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Comp beasts getting out (or not) (Read 7436 times)

Wil

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I remember an interview with Malcolm Smith in one of the old mags about how the hardest problem he'd ever done was on his homeboard and if he never climbed outside again he wouldn't be bothered.

At the time I thought this was pretty weird, maybe he was ahead of the game? Although he was smoking roll ups not vaping.

Bradders

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#26 Re: Comp beasts getting out (or not)
August 05, 2020, 05:13:19 pm
Worth mentioning Nathaniel Coleman here I think. Pretty much top of the tree in terms of comp climbing in the USA, qualified for the Olympics, yet had never even put time into an 8C before let alone done one.

Now goes and does an 8C+ and from the sounds of it manages it much quicker than Drew Ruana, who I think I'm right in saying quit comps to focus on climbing outside.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CDei7SWDLls/?igshid=1h9tyfk8vcdzg

SA Chris

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#27 Re: Comp beasts getting out (or not)
August 05, 2020, 05:16:37 pm
See QBV thread. Not sure if DR did it at all?

Bradders

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#28 Re: Comp beasts getting out (or not)
August 05, 2020, 06:18:31 pm
No I don't think he's finished it off yet.

gme

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#29 Re: Comp beasts getting out (or not)
August 05, 2020, 06:31:21 pm
They just need to be led to the prize on let loose. Not going to go out looking and developing stuff.

Loads of examples.

Rustam was a classic from a few years ago with that think of Daniel woods that no one could repeat and did it in three or four days between comps.

Tomoa flashing that 8B+

Coops_13

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#30 Re: Comp beasts getting out (or not)
August 05, 2020, 06:45:27 pm
Rustam was a classic from a few years ago with that think of Daniel woods that no one could repeat and did it in three or four days between comps.
Hypnotized Minds?

Duma

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#31 Re: Comp beasts getting out (or not)
August 05, 2020, 08:05:15 pm
...like I said in the opening post...
like when Rustam did hypnotised minds after a wc.

36chambers

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#32 Re: Comp beasts getting out (or not)
August 05, 2020, 08:58:43 pm
Rustam was a classic from a few years ago with that think of Daniel woods that no one could repeat and did it in three or four days between comps.
Hypnotized Minds?

I walked past Rustam in Rocklands last year just as he fell off a move that I had flashed a few hours earlier. Another entry in the little book of "wads that I kinda burnt off but obviously not really" :whistle:

duncan

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#33 Re: Comp beasts getting out (or not)
August 23, 2020, 09:36:06 pm
Laura Rogera warms-down from first place in Briançon with a one day/3rd go ascent of ‘La Prophétie des grenouilles’ (9a) just down the road.  Though arguably she’s at least as well known for climbing outside.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CEPkzbSjG9T/?igshid=2f1vcuruhaqg

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#34 Re: Comp beasts getting out (or not)
August 23, 2020, 09:37:32 pm
Casual! I wonder where she clipped the chain from?

SA Chris

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#35 Re: Comp beasts getting out (or not)
August 24, 2020, 08:30:36 am
Nice. Resisting an urge to make a joke about the route name..

galpinos

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#36 Re: Comp beasts getting out (or not)
August 24, 2020, 09:50:56 am
Nice. Resisting an urge to make a joke about the route name..

Was it named after the film?

 

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