[Will Hunt]

Alcove Buttress has been trad and sport climbed on for years. Rob Fenton put in a few sessions and did quite a few things in March 2015. He showed me Bull Rider (https://www.instagram.com/p/BzbsdknDIsw/) which I thought was mega. Since then Sam Lawson has added a couple of lines and even our own Stubbs has been up and fondled the choss.

Now there's a guide. Enjoy.

https://unknownstones.com/attermire-alcove-buttress/

[teestub]

Worth pointing out that there’s currently a v loose big flake on Bull Rider. Not sure this will be repairable without some serious effort so may be better to let gravity do its work.

Probably a venue best considered as some ok climbing at the end of a nice walk!

[Will Hunt]

Should have mentioned that I think Sam is going to go and stabilise some holds. When I did Bull Rider I didn't notice anything remotely loose for hands, though there was a foothold that was chossy (but there were plenty of options). So something must have loosened since then.

Before Tim puts everyone off going it's worth bearing in mind that (with respect) he normally has ridiculously high standards for what he considers not "choss". Might be worth going up and making your own judgement. I think The Matador looks excellent and Bull Rider is a fantastic summer tick. It's a new limestone venue so if a few things need a bit of glue it shouldn't be a big surprise - where would any limestone bouldering venue be without this sort of work?

[dunnyg]

Some guy called Adam told me it was all wet at the moment so best stick to the grit.

[Will Hunt]

I think Adam has cleverly worked out how to exploit quantum theory to ensure that the crags are simultaneously gopping and bone dry, depending on who asks and whether he wants to visit.
 

[James Malloch]

Does anyone know the start of play at Attermire? I’m hoping it’ll be okay despite the recent bits of rain.

Also - what’re the landings like? Is it the kind of place where 2-3 (or more) pads are needed?

How long would you give for the walk in too? Looks quite a way…

[Fiend]

Manure.

[moose]

Does anyone know the start of play at Attermire? I’m hoping it’ll be okay despite the recent bits of rain.

Also - what’re the landings like? Is it the kind of place where 2-3 (or more) pads are needed?

How long would you give for the walk in too? Looks quite a way…

I can't help with info on the walk-in (I got lost when I last tried), but if you want extra pads and a spot this weekend, let me know.  I'm keen to test my friable wrist on Bull Wrangler / Rider.

[tim palmer]

I was there on Sunday afternoon (before the deluge on Tuesday) and it was climbable but slightly damp in places.

We had one large organic,  a normal size pad and a small drop zone  and that was a bit lean for the long one through the roof (pads needed moving for the last bit).

The walk took 45 mins or so with a 5 and a 2 year old (the 5 year old walked,  the little one was carried).

The matador problem is brilliant and worth the moderate walk.

[Bradders]

Definitely not a one pad venue, two minimum. The problems generally cover a fair amount of ground, which is generally a mix of rock and poo.

The walk is fine, easier than Crookrise for instance.

Matador as Tim says is superb. Bull Rider has a fairly horrible hold on it but Wrangler is great.

[dunnyg]

BETA ALERT

My notes say to tape up left hand 3rd finger for bull rider. Aside from one ming hold I really enjoyed (almost) doing it. I went with 2 pads and a spotter to shuffle them, but more is merrier.

[monkey boy]

I reckon we've had enough dry days since Tuesday that it should be ok this weekend. We walked from Victoria Cave side and it took about 45 mins but think the other parking is better. Pad wise I had one big, one medium and a blubber until Bradders arrived. I think if you climb on your own a fair amount and work all the sections this is fine but 3 pads would be better. Matador is very good.

[James Malloch]

Thanks for all the detailed replies. I’m keen to get up there soon. Got a week off work so hopefully we can manage a trip up this week.

Matador is a bit hard for me at the moment but keen to see what it’s like all the same and get some easier ticks whilst there.

Got 3 pads which I can carry on my own if needed, but easier whilst there’s two of us this week.