Bench Buttress, Youlgreave
An obvious buttress in a lovely open location by a stream and footbridge. Park in Alport and walk in as for Rheinstor but continue along the flat track until the buttress appears. Alternatively a shorter approach is from Youlgreave, from which the buttress is visible, but parking here is trickier and more likely to annoy the residents. I have had nothing but friendliness from the locals but apparently there is something rare near the top of the crag so donít go questing through the choss. Itís probably worth avoiding on nice weekends as youíll be dabbing pensioners all the way along the middle section.
The rock quality isnít up to the standards of rheinstor but the climbing is more pleasant.
There are about a dozen up problems from 4ish to 7aish the best of which Iíve listed below, but the rock deteriorates with height so I finished them all at the first line of grassy breaks at about 10-12 feet. The buttress has a range of styles from slabby/vertical to roof and even a finger crack but the traverses are the main event, and cover a bit of everything.
sit start the stepped flake line heading rightwards to finish with hands above the niche formed by the opposing flakes
Sit start just left of the bench and head straight up to the finish of Press or stay right of the flakes for a harder finish
Mr Gee, 7aish (maybe harder?)
The centre of the roof. Start above the bench. Left hand on the back wall, right hand on the first rail in the roof (above the centre, right of the bench). Bust out a big move to the big twin flatties and continue straight up to finish carefully on a black chert lump about 4 feet above the flatties.
Sit start the finger crack just right of the bench.
The right to left traverse, starting on the ledges at the far right, crossing the crimpy wall to a crux over the right side of the bench, passing the large twin flatties in the centre of the roof and pushing on to reverse Press and finish on the grassy ledges at the far left.
The left to right traverse, starting at the grassy ledges, passing an easier crux in the roof and finishing on ledges to the right of the vertical wall.