[HarryBD]

Same deal as Spidermonkey Will and more + asked to go on furlough from this week which was a whole load of stress. Business not doing well and they've started the process to change all our contracts to let them lay us off with no notice. All came out of the blue so that's been a bit of a shitter.

Kept my weight under 81kg avg again which I'm really happy about. Feel light and floaty on the bar and fingerboard and clunky and weird on the rock so hopefully when I get the hang of the climbing thing I'll feel good.

T - Glen, bit of a circuit and play on Red Baron which I managed to properly pull on for the first time.

T - Hitching Stone, sandbagged easy stuff which took some talking to myself. Couple of non-climbing groups of varying sobriety passed by who made L and I quite uncomfortable especially the lass with a fucking horrid cough...

F - Run 2 miles to stop me panicking about the shit at work

S - Walk at Rylstone, took boots and did a few easy things that got blown dry. Loved the 'knackered from the wind' feeling on the sofa at home after this.

S - Caley, flashed Our Father's Arete and repeated a couple of things. Head. Has. Gone. Took a good few goes to commit to the top of low pebble wall then did it a few times to reinforce that you don't need to be a gibbering wreck as soon as you're a bodylength from the pad. Played on Not My Stile and New Jerusalem and got close on the former but got a palm flapper 

[spidermonkey09]

Sorry to hear that Harry. My tips for furlough include Duolingo, lots of books and at least you can go climbing now. It was really shit when you couldnt go out at all!

Presumably they will be keeping you on until August at least as thats when the scheme ends? I have no idea when I will be going back, Might be July but wouldnt surprise me if i ended up going back part time from August to take advantage of that bit of the scheme. Its complicated by the fact that I suspect a significant pay cut will be forthcoming, which would push my salary well below the furlough 80%, which would be very hard to accept ... 

Most important bit of advice is to have a drink! 

[HarryBD]

Thanks for that. I appreciate I've been in and still am in a better situation than most and likely many on here. Yes a good opportunity to try to get through the pile of reading I've been building on the bedside table. I'd have thought they'd keep me on while it doesn't cost much extra but reckon there's a chance they'll get rid of me before I tick over 2yr (start of Aug). I'm viewing the furlough as a bit of a subsidised job-seeking period personally as I've not got tons of confidence in the same job being there in a few months time.

I hope that's not the case. I don't know what sort of work you do and what the market is like but there are still companies that are hiring that are mostly insulated from all of what's going on.

Advice taken and having a rather strong effect after a day in the sun on Barden Moor!

[Will Hunt]

Sorry to hear that, Harry. On the plus side, nearly getting up Not My Stile in terrible conditions means you must be going better than you think.

[monkoffunk]

Late one for me! Cool to see people getting out again, first time out for me in ages (November I think!)

M - St Aldhelm’s head. Arrived mid morning. Not much time in shade on upper tier. Mostly tried 7A called Strip Teasel. Climbing did not feel smooth at all. Got a bit overexcited and did not rest enough between goes, even though I was well aware I needed to. Finally figured out some beta that worked for me (zero technique, pull down hard) and on last go I hit crux hold, feet slipped, and pinged off, ripping a chunk out of my left ring finger tip.

Pretty much expected for first day back. Trying too hard in the heat, not enough water, very imprecise climbing. Despite all that was amazing being out again, and the views of the coast and sea made it worth it anyway.

T - Walk in the country side at an Iron Age hill fort with the wife.

W - Start of nights. Woke around 1600 feeling pretty groggy. Bit of a finger board session to clear head. No added weight, slightly struggling on crimps with split finger tip. Could body weight hang the BM2000 bottom crimps, not much
else.

Fine on the slopers though and did some foot on problems. With night shifts and the inevitable lack of sleep, combined with skin issues, unsure about how rest of week will go.

T - 3x10 hanging leg raises

F - Dead hangs

15mm BW 10 sec
10mm BW 10 sec
10mm +5kg 10 sec
10mm +10kg 5 sec
L10mm R8mm 6 sec

One arm, bottom middle BM2000 crimp:

-13.75kg:
RL 10 sec

-12.5kg:
R8 L7 sec
R7L10 sec
R7L8 sec
R8L8 sec

S - rest

S - Evening with good conditions. After warm up held the 8mm edge for 10sec BW. Had to take weight off last week to hold it. I’m sure thats technique/conditions related.

Horst style hangs:

15mm +20kg x3 10 sec
10mm +6.25kg 9,5,8 sec
15mm +20kg 9,5,7 sec
10mm (sure I did some more, but failed to record for some reason)

Wrist playing up a bit after that so stopped. Had injured wrist in past which do not want to repeat.

Over all, good to do some climbing, good to do any other training with night shifts.

[AJM]

What time does that stuff at St Aldhelms come into the sun? Thinking of going down early next week.....

[Will Hunt]

What time does that stuff at St Aldhelms come into the sun? Thinking of going down early next week.....

https://www.suncalc.org/

[monkoffunk]

What time does that stuff at St Aldhelms come into the sun? Thinking of going down early next week.....

The quarry at the top starts to get sun by midday so morning is best, earlier the better. I arrived around 0820 at car park, not sure if it’s open before 0800, read somewhere it might not be.

Dorset 6c wall gets shade again late afternoon, wasn’t fully in shade by 1600 when I was leaving, and imagine would still be warm there for a while.

Under-cliff is variable depending on the aspect of boulder. Problems on Notley boulder for example are on north face and were in shade most of day. Aeolian sky faces east, was getting shade after 1400.

Hope that’s some use!

[AJM]

Hope that’s some use!

Yes, that's great, thanks!