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Skye bouldering development (or lack thereof) (Read 1251 times)

SA Chris

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I think the boulders still boulder, it's just a question of where.

Alex-the-Alex

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Have you spoken to Rob Lovell? He is in charge of their guidebook stuff and is a Young Person who like things like  :o Sport Climbing  :o


No I havnt talked to Rob. Perhapse im being unfair. I agree though that if they intend to stay the defacto archivists of scottish climbing they need to think about including bouldering and doing a decent job of it. I dont know if they will. I also dont know if id want their new pals churning out clean soulless topos for every bouldering spot  :sick:...
I suspect this is partly because there aren't any decent modern style bouldering walls in the Highlands.
3 wise monkeys has been around a few years and is well stowed out most nights, but doesnt seem to have led to many more getting out to glen Tarbet and the likes nearby. They actually tried their own mapping thing but it kind of fizzled out too... https://blog.threewisemonkeysclimbing.com/blog/lochaber-bouldering-map

Regarding Skye I spent a day exploring around Talisker bay and remember a really good lloking boulder in the jumble to the north. probs more too. Def worth an afternoon with a pad. Also ran up to the ones above the talisker road. They were more the usual scottish fare: dripping heather bunnets, bogs and tussocks, and gaping chasms between heather. Crossed off the list. I did meet a big one eyed ginger tom who was quite friendly which was odd as the farm was a few miles away at least  :shrug:
« Last Edit: July 30, 2020, 08:02:28 pm by Alex-the-Alex »

teestub

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I suspect this is partly because there aren't any decent modern style bouldering walls in the Highlands.
3 wise monkeys has been around a few years and is well stowed out most nights, but doesnt seem to have led to many more getting out to glen Tarbet and the likes nearby.

He said decent modern bouldering walls, not 90ís throwbacks 😄

carlisle slapper

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Everyone seems to agree its woefully under staffed up north. All the rock and none of the people. Peace and quiet comes with its downsides for fast info off the ground.
I went up coruisk on a trad/caff following trip and just bouldered away the evenings and a morning on the first trip and a couple of evenings on the second trip when the grit aficionados weren't upto the slab tekkers on one of the nice blank gabbro slabs  ::) Caff has some pics in an old blog and i've popped one or two on Flickr. O'connor where art thou"  is a great 7B arete by the path on the south side near to the base of the dubh ridge.
As it was accidental bouldering whilst tradding i didn't take any pics for documenting the faces and half due to busy life/work/kids and half due to the peace and quiet in the valley have left it. Personally i don't retro claim stuff i forget to write up before it gets claimed as i think the admin is half the battle.

Get the boat in if you go as the bike access is crap. Would be worth taking the bike on Raasay though and cycling the east side. It's not too pricey and adds to the uniqueness.

Thanks for that 3WM info Alex, that impossible overhang in glen nevis looks very possible to me, especially the right arete.

Good work on the new arete at Tarvie Gaz, glad to see you got back to that. Do you reckon the wall right of the 6a would go?

Torridon has defo lost a bit of its magic at the Jumble and there has been alot of path work since my last visit. No bad thing really. The North coast 500 is whats really changing the area IMO, its turning the nicest part of the UK into a gumball style backdrop to whizz by. That and most of the people who benefit are cafe and BandB owners who moved up there for the peace and quiet so it makes them more stressed.




GazM

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He said decent modern bouldering walls, not 90ís throwbacks 😄

I wasn't going to say anything, but yeah...
I've been a few times and it's fine although a bit of a sweat box in summer, but it ain't no TCA/Works etc.

teestub

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The North coast 500 is whats really changing the area IMO, its turning the nicest part of the UK into a gumball style backdrop to whizz by. That and most of the people who benefit are cafe and BandB owners who moved up there for the peace and quiet so it makes them more stressed.

100% this,  I was pretty shocked how bad it was last time we went up, and as we were staying round on Applecross, every drive was stressful having to pull in for shed driving bellends who had no idea what a passing place was for.

Next trip to the NW will be planned to be off that route!

Alex-the-Alex

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Thanks for that 3WM info Alex, that impossible overhang in glen nevis looks very possible to me, especially the right arete.



Its a really impressive boulder. Theres another mammoth boulder back there too, but you might need your jungle gear.

He said decent modern bouldering walls, not 90ís throwbacks 😄

I wasn't going to say anything, but yeah...
I've been a few times and it's fine although a bit of a sweat box in summer, but it ain't no TCA/Works etc.

Hmm must be out of touch. Its like new tokyo compared to the Atlantis Cube.

JamieG

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most of the people who benefit are cafe and BandB owners who moved up there for the peace and quiet so it makes them more stressed.

Unfortunately I heard that that isn't even true. Locals complained that they weren't seeing much benefit since everyone just stocks up at the big supermarkets in places like Inverness. So all the locals are getting is rammed roads. Shame since the NW really is (in my highly biased opinion) the best part of the whole UK.

SA Chris

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Certainly some of the best rock, surf and scenery. Shame about the fucking midges.

GazM

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But the secret is it the weather is better outside midge season...

scragrock

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Yup midge is bad :devil-smiley:. But wait till September and they bugger off leaving cooler temps and the best bouldering and scenery in the Country :great:

« Last Edit: July 31, 2020, 08:28:15 am by scragrock »

JamieG

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To be honest, I donít think theyíre as bad in the NW as further south. Places like Loch Lomond are terrible. You just need to stick to the coast unless thereís a decent wind.

SA Chris

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But the secret is it the weather is better outside midge season...

And the surf.

duncan

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Have you spoken to Rob Lovell? He is in charge of their guidebook stuff and is a Young Person who like things like  :o Sport Climbing  :o

Iíve drawn Robís attention to this thread via a mutual friend. Or you could speak to him at Kilnsey!

 

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