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Topic split - Self belay set ups (Read 11314 times)

Yossarian

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#50 Re: Topic split - Self belay set ups
January 09, 2023, 11:04:46 am
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The Microcender range are superior to a standard toothed jammer like the Basic for backup because they are much kinder to the rope under a shock load (which is a given as it is being used as a towed backup device) - they tend to slide a little first rather than rupture the rope sheath. A Troll/ISC Rocker or equivalent towed backup device is probably even better.

Having pretty much every backup device ever made at my disposal, I tend to opt for the Microtraxion. The advantages of a microcender etc are purely theoretical unless you plan on long falls right below the anchor. If I want a second system I use a Kong back-up on short lanyard. IMHO it's the best of the rocker derivatives for climbing contexts.

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I think John Middendorf was instrumental in the design of the rescucender non-toothed cams?

Those Rock Exotica devices were developed from the Gibb's ascender, which I'd guess long pre-dates John. Petzl bought them ~15 years ago.

Just revisiting this because I want to revisit my shunting setup(s) for the spring.

JB - with a Microtraxion and your Kong Back-Up setup, are both devices on the same rope (or are you using a doubled rope)? And what sort of lanyard is the Back-Up attached with?

I've generally been using 2x Microtraxions with the upper one attached by elastic to a sling round my shoulders to keep it pulled up. I've experimented with a top MT along with a GriGri below, but its a pain in the arse to keep pulling through, so generally put the GriGri on my harness if I might need to go down at some point.

dunnyg

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#51 Re: Topic split - Self belay set ups
January 09, 2023, 11:17:20 am
Last year I used a shunt and a microtraxion. I used the chest harness on the shunt so that caught me most of the time. Not as easy to zip up and down as it is With a grigri but was reassuring.

Johnny Brown

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#52 Re: Topic split - Self belay set ups
January 09, 2023, 12:28:21 pm
Trying to think if I've ever actually used a second device rope soloing... possibly not soloing for soloing's sake, more returning up fixed lines from abbing in to take pics or do a survey.

If I'm on one rope on a sport or sport-style crag I'd just tie a big knot or put the grigri on like you. But generally if I'm worried enough to want two devices I'd want two ropes. I attach the back-up with either a tied rope cow's tail or lanyard like a petzl connect. The adjustable ones are nice but do add an extra level of complexity that might not be good in fall.

Paul B

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#53 Re: Topic split - Self belay set ups
January 09, 2023, 12:32:01 pm
I've generally been using 2x Microtraxions with the upper one attached by elastic to a sling round my shoulders to keep it pulled up. I've experimented with a top MT along with a GriGri below, but its a pain in the arse to keep pulling through, so generally put the GriGri on my harness if I might need to go down at some point.

I think you might've been on relatively steep ground?

A Cinch will self feed* as the bottom piece and gets used by people cleaning aid pitches as a backup for that reason(that's either from PtPP or Chris McNamara's book, I can't remember which).

*Stonelove - "don't quote me on that"

csl

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#54 Re: Topic split - Self belay set ups
February 18, 2023, 09:04:39 am
I stumbled across this video on youtube and the accompanying blog post - lead rope soloing is not something I'll be doing myself but was interesting to read/watch.


https://www.brentbarghahn.com/climbing-blog/redpoint-rope-soloing-2021

 

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