After Myers, Moony had done Brad Pit with the toe on (see Hard Grit) at 8A I think. Then Le Menestrel stuck his heel on and pissed it.
There are some people who seem to be neurally wired in a way that makes them super co-ordinated that isn’t something that’s learned. I first noticed it at school with someone who was skinny with little muscle who was great at tennis and despite his unassuming physique somehow could effortlessly throw the javelin further than anybody else.
Quote from: Doylo on June 02, 2020, 01:45:07 pmAfter Myers, Moony had done Brad Pit with the toe on (see Hard Grit) at 8A I think. Then Le Menestrel stuck his heel on and pissed it.Myres jumped it, then Le Menestrel did it (gastoning the sidepull with his right hand then putting a left toe on), then Moony repeated it the same way, then Darren Stevenson did it the modern way (left heel on, left hand up to side pull). At this point it was still considered 8a. I did maybe the 10th-ish ascent in 1998(?), although it started getting done quite a lot after that, so who knows. It gradually came down to 7c+ and then by the time I wrote the guide in about 2003/4, 7c was being bandied about. I thought it was the same grade as Berezina and it climbed similarly (although in mirror) so opted for 7c in the guide.I think the "random local" that showed him round was Stu.
When I see Ned/Robins/Jordan make their heels stick
Quote from: Doylo on June 02, 2020, 02:25:19 pmWhen I see Ned/Robins/Jordan make their heels stickHave you seen his heel spur? He's possibly the only human upon which an Anasazi VCS has no void.
I think the true magicians are those who can look at a route or problem and see a solution that no one else can. For me the example that springs the mind is that of Marc Le Menestrel climbing Brad Pitt. (This is all dimly recalled from climbing magazine articles about 20 years ago).
The funny thing about this being split from the Ned thread is that I have saw Antoine le Menestrel, at least twice, on Facebook, talk about watching the recreation of hi solo of Revelations, climbed in the folm by Ned, dressed like AlM. AlM says something like " And I am seeing myself climb thees and it is eenteresting but then I am thinking, 'I thought i climbed it well, not static and unsure like thees,' then realising later it was not meee."I guess he considers himself a magician.
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