And the difficulty is infinite but in the uk our limit of rock Will mean that there isnít anything to really challenge the future wads.
Well, it begs the question - is Mutation actually 9b then?
Quote from: gme on July 06, 2020, 07:52:05 pmAnd the difficulty is infinite but in the uk our limit of rock Will mean that there isnít anything to really challenge the future wads. Apart from climate change.
Quote from: gme on July 06, 2020, 07:47:16 pmThat isnít true. He did his hardest route in three days and has walked away from projects before. If mutation was a priority he would have done it by now. Most sessions on it are a few days between comp training. As far as I understand All his outdoor stuff fits round His comp training.I think this is downplaying the amount of time and effort Will has put in to mutation. It's by no means a shark/oak siege, but Im pretty sure he's had 10+ of sessions on it and has definitely done periods of specific small edge training in prep for it.
That isnít true. He did his hardest route in three days and has walked away from projects before. If mutation was a priority he would have done it by now. Most sessions on it are a few days between comp training. As far as I understand All his outdoor stuff fits round His comp training.
You will know more than me but all his attempts seem to be snatched between comps. My question is would he miss comps to do a hard route and at this time i dont think he would.
I still think the future stars will come from the comp scene.
Quote from: gme on July 07, 2020, 10:16:09 amYou will know more than me but all his attempts seem to be snatched between comps. My question is would he miss comps to do a hard route and at this time i dont think he would. I'm not aware of the top end comp climbers nipping out to try 9a+ routes mid training cycle? I may well be wrong about that.I think a lot of them do, seem to treat a trip to spain as a "light week" and tick a few 9a+s whilst there. I dont believe anything they do isnt planned.
Quote from Kieran on Ray Woods Insta saying Ďenjoyed the process but doesnít feel as good as doing well in a compí. Incomprehensible and mind blowing quote to me but guess sums up the above discussion.
Quote from: Wood FT on July 06, 2020, 10:36:24 pmWell, it begs the question - is Mutation actually 9b then?Think Will didn't manage a 9a in Misja Pec (not sure how many sessions), a 9a+ in Santa Linya (got rained off, not sure how many sessions), and a 9a+? proj in Margalef (not sure how many sessions) on the same trip, so it may also be a question of things "fitting" or not, although obvs you'd expect Mutation to be his style, given he likes bouldery crimping...
Its pretty apparent from everyone whoís ever been near Mutation that itís extremely fuckin nails rock hard.
Quote from: Doylo on July 07, 2020, 04:56:33 pmIts pretty apparent from everyone whoís ever been near Mutation that itís extremely fuckin nails rock hard.Does anyone know if it's change since it was first done, or was Steve just that ahead of the curve?
Discussion on UKB currently about Comp climbers being the future of outdoor climbing in the UK and some of the discussion has focussed on you as to where your main interests/priorities lie at the moment, how you balance it, whether one discipline compromises or complements the other and bearing in mind your quick success on La Capella how hard you think Mutation is.
hope this answers it all! For sure to be the best in competition it does mean just about giving up outdoors as I know many of other competitors donít climb outside at all as they donít care/like it. So if you want a shot at winning you really have to focus all your time indoor. Currently for me the Olympics is by far my biggest focus and has been for the last couple years. This meant Last year I had only a handful of days out, as with training 3 three disciplines there just isnít time. I love rock climbing and many different long term goals but currently the Olympics is the only one with time pressure added to it, it only happens every 4 years and currently itís going to change between Tokyo and Paris which means the competition I want to compete in being Tokyo will never happen again. World Cups happen every year and the rock as long as people respect it will always be there. La Capella was my dream route, perfect in terms of style, length and hold type so it suited me perfectly. This meant that it went down really fast, sticking the last crux moves was right at my limit. Whereas the 9a I tried in Slovenia was the opposite(which is why I tried it) so I found it really hard, got close but not close enough I guess. Mutation... for sure 9a+ no question there I donít think, itís actually my style. the difference between la Capella and Mutation is hold size, so I prefer much hard moves on decent sized crimps. While Mutation is not so hard moves wise but on tiny crimps, my skin is really bad I think the holds on mutation become unusable when I try from the start and Iím sweating so much by the time I get there, over the time Iíve been trying it Iíve got a lot stronger so I can now just about fix this problem by chalking up on some holds now but still I hit the top smallest crimps with wet hands(need to get stronger).
Even the best climbers of my generation Ďcame up through the compsí. We had comps in the early Ď90s dontcha know. I seem to remember Bransby being quite good. Also remember watching a teenage Ian Vickers pissing up E5s in Pembroke. Pretty sure he was quite good at comps too.
Thanks Shark, seems like a tough ask but be great if he gets the spot.
Quote from: teestub on July 08, 2020, 02:01:25 pmThanks Shark, seems like a tough ask but be great if he gets the spot.Do you know which non-qualified climbers are likely to be the ones for him to beat?
Stefano Ghisolfi, Jernej Kruder, Sascha Lehmann, Yannick Flohe, Manuel Cornu and Jan Kriz all beat him in the combined at the last World Champs and don't have places yet.
I crossed out the ones that I think can't qualify by virtue of full country quotas.
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