Thought I would briefly write up what we got up to incase it is useful to anyone else. We stayed at the Zechner campsite in Fischertratten - nice basic campsite, good facilities, cheap (~12€ per night), has a bar which serves really nice chips and is located about 10mins from the main sport climbing and bouldering areas. There is a decent and quite reasonable restaurant in the fort at Gmund.
We mainly did easy multipitch routes so I cant comment too much on the sport climbing and bouldering, the alpine stuff looks great - hoping to get back later in the summer to sample it.
Humuspfeiler & SchluchtwandAn impressive looking crag - the harder routes on the left hand side look really good.
Luftikus 6a, 6a+, 6aNot sure whether this is granite of gneiss but good quality rock either way, particularly the first pitch had some pretty bizarre features which I haven't come accross before. Nice and steep all the way.
Vileda 6a, 6a, 6a+, 5bLooks pretty dirty but don't let that put you off, there is some great climbing! Middle two pitches the best. Mixture of slab climbing with some steeper sections.
I also did a few single pitch routes at the base of the crag, they are quite nice for finishing off after a longer route but probably not worth a visit in their own right. Best were Beißer (6b) and Goldfinger (7a+).
BreitwandThis crag is not in Maltatal itself so probably a good place to head to if the weather craps out in the valley.
Seinerzeit 5a, 5c, 4b, 5a, 5a, 4c, 4bMainly good rock and decent climbing but some ledge shuffling involved. A little bit harder than the grades would suggest IMO. The line is not super obvious on pitch 5, you kind of step up into a slabby groove and then move up a leftwards past some foliage IIRC. There are some bolts further right but I think they are for a different route.
KreuzwandThis is a good quality sport crag with quite a lot to choose from. Unfortunatelty we didn't get chance to sample that much but we did a few quality routes.
Gfiatach 5a, 6a+ Good second pitch with some nice jamming sections. Can be done in one long pitch but this requires multiple lower offs with a 70m rope - even then it was a bit tight!
Super Gau 5c, 6c+, 7a+ Absolutely amazing route, classy all the way. Pitch 2 has an awesome steep hand/fist jamming section. Pitch 3 has a bit of a weird start but then follows a discontinuous finger crack, bit of a heartbreak finish - I fell off two moves from jugs! I did it in one massive pitch with two lower offs.