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Power Club 539 5th-12th July 2020 (Read 5080 times)

tomtom

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Power Club 539 5th-12th July 2020
July 12, 2020, 09:11:31 pm
Mon: Started doing some weighted one arm pulls/hangs and just couldn't be arsed.

Decided this was going to be a 'rest' week. Worked out I'd trained/climbed 76/105 days since lockdown(ish) started and figured that having only one break wasn't really enough.

Weds: Our lads 4th Birthday. Great fun - really tiring. All day lego action...

Thurs: Had my first lego dream. Not especially pleasant from what I remember...

Friday: Gagging to get out... slightly sniffy forecast so headed up to Trowborrow. Arrived feeling really quite giddy... all those efforts pre lockdown on Pit Problem and Neds - and now with some lockdown training gainZ - psyche was high. I had my arse well and truly kicked and skulked out of the quarry barely more than an hour later.... :D I suppose on reflection there were 4 or 5 attempts where I felt really good and better - but the rest was utter shite. Funk Phenomena was (unusually) dry and it summed up my day that I could just about heave my arse off the deck using all my gurning ooph - and remain in that position for 1 second before flopping back onto my mats.

Sat: Felt so dejected by Friday I did some one arm hangs and was pretty decent*. Yeah.

Sun: Full on family trip to Formby beach. Great day - managed to knacker him out so much he fell asleep straight away on the way home so parents could have a crafty coffee and ice cream. Could have made the effort to get out in the evening - but sat on my arse and watched the football.

*is this the tipping point in my climbing life - where training has overtaken climbing as the reason to do it.... :D

Andy F

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#1 Re: Power Club 539 5th-12th July 2020
July 13, 2020, 06:50:49 am
Did you see any Red Squirrels?

tomtom

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#2 Re: Power Club 539 5th-12th July 2020
July 13, 2020, 07:48:56 am
Did you see any Red Squirrels?

Nope. The vultures had got them all.

shark

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#3 Re: Power Club 539 5th-12th July 2020
July 13, 2020, 08:51:51 am
11.6-7 Average  160.1 (up 0.7lbs)

M.

T. AM Slept poorly. FB warmup At Tor for 8am with Tommy to meet Nick. No vans again or anybody else for that matter at that time. Got gradually drizzlier. Others showed up. Good conditions but not as good as Friday Warm up on THFML x3 then 3 tie ins on the start of Rev. Can get my toe up to roof but unable to angle my heel to get the right heel/toe in wherever I put my left. Need to do some hip turnout stretches. Feeling pretty comfortable hanging on the slot though. Tommy did Bens Roof whilst I wasn’t watching. I managed to link moves one and two of the hard bit of Bens without then one, two and three falling off the cross through move so happy with that. Good crowd there. Nic Sellars has tufty hair dyed bright orange and looks like Johnny Rotten.

PM Density hangs session on Ergo Edge followed by 3 sets of Barbell Overhead Press, Straight leg deadlifts, Front squats and pull-ups

W.

T.AM Short Systems Board session with Ben

F. FB warm up. Rain stopped at last! Out with Tom to meet Nick at Tor. Nice conditions. Couple of tie ins on start of Revelations. We decided we weren’t getting anywhere. Caff took over and wasn’t making it look easy. Went up Anger Management after Nick for the first time since I broke a key foothold (last year?) Did all the moves fairly quickly. Didn’t feel intimidated. Think my scary day out shunting at High Tor helped. Finished off doing the hardest 2 moves on Bens Without straight off and then again a couple more times. Love busting out those moves. Tommy got really close on Cave Problem. Left at midday. Crowded by then. Good to catch up with Ray Wood

Eve. Max hangs session on Ergo Edge followed by 3 sets of Barbell Overhead Press, Straight leg deadlifts and Front squats


S.

S. AM Anston with boys. Re- worked Soul Crusher. Got the hardest move in the end. Got close on the other two hard moves
PM/Eve Gardening and Painting. Wiped out. Gave fingerboard a miss


Set back on the weekly weight average following a couple of social occasions at beginning of the week but ended the week at the same weight as last week.

Psyched about Anger Management. About time I started back on routes and started building endurance.

Did some hip flexibility work to help with getting the heel toe in on Revelations.

Solid week. Still no ticks but generally heading slowly in the right direction I think.

Nutty

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#4 Re: Power Club 539 5th-12th July 2020
July 13, 2020, 09:19:02 am
Mon: Fingerboard and misc. exercises. 5 x 20 sec assisted one-arm hangs @ 80% bodyweight on each arm, 20mm edge. Pinky mono lifts. I had swapped my Petzl Fixe pulley out for a microtraxion for this session after the thread on pulley efficiency which was noticeable as I struggled on some hangs on my right arm - my weak right pinky being the issue.

Tues: Rest.

Wed: Rest. Fingers still felt battered from following Sunday's board session with Monday's fingerboarding.

Thurs: Decided I needed to start doing some aerocap work as I've done nothing on this over lockdown. Moving between the 20mm and 25mm rungs on my fingerboard setup with feet on a step. Predictably rubbish at it, only managing ~2 minutes each time. Did 5 sets of it with 10 mins 'rest' between - did some push-ups etc. in rest period.

Fri: Garden board session. 10 warm-up problems than trying the same problems as last week. Some more progress, catching the next hold a couple of times but couldn't keep feet on or hold the cut-loose.

Sat-Sun: Rest

Ok week. Jarred my right ankle a bit on a tree root on Saturday when playing in the park with my son. Had intended to do another board session on Sunday but it just felt too hot in the evening.

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#5 Re: Power Club 539 5th-12th July 2020
July 13, 2020, 09:51:37 am
M - Nowt

T - Up to Caley boulders in the morning. Get a reasonable session in round and about the Sugarloaf boulder before the showers arrive.
Easy 10k in the afternoon.

W- Nothing, except watching the rain,

T - Plan to get out early, but, guess what, it’s raining. YYFY, get to go and visit my Mum today who has dementia and is in a care home in Manchester. Despite having same conversation three times, fabulous to see her for the first time since February.

F - Weather good first thing, so off to Almscliffe. Get a good few hours in. Do the low Crucifix traverse straight away after working the last hard move once. Pleased to get this done as this was the start of the chest/shoulder tear that started as a niggle in November and was a fully fledged tear by January. Then get really close to Si’s Arete, until it gets a bit too warm and greasy and I manage to catch my knuckles really hard. Finish off on Silver Trout. Feels okay with a heel hook. Then the showers start and we leg it.

S + S - Familu stuff.

Not so much done this week, but happy with the days when I did get out.

mr chaz

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#6 Re: Power Club 539 5th-12th July 2020
July 13, 2020, 10:08:51 am
M.
T. Fingerboard - 2arm max hangs
W.
T. Fingerboard - 2arm max hangs
F.
S. Sport climbing at Trevor. First and last time here, crock o' shit. Hoards of people, playing loud music, lighting fires, tons of loose rock. I generally avoid places like this, especially on weekends, seems I was right to. Still, we got up a few decent routes, best of which was This Way to Clitheroe 6c at the quarry section. Had brought the trad rack thinking I might fancy some of the low Es in the quarry, wrong!
S.

Onto the next...

shark

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#7 Re: Power Club 539 5th-12th July 2020
July 13, 2020, 10:13:05 am
Quote from: mr chaz
S. Sport climbing at Trevor. First and last time here, crock o' shit. Hoards of people, playing loud music, lighting fires, tons of loose rock.

  :o Nightmare
« Last Edit: July 13, 2020, 10:18:49 am by shark »

dunnyg

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#8 Re: Power Club 539 5th-12th July 2020
July 13, 2020, 10:24:02 am
I had a nice day at trevor about a decade ago, in winter (and along from the main quarry). I was young and keen to climb anything then though.

RobK

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#9 Re: Power Club 539 5th-12th July 2020
July 13, 2020, 10:26:23 am
Sport climbing at Trevor. First and last time here, crock o' shit. Hoards of people, playing loud music, lighting fires, tons of loose rock.

Even if it's quiet, most people don't make the mistake of going more than once. The Horseshoe of the Clwyds.

duncan

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#10 Re: Power Club 539 5th-12th July 2020
July 13, 2020, 11:14:10 am
M - Fingerboard finger rehab:10s hangs. Cycled great distance across London to meet up with my sister for the first time since Covid. (at a responsible distance, she’s in a vulnerable group). 
T - Shoulder strength: lock-offs, handstands, side-planks.
W - Fingerboard finger rehab. Weighted pull-ups: 85kg load. Elbow a bit sore after this.
T - Elbow still sore. Run for 25 mins.
F - Day trip to Portland (Wallsend) with Sean. 2 other teams on the same crag, one clearly learning how to climb outdoors. Warmed-up on Cosa Nostra, thinking we’d try Acid Jazz Disco. Had second thoughts about the latter, looked a bit chossy and generally not feeling very brave. Had a play on RP Screamers (7a) as a low stress alternative. Seemed hard to start with, a typical Portland maze of holds, but figured out a sequence and it went first go. Sean then did it. Short but sweet, good rock and moves. This little sector of Wallsend is recommended for bouldery routes on good rock, in a sheltered grassy bay high above the sea. Sat in the sun drinking tea and gazing at circling naval planes and passing ships. Then had a play on Alpenglow (7a+), (next door to RPS, sharing some holds!). Heat, skin-loss, sharp rock, and fatigue halted progress pretty quickly. Not many moves for a lot of time in a car but a very satisfying day. 
S - Day trip to Weston-super-Mare to see my Mum for the first time since Covid. I'm very lucky in that she’s in decent health for her age but she's not finding this easy. Socially distanced picnic on the beach, shoulder strength body weight stuff, kite flying, and some ‘cello playing in the garden. Proud parents/grandparent...
S - Worn-out. Difficult day with the lad, he’s also fed-up. Managed a decent fingerboard session near the end of the day.

Difficult week in general, saved by a good day out and seeing family again. Ground down a bit by covid, work, and missing social contact. Would like to see more of my friends, don't feel that comfortable expanding my bubble.

Thanks for the heads-up about Trevor. One of my aims this year was to climb at some new crags (so far, three trips to Portland!) and Clywd limestone was on the list as being doable from London. What might be worth the traveling?

From a narrow fit club perspective, starting to get the benefit of lockdown fingers. Still feeling clunky and under-confident on rock but this will come back. Tweaks are mostly at a minimum: attempting to do pull-ups the same day as fingerboarding resulted in my elbows protesting, so will keep these separate.

Plan:ease back into max. hangs. Climb outside. Fairlop Waters bouldering has reopened so may be able to play on something akin to rock without driving for three hours. 
« Last Edit: July 13, 2020, 11:31:27 am by duncan »

RobK

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#11 Re: Power Club 539 5th-12th July 2020
July 13, 2020, 11:25:58 am
Thanks for the heads-up about Trevor. One of my aims this year was to climb at some new crags (so far, three trips to Portland!) and Clywd limestone was on the list as being doable from London. What might be worth the traveling?

The obvious candidates:
Dinbren - short bouldery/power endurance routes. A delightful outlook. A handful of 6s, quality starts at around 6c+/7a.
Devil's Gorge - the best climbing in the Clwyd IMO but conditions can be fickle. Quality starts at 7b.
Llanymynech - half decent 6s and low 7s in the main quarry. The climbing won't blow you away but maybe worth it for the novelty of 35m+ routes. Now the bird ban is lifted, Red Wall is good in the 6c-7a+ range. Very 3D climbing and has quite an adventurous feel.

duncan

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#12 Re: Power Club 539 5th-12th July 2020
July 13, 2020, 11:32:33 am
Thanks for the heads-up about Trevor. One of my aims this year was to climb at some new crags (so far, three trips to Portland!) and Clywd limestone was on the list as being doable from London. What might be worth the traveling?

The obvious candidates:
Dinbren - short bouldery/power endurance routes. A delightful outlook. A handful of 6s, quality starts at around 6c+/7a.
Devil's Gorge - the best climbing in the Clwyd IMO but conditions can be fickle. Quality starts at 7b.
Llanymynech - half decent 6s and low 7s in the main quarry. The climbing won't blow you away but maybe worth it for the novelty of 35m+ routes. Now the bird ban is lifted, Red Wall is good in the 6c-7a+ range. Very 3D climbing and has quite an adventurous feel.

Great summary, thank you.

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#13 Re: Power Club 539 5th-12th July 2020
July 13, 2020, 11:36:16 am
Finally getting some psyche back. Have only managed one morning climbing outside since January, due to the obvious (plus my car dying) but keen to try and rescue the rest of the year. I've taken a month off work from the end of July to try and do that, and as a result managed to find some psyche for hanging off a Beastmaker at home for the last 3 weeks, usually I do a cursory session every 6 months or so and then get bored.

Goals:
- Stick to regular training
- Do as much climbing outside in July/August as physically possible

Monday
- Max Hangs: Struggled a bit on my LH on the max hangs, need to watch I don't re-injure left wrist that caused me trouble all last year
- Lower body stretching in the rest periods.
- AeroCap on the fingerboard (requires either interesting podcasts or climbing films to make this possible)

Wednesday
- Power Endurance and Endurance on the fingerboard. Feels like the Crimpd app workouts are pretty good at replicating training on the wall in terms of pump levels.

Friday
- Max Hangs: ok session, more balanced but not as strong on the RH as Monday
- Stretching

Sunday
Was meant to be going climbing, but new car wasn't ready to pick up in time  :'(
Instead, I watched climbing films and hung on the beastmaker doing endurance workouts from Crimpd for 2.5 hours, quite tired by the end, but not sure how long this level of psyche will remain.

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#14 Re: Power Club 539 5th-12th July 2020
July 13, 2020, 11:39:18 am
Thanks for the heads-up about Trevor. One of my aims this year was to climb at some new crags (so far, three trips to Portland!) and Clywd limestone was on the list as being doable from London. What might be worth the traveling?

The obvious candidates:
Dinbren - short bouldery/power endurance routes. A delightful outlook. A handful of 6s, quality starts at around 6c+/7a.
Devil's Gorge - the best climbing in the Clwyd IMO but conditions can be fickle. Quality starts at 7b.
Llanymynech - half decent 6s and low 7s in the main quarry. The climbing won't blow you away but maybe worth it for the novelty of 35m+ routes. Now the bird ban is lifted, Red Wall is good in the 6c-7a+ range. Very 3D climbing and has quite an adventurous feel.

As Rob said, Dinbren is really good, only a short hop from Trevor but worlds apart in terms of quality. Total sun trap though, pick a cool or cloudy day.

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#15 Re: Power Club 539 5th-12th July 2020
July 13, 2020, 12:10:41 pm
I’ve missed a couple of weeks, which were basically just minimal training, with one unsuccessful bouldering day in the boiling heat, and one sport trip where I did a 7b in a few goes before getting mega pump and spasming forearm cramps again...

This week:

M - Post nights. Busy. Slept a lot.
T - Wedding anniversary.
W - Post wedding anniversary.
T - Foot on problems on finger board. 1 min on 1 off.
F - same again
S - rest
S - same again and swimming in sea.

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#16 Re: Power Club 539 5th-12th July 2020
July 13, 2020, 12:21:28 pm
The obvious candidates:
Dinbren - short bouldery/power endurance routes. A delightful outlook. A handful of 6s, quality starts at around 6c+/7a.
Devil's Gorge - the best climbing in the Clwyd IMO but conditions can be fickle. Quality starts at 7b.
Llanymynech - half decent 6s and low 7s in the main quarry. The climbing won't blow you away but maybe worth it for the novelty of 35m+ routes. Now the bird ban is lifted, Red Wall is good in the 6c-7a+ range. Very 3D climbing and has quite an adventurous feel.

I enjoyed my one trip bolt clipping at Dinbren.

Worth noting that Dinbren and Craig Arthur have some pretty decent looking trad on them if you’re doing that right now Duncan - I keep meaning to try to do some of it and never quite managing (it’s not an entirely unreasonable distance from my in-laws house in Birmingham - further than Churnet/Roaches but not I don’t think any worse than Stanage etc)

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#17 Re: Power Club 539 5th-12th July 2020
July 13, 2020, 12:29:36 pm
I went to Dinbren just after coming back from a 6 week trip to Loup and Verdon. I nearly quit climbing that day  :lol:  (I'm sure it's decent really, just not what I needed for my head at that moment!)

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#18 Re: Power Club 539 5th-12th July 2020
July 13, 2020, 12:47:13 pm
I went to Dinbren just after coming back from a 6 week trip to Loup and Verdon. I nearly quit climbing that day  :lol:  (I'm sure it's decent really, just not what I needed for my head at that moment!)

Dinbren is not Verdon shocker!  :jaw:

duncan

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#19 Re: Power Club 539 5th-12th July 2020
July 13, 2020, 12:50:47 pm
Worth noting that Dinbren and Craig Arthur have some pretty decent looking trad on them if you’re doing that right now Duncan

...generally not feeling very brave.

I keep meaning to try to do some of it and never quite managing (it’s not an entirely unreasonable distance from my in-laws house in Birmingham - further than Churnet/Roaches but not I don’t think any worse than Stanage etc)

If you need to escape the in-laws, give me a try, I might be feeling braver by then.

I went to Dinbren just after coming back from a 6 week trip to Loup and Verdon. I nearly quit climbing that day  :lol:  (I'm sure it's decent really, just not what I needed for my head at that moment!)

When you find a UK sport crag that's not a terrible disappointment after the Loup and Verdon can you let me know!

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#20 Re: Power Club 539 5th-12th July 2020
July 13, 2020, 01:53:55 pm
Power Club

Mon - BM 10/10 x6x6. Easy. Weights.
Tue - rest.
Wed - BM pockets after ages, still strong. Weights.
Thu - weights, pull ups.
Fri - rest.
Sat - weights, bar work.
Sun - weights.

As boring as it seems.

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#21 Re: Power Club 539 5th-12th July 2020
July 13, 2020, 02:08:52 pm
M - after work at Gigg South (Sector Limelight). A few 6s and a good 7a+.

W - evening at the K Hole. A warm up go dogging up 50 for 5 and refining the sequence for the first bit. Then a redpoint go, falling off slapping for the finishing rail.

S - family walk round Attermire

S - Gigg North. Dogged up Superbowl to the cave but felt crap on it. Should have warmed up! Decided to lower rather than going through the ballache of stripping it after going out. Later went onto the main crag and did Mainlining 1st RP.

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#22 Re: Power Club 539 5th-12th July 2020
July 13, 2020, 02:09:37 pm
Dinbren is not Verdon shocker!  :jaw:

I'm more stupid than I look  ;D

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#23 Re: Power Club 539 5th-12th July 2020
July 13, 2020, 02:20:04 pm
M: 100 press-ups. 50 ab-wheel roll-outs. Rotator cuff exercises. Chest press 40lb X8 *3sets, shoulder press 40lb X5 *3sets, lateral and front raises 20lb X6 *3sets each

T: Fingerboard down to 18mm +10lb *3sets. First time adding weight! 25 pull-ups. 25 pull-ups +40lb. Frenchies Max *3sets. Bicep curls 40lb *3sets. Lower body stretching

W: 100 press-ups. 50 ab-wheel roll-outs. Rotator cuff exercises.

T: Fingerboard down to 18mm +10lb *3sets. DBC. First time indoors since lockdown. Hado to wear a mask throughout - so hot. Bouldered for c. 1 hour doing 4 or 5 Ms which were good then tried ring muscle-ups for the first time since wrist injury, one at a time to get wrists used to it. Finished off with three sets of max front lever pulls and some bar muscle-ups

S: RMNP, Lower Chaos. First day in the Park this season. Managed to repeat Autobot V5 v quickly which was my day aim - v psyched. Moved onto Tommy's Arete V7 - mega classic. Was nervous about this as the second crux revolves around a left-hand crimp (my bad finger is on left hand). Couldn't figure out alternate beta but managed to do the normal beta. It went first time I go through the low crux, seems my PE isn't too bad after all. Possibly the best boulder I've done in the US! Finger v sore after that so didn't try anything else


S: Mt. Sniktau 13,240ft . Nice short 13er hike with pup - her first mountain! 4.5 miles with 1500 ft ascent

SA Chris

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#24 Re: Power Club 539 5th-12th July 2020
July 13, 2020, 03:37:26 pm
Previous S - drive to Portnockie, Moray Coast - walk to Findochty and back.
S - Walk to Cullen AM Cycle to Portessie in PM. later walk to Bowfiddle Rock for photos, find some great looking bouldering in two caves, undeveloped. One has a great looking hanging groovr. Wish I'd squeezed in pad.
M - Longer walk in Cullen, including Castle Hill and Harbour. Cracking weather, but windy. PM - longer bike ride in the forest, missed turnoff, got lost, ended up by busy road, eventually fetched van to retrieve kids. Knackering. Went for a look at surf, but big mess, walked and took photos instead.
T - surf day, great conditions at Sandend. Drove with kids, wife ran there. First got kids on bodyboard, they loved it. Wife arrived, I went in for pre lunch surf, got half a dozen great waves, about shoulder high on sets. Lunch, back in again, another great session, on last wave calf cramped up completely. could barely walk. Home, got kids to bed, back on for more surf. Done by about 10:45, another great session. Broken.
W - Hopeman and Primrose Bay. Lunch on beach, then walk to Primrose Bay. First had kids on Bodyboard again, then spotted them bouldering, then had session in the arch. Rock quality is great, and wind down arch made fro great conditions, but need a pad to make the most of it. More exploring in the evening, found another great arch, but might be permawet. Back to first spot i found, brushed down and cleaned problems, managed one as it got dark, about 6B.
T - Drive to Spey Bay. Great walk up river, be an amazing one to SUP on. Back to cave. After a few attempts on hanging groove it was apparent it wouldn't go without 1) some decent pads - 2 sit pads and a body board wouldn't cut it 2) a spotter or two, 3) conditions were going to shit - rock was getting damper and blacker before my eyes, so sadly sacked it off. Shame it's a great line with some cool moves. Consolation prize, got another easier one on the left after a few goes, hard moves between broad pinches, might be 6C, but hard to say in the shit conditions.
F - Family trip to Logie Head. Kids managed to toprope a mix of Bladder Wrack and Sea Link (S and VD) but rained for a bit, so I manged no climbing. Afternoon fishing - nothing doing though.

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#26 Re: Power Club 539 5th-12th July 2020
July 13, 2020, 09:29:54 pm
M -
T - 30 mins LI on 10 degree board. 16km mtb ride
W - 30 mins LI on 10 degree board. changed decent holds for flatties/slopers.Became much pumpier. Core
Th 30 mins LI on 10 degree board. Core, Y&Ts, T-I glides
Fr 30 mins LI
 S went away for long weekend - short walk
S - 10km walk
M - more walking
T - yet more walking
W - short strol - drove home/nowt
Th - 30 mins LI, 3x core circuits, light conditioining circuit. Felt like I'd been off it for an age
F - 10 x 75s laps of steep board jugs 3x core circuits
S -
AM out hunting the Big Bird. Unsuccesful
PM - opened freezer door and hear a clunk from injured finger, felt a bit of discomfort.
Stretch
S - took nipper out, set up a few top ropes and soloed a few Diff - Severes, 20 minutes LI back home. Finger ok

Feel like I'm slacking.

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#27 Re: Power Club 539 5th-12th July 2020
July 13, 2020, 09:42:08 pm
The obvious candidates:
Dinbren - short bouldery/power endurance routes. A delightful outlook. A handful of 6s, quality starts at around 6c+/7a.
Devil's Gorge - the best climbing in the Clwyd IMO but conditions can be fickle. Quality starts at 7b.
Llanymynech - half decent 6s and low 7s in the main quarry. The climbing won't blow you away but maybe worth it for the novelty of 35m+ routes. Now the bird ban is lifted, Red Wall is good in the 6c-7a+ range. Very 3D climbing and has quite an adventurous feel.

Great summary, thank you.

Further to this:
Dinbren has some steady trad in the E1/2 range.
Other good trad crags in the area (aside from Craig Arthur which is a bit bigger and more intimidating) include: Maeshafn, Pot Hole, World's End and Pinfold - all shortish and relatively minor-ish but loads of choice in the mid-grades especially well protected stuff. You can get a LOT done in a day mileage-wise.
Devil's Gorge is a really cool location but seems to make The Diamond look reliable for conditions (although it's not that far to walk in and out and divert to other crags). Maybe best at the end of a heatwave with an incoming storm front.
Llanymynech also has a bit of genuinely good trad E1/2. The Red Wall - imagine in you ate a mixture of red dust, grease, and Avon Main Wall, then regurgitated it in a particularly blocky and chaotic sort of way. You'll love it.
There's one nice E2 at Trevor and I'm sure some of the sport is fine at quiet times.

Edit: I would very happily meet you at anywhere in Clwyd Lime. Apart from Trevor, fuck that shit.

Edit 2: Not that my "meeting duncan for climbing" track record has been particularly good in the last year, but I have only had.....2 full-shutdown nausea days this year, I think.


JohnM

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#28 Re: Power Club 539 5th-12th July 2020
July 14, 2020, 09:36:43 am
Weight: 144-145lbs before a 3 day binge fest!

M - Assembled new MTB and took it for a test ride 10km with 376m drop.

T - Longer ride up the Patscherkofel mountain. A long slow grind followed by the biggest downhill I have ever done. 42km with 1767m drop.

W - Shoulder stability/recruitment, assisted one armers (12kg each side x 5), one arms hangs (30mm edge +6kg assistance each side x 5, 7 seconds), max. hangs (15mm edge +22kg x 5).

T - A short ride to a mountain hut to eat dumplings and drink beer, then over the border into Germany to drink an ice coffee.

F - Climbing at Silz. A decent summer crag as it gets no sun but was 32 degrees with rising humidity as a storm built all day. Tried a bouldery 8a. Worked out a shouldery method of a slopey press but greased off. Worked out another method dynoing past the crux but punted it. Went onto a 7a that turned out to be 8a after reading the topo wrong. Got shutdown on another unavoidable shouldery press. Went onto the actual 7a which was a grim tight v-groove that was either exfoliating or polished. Squirmed up to half height before having a sweaty meltdown and managing to retreat before the first lighting and the skies opened.

S - Girlfriends parents were visiting but it was raining all day so we mooched around drinking and eating.

S - Lovely weather. Short hike up to a hut in the Stubai Valley followed by more eating and drinking.

Easy week after Wednesday followed by an unhealthy weekend. It was nice to climb on rock again after a couple of weeks away despite failing on everything. I feel a bit directionless/goal less with climbing and the various other sports. I never seem to climb anything in July according to my logbook so will just drop the grade or try and do some more adventurous stuff. Might do a 3 day bike packing tour and maybe a 90km ultra at the start of August so will prepare a bit for that.   

Bradders

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#29 Re: Power Club 539 5th-12th July 2020
July 14, 2020, 11:06:05 am
M - Lees Bottom. Good connies. Wanted to finish off Creosote into A6, having dropped the last move a few weeks prior. Spent a while re-visiting my beta and worked out a new method which added a move but felt much more reliable. First go from the start dropped it with my hand on the last hold. It had felt so casual to that point I forgot to try and just didn't engage on it. Second go, again hit the hold, held it this time, but my wrist had popped and I just couldn't hold it to match. Did it 3rd go. Relieved. Bit spent after but worked out the moves on Goose Grease quickly and got close before I had to leave.

T - rest.

W - max hangs. Mainly two arms. 14mm felt greasy so went up to the 19mm and just benchmarked up to +38.5kg for 5s. Also a handful of one arm hangs.

T - did a few mediums on the board, then board doubles; 6 harder than flash level problems x2 each back to back. Same session as previous Saturday but swapped out half the problems for longer, slightly easier ones, and switched the other half to use smaller footholds. Better this time. Only failed twice.

F - board volume; after warm up picked 10 slightly easier than flash level problems and did them all twice each with one minute rests between reps. Failed twice. Hard session for me, don't usually pack in that much climbing in a short time frame. After did 5x 6r rings Is & 6r Ts, then 5x 20 rings push ups.

S / S - visiting family

 

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