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Power Club 538 29th June - 5th July 2020 (Read 1467 times)

tomtom

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Power Club 538 29th June - 5th July 2020
July 05, 2020, 03:49:38 pm
Mon: Rest

Tu: Board day. Good session - did new sidepulls problem on both sides. Make a (kind of) replica of the Press :)

We: 1 arm day. Warm up - then 4 sets with zero assist. Evening - post dinner, so at least an extra 1.5kg on the body weight. So another PB I recon... unexpected.

Th: Absolutely shattered. Went out late eve to Helsby - climbing really shit. Somehow managed to do a bit better on Ron B's.

Fri: Tired - stressful day (see end)

Sat: Felt awful all day. Was supposed to look after the toddler all day and give MrsTT a day off but had a terrible migraine/headache all day. It passed by the evening and I did an alright ish one arm session.

Sun: Really tired still... had the opportunity to go out in the afternoon - but decided I didnt feel like travelling, so had a board session. Should have gone out - as I was on fire! Did every problem I've set on the board - and a new one (both sides).

Hard week. Made offer on a house that we really really wanted - accepted - but had to get builders in to look at issues with it (roof/cellar) that made things all quite stressful.

Nibile

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Power Club

Mon - 1' hang on BM big rungs x5; static holds 2' x5. Tired. Torrid.
Tue - rest.
Wed - weigths, static/dynamic. Tired. Torrid.
Thu - 18' of static holds.
Fri - rest.
Sat - weights, pull up finisher.
Sun - ring finisher, 18' of static holds.

Alright week. Knee swollen, can't climb, can't ride, can't lift, boooo.

tomtom

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Knee swollen, can't climb, can't ride, can't lift, boooo.

:(

shark

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11.5-6 Average  160.3 (down 1.0lbs)

M.

T. Not meant to be raining but it was. FB warm up. Decided there was a risk Anston might be soggy so headed to the Tor. Great conditions. Had another session on Rattle and Hump. Best go tickling the edge on the block. Considering itís such a basic problem ended up with a few beta improvements - sorted out a foothold to put right foot on for lurch and which shoe worked best on it (already forgotten) and also to turn the RH from a drag into a crimp before making the lurch. Tommy was robbed on Powerband -twice falling off at the pillar coming in with his RH (serves him right for using lank method). Had a terse exchange with a vanlifer whoís been taking the piss setting up at home on and off at the far end over the last few months. Did some pulls on bachar ladder when got home.

Eve. Resumed fingerboarding after a week off from it. Ergo edge Max weighted deadhangs half crimp and drag equalling scores from a week ago. Added some speed pulls for recruitment at the end which I felt quite good on. Weights. 3 sets of overhead press, standing deadlifts and front squat. 10 pull-ups to finish

W. Eve. Systems board. Boom! Did my project hardest version of the throw move. Felt easy when I did it but couldnít repeat the feat. Other benchmarks and managed to do the mirrored crusher crimp problem back to back

T.

F. AM Drizzly. FB warm up. Tor with Tom to meet Connors and Ben S. Good conditions. No overnight vans. Deep joy. Different vibe/dynamic without them. Tommy got Powerband first attempt - see vid below. Three tie-ins on the start of Revelations. Much stronger on the slot/pocket now. Both of us struggling to get our leg up into the heel toe. Really enjoyed trying to work it out though. More hip flexibility required? Different left foot? Hold the slot differently? Etc. Then went on the first of the new moves on Bens without and first couple of attempts overshot the crimp! Third go latched it and did the next hard move. Several attempts at the cross through before getting it. So that was all the hard new moves done again.

Eve. Ergo edge max hangs Half crimp and drag. Speed pulls to finish. Still yet to best the January outlier max hang PB but building a decent base just shy of it

S

S AM Anston Wave Area with Ben (Tom had a sore back). Gusty, dry, deserted. Moose showed up sporting his rockstar hairstyle.Fine Art still desperate. Failing to get pocket so tried without again. No go. No progress, no learning. Ben rattled off Colt then got Fine Art second go (see below). Had a few goes on Colt. More my bag but crimp in roof was wearing a hole in my finger. Exhausted when got back. Had plans to a weights and fingerboard session but drank lots of fizz instead

Generally positive week including non-climbing stuff. Finger training working. Blown away to do my board throw move project which is the hardest single strength/power move Iíve done. Bit glum after spanking on Fine Art and battered from FB shitstorm regarding van squatters at the Tor.








« Last Edit: July 05, 2020, 11:07:48 pm by shark »

Will Hunt

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M - absolutely ruined from DOMS from a day's bouldering.

T - still a wreck. Went to Brimham in the evening and did a few VSs.

W - very amusing read of the Peak District sport climbing Facebook group, watching the Peakies slag each other off. Some of Simon's comments were savage.

T - Kilnsey in the evening. First look at 50 for 5 with Nick. Did all the moves ok but top crux feels like it will be very hard on the link. Came down and belayed Nick a bit. Got some beta for the top and went up again. Got to the crux but was a bit tired so sat on the rope for a bit then tried the new beta which should work ok. Feels like it'll be a hard one to put together. Next time will figure out the start a bit more so hopefully won't be pumped by the crux.

S - made a start on sketching the topo lines for Gigg South. A bit bleak.

Coops_13

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Two weeks here...

M-F: Repeat of previous weeks with introduction of some hanging on 14mm edges.

S - this S(un): Roadtrip up to Yellowstone, Grand Teton then over to SLC and Moab area. Averaged 15 - 22k steps each day. Took the fingerboard but didn't do any... Managed two boulders and a lot of burgers, maccies and beer.

W: Jenny Lake, Wyoming. Had 30 mins on Red Cross Rock in Grand Teton National Park. Warmed up then flashed Classic Overhang V4, a classic Gill problem.


S: Big Bend, Utah. Persuaded the missus to let me try a boulder for an hour before the drive home. Went to get on Circus Trick V5 but pretty high (no pads) and v greasy. Found Washed Up, a slopey cool-looking V4 to do. V hot, 28C at 8am but managed to get up it!

JohnM

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Weight: 147lbs

M: Shoulder recruitment, pull ups, assisted one arm pull ups. Max. hangs (15mm edge 1 x 10kg, 1 x 15kg, 5 x 20kg).

T: Trail running 12km with 1046m height gain.

W: Neil Gresham finger board endurance session (4 sets 12kg assistance).

T: Trail run 7km 323m height gain.

F: Max. hangs. Assisted one arm (30mm edge 4kg assistance for right arm 6kg for left x 5), two arm (15mm edge 1 x 10kg, 1 x 15kg, 5 x 20kg).

S: Big day in the mountains starting at 2am. 53km with 5186m height gain.

S: Trail run 15km with 888m height gain.

A pretty solid week. After a week off climbing the week before, I wanted to have a few training sessions to get going again. These were generally pretty good quality and I felt the benefit of the week off. The Neil Gresham routine still feels brutal but I complete it and recover quicker now so I need to reduce the weight assistance and also increase the weight for my max. hangs. Having said that I am still using the less than ideal free hanging portable fingerboard setup from lockdown. I now have most of the stuff I need to setup a static removable door frame board with a Beastmaker 2000 and Lattice rung combo. Once that is up I will re-calibrate everything. I wanted to get out on rock this week but that never happened and I did too much trail running. Need to knock that on the head for a couple of weeks as my left knee is getting more and more gammy. 

duncan

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Simon, you were doing the right thing addressing the van squatting, it could very easily have had major repercussions. Itís tricky to get the tone right and, whatever you say, someone will feel upset. You should ask habrich about the Squamish vanlifers...

On a happier note, Tommy looks like heís got plenty in reserve on Poweband.

M - Shoulder strength: lock-offs, handstands, side-planks.
T - Fingerboard finger rehab.: 10s hangs.
W - Shoulder strength. Weighted pull-ups: 95kg load.
T - Shoulder strength.
F - Drove to Portland (Battleship) with fellow bubble member Sean. 4-5 other teams on the same crag, usually it is deserted midweek. Lovely breezy day by the sea until the rain arrived precisely as scheduled at 5.30.  Tied-in 9 times, a mix of onsights and grey-points, 6a-6b+.  Not climbing very smoothly: usually Iím good at planning 3-4 moves ahead onsighting but I sometimes found myself in the middle of a completely different sequence to the original intention with no idea of how it had happened. This will come back with practice.
S - Battered. Shoulder strength.
S - Still tired. 10km stroll around the Chilterns with the family.

Work and extended families are sources of considerable stress but climbing and being outside have been some antidote. A good day on Friday, a similar set of routes to the last time I climbed at Battleship 9 years ago, the final training day before doing the Comici on the Cima Grande. Clearly fingerboards and pull-ups donít completely replicate climbing as I still feel battered and couldn't complete a fingerboard set this morning.

Plan: climb rock 1-2 a week, start trying a bit harder.

HarryBD

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Been AWOL for a bit, lost the mojo while furloughed and stood on a belt buckle which took running off the table for a couple of weeks. Back now and have had some great evenings out - trad at Guisecliff was brilliant and Comet Wall might be the best route I've done. Work much more settled after worrying about redundancy and a change to our contracts but not at risk of either of those now happily.

M - 3.5M run

T - Shipley Glen, got rained on so just did a load of traversing where it was dry

W - 5M run (decided to get out quite late and glad I did)

T - Almscliff, was raining but W/NW faces were dry, did Overhanging Groove and felt really good on it. Good confidence boost.

F - 11M run on Barden Moor. Got soaked to the skin but had an absolute blast.

S - Up to the Lakes and a walk onto Pavey and camped. Wet and windy and not much in the way of views.

S - Middlefell buttress, simul climbed. Really enjoyed the continuous progress on rock. Skies were clearer today and had a bit more of a panorama with a moody Bowfell. Went up onto Harrison Stickle via a little scramble. Pint in NDG once down. Great weekend.

shark

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Simon, you were doing the right thing addressing the van squatting, it could very easily have had major repercussions. Itís tricky to get the tone right and, whatever you say, someone will feel upset. You should ask habrich about the Squamish vanlifers...

Thanks Duncan, previous less antsy threads had zero effect. My annoyance had been building and I was particularly angry that the guy had taken up all the far bay with his van and had mounted his wheels on blocks as if to say Iím living here for the duration which of course he was.

They had been parked there previously for days on end and I think parked and climbed there during lockdown - though at least didnít post videos of themselves on their sends on social media like Darren Attew.

A precedent was setting in that nobody was going to do anything material about it epitomised by the guy telling me that pissed off people were just going to have to ďdeal with itĒ.

If I had overnighted in a car or van and messed up and annoyed someone Iíd show contrition and move on but judging by some of the posts by vanlifers thatís not the prevailing attitude to say the least. The fact that they are climbers and prepared to piss off other climbers and jeopardise access for wanting of parking somewhere else a couple of miles away is breath taking.

Donít think itís a coincidence that the increased incidence of overnighting (or should I say overweeking or overmonthing) was connected to being able to get internet reception down there over the last 12 months.

There are plenty of other discreet options to park within a couple of mile radius. So selfish to risk angering locals, walkers and anglers well as clog up limited parking which leads to further crap parking on the verges (despite it being a clearway). Then thereís the further issue of human waste.




Bradders

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M - had a big bout of fatigue early afternoon. Coffee and cake helped, then went on the board. Mixed session. 90 mins after warm up. Did a big circuit of 15 or so medium-hard problems. Felt good on the more thuggy, squeezy ones and did a harder one that had previously taken 3 sessions 1st go, but struggled on the more basic launching to edges type ones.

T - Kilnsey sport in the evening. WYSIWYG wet so went on 50 for 5 as my mate was keen. Only tied in twice, both times got to the section around the 5th bolt from the ground but no further. Scared. Had to run away from the midges unfortunately.

W - stretching

T - back to Kilnsey. Bouldered to warm up then spent maybe an hour on Launch Control. Greasy connies. Fully ejected off a couple of times. Tried hard at least but didn't get through the crux once. Will arrived so went back on 50 for 5. 3 tie ins. Linked to after the first crux and worked out a good rest position by the 5th bolt before you go up to the big ledge, but couldn't do the last move! Felt super bunched and was still really scared despite not even being above the bolt. Tried it a couple of times and unfortunately 2nd or 3rd time something went ping in my knee so came down. Last time up just taking clips out and was too tired to make any impression.

F - stretching in the evening

S - had planned to go to Kilnsey again but heard it was soaked. Probably a good thing as I actually did my training... warm up on the board then fingerboard. Two arm max hangs first, worked up gradually to doing 10s +28kg on the low BM2k edges. Given I currently weigh 8kg more than I did in January, that's a new PB (previous best was +30.5kg @ 68kg bodyweight). Anyway, then did a few one arm hangs; again, pretty good. Best did 10s -15kg on a 19mm edge.

Afterwards went on the board again. Did 6 of my mediums to re-warm up, then did a boulder doubles session, 6 medium problems doing each twice back to back, 4 mins rest between. Failed on about half of them in 2nd rep. Finished off doing 6x 6r Is & 6r Ts on the TRX, followed by 5x 20 push ups on the TRX.

S - 4km run, 20 mins. Knee thankfully seems fine now. Got away with it a bit as it was quite painful Friday morning.

Decent week. Won't be rushing back on 50 for 5, much harder at the top than I'd hoped and therefore a bit much for my puny level of endurance. Need to try and do some easier volume I think.

Will Hunt

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Your endurance probably isn't as bad as you think, Nick. If you'd been on the bouldering for over an hour then that would have had an impact. I think more experienced sport climbers than us also have a better feeling for how pumped they are and how many more moves that translates to.

And if you've never been on a rope before then finding 50 for 5 a bit wiggy isn't surprising. You look down from the top bolt and it's a clear 20-something metres to the ground. It feels very exposed (more so than most routes I've been on). If you have little experience of that sort of thing and your brain doesn't kick up a fuss about it then something is probably wrong! Sitting on the rope, and taking some little slumps onto it can help you to start building trust in the system.

Also worth bearing in mind that you've chucked yourself straight into the deep end of sport climbing. Kilnsey can be a pretty intimidating venue, and multi-session projects might seem like the norm if you're plugged into UKB and Instagram, but most people serve at least some apprenticeship of onsighting routes or visiting less intimidating crags. A lot of Giggleswick South is a bit crap, but Sector Limelight at the far end of the main crag has very good quality rock and a good spread of grades (some easy stuff to warm up and a really excellent looking 7a+ and a high-in-the-grade bouldery 7b). Might be worth a look.

spidermonkey09

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What Will said, with the addition that 50-5 is completely nails.

moose

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What Will said, with the addition that 50-5 is completely nails.

I've always found both 50/5 and Sticky Wicket nails.  I reckon I'd have an easier time deja-vu-flashing Dominatrix, New Dawn, or the Ashes than either of them.

Bradders

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Thanks guys, good advice.

I'm definitely keen to do lots of easier things to build up volume and time on a rope, focus on Kilnsey for first couple of weeks has been more a function of the weather than anything else.

JohnM

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Weight: 147lbs

M: Shoulder recruitment, pull ups, assisted one arm pull ups. Max. hangs (15mm edge 1 x 10kg, 1 x 15kg, 5 x 20kg).

T: Trail running 12km with 1046m height gain.

W: Neil Gresham finger board endurance session (4 sets 12kg assistance).

T: Trail run 7km 323m height gain.

F: Max. hangs. Assisted one arm (30mm edge 4kg assistance for right arm 6kg for left x 5), two arm (15mm edge 1 x 10kg, 1 x 15kg, 5 x 20kg).

S: Big day in the mountains starting at 2am. 53km with 5186m height gain.

S: Trail run 15km with 888m height gain.

A pretty solid week. After a week off climbing the week before, I wanted to have a few training sessions to get going again. These were generally pretty good quality and I felt the benefit of the week off. The Neil Gresham routine still feels brutal but I complete it and recover quicker now so I need to reduce the weight assistance and also increase the weight for my max. hangs. Having said that I am still using the less than ideal free hanging portable fingerboard setup from lockdown. I now have most of the stuff I need to setup a static removable door frame board with a Beastmaker 2000 and Lattice rung combo. Once that is up I will re-calibrate everything. I wanted to get out on rock this week but that never happened and I did too much trail running. Need to knock that on the head for a couple of weeks as my left knee is getting more and more gammy.

Couldn't work out how to edit my previous post but forgot to add:

Thursday AM: First indoor bouldering session since March. Wasn't as bad as I had feared despite being very hot and humid in there. Lacked core and shoulders after the Gresham session the day before but still managed to get up a few things but struggled on steep stuff and/or with hard locks. These kids from La Reunion that have been in the climbing news recently (Max Bertone (13) who flashed 8b+ and his sister Oriane (15) who climbed 8c+) were there. They were impressive to watch and could move very well and also match nearly all the holds!

teestub

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Simon, you were doing the right thing addressing the van squatting, it could very easily have had major repercussions. Itís tricky to get the tone right and, whatever you say, someone will feel upset. You should ask habrich about the Squamish vanlifers...


Somewhat different situation than the Tor, Iím sure Habrich is concerned about the affect on his property value 🙄

Nutty

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Mon: Board session. 10 warm-up problems then trying a few new problems. Fingers feel strong.

Tues:  Fingerboard and misc. exercises. 5 x 20 sec assisted one-arm hangs @ 80% bodyweight on each arm, 20mm edge. Pinky mono lifts.

Wed: Stretching.

Thurs: Board session. Ancap-style session. 8 reps of a 12-13 move problem with 1:30 rest. Had tweaked the problem I use for this, using a worse hold at one point towards the end (9th hand move) but realised after the first three reps that this was slightly too hard now so reverted to the old version for the last 5 reps. Good session though.

Fri: Rest

Sat: Rest

Sun: Board session. 10 warm-up problems than trying the same problems as Monday. Some slight progress, nearly catching the next hold a couple of times. Turned one of the wide pinches I'd taken off the board into a pinch block so I can train pinches away from the board.

Good week. The rest week last week paid off as most the niggles have cleared up. Fingers feel strong, but lacking a bit of pop at the moment.

shark

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Somewhat different situation than the Tor, Iím sure Habrich is concerned about the affect on his property value 🙄

Pretty shitty comment bearing in mind the time and effort he has put in as Chair of the Smoke Bluffs Park and Squamish Access Committee

mr chaz

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Goals: i) End lockdown fitter ii) Maintain finger strength iii) go climbing ffs

M.
T. Fingerboard - max 2 arm hangs
W.
T. Fingerboard - max 2 arm hangs
F.
S.
S.

Shite!

gollum

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M - Weather proper grim so end up doing nothing except domestic stuff.

T - Forecast looks okay so head to Caley. Certainly at 9 oíclock, the forecast is wrong. Potter about looking for dry things and checking out things for the future. Warm up on Sugar loaf traverse and then go up and do the undercuts start to the Roof of the World, which goes pretty quickly, before heading home.

W -10k run in the morning.
Afternoon session up at Almscliffe. Playing with eliminates around Morells, Low Man areas.

T - 10k on the treadmill but rubbish weather.

F - Forecast looks like we may get a couple of hours but when I get up, itís rubbish and stays that way. 10k.

S + S - Away with Mrs B in the van.

Rain stopped play a lot this week

 

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