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Power Club 534 1-7 June (Read 2775 times)

shark

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Power Club 534 1-7 June
June 07, 2020, 10:15:19 pm
11.7-9 Average  162.1 (down 1.3lbs)

M.Morning. Cornice early doors again with Tom. Roof Warrior second session. 5 tie ins. Some improvement but still not done all the moves. Body doesn’t seem to be firing properly. Tommy not happy on it either. Evening. Ergo Edge. Max hangs. Best half crimp +20kg x 6secs and drag +30kg x 7secs

T.

W.Morning. Drizzly, humid. Tom keen to boulder. Anston. Variably greasy. Tom dispatched Fine Art, Beta Blocker and Beretta. I just tried Fine Art (had done the other two previously) Basically a foot on campus session. Was avoiding using the pocket which may have been a mistake looking at vids after. Hate pockets
Evening. Ergo edge. Max hangs. Best Half crimp +27.5kg x5secs, drag +30kg x7secs

T.

F. Morning. Was thinking of grit but it rained overnight. Anston again with Tom. A little rainy again but fresher. Worked different sequences on Fine Art and was found variously wanting in reach, finger strength, and flexibility. Got involved with pocket in the end (rubbish on pockets) and think this is the way. All very dispiriting. Tommy did well on Fine Beta but no tick
Evening. Ergo Edge. Density hangs. Decent progress. Best hangs Half Crimp with 5kg off for 28secs, Full Crimp with 7.5kg off for 28 secs and Drag with 3.75kg off for 30 secs.

S.Afternoon. 2 hours of gardening then systems board. Benchmarks then did about 5 sets of 4-6 reps of hard Oak throw move from sitting then some repeats of the gaston sequence. Good session, was strong. Felt happy and optimistic again. Would love to get on the Oak to see how the throw move feels now.

S.

Despondent about my outdoor climbing performance this week but taking some solace from gains indoors. 4th successive week of incremental weight loss so that’s good but not out of the woods yet. Been slack about weight lifting so will start up again this week.

Nutty

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#1 Re: Power Club 534 1-7 June
June 08, 2020, 08:36:39 am
Monday: Rest
Tuesday: Garden board session. Tried ancap-style session again this week (reps of a 13-move problem). Progress from last week but tore a big flapper on my left ring finger on my 7th rep which curtailed the session.
Wednesday: Rest
Thursday: Fingerboard and misc. exercises. 5 x 20 sec assisted one-arm hangs @ 80% bodyweight on each arm, 25mm edge. Did some pinky mono lifts to get my left pinky stronger and to re-hab my right pinky.
Friday: Rest
Saturday: Fingerboard and misc. exercises. 5 x 20 sec assisted one-arm hangs @ 80% bodyweight on each arm, 25mm edge. Pinky mono lifts.
Sunday: Rest

Still steadily progressing with fingerboarding. Will do another couple of sessions at the same loading and edge size. Bought a mono trainer from ash climbing which arrived on Thursday with the plan to re-hab my right little finger and to target my little finger strength. Right pinky is very weak and stiff compared with the left.

Will Hunt

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#2 Re: Power Club 534 1-7 June
June 08, 2020, 09:41:08 am
Can't recall the days exactly, but this week a did an ab ripper x session and an easy repeaters session on the 33mm slots (open handed). Still bein protective of tweaky pulleys.

Repeaters session was 6 sets of 6 hangs, so pretty lightweight really.

Sunday - Hollywood Bowl. A pair were on Sunset Brown when we arrived so did some warming up hangs and pulls on a fingerboard. Took some photos while we waited. There were some cross words with a pair who arrived and jumped onto Sunset in front of us. So I got on but was now under pressure to have a redpoint go rather than go up to inspect alternative sequences. Didn't do badly and felt pretty fresh when I got to the roof flake but fucked up the left hand "go again" move to the good crimp over the lip. Didn't reach far enough to get it. Frustrating as had felt pretty decent up to there.
Tried the alternative sequence on the way down but didn't like it.

Good rest but on second go still felt a bit tired. Didn't feel great getting to the roof flake and then fell off in the same place on the top bulge.

Big old rest then last go of the day. Felt pretty poor and fell again in the same place.


My two previous sessions on this have been short, so I've only had 1 RP per day on it. Doing 3 in a day has shown me that my session recovery is dreadful on this type of thing, so if I want to get it done there's some pressure to do it on the first redpoint of the day. On the plus side, I did utilise the roof flake rest a bit better but I can't recover properly there.

teestub

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#3 Re: Power Club 534 1-7 June
June 08, 2020, 10:04:29 am
There were some cross words with a pair who arrived and jumped onto Sunset in front of us.

Ooooh fight fight fight!

JohnM

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#4 Re: Power Club 534 1-7 June
June 08, 2020, 10:31:57 am
Weight: 143-146lbs Back down close to my 8c weight from a few years ago now. In some ways it is depressing how much of a difference weight makes. When I look at the 9a climbers round here, with the exception of a few, they are all just waifs with chicken legs and no discerning musculature!

M: Schleier Wasserfall. The plan was to finish an 8a+/b from the week before and then start a longer term project. However, the top half of the route was pretty wet. This part is relatively easy so I decided to give it a go anyway. Warmed up on the fingerboard (I almost never do a warm-up route anymore) and went for a high risk first go burn. Got though all the hard climbing and curtailed the flash pump on a resting jug but unfortunately there was one wet hold high up (a press-up into a flat undercut and pulling through on that) that I just couldn't get passed. I had loads in the tank and would have definitely finished the route had it been dry so decided to move on for now. Went on to try the classic Mercy Street. This is the first 8c I have tried in 4-5 years and I expected to get spanked. However, it went way better than expected and I got to just below the finish very quickly doing all the moves in less than 3 goes. However, there is a tough boulder at the top on slopers. I didn't manage to link this but was still satisfied with my first session on the route.   

T: There is a mountain I can see from the flat (Rumerspitze) that I had not been up yet so I decided to run up that in the evening. Running was mostly impossible as it was a horrendously steep scree slope. I then had to claw my way up a cornice kicking steps into the snow (I should have turned back). I then realised reversing the cornice would have been horrendous so committed to the exposed ridge up to the summit. Went down the other side which had no cornice but the gullies where the trail was were full of snow so I had stick to the ridge which was disintegrating choss. Got back late. A good but somewhat sketchy outing. 25km with 2000m elevation gain.   

W: Climbing at Hottinger Graben in the PM. This is actually a cool crag on wildly overhanging conglomerate. Unfortunately it is a bit of long hike up to 1500m which was tough in the heat and on tired legs. Did a high risk warm-up go on a long overhanging 7c/+. Got through a hard crux low down so I assumed the rest would be jugs (I was wrong). Managed to do it first try but took ages getting up there trying to shift the flash pump! This route is called "Suiziege" as allegedly a goat managed to hang itself on the fixed bolting line. It's bell now adorns the lower off and there is a bit of vertebrae hanging from a thread half way up. It is really good route though. Like a harder and probably better Cova Felicitat for those who know that route in Margalef. Tried an 8a coming out of the cave which is probably the steepest route I have ever been on. Unfortunately this was pretty wet and felt very "organic" in the first half. I sacked it off when I hold exploded in my face. Tried another 7c and a 7b but the session went rapidly downhill and I just got pumped and fell off.

T: Nothing. Very fatigued all day.

F: Woke up very fatigued. Managed to have breakfast but then had to go straight back to sleep after. Used Dr. Google to look into probable causes, especially with respect to tick-borne diseases as I have had a few ticks recently. Cue a bit of a panic attack after reading about the worst ones. I went for a walk to try and calm down and then on the way back saw a big billboard beside the highway telling people to get vaccinated against tick-borne encephalitis. I took this as a sign!

S: Schleier Wasserfall. Got there very early but the top slopey crux on the 8c was already in the sun. Warmed up on the fingerboard and got PBs on both arms for one arm hangs probably just because I am a few pounds lighter. Went up the 8c and managed to link the boulder but not the intro section from the resting jug which is also very hard. Waited until late afternoon when the sun goes off the route. However, by the this time it was completely still and humid. Nearly managed to link the bottom 8a+ crimpy section. Got though the powerful middle section including the jump move first time and almost linked the intro sequence into the top boulder. By this time my skin was destroyed and was literally being removed in chunks! The top boulder involves a shoulder press into the left side of slopey heuco and the matching elevator style off very low and insecure feet. You then have to bring the feet up a bit and throw leftwards into a jug. You flick the right hand into the left side of the heuco where you left hand was to kill the swing. A very cool move but very insecure and conditions dependent. I then stupidly decided to try a 7b+ described as "rough". How rough could it be right? It turns out very and was like pulling on a cheese grater. Cue a protracted escape higher up to lower off via a via ferrata rung way out to the right. Energy levels remained decent all day but back home at 10pm I was out like a light.

S: Took the train up the Stubai Valley to avoid lots of uphill running and ran back home via really nice flowing single trails. 17km with 300m elevation gain.

A decent week in some respects but also very worrying for me. The fatigue I felt from Thursday onward concerned me a bit. I am used to feeling tired but this felt different, like a deep all over body fatigue with dulled senses. However, I am also susceptible to health anxiety from time to time and after reading about symptoms and causes this went into overdrive. Suddenly every ache and pain or normal tiredness is linked to a symptom of some kind and the stress and anxiety also manifests itself as physical symptoms. I went to the doctor this morning. She had a weary almost exasperated look as I told her about my Google investigation and grew impatient as I described my vague non-specific symptoms! She didn't seem overly keen to do a blood test but said she would if it would make me feel better. I also got the first jab for tick-borne encephalitis. I just hope it is not too late as reading about that is what made me go into meltdown! Anyway I have a clear head and very little fatigue this morning and feel a bit better due to the doctor's lack of concern. I won't be 100% relieved until I get the blood results back in 2-3 days though!   

Will Hunt

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#5 Re: Power Club 534 1-7 June
June 08, 2020, 10:45:17 am
I forgot to mention that I didn't feel any significant pain in my pulleys on Sunday, so things must be on the mend. Definitely too soon to do any crimping during training but really good to see improvement starting to come through.

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#6 Re: Power Club 534 1-7 June
June 08, 2020, 12:11:09 pm
No actual training for me this week, just got out on rock and spent the off days recovering as was usually battered.

M- rest. Did some core which was worthwhile.

T- Cornice. Had a look at RnP. Boulder unfathomable during this session but did some good links on the headwall. Also did Crime Passionel which was very good.

W- rest.

T- Cornice. still a bit broken but made some good progress having been told about the foot lock/ big drop knee. Sorted sequence for first half of the boulder. Linked the headwall from the fourth clip to the top twice in a row.

F- rest. Some distanced socialising in the garden in the evening. It was like camping; slightly unpleasantly cold but everyone got on with it admirably.

S- slept til 11. Did bugger all all day. Went for a walk in the afternoon and swerved the bad weather.

S- Cornice again. Definitely on the busy end of the spectrum but still just about ok I thought. Suspect it has ceased to matter to most people now that Cummings/beaches/protests have all happened but it is still on my mind. Good session on RnP armed with various bits of beta. Ended up amalgamating bits of all of them. The key seems to be seating a toe hook on a sharp juggy undercut; once this is solid the mext moves feel ok. Hopefully I'll do it soon as its chewing up my shoes! Linked second half of boulder a few times, involving wild cut loose on crimps, and banged out the same headwall links as last time. Might as well start having redpoints now, once I get through the start I stand a reasonable chance of doing it.

Need to do some training again but I am enjoying going outside a lot and feel as though I am climbing pretty well so not sure I want to change too much. Could at least do some general conditioning i suppose!

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#7 Re: Power Club 534 1-7 June
June 08, 2020, 03:43:08 pm
M - Early morning trip up to Shipley. Lots of cars and fog walkers there when we got there. Did a few of the problems in the Leeper area that I’d never done before and then wandered down and did Parker in a few goes, about twenty years after the last time I did it.

T - Quick trip to Hobson Moor Quarry in the morning. Just a bit of traversing. Was great until it warmed up and got just too hot. Another revisiting my youth trip as last time I was there was between college and full time work 32 years ago.
Attempt a run outside as temperatures a little cooler than they have been.

W - Just a steady run, due to the rain.

T -Nip up to Caley in the morning. Do some bits and bobs around Fork Lightning Crack. Get more established on Pebble Wall than I expected before the rain came and I had to bag it. On the way home it appeared that it was the only place on West Yorkshire where it was raining.
10k run when I get home.

F - Quick nip up to Ilkley before the predicted rain came. Same benchmark problems as last week but get them done a bit quicker and a bit more solid.
10k in the afternoon.

S - Just a bit of stretching.

S - Fifteen minutes core work.

Another reasonable week. Getting out plenty and weight still creeping downwards.

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#8 Re: Power Club 534 1-7 June
June 08, 2020, 03:52:34 pm
M - Total slammed by Sunday night shift. Only managed 20min break out of 13 hours.

T - Impossible to be fully recovered but took opportunity to get out to St Aldhelm’s. Felt ok, but realistically wasn’t at best. Warmed up on Notley boulder which is mostly 6Bs. Failed to do a traverse link up that would have been about 6C when I tore off a hold and landed on my back in a bush. Then went on to try Aeolian Sky 7A, a steep basic crimp line that I thought might be flashable with all the lockdown training. Despite waiting for evening shade it was still quite warm.

Got completely spanked. Wasn’t even close to doing one move in particular. Felt very thin. Am sure that various things could have been better; sleep, temp, skin, but not sure I’d have managed it even if they were. Still it’s an excellent problem and is will be back for it at some point.

W - rest

T - DOMS in left arm. Rest.

F - Few unstructured hangs to work out the pain in my arm. Much improved after.

S - Rest

S - Pinch block repeaters with 22.5kg.

Not much training this week, but needed a break. Results on rock still yet to be seen. Next couple of weeks are fairly nights heavy, so opportunities to get out will be limited. Will try make the most of what I can, hopefully do some sport soon.

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#9 Re: Power Club 534 1-7 June
June 08, 2020, 04:43:57 pm
M: Bench press up to 140lb added X3 *3 sets. Shoulder press 35lb X8 *3 sets. Rotator cuff exercises. Lattice high-intensity core *3sets

T: 3.15 mile run, 27:27. Avg HR 162. First ever 5K run! 50 pull-ups. Weighted pull-ups up to +70lb X3 *3sets. Offset pull-ups X3 *3sets. 40lb bicep curl X6 *3sets.

W: 100 press-ups. 50 Ab-wheel roll-outs. Overhead press up to 100lb X5 *3sets. Rotator cuff exercises.

T: 2 mile run, 16:18. Avg HR 162. 400m PR, 2 mile PR. 25 pull-ups. Weighted pull-ups up to 80lb X3 *3sets. Offset pull-ups X3 *3sets. Frenchies Max (2 cycles only!) *3 sets. Bicep curl 40lb X5 *3sets. Lower body stretching

F: Lower body exercises. 300 core movements

Sun: Solo 14ers in the Sawatch Range. Mt Belford (14,197ft) and Mt Oxford (14,160ft). 13 miles, 6,500ft ascent. Started at 0245, back down by 1030. No acclimatisation, high winds  and a lot of elevation gain made this tough.

Battered from the hike but finger swelling down with ROM back. Going to start loading on FB this week

Bradders

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#10 Re: Power Club 534 1-7 June
June 08, 2020, 05:16:07 pm
M - bit of stretching first thing, then hangboard one arm repeaters 6/4s 3r on outside BM2k slots. 3x half crimp -10kg & 3x 4 finger open -5kg. Bit weird, simultaneously hard and steady. 90 minute board session after, normal advanced warm ups and attempts on 4 projects.

T - 30 mins yoga

W - hangboard. Found I can hang one arm on a 35mm edge open handed w/ 5kg in the other hand. Felt like a total hero. Then same one arm repeaters session as Monday but also added 8 pull ups on a 19mm edge after each set. All felt steady this time. After did 2 arm repeaters, 2x 7/3 6r +20kg 19mm edge, 2x medium slopers bodyweight and 2x supinated half crimp 19mm.

T - Lees Bottom. Short session on Under the Greenwood Tree. Last time trying it I couldn't touch the big move to the slot jug, but did it in a few goes this time and linked to that point from start. Felt kind of strong but with zero endurance, like I could do a couple of moves easily and then I was done. Finished trying Creosote into A6 and did it in two halves but again couldn't link. Arms just too tired from day before so wasn't a long session!

F - 3.5km walk round Ilkley Moor, beautiful evening.

S - 90 minute board project session. Really slow getting going but eventually warmed into it. Attempts on 5 projects making some progress including matching high points on 2. After did a 4x4s session. Same 4 problems as previous weeks. Was going really well until last set, where on 2nd problem I caught a hold wrong and had to try really hard to finish it off. Used up all my energy on that and dropped the last two problems near the top of both. Good though. 6.5km walk in the afternoon.

S - 7km walk and stretching after

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#11 Re: Power Club 534 1-7 June
June 08, 2020, 05:44:27 pm
2 week entry, oops!

Goals: i) Exercise everday ii) End lockdown fitter, iii) Maintain finger strength

25th - 31st May:

M. 3.6 km run
T. Nesscliffe - warmed up bouldering on the hawk wall, quite nice. Put a top rope on Yukan ii and had 2 burns. Sussed out all the moves, its a lovely feature and a great route. I didn't think I would, but I'm getting drawn into the thought doing it on lead.
W. 15 minute HIIT.
T. 20 minutes doing sweet fa on the fingerboard.
F. Hard 20 min HIIT.
S. Fuck all.
S. 15 min HIIT. Fingerboard - repeaters.

1st - 7th June:

M.
T.
W. 15 min HIIT. Fingerboard - 2 arm max hangs.
T. 15 min HIIT.
F.
S. 15 min HIIT.
S. Chee Dale - psyche and a new found sense of adventure got the better of me and we binned off the usual wet weather sport options and headed for Chee Tor. Totally pointless, everything soaked, turned around and climbed some thing on Rhubarb Buttress which was also soaking between the final bolt and the lower off. Did some shite bouldering for 30 mins at Dogs Dinner with no pads and fucked off home - class.

Major fail on goal one. Back at work now and fully reminded of how precious time is.

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#12 Re: Power Club 534 1-7 June
June 08, 2020, 07:36:04 pm
Good gainz Bradders, JohnM another busy week! and keep the faith Sharky.

Bits and bobs for me this week...

Mon: Rest

Tu: Board day. Bastard hard day at work (8 hour zoom meeting that I was up super early to prepare for). Had time for a 45 min board session before dinner. Didnt really warm up properly and it was really really hot. Stiff triceps all the way through. Hate having to rush a session..

We: 1 arm day. 2x -12, 2x -9 - stopped as achy left tricep - messed about with some one arm hands on smaller hold (25mm - one pad)..

Thu: Wilton 4 late in the evening. Re-worked a 7A arete thats one of the few problems I've put up - and couldnt do it! Ha! However - made some big progress on another 7C (Nemesis) by pulling hard and thinking about body position. Got to making the final move (in a very crap way) - none the less big progress on that.

Fri: Day trip to Hull to make sure my house there was OK (been empty since week before lockdown). Thankfully it was fine. 2-3 hours gardening - distance meeting some friends - then stopped in at Church on the way back. Started raining just after finishing warming up. Managed another 20 min in the pissing hail/rain before my outer mat was just getting stupidly wet. BUT - first real benchmark of a lime problem before and after lockdown training (Gullivers Travels). Very positive - moving well - only had two attempts but got up to the gaston very smoothly which before has always been a realy fight all the way. Felt like I had something in reserve. Damned rain.

Sa: One arm day. Whilst in Hull I also picked up some weights I had there - so now had more than 12kg in proper weights -so did some assisted 1 arm pull ups. 3x -18, 2x -16, 2x -14, -12 was my limit. Then right arm ran out of juice. Then some hangs on a 25mm edge. Went from -18, -16, -15 on half crimp then my right hand didnt want to do any more. Useful benchmarks.

Su: Blackstone late afternoon. Saw JamieG and friend (hello!). Light drizzle to start didnt help the crimpy 7B recalibrate (that I really wanted to polish off having come close before). Big lock off on left arm/shoulder and reach up, share and pop. More in the tank now for the lock off but it wasnt goign to happen. Did all the moves - overlapping etc.. but a bit sppogy and damp in the corner under the main crag. Went to try Underdog - figured out what to do with the first move. Lost lots of skin - super sharp devon granite style crystals sticking out on an arete you have to slap for. Next time etc...

Decent end to a scrappy week training wise. Benchmarks interesting - found a thread on here from 2014 when I was trying assisted one armers last. My best then was -14 assist. Now -12. But - then I was 74kg and now 70. Ha - I'm 2kg weaker :D Still - first go at one arm pull up stuff for ages so might be better next time - getting used to it etc.. My elbows are still holding together.....

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#13 Re: Power Club 534 1-7 June
June 09, 2020, 10:01:05 am
M - 30 min run
T - Nip up to Caley, too humid really but good to be. Got rained on which was nice. Tried not my stile again (bit more stable with the heel but hands were greasing up on the slopers. Went to The Groove and had my best go at the big rockover and did most the easier problems round there.
T - 1 hour run. Shins are happy now the ground on the moor has softened up with the rain.
S - 20 minute run
S - Robin Proctors Scar, got pumped on the route I thought I’d warm up on. Lost the psyche. Did a few other 6a(+) routes then flashed The Shield on top rope. Had a go on lead but I’m a wobbler as soon as I’m above the bolt. Took the fall though which hopefully goes some way to addressing that... Good day out

Weight 80.5kg avg which is lowest this year happy days. Think I did a core workout one day and have been doing pull-ups whenever I walk under the bar

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#14 Re: Power Club 534 1-7 June
June 09, 2020, 10:45:47 am
JohnM. Usual caveats of internet diagnosis but it does sound like you had three big days on the trot even by your strandards. Feeling wiped out for a couple of days after this might not unusual. Hope it’s nothing more than this.

M - Weighted pull-ups (sets of 3 reps, 93kg load)
T - Shoulder strength exercises: IYTs, planks, handstands.
W - Shoulder strength exercises
T - Shoulder strength exercises
F - Shoulder strength exercises
S - Shoulder strength exercises
S - Shoulder strength exercises. Hip flexibility: active flexion, plie squats.
M - Weighted pull-ups. Shoulder strength.
T - Hip flexibility- active flexion, active flexion-exernal rotation (frog), plié squats.
W - Shoulder strength exercises
T - Weighted pull-ups (sets of 3 reps, 95kg load). Hip flexibility.
F - Shoulder strength. Hip flexibility.
S - Fingers: 18mm edge pickups, gentle session to test left middle finger. Hip flexibility.
S - Weighted pull-ups (sets of 3 reps, 95kg load). Hip flexibility.

Plus a brisk walk/slow shuffle for 7-10km every day.

Week off from pull exercises then upped the weight on the pull-ups and started easing back into finger boarding. No major aches or pains with either, tho’ being very cautious with the left hand. A new fingerboard is due to arrive shortly.

Borrowing the 52 years / 520 routes / 5200 pitches Verdon guide. Very inspiring! Motivation to do some 80s style Froggy stretching, in a 21st century active style.

Big anniversary on Sunday, didn’t spend it half way up El Cap. or clipping the chains on my proj. at Ceuse. These will just have to wait.


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#15 Re: Power Club 534 1-7 June
June 09, 2020, 01:15:22 pm
Easy / finger friendly week

M - 30 minutes easy climbing on 10ish degree board
stretch

T mtb with nipper. 12km but had to cut it short after she crashed.

W - 30 minutes as per Monday. 3 x 5min core circuits

Th easy bloddering at Stanage far right, 3 x 2.5 min core circuits

F 30 mins easy board, 3 x harder core circuits
stretch

S 18km mtb

S 30 minutes easy, 3 x 4 minutes core circuits

Struggling for motivation. Odd, thought that was something that happened to other people.

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#16 Re: Power Club 534 1-7 June
June 09, 2020, 03:08:26 pm
Power Club

Mon - board, circuit. Various bits then 1-23 45" rest 23-top. Then 15-top x 2. TB DL + farmer's finisher. 2' of loaded carries.
Tue - quick session, 10' of loaded carries.
Wed - board, circuit. 15-top x3. 10-top x1. Boxing bag.
Thu - loaded carries. 1' farmer's 80 kg + 30" shoulders 38 kg x10, 1'30" rests.
Fri - rest.
Sat - light work. One loaded carry for distance.
Sun - 30' of loaded carries.

 

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