[Fiend]

Just under two month's time, fingers crossed (as much as lockdown-fingerboarding-derived arthiritis will allow.....)

https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/calendar

https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/news/369-climbing-again-an-adapted-world-cup

On August 21 and 22 sport climbing will return.

In accordance with the current conditions and the decision of the French authorities, the Fédération Française de la Montagne et de l’Escalade and the city of Briançon are ready to host an international event.

Since travel restrictions might not allow the participation of athletes belonging to some areas of the world, no points will be attributed, including World Ranking and World Cup 2020 Ranking. No seasonal trophy will be assigned at the end of the year.

If they can pull this off, great on them. Even with a reduced field it will be exciting to see comps again

[Muenchener]

I wonder if the IFSC's attempt to hijack the meaning of the term "sport climbing" will ever cease to piss me off. I hope not.

[Fiend]

Well, it IS climbing as sport. Climbing is not a sport, sport climbing is not a sport, but indoor competitions are the sport of climbing 

[jwi]

[Muenchener]

... although the difference between "Sportklettern" and "Alpinklettern" in German is different from "sport climbing" and "trad climbing" in English.

I'm pretty sure for example that gear protected cracks in the Pfalz would still be "Sportklettern"

[GraemeA]

I wonder if the IFSC's attempt to hijack the meaning of the term "sport climbing" will ever cease to piss me off. I hope not.

If possible you need an abbreviation that no one else has, eg International Climbing Federation was already taken.

Plus there was the consideration of not pouring oil onto the fire with the UIAA back in 2007 by claiming to be the International Climbing Federation.

[Fiend]

Despite a lack of hype (?) it's actually happening: Lead Semis right now:

 

[Duma]

Just came on to post this - will be interesting to see how the big guns fare after such a long break

[jwi]

The knee bar!

[Duma]

I thought knee pads weren't allowed? Or maybe just in boulder?

[jwi]

Didn't already Adam Ondra use one in a previous comp?

And Rishat Khaibullin in tenth place! Not bad for a speed climber

[Duma]

Yeah his qualifying was great too.

Fair enough re kneepads, makes the ban on barefoot seem harsh though.

Shame the womens route was so cruxy, hopefully finalists won't be decided on appeal.

[finbarrr]

anyone know why Ondra was put back?

oh, just rechecked, the results have been updated, Ondra now back in the lead

[mde]

anyone know why Ondra was put back?

I think it looked like he stepped on a bolt when he was at hold 31, see https://youtu.be/GjrIoztmA-o?t=8977

[Fiend]

Interesting, hadn't noticed that, on the slo-mo you can see a clear gap between the shadow of his shoe and the bolt at least.

Anyway, great contest, good semis, great finals, good route-setting - both looked really cool climbing - and a perfect spread of finalists (and even learning some new intricacy re: how the women's winner won). Nice to have them back and even if comps are sporadic this year, this has been a great show.

[andy popp]

even learning some new intricacy re: how the women's winner won

Given they spend the whole contest talking about which hold someone has reached I thought it was weird Rogora could win from a lower hold, even if she did clip the chain, but everyone seemed to understand those were the rules.

Ondra looked pretty superior.

[IanP]

even learning some new intricacy re: how the women's winner won

Given they spend the whole contest talking about which hold someone has reached I thought it was weird Rogora could win from a lower hold, even if she did clip the chain, but everyone seemed to understand those were the rules.

Ondra looked pretty superior.

Ondra did look strongest for whole 2 days.  Setters did a great job and must have been well pleased - best climber in the world gets to top at the absolute limit (on instagram said he felt like he nearly fell off clipping at top!)

[Fiend]

Indeed! We had to rewind that bit as it didn't get a replay.

Andy - that shocked me too, but thems the rules apparently. I was a bit disappointed as it was still quite a move to the final hold that might not have suited her style....I think 2nd place is a morally superior top

[galpinos]

Does anyone know why there were no Brits there?

[remus]

Does anyone know why there were no Brits there?

I might be totally mis-remembering this, but I think the BMC may have decided that it was too risky to send anyone to comps this year?

[Fiend]

Too busy crushing 90s testpieces at LPT?

[remus]

Don't know if the graphics are a new thing for Briancon but they're definitely a nice touch, having each climbers high point actually marked on the route makes it super obvious where everyone got too.

[abarro81]

Does anyone know why there were no Brits there?

I heard a rumour that it was because they didn't think anyone was prepared for the comps. If true, this is a lame as fuck reason, since Molly has just had the best run of form of any British female sport climber ever. I could imagine a reluctance to send people to France against FCO advice, but that's somewhat defunct when people like Molly, Alex and Billy were already out in France...

[Muenchener]

FCO advice didn't stop the GB junior ski team members I saw a couple of weeks ago in Austria either.

[gme]

Does anyone know why there were no Brits there?

I heard a rumour that it was because they didn't think anyone was prepared for the comps. If true, this is a lame as fuck reason, since Molly has just had the best run of form of any British female sport climber ever. I could imagine a reluctance to send people to France against FCO advice, but that's somewhat defunct when people like Molly, Alex and Billy were already out in France...

I was amazed molly didn’t compete as it appears she was there. Can’t be expensive to enter surely and doesn’t appear that she is out of shape. Missed opportunity perhaps.