though - too high. I had a couple of sessions on it three years ago and had some beta written. Felt much better from having the break and far stronger on the holds than I remember. Got as far as reaching into the slopey niche a few times. Tommy didn’t do much better. Bumped into Saltbeef on the way out.


Hate having long breaks. Went on a couple of cool walks in the Peak on Monday and Friday covering some lovely new ground up Monks Dale and around Wardlow/Longstone.

Tommy is a relentless send train. He did Moffatrocity too. I’m delighted for him but it’s also a constant reminder of my inadequacies. He’s logging his sends on Instagram now if anyone’s interested:
www.instagram.com/p/CCoV-Sul0Bt

Been stretching more regularly.

Will Hunt

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#1 Re: Power Club 540 13 - 19 July
July 20, 2020, 09:41:05 am
Th - Topo drawing at Gigg South. 5 hours thereof. Managed to do a bit of climbing afterwards but just checkin details so nothing difficult.

Su - Hollywood Bowl. I'd said that I wasn't going to come back but this is where Sam and Dave were going. Dogged up Sunset Brown and the top crux felt difficult with some bunched heel hooking on the flake in the roof to make use of a dreadful pocket. Came down and went up for a speculative redpoint go. Rested well in the roof flake and did it! Was pretty pleased with this. There's no way its 7c+ - it's arguably no harder than Sunset Boulevard who's crux is maybe slightly easier (is it?!) but more droppable. Was a big confidence boost to get to the roof flake and be able to relax there.

There were now no excuses not to try Divine Brown. Was surprised at the start moves which felt manageable - probably easier for the tall and almost all on big holds, just steep. Dogged up to the top crux (shared with Sunset Brown) and came down. Had a redpoint go and got to the roof flake. Was a bit tired but felt like I should have enough in the tank. Rested and then made terrible decisions. Firstly, completely forgot the sequence to do the top. And I paused on the smallest bit of the roof flake to clip a higher draw, which I should have skipped. The draw was spinning in space and I got wrecked trying to get it clipped. A bit frustrating as if I'd remembered the sequence I think I was in with a chance. Ho hum. First 7c+ happening in a session probably would have been too much to ask anyway - keen to go back.

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#2 Re: Power Club 540 13 - 19 July
July 20, 2020, 10:12:48 am
Mon: Board session. 10 warm up problems then trying the same couple of problems (one problem, mirrored) I've been trying for the last few weeks. Some more minor progress on the crux, latching the hold, holding the swing but then dropped off before getting my feet back on. Worked the last few moves which went ok in isolation. 34 pullups and some stretching.

Tues: Rest

Wed: Board session. Ancap-style session, reps of a 12 move problem with 1:30 rest between reps. Persisted with the tweaked harder version of the problem that I tried last week. Much better session than last week. Completed 5 of 8 reps, powered-out at the 10th move of the three failed attempts. 34 pullups and some stretching.

Thurs-Sat: Rest.

Sun: Board session. 12 warm up problems, then trying the same problems as Monday. Did the right-hand start version first go: stuck the crux, got feet back on and cruised the moves to the top. Couldn't do the same on the left-hand version, the only time I latched the next hold on the crux with my right hand, my left fired off the crimp. Tried the mirror version of my ancap problem with the aim of incorporating that into future ancap sessions - can do it ok but not particularly smoothly, don't have the foot placements wired. 35 pullups and some stretching.

Decent week. Good to get three sessions on the board and to see some progress. No fingerboarding, will get back on that this week, ditto for aerocap work. Rigged a tarp up on the garden board during Monday's session as it started raining, works pretty well at keeping the weather out so that should allow me to use the board more.

HarryBD

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#3 Re: Power Club 540 13 - 19 July
July 20, 2020, 10:16:46 am
Nice one Shark.

Two weeks for me, haven't been doing much in the way of training except for running. Just trying to get out climbing. Do a few pullups everytime I go into the kitchen.

T - 9 miles on Barden Moor

W - Climbing at Baildon, did Hades then went over to Scar, did the crack then it started chucking it down so lowered off, felt more pumped than last time I tried it.

S - Walking in the Moors

S - Walking in the lakes, nice circular from Haweswater

W - Trollers Gill, trying Jim Grin. Found the start really tough and managed it in three parts. Good to get really pumped.

T - Almscliff, Black Wall and Central Climb, Black Wall felt hard again but kept my head which is progress.

S - Brimham, Fag Slab Variant and The Hattery. Enjoyed both of these. Felt confident above my gear and the climbing was comfortable. Much quieter here than the pinnacles!

monkoffunk

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#4 Re: Power Club 540 13 - 19 July
July 20, 2020, 10:25:19 am
M - Endurance on finger board. 1 min on and off problems.
T - Rest.
W - Recruitment hangs.
T - Battleship on Portland. Reacquainted with Zinc. Still need a bit of fitness! Did a handful 6b+ to 6c. No cramps at end of day, moving in right direction.
F - Short problems 1 on 1 off x 5. Then was gonna to slightly longer problems but went swimming in sea instead.
S - Needed to rest. Gentle sea swim.
S - Rest as climbing Monday otherwise would have done something.

Can’t wait to not have to do stamina type stuff on a finger board, but it’s what I’m seriously lacking right now. Expect improvements are mostly from sport climbing days though.

mr chaz

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#5 Re: Power Club 540 13 - 19 July
July 20, 2020, 10:40:57 am
Goals i) Maintain finger strength and ii) get out and enjoy some climbing

M. Fingerboard - 2 arm max hangs
T. 2hrs cutting hedge. Fast (for me!) 2.2km run.
W. Fingerboard - 1 arm max hangs
T. 15 minute HIIT
F.
S.
S. Sunny bouldering at Newstones. Lovely day out trying to drag my arse up as many 5th/6th grade problems as I could. Was climbing pretty poorly, felt very scrappy and forgot all my beta. Took me about 30 minutes and a fair amount of swearing to get up The Ripple, and it still didn't feel right on the successful go. Toes are not used to being in climbing shoes at the moment, got very painful and ultimately stopped play at around 2ish. Little walk up Ramshaw with the gf to finish the day and a Big Mac on the way home.  :2thumbsup:



JohnM

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#6 Re: Power Club 540 13 - 19 July
July 20, 2020, 11:06:25 am
Weight - 146lbs

M - Girlfriends family still around. Gondola up the mountain to wander around + eating and drinking.

T - Fatigued after a long weekend of eating and drinking...nothing!

W - Neil Gresham endurance session on the fingerboard (11kg assistance) - painful! Mountain biking single trails. First proper trails for some time so took it easy. First one was pretty rocky and it didn't help that I forgot to unlock the suspension after the ride up. The second one was smooth and flowy with berms and jumps. Pure joy! 27km with 1081m of drop.

T - Trail run - 12km with 512m elevation gain.

F - Climbing at Silz. After puntering the 8a the week before I talked the girlfriend into giving me a quick belay in the afternoon to try and actually finish something off, but unfortunately the punter chronicles continued. Fell off on my first try and worked some more secure beta for the crux. Got through the crux on my second try and then after a tricky mantle move it is an easy 6b romp to the top. However, after pulling through the final overhang and on the jug just before you pull round to the chain my boot heel loop decided to clip itself into the quickdraw below the overhang. I was stuck and unable to reach down to free it. After thrashing around and trying all sorts of contortions I had to give up and sit on the rope. Luckily, I had clipped the draw just above the overhang, otherwise the fall would have been nasty. I would have been flipped upside down, smashing into the rock hanging by my heel! Decided to take the tick and went home!

S - Bit of a mixed activity day. First mountain biking into a valley to check out some potential new boulders I had seen from a previous trail run. Despite being visible from the path they were really hard to access and I had to scramble down a steep slope, wade across quite a strong river and then do some horrendous bush whack. The boulders turned out to be crap choss. I then carried on an did a small mountain bike tour (20km with 475m height gain) and then did a run/fast hike up Hohe Munde, an impressive looking mountain (16km with 1600m height gain). From the valley I thought the alpine routes on the mountains south face looked incredible, but on closer inspection it was steep choss.     

S - Bouldering in Oetztal. Went to try a 7C by a very powerful white water river with impressive rapids. The boulder is not really high but is over a big drop that is partially filled with a wooden platform so it took me a while to get comfortable. Did the stand and set to work on the sit. Had a lot of tries and got close but unfortunately didn't do it. Although it was cool by the river the holds were condensing under my hands and I kept slipping out of a marginal compression move. Went to check out an 8a called Die Perfekte Welle (The Perfect Wave). This is the biggest rising lip traverse/prow I have ever seen! Very impressive but looks hard to pad out. On walking out the correct way after going wrong on the approach I saw there were signs everywhere saying bouldering is banned. This is a shame because I really like the venue but hopefully I can find another access.

A good week and nice to go bouldering again. I had forgotten how much fun it could be if the venue and the rock is good.

nai

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#7 Re: Power Club 540 13 - 19 July
July 20, 2020, 11:12:54 am
This week has been mostly about Lammegeier chasing for me.

M - 5am start, 5km walk, missed it by 20 minutes, couple of hours hanging around, 5km walk

T - 30 minutes LI, bit of conditioning, core

W - 3am start, 5km bike ride, 2km walk, wasn't on it's roost, 3 hours hanging around, no bird, 1km walk, 5km bike ride
PM - 20 mins LI

Th - 30 Mins LI, core. Eve 5km bike ride, 1km walk, 3 hours hanging around, no bird, 1km walk, 5km bike ride

Fr - civilized 6am start, convinced nipper to come with me, 5km walk, few hours hanging around, saw it from about 5km away then picked it up 20 minutes later and had a good view of it cruise in from about 4km, passed about 500m away and offf again.  Don't think it flapped once in all that time. Amazing.

Eve - met Lagers at Burbage North, did 5 routes. First trad for ages, did quite a bit of flapping. Great fun

S 20 mins LI

S Stretch

SA Chris

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#8 Re: Power Club 540 13 - 19 July
July 20, 2020, 11:28:05 am
my boot heel loop decided to clip itself into the quickdraw below the overhang.

Unfortunate! Never head of that happening! Good reason for velcros? Could carry on with one shoe off and ne shoe ...

After hectic week away on holidays and straight back to work, felt pretty knackered.

M - Back to athletics, considered going for a run while son in training, but strange pain up front of foot from toes to mid calf, so walked by river instead. Board session, felt OK after not doing much hard climbing for the week.
T - bit of weight training, mostly beasted myself with dumbbell curls. Walk.
W - knackered after weight training, bit of core training.
T - board session, first time trying half domes, things are brutal, just what i need. Warm in garage, first time I've needed door open.
F - not a lot. Mental busy work day. Was going to go out and try to photograph NEOWISE, but fell asleep after one beer.
S - Went to Catterline with family. Gorgeous in the bay, if it was anywhere else in the world it would have been rammed, there were probably a dozen people there. Swimming with family, then out on SUP with and without family. Windy as soon as out of the bay, had a hard upwind paddle when I strayed too far out of the bay at one point.
S - not much, walk in the woods with family, rained. Board session in evening, focus on circuits, actually managing to get better on the crimp circuit.
W -

Nibile

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#9 Re: Power Club 540 13 - 19 July
July 20, 2020, 01:22:07 pm
Power Club

Mon - weights, bar work.
Tue - rest.
Wed - fingers, garage session, quite strong. Started again adding 2 kg to compensate for leg muscle loss after surgery. Weights, bar work.
Thu - pull ups finisher 4x14, weights.
Fri - rest.
Sat - weights.
Sun - rest.

duncan

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#10 Re: Power Club 540 13 - 19 July
July 20, 2020, 04:42:10 pm
JohnM, that’s a mad story!  Glad you didn’t have to jump off.

M - Shoulder strength: lock-offs, handstands, side-planks.
T - Weighted pull-ups
W - Fingerboard finger rehab.
T - Shoulder strength
F - Fingerboard finger rehab.
S - Shoulder strength
S - The mighty Colehill Quarry with Sean. Southern England was under a cloud so there was a last minute change of plan. Colehill is like a small part of the Avon sea-walls relocated to Wirksworth so I’m not counting it as my once a decade visit to a Peak Limestone quarry. Most of the routes we did would be sketchy E1s or E2s with a few old pegs if they were in Bristol. Despite the bolts they still felt quite trad. A local’s venue but pleasant enough for an afternoon’s bumbling.

Did 5 routes in the 6a-6b region and got on Just The Right Side of 30 (out by more than a factor of two!). A two move 7a in the direct afternoon sun was not an ideal choice but it went once realising I needed to be a bit more constructive with my feet. Sketched up the rest of the route and didn’t pump out after three moves. Sean also did it and we drove back tired but happy. 

Feeling a bit more confident and moving a little more freely, time to try something a bit harder. Finger seems more-or-less fixed now so will cautiously add a light weight to the fingerboarding.


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#11 Re: Power Club 540 13 - 19 July
July 20, 2020, 05:56:12 pm

On walking out the correct way after going wrong on the approach I saw there were signs everywhere saying bouldering is banned. This is a shame because I really like the venue but hopefully I can find another access.

A good week and nice to go bouldering again. I had forgotten how much fun it could be if the venue and the rock is good.

Park lower down at Habichen. At habichen turn off, drive until you get to an underpass, drive through it, and you will see a car park on your left at a bridge. Park here. Walk under the bridge and follow the trail to Tumpen. You will pass Drunken Master / All Good boulder on your way in which might take your fancy.

Bradders

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#12 Re: Power Club 540 13 - 19 July
July 20, 2020, 09:52:33 pm
M - two arm max hangs, 19mm edge half crimp up to 4x 5s +39.5kg.

T - went to Church Crag in the evening but it was damp, smeggy and shit. Felt like I was about to ping off the whole time, and indeed did several times. Didn't stay long, or do anything of note.

W - 4km run. 19 minutes. New PB for this route. Still a long way from when I used to be able to do 5km in the same sort of time, but good progress all the same.

T - Forest Rock. Back on Enchantress having got close pre-lockdown. This time dropped the last move about 6 times. I blame poor conditions; early 20s and humid, had no chalk after only doing a couple of moves. Finished the session just trying to run lots of laps from the start and actually got to the last move a couple more times despite very short rests.

F - did some mediums on the board to get going and then into boulder doubles. Didn't feel great, lacking tension but tried same 6 harder than flash level problems as last week and failed 3 times this week, versus 2 last week.

S - board volume, easier than flash level problems, 1 minute rests between attempts. Same problems as last week but 22 attempts this time, up from 20 last. Failed 5 times so not too bad and powered through a few of them quite well. Afterwards did 5x 6r rings Is & 6r Ts back-to-back, then 5x 20 rings push ups and 5x 10 rings pull ups.

S - gentle stroll up Blencathra via Sharp Edge, then back down Halls Fell Ridge. Perfect day for it.

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#13 Re: Power Club 540 13 - 19 July
July 21, 2020, 07:32:08 am
M - Weather looking a bit better this week. Planned early start at Almscliffe but then raining early so put it back an hour. Good session. Get very close to doing Si’s Arête. I do remember when I did this a lot, there were days when it felt very easy and days when it felt nails. Have a go at Syrett’s Roof but get scared half way through the rockover, I do remember falling off it in 1991 and scraping my face down the wall, which was putting me off a bit. Finish off doing things around Wall of Horrors. Watch Steve do the start and realise that in his guide when he says, “Jump,” he means jump off when you get the horn, rather than jump to the horn.....every days a school day. Finish playing stupid games trying to get into the niche using different sets of holds.

T - Back up to Almscliffe on my own to do Si’s Arête. Start at last move and come down a move each go, which works well for a couple of moves when I smash my already sore knuckles into the rock again. Conditions are better and work out a sequence going with my left hand to the break, so now have options. A few more minutes and job done, going with right hand to the break. Wander about a bit doing some mileage and then go home.

W - Almscliffe for the third time this week. The forecast is good but it’s raining a bit but sure it’ll be fine. By the time we have warmed up it’s anything but fine. Do most of the crack problem coming out from the start of the Keel despite a foothold being wet but don’t top out as the current was too strong.......back again tomorrow.
Go out for a 10k run on the local race course and manage my third quickest time, so happy with that.

T - As planned back at Almscliffe. Do the crack problem to warm up. Then some stuff on the boulder that is low down in the wall and finish with a range of problems around Teaspoon Variation. What a difference a day makes, a beautiful day to be out.
Very steady 10k run around the block.

F - Steady session pottering around on very easy stuff up at West Nab. Very hot day up there.

S- Bit of core

S- Bit more core

Happy enough with how the week has gone.

tomtom

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#14 Re: Power Club 540 13 - 19 July
July 21, 2020, 09:48:01 am
Gollum - SI’s quite often stays dry when it’s raining - so can be one to literally save for a rainy day (though sounds like you’re well stuck into it).

It’s also a lot easier when it’s cold!

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#15 Re: Power Club 540 13 - 19 July
July 21, 2020, 12:37:35 pm
Rejoining since syke levels seem to have risen consistently over the past few weeks. After initial lockdown excitement about the prospect of building a garden board, I got sidetracked by eating and boozing far too much. On top of 5 months of commuting and train beers (and no training) I realised one day that I’d undone 3 years of weight loss so desperate measures  immediately initiated. Started cycling again, and started planning a solo alpine gravel road bike tour for August*. Eventually decided that plan, though potentially super fun was rather unfair on my kids, so instead we’re now going to Font next month. Cue intense reevaluation of climbing training and potential for performance optimisation with about 6 weeks till departure. Mainly focusing on losing weight, flexibility (interested to see how much this will help) and as many days out as poss, interspersed with training. I’ve been deadhanging and doing strength stuff sporadically over past few months so not completely de-trained.

M - Fingerboard / pull-ups / stretching / 1hr hard turbo trainer
T - Bowles. First time on rock since last October. Got v pumped on routes, but did various things on Fandango wall which I wasn’t expecting to be able to even hang - quite relieved.
W
T - Harrisons. Insanely hot. Ended up trying problems on the North Boulder with a bunch of moustachioed hackney hipsters. Struggled quite a lot.
F - Back to Harrisons. Even hotter. Felt better on everything, but not quite good enough to actually finish anything.
S - Long walk on the South Downs with kids
S - Fingerboard and stretching / 1hr hard turbo trainer

Plans - at least one decent day trip every week, inc Churnet this week. Daughter’s wall squad sessions resume next week so  make good use of 2-3 out-of hours sessions per week. Diet seems to be working pretty well now. Introduce more frequent but shorter FB sessions before climbing outside.

*I plotted 2 weeks worth of GPX files from Turin to Grenoble via Sestriere / Briancon, etc, based on routes from this amazing book - https://www.isolapress.com/shop/roughstuff-alps - and do still really fancy riding it sometime...

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#16 Re: Power Club 540 13 - 19 July
July 21, 2020, 01:02:43 pm
Gollum - SI’s quite often stays dry when it’s raining - so can be one to literally save for a rainy day (though sounds like you’re well stuck into it).

It’s also a lot easier when it’s cold!

Cheers TT. I did get it done but based on how badly I trashed my knuckle, think I’ll be leaving it until it’s cold to do it again. Always thought it was a really nice problem and over the years think I’ve done it about four different ways.

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#17 Re: Power Club 540 13 - 19 July
July 21, 2020, 08:51:46 pm
Brief report this week..

Mon: Ousels nest for an hour before twilight. Progress - felt good despite it being humid and insecty

Tu: board. Good session.

We; one arm day. Alright. Nothing spectacular.

Th: nice hour/90 min out with 3T and families at Holmfirth. No children injured - climbed some nice problems.

Fri: Rubicon. Half a dozen very good go’s on Kudos. Best slapping to edge of final hold. It’s got a matter of time feel to it this year 👍👍 felt much better on the Press too. Not even a bounce of a French start. Bit more lock and control....

Sat: holiday. Drive to Norfolk.

Presently relaxing at the in laws - watching a combine harvester (type machine) clearing the rapeseed field next to the house. Never felt the aaah... of a holiday like I have this year...

SA Chris

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#18 Re: Power Club 540 13 - 19 July
July 22, 2020, 12:22:10 am
Cutting rape, I'm sneezing at the thought of it.

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#19 Re: Power Club 540 13 - 19 July
July 22, 2020, 07:09:05 am
Quote
Park lower down at Habichen. At habichen turn off, drive until you get to an underpass, drive through it, and you will see a car park on your left at a bridge. Park here. Walk under the bridge and follow the trail to Tumpen. You will pass Drunken Master / All Good boulder on your way in which might take your fancy.

Thanks a lot for the knowledge! I did a search online but all the information was vague or conflicting. With this in mind, I wrote this spot off, which was a shame as I really liked it. I was trying All Good actually and it would be good to start trying Drunken Master when I get that done.

 

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