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Power Club 539 5th-12th July 2020 (Read 5027 times)

teestub

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nai

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#26 Re: Power Club 539 5th-12th July 2020
July 13, 2020, 09:29:54 pm
M -
T - 30 mins LI on 10 degree board. 16km mtb ride
W - 30 mins LI on 10 degree board. changed decent holds for flatties/slopers.Became much pumpier. Core
Th 30 mins LI on 10 degree board. Core, Y&Ts, T-I glides
Fr 30 mins LI
 S went away for long weekend - short walk
S - 10km walk
M - more walking
T - yet more walking
W - short strol - drove home/nowt
Th - 30 mins LI, 3x core circuits, light conditioining circuit. Felt like I'd been off it for an age
F - 10 x 75s laps of steep board jugs 3x core circuits
S -
AM out hunting the Big Bird. Unsuccesful
PM - opened freezer door and hear a clunk from injured finger, felt a bit of discomfort.
Stretch
S - took nipper out, set up a few top ropes and soloed a few Diff - Severes, 20 minutes LI back home. Finger ok

Feel like I'm slacking.

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#27 Re: Power Club 539 5th-12th July 2020
July 13, 2020, 09:42:08 pm
The obvious candidates:
Dinbren - short bouldery/power endurance routes. A delightful outlook. A handful of 6s, quality starts at around 6c+/7a.
Devil's Gorge - the best climbing in the Clwyd IMO but conditions can be fickle. Quality starts at 7b.
Llanymynech - half decent 6s and low 7s in the main quarry. The climbing won't blow you away but maybe worth it for the novelty of 35m+ routes. Now the bird ban is lifted, Red Wall is good in the 6c-7a+ range. Very 3D climbing and has quite an adventurous feel.

Great summary, thank you.

Further to this:
Dinbren has some steady trad in the E1/2 range.
Other good trad crags in the area (aside from Craig Arthur which is a bit bigger and more intimidating) include: Maeshafn, Pot Hole, World's End and Pinfold - all shortish and relatively minor-ish but loads of choice in the mid-grades especially well protected stuff. You can get a LOT done in a day mileage-wise.
Devil's Gorge is a really cool location but seems to make The Diamond look reliable for conditions (although it's not that far to walk in and out and divert to other crags). Maybe best at the end of a heatwave with an incoming storm front.
Llanymynech also has a bit of genuinely good trad E1/2. The Red Wall - imagine in you ate a mixture of red dust, grease, and Avon Main Wall, then regurgitated it in a particularly blocky and chaotic sort of way. You'll love it.
There's one nice E2 at Trevor and I'm sure some of the sport is fine at quiet times.

Edit: I would very happily meet you at anywhere in Clwyd Lime. Apart from Trevor, fuck that shit.

Edit 2: Not that my "meeting duncan for climbing" track record has been particularly good in the last year, but I have only had.....2 full-shutdown nausea days this year, I think.


JohnM

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#28 Re: Power Club 539 5th-12th July 2020
July 14, 2020, 09:36:43 am
Weight: 144-145lbs before a 3 day binge fest!

M - Assembled new MTB and took it for a test ride 10km with 376m drop.

T - Longer ride up the Patscherkofel mountain. A long slow grind followed by the biggest downhill I have ever done. 42km with 1767m drop.

W - Shoulder stability/recruitment, assisted one armers (12kg each side x 5), one arms hangs (30mm edge +6kg assistance each side x 5, 7 seconds), max. hangs (15mm edge +22kg x 5).

T - A short ride to a mountain hut to eat dumplings and drink beer, then over the border into Germany to drink an ice coffee.

F - Climbing at Silz. A decent summer crag as it gets no sun but was 32 degrees with rising humidity as a storm built all day. Tried a bouldery 8a. Worked out a shouldery method of a slopey press but greased off. Worked out another method dynoing past the crux but punted it. Went onto a 7a that turned out to be 8a after reading the topo wrong. Got shutdown on another unavoidable shouldery press. Went onto the actual 7a which was a grim tight v-groove that was either exfoliating or polished. Squirmed up to half height before having a sweaty meltdown and managing to retreat before the first lighting and the skies opened.

S - Girlfriends parents were visiting but it was raining all day so we mooched around drinking and eating.

S - Lovely weather. Short hike up to a hut in the Stubai Valley followed by more eating and drinking.

Easy week after Wednesday followed by an unhealthy weekend. It was nice to climb on rock again after a couple of weeks away despite failing on everything. I feel a bit directionless/goal less with climbing and the various other sports. I never seem to climb anything in July according to my logbook so will just drop the grade or try and do some more adventurous stuff. Might do a 3 day bike packing tour and maybe a 90km ultra at the start of August so will prepare a bit for that.   

Bradders

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#29 Re: Power Club 539 5th-12th July 2020
July 14, 2020, 11:06:05 am
M - Lees Bottom. Good connies. Wanted to finish off Creosote into A6, having dropped the last move a few weeks prior. Spent a while re-visiting my beta and worked out a new method which added a move but felt much more reliable. First go from the start dropped it with my hand on the last hold. It had felt so casual to that point I forgot to try and just didn't engage on it. Second go, again hit the hold, held it this time, but my wrist had popped and I just couldn't hold it to match. Did it 3rd go. Relieved. Bit spent after but worked out the moves on Goose Grease quickly and got close before I had to leave.

T - rest.

W - max hangs. Mainly two arms. 14mm felt greasy so went up to the 19mm and just benchmarked up to +38.5kg for 5s. Also a handful of one arm hangs.

T - did a few mediums on the board, then board doubles; 6 harder than flash level problems x2 each back to back. Same session as previous Saturday but swapped out half the problems for longer, slightly easier ones, and switched the other half to use smaller footholds. Better this time. Only failed twice.

F - board volume; after warm up picked 10 slightly easier than flash level problems and did them all twice each with one minute rests between reps. Failed twice. Hard session for me, don't usually pack in that much climbing in a short time frame. After did 5x 6r rings Is & 6r Ts, then 5x 20 rings push ups.

S / S - visiting family

 

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