Peak [Various crags][Recent new problems & routes by Crispin Waddy and Friends (Read 344 times)


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The following are a good collection of new boulder problems and some route reported to me by Crispin Waddy. Most his first ascents with a couple by others. I havenít had chance to check any of them out yet but there defo looks to be some good ones among them.
There is a topo to go with the Longshaw Quarry descriptions. I'll post this once I find a suitable place to host the image.
The descriptions below are as per Crispinís email, so ĎIí refers to Crispin etc:


Here you go. I'll try to think of names for any that are new. Obviously some will have been done before.

You'll see that a lot of these are low traverses. Partly because they didn't seem to have been done/recorded but more because I have a dodgy back so, at least when I'm on my own that's what I look for. Some of them are quite worthwhile I think, but hardly classics.  I've put an asterisk next to the better ones like I think you do. Some of these comments as just for your interest I guess. There weren't as many as I thought in the end, but I find it a pain texting long messages, and it's better as an email anyway.


The cliff that keeps on giving.

About 50 yards below the Pebble there is a boulder half in the woods.

*Stuck in a lift 6c. Traverse the horizontal break in the face in the woods from the only good foothold (on the right) to a flatty in an easy groove on the left. Slow to dry but also can be cool on a hot day. There's a tree branch in the way but it's easy to hook it around a nearby low boulder.

Big bonsai 6b . Traverse of the edge facing uphill, not using the top. Start next to the big bonsai. Make a long reach then low jamming section to start of the above. It's hard not to dab a small boulder behind you at one point.

The front very low heel hook traverse connects into this, (chalk bag practically dragging along the floor)  using the top till the bonsai is reached. Not as interesting but these three all connect together though I've not done it.

*Pangolin pie 6c+

Left of centre of the downhill face. Often boggy ground below it so needs a dry spell. Wall right of this looks worth doing but a lot harder.

left arete/edge also worth doing. About 6a.

20 yards below this boulder is a low boulder with an obvious arete that is quite easy on both sides.

Up and right of the joker block is a tilted flat boulder with a low arete pointing downhill. Starting just left of this, traverse the lip rightwards to rock over just onto the slab before the boulder on the right. 6a+

Crescent arete block.

Gibbous 6c

Start as for Cresent Slab, step up then undercut down the overlap to gain crescent groovelet and finish up this.

I think in good conditions it would be possible to connect from Crescent arete. I've done the last bit beyond the groovelet to the arete.

Longshaw Quarry

 The small quarry behind Longshaw house, easily accessed by walking towards the house across a field from The junction of owler bar rd and Stoney ridge rd. I don't know what the access situation is. Northwest facing and ends to be green in poor weather, but can be cooler than elsewhere.

The best problems are the traverse and the thin crack in the middle.

Around to the right is a slab with a crack and a thin slab without.

Staying low traverse all the way (where Al is)  would be quite tricky.

Dave Wagg, did an obvious arete, 6c+,  in the trees around behind this face.



Ben's wall low traverse 6c  Start on the right and use chicken heads to get onto the original traverse and reverse it.

*The beginning of the end 6b. The arete below the end of the affair up to the break where the gear is and step off right. Don't use the crack in the gulley on the right. Probably best avoided if anyone is on the route.

*Perfect Vision E35c. With Donie O'Sullivan Jan 8 2020

Very little new climbing but a nicely sustained route that takes in the beautiful top part of Moon Crack and avoids the thuggery.

Start up Sorrell's sorrow till an obvious traverse across Moon Madness gives access to Moon crack just after its crux. Follow to the top.


*A horse to water E35c  with Dave Wagg, 2013 I think.

Climb the arete between the two starts of Eye of faith. This Arete is *f6a or so and worth doing. Follow EOFs diagonal crack to the top. where that route steps right, then move slightly left, and up breaks to the top.   

Also did a good f6a slab just left of NMC crack at Gardoms the other day, I don't think it's the start of Twilights last gleaming and can't find it mentioned anywhere. Very hard if you're short though as the first holds are at full stretch.



The Knowledge E3 5c (could be E4 for the Edge lane section? )

Follow Edge Lane to the shotholes. Traverse left into Great west Road and . step into a horizontal borehole then left onto the arete and climb this on its left side, to the top. It's possible to reach into Great West road and arrange gear near the peg. Or just finish up great west road. The top is a fair bit easier than GWR but bolder, and the ropes run on the arete. With Andy Gardiner   30/06/2020


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