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Climbing and getting older (Read 2421 times)

webbo

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#25 Re: Climbing and getting older
May 28, 2020, 09:42:00 pm
I think Lyndford was seeking spiritual help from his pharmacist at that time.

moose

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#26 Re: Climbing and getting older
May 28, 2020, 09:42:20 pm
Elite level, of course itís physical too. And at a much younger age. See pro footballers retired by mid-thirties.

I agree in part, but in many sports there are economic factors that don't exist in climbing.  Elite performance in professional sports requires both that the player is physically capable of elite performance, and that a team is willing to pay for it.

Player salaries tend to climb with age, and even if an older player is still productive, there is a pressure to replace them with a younger, cheaper model.  It happens in football to a degree (although, age curves by various analytics firms suggest players in speed positions, like wingers, really do become less productive after ~28 y.o.).  The most brutal example is the NFL market for running backs - very few, no matter how productive, get a decent contract after their cost-controlled rookie deal.  The talent pool is so deep that as soon as a running back's rookie contract expires, they are shipped out and replaced with a cheap, young new rookie, even if they are still capable of elite performance.  Professional sports probably also have more injury issues than people climbing for their own pleasure.  A team will be unwilling to keep paying a player with an injury history, whereas if you are doing it for yourself you can rest and then resume at a high level. 

webbo

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#27 Re: Climbing and getting older
May 28, 2020, 09:45:59 pm
The simple answer is to be mediocre at the start, then itís not so hard to maintain that standard to an old age.

moose

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#28 Re: Climbing and getting older
May 28, 2020, 09:48:22 pm
Interesting looking at this across different sports... Many runners continue well into their late 30ís at elite level. Didnít Lyndford Christie win his gold at 39?

He also tested positive for nandrolone, with around 100x the "natural" level of its metabolites and promptly retired.  Perhaps the key for performance in middle age is "better living through chemistry".

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#29 Re: Climbing and getting older
May 28, 2020, 09:52:11 pm
Elite level, of course itís physical too. And at a much younger age. See pro footballers retired by mid-thirties.

I agree in part, but in many sports there are economic factors that don't exist in climbing.  Elite performance in professional sports requires both that the player is physically capable of elite performance, and that a team is willing to pay for it.

Player salaries tend to climb with age, and even if an older player is still productive, there is a pressure to replace them with a younger, cheaper model.  It happens in football to a degree (although, age curves by various analytics firms suggest players in speed positions, like wingers, really do become less productive after ~28 y.o.).  The most brutal example is the NFL market for running backs - very few, no matter how productive, get a decent contract after their cost-controlled rookie deal.  The talent pool is so deep that as soon as a running back's rookie contract expires, they are shipped out and replaced with a cheap, young new rookie, even if they are still capable of elite performance.  Professional sports probably also have more injury issues than people climbing for their own pleasure.  A team will be unwilling to keep paying a player with an injury history, whereas if you are doing it for yourself you can rest and then resume at a high level.

ďProfessional sports have more injury issuesĒ?

Yer haviní a laugh mate! Let me tell you.

Iíll compile a list of my debilitating, persistent and chronic (just the bad ones) and post it here.

Itíll take me a week to write it and Iíll need a pad with more memory for the file, but you check back here in a week and Iíll show you injuries that would make a pro faint.

* Mental scars not included.
* Offer subject to change.

moose

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#30 Re: Climbing and getting older
May 28, 2020, 10:08:40 pm
ďProfessional sports have more injury issuesĒ?
Yer haviní a laugh mate! Let me tell you.

Iíll compile a list of my debilitating, persistent and chronic (just the bad ones) and post it here.

Itíll take me a week to write it and Iíll need a pad with more memory for the file, but you check back here in a week and Iíll show you injuries that would make a pro faint.

* Mental scars not included.
* Offer subject to change.

Anecdote does not equal analysis.   Perhaps there are lots of footballers etc who went "all in" for the game and ended up with knackered knee ligaments, released by their teams, and broke and adrift in their early twenties.

tomtom

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#31 Re: Climbing and getting older
May 28, 2020, 10:13:22 pm
I think Lyndford was seeking spiritual help from his pharmacist at that time.

:D before I go full Will Hunt and dig an even deeper hole... wasnít everyone else at that time??

And (asking for a friend...) would drugs help the performance reducing effects of age..

petejh

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#32 Re: Climbing and getting older
May 28, 2020, 10:17:40 pm
Beetroot and creatine is all you need! (maybe some prostrate support..)

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#33 Re: Climbing and getting older
May 28, 2020, 11:14:05 pm
Around 40 my back started giving me gyp. Turns out a groundfall I'd taken at around 30 had knocked my pelvis out of alignment and all the muscles had compensated weirdly. Got cracked back into shape, but now I need to keep up a lot of pilates to redress the imbalances, and my leg flexibility is dire.

So more aches and pains, but hard work and dedication should put me right (yep.. I'm screwed)

Paul B

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#34 Re: Climbing and getting older
May 29, 2020, 10:50:10 am
Around 40 my back started giving me gyp. Turns out a groundfall I'd taken at around 30 had knocked my pelvis out of alignment and all the muscles had compensated weirdly. Got cracked back into shape, but now I need to keep up a lot of pilates to redress the imbalances, and my leg flexibility is dire.

It's interesting you say that. I broke my leg (in style, right foot touched right knee  :sick:) about a decade ago and I started having shoulder issues a few years ago (they're unstable AF). The physio I saw instantly started asking questions about whether or not I'd damaged my lower body after watching my movement.

WRT Webbo's and TC's comments, I look at the volume many people pack in on a Lattice plan (from what I've seen there's often a large increase for people) I'm always astounded they don't break almost immediately! Perhaps it's time to request a username change to Mr. Glass?

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#35 Re: Climbing and getting older
May 29, 2020, 11:15:32 am
Yep. Slate quarries. 15ft onto a right angle edged boulder that I managed to get my left foot to before the rest of me (probably preventing a spinal). If we stood side by side Paul pre osteopath we'd have probably made a nice mirror image.
My main issue is I'm indisciplined towards stretching. I could say that this is because I was diligent in the past and it made no difference. However that was with a wonky body and wasted bum muscles needed to take over from the overworked hammies.
No excuse now, just lazy

mark s

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#36 Re: Climbing and getting older
May 29, 2020, 12:36:38 pm
I think Lyndford was seeking spiritual help from his pharmacist at that time.

:D before I go full Will Hunt and dig an even deeper hole... wasnít everyone else at that time??

And (asking for a friend...) would drugs help the performance reducing effects of age..

Everyone of them in Johnsons infamous race when he got collared for winstrol. 

As for drugs, yes they would 100 percent help climbers recover once you reach your golden years. More lance armstrongs plan rather than dorian yates

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#37 Re: Climbing and getting older
May 29, 2020, 02:30:13 pm
More lance armstrongs plan rather than dorian yates

Iím going with Dorian Grayís plan myself.

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#38 Re: Climbing and getting older
June 16, 2020, 05:02:49 pm
More lance armstrongs plan rather than dorian yates

Iím going with Dorian Grayís plan myself.

Hm... I hoped I could make the Cabernet Sauvignon plan work for me, but there isn't probably enough chemistry involved in this to be really effective.
But apart from this, it is VERY pleasant, let me tell you.

And it definitely helps with the "next-day-man-I-am-too-old-for-this-shit" sensation after a gloriorus extended bouldering session  ;)

Andy W

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#39 Re: Climbing and getting older
June 16, 2020, 05:24:46 pm
More lance armstrongs plan rather than dorian yates

Iím going with Dorian Grayís plan myself.

Hm... I hoped I could make the Cabernet Sauvignon plan work for me, but there isn't probably enough chemistry involved in this to be really effective.
But apart from this, it is VERY pleasant, let me tell you.

And it definitely helps with the "next-day-man-I-am-too-old-for-this-shit" sensation after a gloriorus extended bouldering session  ;)

I find that living in France, it's often hard to avoid a glass of wine with lunch at the weekends. As long as I have a nap and a coffee I find it doesn't impair my training at all.

 

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