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[Peak][Smallfield Roof][Link-ups x 2][7A+] (Read 1929 times)

Stabbsy

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Couple of Smallfield link-ups that have probably been done before, but don't appear to be on Peak Bouldering. King lines they certainly aren't, but they both climb quite well and it gave me something "new" to do.

Dancing Man Indirect 7A+ - Follow Dancing Man LH to the good holds on the lip, then traverse back right along Smallfield Lip to the Dancing Man finish. Not as contrived as it sounds and reasonably sustained.

Dancing Man Super Indirect 7A+ - Start as for Dancing Man (i.e., get the roof flake with your left hand) and then reverse Boning Technology to the roof flake on Lager Lout then follow Smallfield Lip to finish as for (you've guessed it!) Dancing Man.

Grades are a guess as a lot of the moves at Smallfield feel quite morpho. They both feel easier than Dancing Technology (roof traverse into Dancing Man), but I find the move on Dancing Man harder than the one on the LH so who knows.

Given they're not the greatest lines, I won't be that disappointed when the retro claims start.

Stabbsy

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Another one to add to the list. Again, not recorded on Peak Bouldering or UKC, but a fairly obvious line so quite possible it's been done before.

PiL 7A/+ - The lip reverse. Start up Jive Arete and then follow the obvious break leftwards as far as you can, topping out at a gap in the heather cornice where the break widens. I eliminated the block under the roof at the left hand end (the one you use to start Lager Lout/Smallfield Lip) as it seemed more logical to keep your feet on the lip at that point.

Climbs quite differently to Smallfield Lip in that the easiest sequence for me was to lead with my feet and then change direction about halfway across. I thought it was going to be significantly harder than the L-R traverse when I tried it last week, but did it first go today so might similar. Not at all morpho, unlike most of the Smallfield problems.

tonym

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Not retro-claiming or anything like that, but flagging that Smallfield Roof has been well played on. It has been my nearest bouldering for many years, and I had a Minus10-like obsession with the place for training after finding it on p53 of PD Bouldering. I was doing a lot of bouldering in 2016 and did all the lines, eliminates and link-ups I could imagine in 2016, mainly based on the lines in the book, up to 7Bish. In 2018, when I did a lot more sport-climbing, I used it for endurance training, including making up problems that blended in traversing L or R along the lip to make them longer. I must have visited at least 30 times during that period and was always messing about setting myself new challenges. I'd be surprised if you found an amenable sequence on that block that hadn't been done before, unless it was >7B+. Tony
(there were some harder eliminate projects, adding moves into the ceiling that I couldn't do)

Bonjoy

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I always though a left to right crossing the whole roof without the lip or backwall would be a good and really hard roof sequence.

tonym

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Yep. That's the natural gap in the lines established.
I rapidly discovered that it was well beyond any ability I would ever be able to muster.

 

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