[shark]

11.7-9 Average  162.6 (up 0.5lbs)

M.

T.Morning. Heading out it was cool and overcast and Ben suggested Suavito 7B highball instead of the Tor. Didn’t have the guide and I forgot the approach so initially ended up at Birchens. I was feeling awful - glands up. Had a swollen fingertip from a thorn that I’d tried to squeeze out the previous day. Left the boys to warm up on Kiss Me Arse 7A and did some random soloing. Came back and failed KMA sit start. This has happened before. Boys did Technical Genius 7A as well. Moved down to Gardoms. Was going to sit it out but ended up getting involved. Didn’t get to far sidehold but got a sequence for the future. Tommy got close but didn’t commit to final slap

W.Morning. Damper more humid. Low lying clouds in Grindleford valley. Tor. Bens taken. Installed ourselves at other end. Tip still swollen and somehow had gained a sore lower back from previous day. Had a few goes on Rattle and Hump. Conditions ok. Tom belayed me on Tin Of. Was greasy from 20 feet onwards. Bolt to bolted it then stripped it
Evening. Fingerboard. Ordinarily would have done weighted max hangs but didn’t want to strain my back further. Worked towards density hangs but became apparent I was under par so switched to recruitment pulls and velocity hangs

T.

F. Noon. Atrocious claggy weather. Back felt much better. Did most of a max hangs session until it became apparent the boys still wanted to quest outside
Afternoon. Swung by the Tor. Fucking circus. 20+ people and shitty parking Didn’t even get out of the van. Ben suggested Griffs. It was mainly wet or damp but Ovine 7B was driable. So we dried it. The boys despatched it impressively quickly and started working the lower start. I felt I was climbing better trying it and didn’t feel like I was too far off doing it. Looking at description and vids after realised we were starting with wrong sloper for RH. Suspect it doesn’t make much difference

S. PM Systems board. Did the butch gaston sequence 10x. Couldn’t do crusher crimps problem but was warm and humid conditions and fingers probably still tired from trying Ovine. Did sets on the throw move which was going well till I got an alarming twinge on my shoulder so backed off.

S.

Had a lapse with my weight at start of week but back on track now. Continuing with last weeks theme struggled with outdoor climbing but at Griffs it started to feel like it’s coming back.

[tomtom]

Evening all....

Mon: Rest day

Tu: Board day. Climbing quite well - but holes in tips from Sunday at Blackstone meant I couldn’t get much done on taped tips. Persevered for 20-30 min then gave up. Tried to do some one arm stuff but that didnt really work either. Ended up doing hangs on the half crimp on the smaller edge. -18kg super hard on my LH but fine on my RH. The opposite from the other week. Go figure...

We: Board day. Skin was alright enough to climb today with no tape - OK session, even did a new problem or two (easyish)

Thu: 1 arm day. It wasn’t happening (again) Managed 2x -12kg, 4x -18kg, 2x -10 - all on the large slot (2 pad). Well below my best weights....

Fri: Board day (eve)
Good session - warmed up really well - repeated many of the easier problems but got stonewalled by my harder ones. Ran out of steam after 45-50 min but good nonetheless.

Sa: Got out in the morning to Wilton 4. Sweaty - but OK in the shade. Tired out tbh (from board session the evening before) but managed to have a good 2 hour session on a 7C I’m working there.. Just as I was about to jack it in as a bit of a practice rather than progress session managed to refine my micro beta and made things quite a bit better. Too gassed by that point to do much more.

Su: Felt like shit. Mild hangover feel all day.. went up to the roasting hot attic in the afternoon to do some one armed stuff with little or no expectations. New PBs on all accounts (eh? Why?). On the big slots 1x -10, 1x -6, 1x -3, 3x Zero assist, 3x -3. Then did some half crimp one arm stuff on the smaller (one pad) edge. Previous best was -18kg... Went -18, -16, -14, -12 (LH only just), -10 (LH gave up), -9, -8 and then failure on RH at -7 (open hand on left failed at -9).

Funny old week - lots of late nights with work - weather not ideal - and then from somewhere a 1 arm session with a load of best weights. Oh well!

[abarro81]

"Worked towards density hangs but became apparent I was under par so switched to recruitment pulls and velocity hangs"
   and that's all I have to say in the matter.

[petejh]

What the hell are any of those things? Shark have you been to a secret marketing symposium during lock-down and they've brainwashed you to drip-feed these terms to the riff-raff in order to sell more lettuce training programmes? Like some scientology ponzi scheme.

[shark]

What the hell are any of those things?

Density hangs are long duration max hangs of 30-45 secs. Recruitment pulls and velocity hangs are short max pulls/hangs

www.trainingbeta.com/the-simplest-finger-training-program/

https://www.trainingbeta.com/media/tyler-simple-fingers/

[Rob F]

Shark's gonna be the one getting some lovely non blurry pictures for the guidebook. Recruitment pulls are so he can get up the rope quickly enough to get to the throw for the horn when the ambient light is optimum...

[Nutty]

Poor week this week. Skin issues, work and a wedding anniversary limited available training time.

Monday: Fingerboard and misc. exercises. 5 x 20 sec assisted one-arm hangs @ 80% bodyweight on each arm, 25mm edge. Pinky mono lifts.

Tuesday: Rest. Rehab pinky mono lifts.

Wednesday: Fingerboard and misc. exercises. 5 x 20 sec assisted one-arm hangs @ 80% bodyweight on each arm, 25mm edge. Pinky mono lifts.

Thursday: Rest. Rehab pinky mono lifts.

Friday - Sunday: Nothing.

Hopefully get more done this week, though might be busy with work again. Right pinky is starting to feel a bit stronger - need to keep up the rehab. I've completed four fingerboard sessions at this load so will increase the difficulty this week, probably keep the same load and move to a 20mm edge. Need to get on the board as well.

[JohnM]

Weight - not sure maybe up a couple of pounds (146lbs). Ate a lot more to see if it would help with my fatigue but also boozed a lot.

M - Nothing. Blood test at the docs and tick encephalitis vaccine.

T - One arm assisted hangs with 4kg assistance and 30mm edge. Fingers were ok but shoulders not really up to it (5 each arm, 6 secs). Max. hangs 12mm edge. Strict half crimp + 20kg, 6 secs.

W - Neil Gresham fingerboard endurance routine. 30mm edge + 12kg assistance. Got really pumped but completed 4 sets as planned.

T - driving to Carinthia for a holiday. Stopped on the way to do a trail run. Beautiful area but trails were very unstable. 14km 900m height gain.

F - climbing in Maltatal at Colosseum. Really nice overhanging wall on compact gneiss. Was very busy so went straight on an 8a+. Felt like a 6c+ to a 6C+/V5 boulder. Didn't look at the top. Got through the boulder on my second try and then onsighted to the top which felt about 7a+/b. Really nice and fun route but felt more like a 7c+ to me. I see most people on 8a.nu take 8a+ though. I don't see the point of that site as a grade moderation tool as there is no incentive to take a lower grade if you want points?

S - Climbing at Maltatal. Tried an 8a which was like a 6b+ to a hard morpho boulder. Got shutdown in the sun. Went to drink a beer under Bügeleisen. Very impressive boulder. Obviously very hard but the grips are all there!

S - did a trail run to a ridge/mountain that defines the Austrian/Slovenian border. Made it to the border but retreated before the summit as there were storms brewing all around. 17km 1500m height gain.

A nice week although I was stressed most of the week waiting for my blood results. Found out on Friday that I didn't have any tick virus and had normal readings for other parameters which was a relief. I definitely felt a bit run down and "post-viral" the week before but hopefully that has passed now. I hope the tick vaccination has given me some kind of immunity as we are on holiday in the tick encephalitis capital of Austria and I have already had 4 ticks including a big one in my nipple and my gf had one in her eyelid! It is unbelievable how many there are this year.

[Will Hunt]

M - Felt knackered from Sunday at the Bowl. Rest.

T - After work at the Bowl. Sunset Boulevard. Warmed up dogging up. Played with a little beta tweak and decided to use on redpoint. Felt really strong and secure with the top sequence on the warm up lap. There was a bit of a queue so had cooled down way too much before getting back on for a redpoint effort. Didn't really pause for long in either of the rests. Caught the lip crimps and immediately went numb-fingered and cold. Stabbed into the letterbox flake-slot and felt like I was barely holding it. Thought I was off but caught the undercut and pulled through easily to the top.
Ben did not give me the satisfaction of failure, doing it on his 3rd and last RP of the night, as is his wont.
Also did a 7a+ just left of Sunset called Before Sunset.

W -

T -

F -

S - family walk

S - Kilnsey. Enjoyable scenes. Tried the Last Gasp Finish. Dithered a bit on the easy middle section and ended up a bit flash-pumped. Eventually got a bit of a no hands rest but was a bit too far gone to recover properly. Pulled out from the rest and got it wrong going for a blind sidepull so had to downclimb back to the rest. Quite tired now. Went out again and caught the good hold at the end of the tricky climbing. Held it momentarily before falling.
Felt very steady next go.
Rested and heckled some more before dogging up Comedy to get a feel for the moves again. I think I'll try and project this next. It should be OK, I just need to work the start properly and try and get it neat instead of slapping and cutting loose.

[Fiend]

T.Morning. Heading out it was cool and overcast and Ben suggested Suavito 7B highball instead of the Tor. Didn’t have the guide and I forgot the approach so initially ended up at Birchens.

this is far more fun than taking the piss out of The Oak. Didn't you have an attempted Gardoms visit before which involved the lads not believing you that it would be gopping, and putting your back out lifting one of the hounds over a stile?? Maybe best avoid Gardoms...

[Stabbsy]

T.Morning. Heading out it was cool and overcast and Ben suggested Suavito 7B highball instead of the Tor. Didn’t have the guide and I forgot the approach so initially ended up at Birchens.

this is far more fun than taking the piss out of The Oak. Didn't you have an attempted Gardoms visit before which involved the lads not believing you that it would be gopping, and putting your back out lifting one of the hounds over a stile?? Maybe best avoid Gardoms...

In Simon’s defence, I’ve seen far worse. Walking up to Birchens with my wife, about 400m from Robin Hood, we met a guy coming the other way asking me if I knew where Mark’s Roof was. He’d walked from the parking at the other end and he had a guidebook.

[nai]

M - Secret Garden. Thought it'd be catching breeze but it wasn't quite.  Was finger friendly at least.  Failed on everything >6A. 
Some core, maybe?

T - 2x10 moderate board problems
pull day:
offset scap shrugs
static scap holds
offset pullups
band IYT glides
rev YT
bicep curl
low row

W - stretch

Th - 3 x 10 problems. Set 2 with ankle weights, set 3 using one leg.
push day, 2 sets each of:
dips, elevated pike press, TRX Y, T, archer row
frog/crane stands
HI core
brief stretch PM

Fr
offset scap shrugs x3
static scap holds x3
narrow chinup - wide pullup
band IYT glides
rev YT
SLSL Deadlift
Heel glides
Attempted Pistol Squats, managed eight on right but was very weak on left so did some Cossack squats then eventually scraped one out. Did a few LL sets with a bit of assistance.


S quicky late afternoon, chose Burbage, chose wrong. Sun came out and limited breeze. Filth. Plan was to quickly solo 20 odd routes but some butresses were busy and movement and head wasn't quite there anyway.  Scraped nervily up about 10 then ended up playing on variations of the Hanging Rib at Remergence.

S nowt

Surprisngly productive week considering my once-every-few-years Hayfever/allergy came on and left me with horrible headaches and lethargy.

[Duma]

T.Morning. Heading out it was cool and overcast and Ben suggested Suavito 7B highball instead of the Tor. Didn’t have the guide and I forgot the approach so initially ended up at Birchens.

this is far more fun than taking the piss out of The Oak. Didn't you have an attempted Gardoms visit before which involved the lads not believing you that it would be gopping, and putting your back out lifting one of the hounds over a stile?? Maybe best avoid Gardoms...

In Simon’s defence, I’ve seen far worse. Walking up to Birchens with my wife, about 400m from Robin Hood, we met a guy coming the other way asking me if I knew where Mark’s Roof was. He’d walked from the parking at the other end and he had a guidebook.

I was asked how to get to Cheddar Gorge the other day, whilst stood by high rock...

[spidermonkey09]

Another good week falling off things at the Cornice but with no actual climbing specific training taking place. I know I should but get so bored sat at home I am unwilling to sacrifice going outside at the moment.

M- rested.

T- some TRX, first in a while. Good to move my shoulders a bit and generally loosen up. Went to the Churnet in the evening to spot girlfriend. Managed to mostly resist pulling on and ruining my skin.

W- Cornice. RnP. Some progress on the start and linked it from the crimp to the top. Need good conditions on the sloper as I just grease off it from the ground. Some others tried it and got shut down on the boulder which at least confirmed to me it is actually quite hard. At the end of the day Jim Pope flashed it which was amazing to watch.

T- some TRX, some core, and some stretching. Thought I would be shit but hamstrings seem to be reasonably bendy still.

F- Cornice. M1 was engulfed in clag so I feared it would be shit, and indeed it was. The entire crag was condensed; some of the worst conditions I have ever attempted to climb in. After dogging up a 7a we considered sacking it to the Tor (glad we didnt given the subsequent reports of it being rammed) but decided to give it a bit longer and settled on Old Man River as it seemed a bit dryer than elsewhere. After dogging up it I fluked the final section on RP, cleaning my shoes after each move! Had a look at Zippys Extension, which was really good. Sorted a sequence and thought it was easy and probably 7b+. Revised opinion after falling off on the link. Conditions improved as the day went on and I managed to link it by the skin of my teeth last go of the day which was nice. Really good route if anyone hasnt done it.

S- rest.

S- Cornice. A lot better than Friday but still quite warm. Saw Barrows and Fiend. Fell off Cosmopolitan at the top for the 3rd successive time as a warm up. Put the draws in RnP and got a new high point from the deck. Felt increasingly knackered after that but linked it from halfway through the boulder to the top last go of the day, which is surely the last possible link to do. Cant be far away but could definitely do with a cold day on the sloper. Increasingly feeling I should have got on K3 instead but the top wall is so good that I still want to do it, so will try and finish the job. Left just before biblical thunderstorm.

Not sure how much more rain the Cornice can take given the deluge last week and more forecast this week. Seems pretty resistant so far at least. I really need a two day rest and to do some training but am in the Peak for the bolting workshop tomorrow so might as well do some climbing before it to justify the drive. Hopefully I can finish RnP off soon and try something else.

[shark]

this is far more fun than taking the piss out of The Oak.

You do park as for Birchens for the Suavito end of Gardoms. I thought the Birchens approach path branched off to Gardoms but in fact there is a separate approach path just down the road the other side of the pub

[nai]

Not sure how much more rain the Cornice can take given the deluge last week and more forecast this week.

Think it's quite resilient at this time of year, was so dry previously, the trees will be soaking it all up now they're in leaf.

Agree about Zippy's Direct on OMR, far better than the original. Try Naive and Sentimental as well, imagine you'll find that good value.

[monkoffunk]

M - Nights. ?Partial set of repeaters. Not feeling it at all. Not entirely sure why.
T- Nights.
W - Rest. ?Couple of recruitment hangs.
T - Portland. Blacknor. Socially distant sport. First time in 10 months. Failed to redpoint anything of any grade. Strung some moves together. Got very pumped. Probably pushed too hard, got cramps in forearms. Bailed off 6b ‘cool down’ to finish day when fingers were clamping shut onto palms with every move even on the biggest jugs and foot ledges.
F - Nights.
S - Nights. Floor core. DOMS.
S - Rest. Trying to massage arms.

Not much training with nights. So good to be back on a rope, but totally overdid it requiring three days at least to recover. Would like to recover some route fitness, still have lots of potential night shifts coming up though. Next month have some time off, need to start building board.

[spidermonkey09]

Not sure how much more rain the Cornice can take given the deluge last week and more forecast this week.

Think it's quite resilient at this time of year, was so dry previously, the trees will be soaking it all up now they're in leaf.

Agree about Zippy's Direct on OMR, far better than the original. Try Naive and Sentimental as well, imagine you'll find that good value.

Yeah, no idea why it wasn't the original line to be honest. Good to hear re the seepage, hope you're right! Thanks for the heads up on Naive and Sentimental, although I might need to get the yard broom out!

[gollum]

M - Steady morning at Caley working on a wide range of fairly easy  but most definitely fun things.

T - Nip up to Ilkley we find the Calf the most bearable place when my fingers are tender as the holds are generally quite positive or at least the ones I can use these days are. Not as much success as last week but did enjoy reminding myself of some of the great times I’ve had on this bit of rock. My favourite being a twist through on a thin pinch in the middle of the low traverse.
Steady 10k in the afternoon.

W - weather looking dodgy and changeable so head up to Almscliffe late morning. Virgin Boulder is bone dry on it’s steep sides, so do some of the old classics. The Gypsy takes a few goes but feels steady once I get comfortable with the heel hook and do Crucis from standing in about three goes, then spend ages trying to work out a sequence to do it from sitting. I don’t really remember whether it was a SDS or not in the mists of time, and not does Steve despite thinking he might have done the first ascent, but might not. We then spend ages working the sequence for the traverse pretty much from scratch based on our memory simply being the first half is thuggy and the second half fingers. By the time we suss all the moves we are knackered, but hopefully have the numbers for next time.
A very hot and sticky treadmill run when I get home.

T - Chucking it down. Run on the treadmilll and do a bit of core work.

F - Forecast looks promising but good weather never materialises so same as yesterday.

S - Nowt

S - Nowt

A good week with definite progress being made. Getting up a few things working others. Reckon finger tips will thank me for only doing 3 days this week.

Weight still going in right direction. Think will start doing more training type stuff in next 2/3 weeks.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - board climbing at friend's. Steep, fingery, short.
Tue - TB DL (60 KG) x5, clean and press (30 kg) x5, x2 back to back, x5. 2' rests.
Wed - board one foot +8 kg, tired but strong. Weights.
Thu - forced rest.
Fri - forced rest.
Sat - micro weights session.
Sun - loaded carries, snatch pulls, boxing bag.

[Coops_13]

M: 20 press-ups. Chest press up to 145lb X3 *3sets. Shoulder press 35lb X8 *3sets. Rotator cuff exercises. Lattice high intensity core. Fingerboard to start loading finger, stayed in half-crimp mostly. Started reducing the weight being taken off to test where I'm at. 33mm went down to BW. 23mm (33mm + AAA battery) managed down to -20lb. Did 3 sets total 10s hangs at this weight

T: 25 pull-ups. Weighted pull-ups up to 90lb X3 *3sets (may be a touch heavy). Offset pull-ups X3 *3sets. Frenchies max * 3 sets. Bicep curl 40lb X5 *3sets. Lower body stretching

W: 100 press-ups. Shoulder press 40lb X5 *3sets. Rotator cuff exercises. 50 ab-wheel roll-outs. Fingerboard down to 3 sets 10s 23mm (33mm+AAA) BW!!! Very pleased with the quick progress in two days!

T: 25 pull-ups. Weighted pull-ups up to 90lb X3 *3sets (atill feeling heavy). Offset pull-ups X5 *3sets. Frenchies max * 3 sets. Bicep curl 40lb X5 *3sets. Lower body stretching

F: 300 core movements

S: La Plata Peak (14,343ft). 9.8 miles, 4,300 ft ascent. Summitted in whiteout conditions with a horizontal blizzard. Cleared up 30 mins after I left the summit, bad timing! Saw a porcupine on the way up!

S: Fingerboard down to 18mm (BM2K + AA battery) -10lb *3sets

Finger seems to be improving fast, tempted to get outside but going to keep with the regular loading perhaps untill BW on 14mm is pain free

[cheque]

Walking up to Birchens with my wife, about 400m from Robin Hood, we met a guy coming the other way asking me if I knew where Mark’s Roof was. He’d walked from the parking at the other end and he had a guidebook.

A confused guy once approached me at Bamford (as in, at Bamford Edge, underneath Gun Buttress) and said “excuse me, which part of Stanage is this?” He was holding a then-current copy of Eastern Grit and had a group of climbers he was instructing with him.

[Will Hunt]

Walking up to Birchens with my wife, about 400m from Robin Hood, we met a guy coming the other way asking me if I knew where Mark’s Roof was. He’d walked from the parking at the other end and he had a guidebook.

A confused guy once approached me at Bamford (as in, at Bamford Edge, underneath Gun Buttress) and said “excuse me, which part of Stanage is this?” He was holding a then-current copy of Eastern Grit and had a group of climbers he was instructing with him.

 

How does this happen?!

[andy popp]

I met a bedraggled and unhappy group on top of a very misty Kinder once, wanting to know where they were (conveniently, we were stood directly above a crag I knew well): they were miles from where they thought they were.

[mr chaz]

Goals: I) End lockdown fitter. II) Maintain finger strength. III) Get out and enjoy some climbing!

M.
T. Fingerboard - 2arm max hangs.
W.
T. Fingerboard - 2 arm max hangs.
F. 15 minute HIIT.
S. 3.2 km run.
S.15 min HIIT. 10 mins of pullups.

Dropped my previous goal of exercise everyday as that was intended to get me off my arse whilst on furlough/ working from home - and I'm not either of those now.