[shark]

Professional dog wanker El Mocho

He's stronger than you, but no need to be rude.
 

P.s. once you've read that, you cannot unread that. Cringeworthy.

I made the mistake of asking him about the ‘ins and outs’ of professional dog breeding as we are considering getting one of ours served. He went into it all in graphic detail 

[tomtom]

A stroke of luck then?

[nai]

A stroke of luck then?

Is that an attempt at a dog pun? very poor

[tomtom]

A stroke of luck then?

Is that an attempt at a dog pun? very poor

Wanking and dogs...

[monkoffunk]

.....

After that tried workshy, which is either a two move 7B+ (at least) or the worlds hardest 7A depending on if you use the supporting block. Both seem impossible to me but that doesn’t bother me as I’m convinced it’s the biggest sandbag on Portland.

Quick exhausted play on sub youth (vert 7A+) on way out. Tried different beta I’ve seen recently on Instagram. Some hope this might go in near future having given up on it  last November.

Could you share the Instagram of sub youth? Turns out that new cuttings is quite doable with my son so may be spending a bit more time there. Terrible choice for summer daytimes but there we go! Do you know anything about Baron Gunpowder, on that front?

Workshy was originally given 7B with the block wasn't it? I'm sure I saw a video of the old sequence once which suggested that, but of course I can't find it now. Love to do it one day just for the sheer impossibility/brick hardness of it. Never done the first move nor the throw to the lip, which given there's only really what, 4 moves, isn't a strong performance!

Yeah Workshy was graded 7B then reclimbed without the block but the grade left the same. Now people say 7A with, 7B+ without. Although I know people who were happy to take 7B with and someone who says it’s useful to be able to do one arm pull up for the 7A version....

This is the original FA video but you can jump with your feet on the block which is perhaps why people suggest 7A now.

Sub Youth seems easiest like this:

https://www.instagram.com/p/CBa4LJxp0wh/?igshid=vjbnwz6czym9

Or maybe this for the flexible/shorter. Would be too bunched for me I think:

https://www.instagram.com/p/B5i6TdEDMQj/?igshid=s52rq31ma5qr

I do the first bit with a left knee bar before the high right heel, but it’s the right side pull before the top jug instead of the rat crimp that seems key.

[AJM]

I haven't been on Workshy for ages but somehow my memory isn't allowing me to able to imagine jumping (for the lip?) with feet still on the low block. But maybe I've forgotten how far it is.

Thanks! Will have to give subyouth a go at some point. I had somehow imagined it went straight up rather than using the hands/heel out right, but that's based more on what I assumed the line was rather than having ever really looked for holds.....

[Duma]

Sorry for ignorance but is the subyouth you're discussing the start to what was once a route bitd? 7b IIRC? Is the route now redundant?

And if so do folk boulder out plyometrically speaking too these days? And if so what font grade?

[sdm]

Simon, you may be doing this already but I found it easier to pull on, RH to lower of the slopey crimps, heel up, RH to the pinch before LH onto the higher sloper. You've still got to lockout a bit but you're half way there at least.

Tried that way and pinch seems like a red herring. Sam recommended that way yesterday and had one go but can’t get enough purchase on pinch to stay on. It’s really awkward to use and moving off it seems harder than going from lower crimp.

My current method is pull on RH to slopey crimp LF cross to foot beak Rheel on then dramatic flag with Left leg LH to crimp next to RH rock up and get intermediate sloper above pinch with thumb in flake with RH then bump it again to good crimp

With the dramatic flag, are you flagging on to something? I can't remember what the hold was like but it was flagging through on to a hold that made the difference for me.

[monkoffunk]

Sorry for ignorance but is the subyouth you're discussing the start to what was once a route bitd? 7b IIRC? Is the route now redundant?

And if so do folk boulder out plyometrically speaking too these days? And if so what font grade?

The routes are still there, but I don’t think many people climb them on a rope. The sport grades make no sense at all, sub youth is much harder than 7b+, there is a hard 7B with is apparently 7c and a 7C that was apparently 7c+ on a rope. But they aren’t. I think plyometrically speaking still tends to be done on a rope, although has been bouldered at 7B I think?

[shark]

With the dramatic flag, are you flagging on to something? I can't remember what the hold was like but it was flagging through on to a hold that made the difference for me.

Hi sdm

No I don’t flag on to a hold but doesn’t matter as I’m solid getting both crimps now - it’s yarding off them that’s the issue now. Same with Rattle and Hump. At the end of the day these are both basic problems that probably feel easy if you’re strong

[monkoffunk]

I haven't been on Workshy for ages but somehow my memory isn't allowing me to able to imagine jumping (for the lip?) with feet still on the low block. But maybe I've forgotten how far it is.

It seems further than Shane makes it look here!

https://www.instagram.com/p/B6x45gyDS11/?igshid=1jv4e3v22g5fh

[AJM]

The routes are still there, but I don’t think many people climb them on a rope. The sport grades make no sense at all, sub youth is much harder than 7b+, there is a hard 7B with is apparently 7c and a 7C that was apparently 7c+ on a rope. But they aren’t. I think plyometrically speaking still tends to be done on a rope, although has been bouldered at 7B I think?

Guide says 7B for plyometrically speaking.

I've never been on it, but the tale I heard second hand was that the top wasn't that much easier than the bottom on Sub Youth. Definitely not a place that uses the same grading scale as say Wallsend or Battleship!

[AJM]

It seems further than Shane makes it look here!
https://www.instagram.com/p/B6x45gyDS11/?igshid=1jv4e3v22g5fh

I'll have to go have a nosey at some point. I'd have sworn the block I'm thinking of is further back than his feet seem to be. But presumably not!

[Duma]

The routes are still there, but I don’t think many people climb them on a rope. The sport grades make no sense at all, sub youth is much harder than 7b+, there is a hard 7B with is apparently 7c and a 7C that was apparently 7c+ on a rope. But they aren’t. I think plyometrically speaking still tends to be done on a rope, although has been bouldered at 7B I think?

Guide says 7B for plyometrically speaking.

I've never been on it, but the tale I heard second hand was that the top wasn't that much easier than the bottom on Sub Youth. Definitely not a place that uses the same grading scale as say Wallsend or Battleship!

Cheers, interesting. Pretty sure I did Subyouth in the early 2000's, though the mists of time are fogging things a bit. Would have been up there with my harder boulder problem ticks at the time if 7A+ is correct. Definitely never managed Plyometrically Speaking, but remember the move was ace.
Re sport grades Oxley was pretty tall wasn't he, does height tame these problems much?

[spidermonkey09]

M- rest.

T - basically a bouldering session, but at The Cornice Warmed up on Rue Morgue and got dusty, gripped and horrific rope drag. Had to redpoint it but very good. Hammered the boulder on RnP and got consistently better on it over the session before getting through it last go of the day. Predictably I was completely powered out and had nothing left on the hard move in the groove so came off. Good to get through it though.

W- rest.

T- Max Hangs. Sacked off the cornice due to the deluge. Did 3 sets at 5kg assist before dialling it back to 7.5. Weirdly my right arm felt stronger throughout, its usually the other way around.

F- first set of anderson hangs in a month.  as a result I took it pretty steady, +2.5kg on the edges and bodyweight on the slopers. Was basically fine on the edges but failed on the last reps of all the sets on the slopers regardless of the weight added. Experimented with some one arm repeaters at the end with 15kg of assist. Would like to think this would be nearer 10kg when not fucked. Went to Masson Lees in the evening to belay girlfriend once the rain stopped and did a few 6s.

S- another evening belaying trip, this time to Horseshoe. Horrifically busy, to the extent that it put me in a bit of a bad mood. Saw someone stripping a route via abseil, with no prussik, grimly locking the dead rope off with one arm while struggling to extricate the draws with the other. I thought he was going to crater in front of me. When he got down I politely asked whether he had a prussik loop. He looked at me like I was a complete cunt and told me he had a jumar in his bag, like this somehow answered the question. I gave up and left it, but how more people dont kill themselves is a mystery to me. From his conversation with his mate, it transpired that another member of their party had untied at the top of the route and dropped the rope. He then decided to unclip from the belay and top out, unprotected, through the choss. He seemingly had no idea about the danger. Unbelievable, and frankly a bit depressing. Once everyone fucked off I actually quite enjoyed a few 6s on the main wall.

S- Two Tier as the cornice was a waterfall. Warmed up by doing Countdown, which I last tried five years ago. Its still nails for the grade! Went up to the Upper Tier which I've been meaning to do for years. Tried The Sea is a Brown Paper Bag which was brilliant but has never seen 7b+. Absolutely nails. Great crag though, and nice to be away from it all. Keen to go back and try a few of the others too.

Pretty good week, bit of training even got done. Ideally will try and keep it up but will probably end up going outside instead. Annoying not to finish off RnP, compounded by it getting soaking wet, but it sounds like its getting there now so will hopefully get back on it next week.

[Will Hunt]

S- another evening belaying trip, this time to Horseshoe. Horrifically busy, to the extent that it put me in a bit of a bad mood. Saw someone stripping a route via abseil, with no prussik, grimly locking the dead rope off with one arm while struggling to extricate the draws with the other. I thought he was going to crater in front of me. When he got down I politely asked whether he had a prussik loop. He looked at me like I was a complete cunt and told me he had a jumar in his bag, like this somehow answered the question. I gave up and left it, but how more people dont kill themselves is a mystery to me. From his conversation with his mate, it transpired that another member of their party had untied at the top of the route and dropped the rope. He then decided to unclip from the belay and top out, unprotected, through the choss. He seemingly had no idea about the danger. Unbelievable, and frankly a bit depressing. Once everyone fucked off I actually quite enjoyed a few 6s on the main wall.

I become ever more convinced that people are infected with some sort of brain disease that makes them think it is impossible to get hurt while sport climbing. It's the only explanation for the fuckwittedness that is seen at every sport crag.

[monkoffunk]

The routes are still there, but I don’t think many people climb them on a rope. The sport grades make no sense at all, sub youth is much harder than 7b+, there is a hard 7B with is apparently 7c and a 7C that was apparently 7c+ on a rope. But they aren’t. I think plyometrically speaking still tends to be done on a rope, although has been bouldered at 7B I think?

Guide says 7B for plyometrically speaking.

I've never been on it, but the tale I heard second hand was that the top wasn't that much easier than the bottom on Sub Youth. Definitely not a place that uses the same grading scale as say Wallsend or Battleship!

Cheers, interesting. Pretty sure I did Subyouth in the early 2000's, though the mists of time are fogging things a bit. Would have been up there with my harder boulder problem ticks at the time if 7A+ is correct. Definitely never managed Plyometrically Speaking, but remember the move was ace.
Re sport grades Oxley was pretty tall wasn't he, does height tame these problems much?

No I don’t think so. I think some of them just had a grade thrown at them with no thought honestly. I think Fibonacci Sequence hadn’t even climbed as a sport route when it got graded 7c+ (might be wrong about that, but vaguely recall reading that somewhere). The start of it is labelled 7C but has never been climbed in its current state despite all the 8As being repeated multiple time’s.