A bit of a round up of some developments over the last 18 months on limestone in the Matlock area. 6 new venues, over 150 problems in total. This is a brief rundown…
The PThis is the buttress 50 m left of the neglected tad venue Pic Tor. A range of problems from 5-7C/+, about 30+ independent straight ups and then loads of traverses and link ups and eliminate potential. The rock is good, flat landing, and stays dry in the rain, an all-round nice spot by the river. It does condense sometimes and did seep from Nov-March last winter but was always something climbable. It’s a great spot for a lantern session too.
It’s worth noting that the informal local agreement is for no bolting on the crag and please no more ivy removal at the right side.
The wall is set just above the well-used riverside path. Best behaviour as usual as it’s very public.
Initial development of central section of classic 7’s wasby Mark Evans. I did most of the other development and crag care with some help from Neil ‘Old Cheese’ Amos and Tim Banton, though Andy Banks made an early visit and added Chert Locker 7b+. Recently Mike Adams has finished off the remaining projects to give a couple of as yet un-named 7C’s. This is likely to become a popular place and has been the hub of the local scene over the spring and summer this year.
The main up problems will be in the new South Peak Lime guide though a few good ones missed the cut.
A old topo here which might get an update soon:
http://esotericboulderingcompanion.weebly.com/the-p.htmlThe COn the top plateau of that somewhat esoteric trad venue called High Tor are some awesome features called Roman and Fern Gully or ‘The Chasms’. The crag end of Roman Gully holds most of the bouldering whilst Fern Gully is more of an ‘experience’ . It might have endless potential for bolted routes of the bridging or back and footing style!
There are 40 problems in total, the main wall in the Roman Gully has some superb lines from 6A-7C and although the back wall is close it doesn’t limit the climbing. The pick of these could be Tales of Lanky Power 7A+, Achey Wall 6B, and the traverse line of No Entrée/Arms Alight 6B+/6C+. On the outer wall The Fashion Wagon 6A/B is a brilliant highball, one of the best locally.
Again this stays dry in light rain and is an unusual and atmospheric place to climb. Access is tolerated but please keep a low profile as the area is popular with local walkers and visitors alike.
http://esotericboulderingcompanion.weebly.com/the-c.htmlMost of the development done by myself and Tim though Robin Nichols and more recently Mike Adams added some harder stuff.
Crag S/ Shining Cliff MatlockThe second Shining Cliff in the Derwent valley just to be confusing. Lots of low grade routes here quietly developed by Andy Lewandowski, which we were unaware of during the initial bouldering development. It’s a good spot, maybe of most interest from a bouldering point of view, though one yew shrouded wall has some excellent routes which would make good highballs except for the tricky top outs. The pick of these is an E2 called Masquerade which I did back in May.
The rock is quite varied and has taken a while to mature into a fairly decent bouldering venue with interesting problems, some traverses and some highballs. The best line is maybe Chapel of Ease 7A/+, Director’s Cut and Take One are both good highballs around about 6B. Most things here have only had a couple of ascents and the grades will need some settling.
All the bouldering here developed by Tim and myself over the past year and then Mike Adams added a 7C+ called Invocation at the end of August, currently the hardest problem on the Matlock limestone.
This will be in the Peak Lime South guide but was still in development when it went to press so a few recent additions and extension/highball finishes will be missing.
Miner’s TenA wall of reef limestone nicely situated above Carsington village and overlooking the water. I developed by myself in May and June 2016. I’d known about this spot for a while so when Bonjoy mentioned he’d been fossil hunting up there I thought I’d better get organised. There are 9 straight ups 6A-6C and the 10th is a traverse which then gives links into the up lines from 6A+-7A+; 15 problems/links in total. This is a really lovely spot and the full traverse line is tough. The best of the rest is maybe the 6C The Dovegang Plot. All the problem names are linked to the local lead mining heritage. Again not many ascents to date, I think some are unrepeated. Likely will be damp over winter but is a great relaxed summer venue. No access issues but the cows can be inquisitive, not really a place for the pooch.
http://esotericboulderingcompanion.weebly.com/miners-ten.htmlThe 10 main problems here will be in the Peak Lime South guide.
ManystonesThis is the crag 500m beyond the cement factory visible from the top of Harborough The main wall is about 70ft high and of very good quality rock. Around the back of the main wall is a short wall of more good dolomitic limestone, very obscure but something different, maybe more of interest as a venue for routes. The best line is the traverse along the unique wave feature into the tall left wall; Pretty Girls Make Waves 6B.
The access situation is unknown but the bolting of the routes on the wall above the pond predates the bouldering. One for locals.
http://esotericboulderingcompanion.weebly.com/manystones.htmlFallgate Quarry, Amber ValleyThis is an interesting place though limited from a bouldering point of view it might just be worth a call in if you were tempted to visit the nearby Demonsdale problems mentioned in this thread.
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,27482.msg538162.html#msg538162There a five problems from 6A-6C which I did about a year ago. The best two are a 6A called Billy Crystal and a 6C Crystal Trips both on the main back wall. There’s a lot of rock here but no more from a bouldering point of view. Another very local’s venue.
