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Power Club 533 25 - 31 May (Read 3162 times)

shark

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Power Club 533 25 - 31 May
May 31, 2020, 11:30:56 am
11.8-10 Average  163.4 (down 0.6lbs)

M. Beautiful morning. Tor. Felt shonky warming up then struggled to hold one of the positions. Week 4 burnout innit. Sacked off and took dogs for a lovely walk down to Rubicon and back over the other side along Monsal trail - see below

T.

W. Nice day. Warm. Still. Crag X. Average connies. George from Manchester arrived then Jack Pal showed up near end of sess. Wasn’t sure whether I’d be up for climbing after Monday’s crash but had several goes trying JR. Best go getting slot but with only front 3 and not deep enough to reach to crimp. Still felt a bit unhappy and jaded and in need of a change of scene. Persuaded Tom to go sport climbing on way back.

T.

F. AM Chee Dale Cornice. First time putting on harness this year. Went on Roof Warrior by which I mean as far as the 4th bolt which of itself is a no star 7b+. Deciphered my beta notes from 2 years ago. 3 tie ins and didn’t link it. Tommy didn’t do much better. Funny moment when Andy Cave referred to K3 as K2. He might just sport climb these days but still a mountaineer at heart.

S.

S.


Crashed on Monday after intense week last week so easier week required. Typical pattern. Three weeks of progressively higher loads then an easy week needed - rinse and repeat. Felt I’d lost some of the love for bouldering at CragX so decided needed a change of scene hence Chee Dale.

Weight loss going ok. Slow but sure at about half a pound a week but at least reversed upward trend over last 3 weeks. Scary to think that even if I keep that up then it will take 20 weeks to get back to sub 11 stone again.

« Last Edit: May 31, 2020, 11:39:13 am by shark »

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#1 Re: Power Club 533 25 - 31 May
May 31, 2020, 11:48:14 am
Nice photo of the hounds  :)

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#2 Re: Power Club 533 25 - 31 May
May 31, 2020, 04:51:45 pm
A week off (training)...

Weds: Went to West Nab late evening. Had a bit of type 2 fun thrashing around finding things - but after quite a while managed to get Archery V6 - that fiend has in one of his grit oddities vids. Superb problem 3* Well chuffed to just squeak in an ascent on a warm evening of a gritstone arête/slab problem. Loved it.  One of those when you latch the top you don’t quite believe you’ve got it - and a wee surge of adrenaline hits.

Sat: Up at 5 - on rock at 6:30am. Wilton 3: Managed my longish standing project Starship 7C. Lovely morning - listen out for the cookoo in the vid below - no cars - no people just the lovely birdsong. Chuffed.



Went and had a play on some other stuff in W4 - but also spent a good while lying on my pads in the morning sun drinking coffee and feeling alright with the world.

Sun: Decided do do some one arm hangs... after all Monday is normally rest day :)

Wood FT

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#3 Re: Power Club 533 25 - 31 May
May 31, 2020, 04:53:43 pm
What a lovely looking spot

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#4 Re: Power Club 533 25 - 31 May
May 31, 2020, 06:10:40 pm
M - Post nights still recovering

T - St Aldhelm’s. Second day back on rock. Back to 7A I sliced open finger on last week. Did the stand second go and the sit first go after that. Felt way smoother. Still got totally shut down on the other 7s at top of quarry! Good volume day after that, 13 problems total mostly in 6s. Had a look at Aeolian Sky on the beach but didn’t try it. Seems like a good one to try and flash, super basic crimp pulling, should be what I’ve been training for!

W - Rest

T - Warm up drills ‘simulated climbing’ trying to mimic some more climbing specific movements on crimps.
Body weight hangs 8mm not quite 10 sec

Horst style hangs alternating between 10 and 15 mm with 5kg, 20kg respectively. Didn’t record times, but they were between 6-8 seconds. Low times in poor conditions.

Few edge pull ups
1.5 on 10mm
6.5 on 15mm

F - Yoga.
Press ups +20kg: 6,7
Hanging leg raises, I think 30 total
Front lever reps, maybe 10 or 20
One leg front lever holds, a few?

S - Back to nights, rest. Only one patient on our red ITU now! Good sign but still not massively optimistic about next few months/winter.

S - Yoga, rest.

Using night shifts as an excuse to get some rest (and probably better not to train hard without sleep). Plan to get back to St Aldhelm’s next week and give AS a good flash go. Unsure if temps will be great for that though! Probably will be the last time I can get psyched to walk all the way to undercliff for a while, although might return for the quarry stuff at some point.

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#5 Re: Power Club 533 25 - 31 May
May 31, 2020, 06:39:04 pm
Plan to get back to St Aldhelm’s next week and give AS a good flash go. Unsure if temps will be great for that though! Probably will be the last time I can get psyched to walk all the way to undercliff for a while, although might return for the quarry stuff at some point.

Im probably going to head over either Tues or Wed for a bit to check the place out - May see you there, from a socially appropriate distance of course!

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#6 Re: Power Club 533 25 - 31 May
May 31, 2020, 06:49:47 pm
Plan to get back to St Aldhelm’s next week and give AS a good flash go. Unsure if temps will be great for that though! Probably will be the last time I can get psyched to walk all the way to undercliff for a while, although might return for the quarry stuff at some point.

Im probably going to head over either Tues or Wed for a bit to check the place out - May see you there, from a socially appropriate distance of course!

 :thumbsup:

I’ll prob be there Tuesday afternoon!

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#7 Re: Power Club 533 25 - 31 May
May 31, 2020, 07:07:32 pm
TT, I was hoping for a full minute's self-interview in the last bit of that video, How Did It Feel etc etc....

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#8 Re: Power Club 533 25 - 31 May
May 31, 2020, 07:33:29 pm
TT, I was hoping for a full minute's self-interview in the last bit of that video, How Did It Feel etc etc....

What I had for breakfast and how much my morning dump weighed? 😃

The last 30-40 secs is a bit self indulgent (sorry) but I quite like how it recorded how I feel after doing a project - and then the calling cookoo draws me back to my surroundings.

For my next 7C I’ll do some fuck yeahs and rip my T shirt off in front of the camera. It’s a promise 😃

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#9 Re: Power Club 533 25 - 31 May
May 31, 2020, 08:16:16 pm
I meant some dry introspection about conditions and the magnificence of Wiltons and a direct comparison with the Depot 50'  board etc.... no whooping nor anything. Yes morning dump would have been fine if that was a key factor in the send.

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#10 Re: Power Club 533 25 - 31 May
June 01, 2020, 09:02:12 am
Monday: Rest.
Tuesday: Rest.
Wednesday: Garden board session. Tried an ancap-style session as the holds would be better and less tweaky on my wrist. Did 12 warm-up problems, rested, then attempted to do 8 reps of a 13-move problem with 1:30 rest between reps. Failed miserably and stopped after 6th rep as skin was getting sore (hot evening).
Thursday: Rest.
Friday: Fingerboard and misc. other exercise: 5 x 20sec 1-arm assisted hangs @ 70% bodyweight per arm, 25mm edge.
Saturday: Rest.
Sunday: Fingerboard and misc. other exercise: 5 x 20sec 1-arm assisted hangs @ 70% bodyweight per arm, 25mm edge. First time I'd tried doing any push-ups since tweaking my wrist - seemed to hold up ok.

Fingerboarding is going ok, will up the difficulty this week as I can easily go past 20sec with current assistance on 25mm edge. Right little finger is feeling a bit sore at times which I've kind of been ignoring as it's only the little finger but think I need to actually take heed of the warning before I properly injure it. Wrist seems ok now, but I'm wary of doing things that may aggravate it which includes any board problem that involves a pinch or using a thumb-catch with the right hand.


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#11 Re: Power Club 533 25 - 31 May
June 01, 2020, 09:10:54 am
Well done TT, that looks like a good problem.


Good week this week. Compressed sessions into 4 days to get 3 full rest days, instead of 5 / 2 previous weeks and maybe feel better for it.

M - West Chevin in the afternoon. Busy but with partner and nice spot for her. Did all the nice 6s around Homeland, some of which were excellent, then did Eat the Light 2nd go; should have worn a good shoe on my 1st. Back home and did a 4x4s session. This felt absolutely nails, dropped problems in all of the last 3 sets and didn't complete the 4th problem in the last 3 either. Third day on I suppose and it was boiling.

T - rest

W - one arm repeaters. During warm up found I can now 10s hang the outside slots on the BM2k open handed at bodyweight. Amazing, never even been close to this before. 6 sets of 3r 6/4s, alternating between half crimp and open on the outside slots. Upped the assistance to -12kg on the half crimp which felt better than last week, but dropped open to -5kg which also felt good but hard. Superset 5 pull ups on a 19mm edge after each set. Then did 2 arm repeaters 6r 7/3s 2x +15kg 19mm edge half crimp, 2x medium slopers bodyweight and 2x supinated half crimp 19mm edge.

T - early morning board session. Mixed. New high point on main proj dropping move 10/11, but struggled on others. In the evening went to Eavestone. Did a couple of nice things on the South Bank Boulder, then tried Robbed at Dunn Point. Close but no cigar. Fingers over the top half a dozen times but couldn't quite stick it. Keen to go back, really cool problem. Quite pleased to get close actually after training and on a hot day, plus first time I got into position for the last move it looked impossible! I suck at dynos as well.

F - rest

S - morning one arm repeaters. 6x 3r 6/4s, 3x half crimp -10kg and 3x open -5kg. Short rests this time, 2 mins between each set. Completed all hangs bar very last one. Weird session in that I had to try hard but it also felt fairly steady.

In the evening did a board session. Tried a few harder mediums trying to repeat perfectly. Matched high point on 11 move proj but couldn't really touch much else. Did an hour and 10 and felt like I tried hard.

S - rest. Exhausted.

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#12 Re: Power Club 533 25 - 31 May
June 01, 2020, 09:31:09 am
Problem looks mint TT. Well done.

This week’s plan is to carry on like last week, getting out and about and concentrating on being less of a lard arse.

M - Nowt (not sure how that fits with the plan)

T - Trip up to Ilkley Rocky Valley. Do some sixes and low sevens but also do a lot of just larking about up slabs without using your hands followed by a concerted effort to walk up a slab backwards with no hands that ends on every attempt with a run or a slide back down. Very entertaining.
Get a 10k run done when I get home and finish off with some core work.

W - Hetchell. Get some distance in working on the traverse plus play with some up problems until the sharpness of the rock starts to take its toll on my fingers and I decide to call it a draw. Do really like it as a venue.
Another 10k and another core session.

T - Go up to Calf in the morning. Work my way through some of the easier problems, in order to set some benchmarks for myself. Very chilled.
On the way home went to scope out Lindley Moor Edge, which I’d found in an old YG guidebook. Not the mother lode but worth a visit, given that it’s so close.

F -  West Chevin, bit of traversing and a bit of up. Safe to say fingers are a bit tender by the end of the session.

S - Rest except a walk with Mrs B.

S - As above

Another satisfying week. Weight still going down slowly but steadily. Feel like I’m moving reasonably well again and weight still heading in the right direction. One more week in the bag.

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#13 Re: Power Club 533 25 - 31 May
June 01, 2020, 09:50:46 am
M - Hollywood Bowl. Had a go on Sunset Boulevard. Got up to the start of the upper crux and fell off when I missed the undercut in the upper crack. Will try a different sequence next time I go but fingers are cut to ribbons in all sorts of weird places so need to let the skin grow back first.

W - Taking photos in the Rocky Valley for yon book. Soloed a VD, seconded a VS.

T - Earl Crag for photos again. Did a few problems up to 6B+, one of which was the incredibly good Ron's Groove next to the John Dunne Slap. Doesn't seem to get done. Baffling.

S - a very enjoyable hour and a quarter's cycle ride then a garden day.

S - Trow Gill. Was psyched for Petulant Frenzy. Got out of bed too late and had to get back for 5 so didn't have much time. And there were more people climbing on the south side than I've seen before so the routes were generally oversubscribed. Ended up doing very little climbing indeed, but we had a good craic so whatever. Must go back and give Petulant a proper go. Ran back to the car to make it home in time for childcare stuff. Legs ruined the next day.

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#14 Re: Power Club 533 25 - 31 May
June 01, 2020, 09:54:18 am
Nice one TT and Bradders for the gainz.

Dropped about half a kilo on avg this week which is movement in the right direction. Wrist still tweaky so no pressups and avoided the pull-up bar as I’ve felt some elbow pain. Done some wrist curls with a tin of beans and finger eccentric things with the metolius red ball thing. Never usually bother with (p)rehab so that’s good.

M - Run 20 mins

T - Run 1hr and pull-up max effort of 17, core

W - Walk and a bit of pottering at deer gallows

T - West Chevin, did a bunch of F6s on ground up wall which has been cleaned right up. Tried Eat the Light until my skin was fucked. Climbing the brown stuff when it’s hot isn’t great is it.

F - Run 30 mins, core

S - Trad at Twistleton Scar. 9 routes done in the day which felt like good going in the heat. Best were The Candle which involves a committing traverse and then a lovely pocketed slab, and Sickle Direct, a corner with some sustained bridging or laybacking, this was first route of the day and the calves were not happy. Great to be out on trad again and felt like I got my head back quite quickly. Still shit myself whenever I’m a couple of feet above gear but I was like that before lockdown so that’s fine.

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#15 Re: Power Club 533 25 - 31 May
June 01, 2020, 09:55:00 am
Power Club

Mon - very short on time, quick boxing bag session.
Tue - board, one foot boudering on extended version of problem 1 (15 moves instead of 12) + 8 kg, +2 kg. Brilliant. Rings finisher 30" very hard.
Wed - short on time again, pull ups finisher, clean and press finisher, TBDL finisher (70 kg).
Thu - rest.
Fri - fingers, garage session after 6 weeks. Still strong. Clean and press 5x5. Glutes. Farmer's 45/15 x6.
Sat - boxing bag, power.
Sun - unplanned rest.

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#16 Re: Power Club 533 25 - 31 May
June 01, 2020, 10:38:02 am
Good effort TT!

M - got confused on the last PC due to the bank holiday weekend; this was the day I was at Masson Lees. Right tricep felt a bit tweaky at the end so decided on a few rest days.

T - rest. Diligent tricep exercises and therabanding.

W - Ditto.

T - Chee Dale Cornice. Got back on Powerplant after 'warming up' on Martial Music, which is easily the grimmest of the 7s on that bit of wall. Nearly got through the crux first go which was a pleasant surprise. Next go I got the knee bar perfectly and managed to static the next move to a sidepull which is normally a bit wild. Unfortunately I also got my feet too high and climbd myself into a cul-de-sac. Annoying as I was pissing it to there. I got through the crux on the next go and fell off the last hard move on the headwall when I powered out. Had nothing left for a final go and after a few failed attempts I let someone else strip it! Close to doing it in two sessions which would have been great but it seems to matter less at the moment.

F - Some core after I got incredibly bored in the house. No arm pain which was pleasing.

S - Cornice again. Warmed up on Egyptian Bizarre which I thought was very good. Scott had put the gear in Powerplant so had a go and scraped through the crux, although it didn't feel as easy as Thursday. Felt worse on the first moves of the headwall but the second half felt easy and all of a sudden I was at the rest. Finished it without any alarms; great to get the first 8 of the year boxed off, and its the quickest I've ever done an 8a by a distance which is a good sign. Decided to do some easier ticks for the rest of the day. Pumped off the top of Big Zipper putting the clips in and did it next go, then a cool but nails 6c+/7a towards the steeper end and finally a really good but weirdly unstarred 6b to finish with.

S - Felt ok so decided to do some max hangs. Did a thorough warm up which in hindsight might have emptied the tank a bit prematurely. Attempted a set with 5kg assist which went well to start with and tailed off a bit towards the end. Not bad though considering second day on and the general slide in training discipline lately...

Pleased to get Powerplant done and looking forward to having a look at RnP tomorrow. Still no idea when I'm going back to work. Weather looks like its changing in a few days predictably enough.

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#17 Re: Power Club 533 25 - 31 May
June 01, 2020, 10:49:58 am
S - Trad at Twistleton Scar. 9 routes done in the day which felt like good going in the heat. Best were The Candle which involves a committing traverse and then a lovely pocketed slab, and Sickle Direct, a corner with some sustained bridging or laybacking, this was first route of the day and the calves were not happy. Great to be out on trad again and felt like I got my head back quite quickly. Still shit myself whenever I’m a couple of feet above gear but I was like that before lockdown so that’s fine.

You know, given the shambolic performance I witnessed on Black Wall, I'm quite impressed with this. If you enjoyed The Candle then you really must go back and do Curving Crack. Just take care to make sure you protect it well.

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#18 Re: Power Club 533 25 - 31 May
June 01, 2020, 10:58:35 am
Good work TT and SM


M -
AM - 6km family walk
PM - 13km mtb ride. First time for a while, felt hard

T
board - no crimping
3x pike pressups
3x crane/frog stands
2 sets dips
3x5mins Core circuit

Wanted to do more but nipper was demanding my time
W - Hurty.
Another walk AM.
Stretch PM

Th
Board,still avoiding crimping on LH

F -
3 sets offset scap pullups
3 sets assissted 10s static scap holds one arm -8kg L -6kg R
3 sets offset pullups
3 sets TRX low row
3 x Band IYT flows
3 x band Rev Ys & Ts
3x Wall hollow bodies Repeaters
Face Pulls
3x Core circuits
Single straight leg DL 18kg, Single leg hip thrust 18kg, Floor slides.

S - 10km walk AM
Meant to stretch...

S 3x10mins LI on low angle board
Eve 14km mtb.
Dusk walk on Houndkirk

Wank week, half term so kids needed entertaining, injured and far too warm.  Watched what I ate, did three fasted walks and lost precisley fuck all weight.  Can only assume I've gained muscle from all the conditioining work. Yeah right.

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#19 Re: Power Club 533 25 - 31 May
June 01, 2020, 11:19:22 am
You know, given the shambolic performance I witnessed on Black Wall, I'm quite impressed with this. If you enjoyed The Candle then you really must go back and do Curving Crack. Just take care to make sure you protect it well.

I’ll take that as a compliment, thought it was great yeah and being able to stand on a ledge halfway up means my appalling lack of fitness isn’t exposed. Would definitely go back for a few things.

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#20 Re: Power Club 533 25 - 31 May
June 01, 2020, 11:33:30 am
M- Walked to Stanage and spent nearly three hours photographing climbers up and down the Plantation and Popular areas. Last bank holiday I was here it was absolutely deserted, this time it was exactly like a normal BH Monday- families eating picnics on the top, youths playing music and smoking weed in Robin Hood’s Cave, loads of climbers with top ropes, drones, dog tents, communication headsets(!) etc. To be honest while neither scene is my ideal Stanage situation I did actually prefer the return to normality of the second one- it didn’t feel like everyone was infecting each other or anything. Walking back was sheer pain from my weakened lockdown legs but I did it in the same time I did the walk over there so pleased with that.

T- Battered. Rest.

W- More rest.

T- Dumbell complex in the day, upped the weight to 6kg  :strongbench:. After one set I had the bright idea of using two dumbbells at once to speed things up- turns out doing most of the exercises with the same weight in each hand is markedly harder than doing it one at a time so had to sack that.

Deadlifted in the evening. 2 reps at 50, 60, 70, 80, 90 & 100kg as usual, couldn’t do heavier as usual.

F- Rest.

S- Shining Clough. First time I’ve climbed since mid-March, first time I’ve been rock climbing since the first week of January, by far the longest car journey since the start of lockdown too.

Couldn’t get a space in the best little car park so had to walk from Torside which added an extra few miles to the walk in and out. Felt very unsure about my leading abilities and as psyched to snap pictures as to climb so started by leading a Diff (I think the last time I roped up for a Diff may have been my first ever day leading!) which was fine. Tried to second a short, sharp E1 however and got ridiculously pumped very quickly and could barely do some of the moves. After that and a discussion with my partners about my recurrent climbing nightmares I felt a lot more confident and led two Severes which felt like a doddle and seconded utterly fantastic HVS East Rib clean, (although I found it very pumpy) between taking photos. Ace day but battered by walk out.

S- Filming very early (left home at 6AM) which was great. Extreme rest PM.

After Saturday’s walkout my back was very sore and the T9 vertebrae (the one that was torn in half in my accident  :sick:) was scarily swollen. This swelling had completely gone by the next afternoon but I did have some tingling near it which is now also almost gone- this is the region of my most spectacular rob breakage and the one I normally get back pain in. I’m assuming this was due to the vertebrae being irritated by a cam digging into it or something (It’s the apex of my. now very convex back) rather than anything more structural as I didn’t have any problems that limited strength or movement but maybe something to watch.

Getting out of the lockdown swamp now- weight going back in the right direction, stretching again and so good to get out climbing and filming.

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#21 Re: Power Club 533 25 - 31 May
June 01, 2020, 01:44:48 pm
M: Clear Creek Canyon - Elk Creek Boulders. Wandered up to this boulder in a beuatiful setting. High-quality Gneiss but some dodgy landings under some problems. Did the V5, Prairie Dog then added a harder variant, Prairie Lunge V6. Went to try Animal but busy so ended up doing some density hangs at home.


T: 2.6 mile run, 24:08. Avg HR 163. 50 press-ups, Lower Body weights, Shoulder press, 50 Ab-wheel roll-outs, rotator cuff exercises

W: Lower body stretching, Density hangs. 35mm, 30s. 1X-40lb, 4X-30lb

T: 2 mile run, 17:54. Avg HR 160. Rotator cuff exercises. Lock-off test - 17 pull-ups, 37s two-arm lock-off, -30lb L, -20lb R

F: Lower body stretching. Density hangs. 35mm, 30s, 3X-30lb, 2X-20lb

S: 2 mile walk round Harriman Lake with pup

S: Wild Basin, RMNP. First day in the park! Road to TH closed, adding an extra 2.2m each way to the approach. Ended up doing 8.7 miles today (with more while scrambling about the talus). Was mega to see Aidan's Railway. Tried Hamburglar V8 and got v close to sending many many times... This made (slightly) recovering finger v sore. Lots of bushwhacking to find Riverside boulders to no avail. Up to Thug Roof but finger too sore to pull on anything...

Thought I could keep climbing while finger slowly recovered, turns out I was wrong. Back to finger rehab (properly this time) I go... Exactly the same as this time last year - out with a pulley injury end of May, back on it mid-July. Fingers crossed for a speedy recovery so I don't miss too much of the alpine season.

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#22 Re: Power Club 533 25 - 31 May
June 02, 2020, 07:49:20 am
Weight: 145-147lbs

M: Rest

T: My attempt at the Austrian Fastest Known Time (FKT) series "trail of the month". The was a beautiful but brutal trail run over 30km with 2400m elevation gain through the Karwendel mountain range taking in the exposed Knappensteig and passing Hallerangerhaus which has huge laser-cut limestone big walls all around. Unfortunately some busybody stopped me for 5-10 minutes on the Knappensteig saying that is was not a trail for running and that he was going to report me and "make a few calls"! Fortunately I was still able to achieve my target time of under 5 hours but it brought me to the point of almost puking, which was unfortunate for the mountain biker who had just pulled up along side my car at the same moment I swung the door open to dry retch! I was pretty pleased to be sitting in 5th position but this turned out to be a very false position as all the pros and sponsored athletes turned up over the next few days and I ended up in the low 20s!   

W: Max. hangs. Still not got into stable routine for this. During lockdown I managed to hang 32kg on a 15mm edge but now I am struggling with 25kg. I think I need to try and ignore what I think I should be hanging and just except that I have to start again from 20kg and build from there. I also tried to do one of Neil Greshams pullup, core and repeater workouts but gave up in the first set. I can't do such an intense session after running hard the day before. Not managed another set of these since the first one 2 weeks before. It is so hard and intense I need to be fresh to complete the routine and I just haven't been.

T: Rest

F: Trail run up the Rosskogel. Summer down below but winter on top! 16km with 1400m elevation gain.

S: Climbing at Berglsteiner See. Went to a big boulder in the forest which basically only has a 9a and an 8b. I tried the 8b which is about 4 bolts worth of climbing so feels brutally hard. I got reasonably close but conditions were still and humid in the forest so I kept sliding of a sloping hold that you also have to clip off right after the crux. I have been trying more short 8bs so far this year whereas normally I would avoid anything in that style above 7c as I usually get spanked. I feel a bit stronger on them this year though thanks to the basic training during the lockdown and I am hoping to take any gains from short PE onto longer routes I want to try.

S: Rest

A good week overall with lots of resting. Finding the balance between hard/quality training sessions whilst still getting out there on rock and running continues!

 

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