[abarro81]

The direct start to 42, bolted (I believe) by Kristian years ago - thanks Kristian! Named in reference to 32/42 on this part of the crag*, but also to the fact that my fragile fingers feel a decade older than they should.
(*Especially since 32 came after 42)

Cruxy in the roof on undercuts, then a little trickery to deposit you at the good hold on 42, then the top of that route. I think it's better than the original, but then I'm obviously biased. It's not as good as Dreadnaught though. I clipped a long sling on the first bolt of 32 - this nicely keeps the rope out of the way of your feet on the crux. I didn't preclip the second real bolt of this (which protects all the hard new climbing) - I extended and clipped from low, then reversed 2 moves to the no hands ledge.

Grade: could be 8b+, could be 8c.. I'm a bit unsure how well I'm going at the moment given the lack of climbing until 10 days ago. Harder than the other b+s I've done on the cliff though, so let's start with low-end 8c and see where it ends up. Also I'm terrible at judging whether non-lanksters will find it hard or easy.

[Doylo]

Nice one you lanky cunt.

[reeve]

Cruxy in the roof on undercuts, then a little trickery to deposit you at the good hold on 42,

We all know what this means you serial kneebar'er! 😉

Good effs yo

[kc]

Nicely done. I'm sure 8c is fair, not that I'd know these days. Being better than 42 is not saying much. What a ugly creation that was. How are the bolts? I know Haydn didn't replace the belay and the one I put in the direct was just a cleaning bolt thrown in a random position. If you require any bolts/drill to make a good finished product give me a shout.

[abarro81]

The bolts seem good and the position of them works well with a long sling on the first bolt of 32 and a triple draw on the main one you're falling onto for all of the crux. I was thinking about a new low bolt instead of using the one on 32, but I think it would be hard to position it as well given how the feet work on the crux. If others try it and find it annoying not having a separate low bolt then I can add one..

On that note, how feasible is it to teach bolting in a socially distanced manner? And would you be up for teaching me?  I need to learn anyway, and was wondering about bolting a new start up the wall between Monumental and Malcolm X too... Can be pretty flexi with work hours at the moment to make it fit if you have time

[danm]

Teaching to bolt could be done easily without breaking social distancing. Just before getting furloughed I was working on getting some videos for the BMC Youtube channel covering placing glue-ins. Cumbria Bolt Fund have shot a load of decent training videos for their guys, so the footage exists, it's just getting hold of it. I'll poke Alex and see if it can be progressed. I don't know how busy KC is, but I'd happily run a training session as a volunteer if he's too busy, got time to burn right now. Would need the PBF kit though, my BMC kit is all locked in the office.

[kc]

Was the low bolt stainless? Can you tell the difference? I generally don't waste good bolts when prospecting.
Have you see the line of tatty bolts I placed above the last eggs start? Sort of a direct version of Keith's project? That I'm sure will go.
I've got all the kit Dan so feel free to swing around and collect.
Out of interest there are a few routes on the main wall at Horseshoe (some of the best ones) that still have the old Fixe resin bolts in. Were they deemed to be alright? I thought it was meant to be standardized?

[iain]

Dan, I could use a refresher if this winds up happening, been a few years since I've been able to contribute.

Cheers

and good effort

[abarro81]

I don't know how busy KC is, but I'd happily run a training session as a volunteer if he's too busy, got time to burn right now. Would need the PBF kit though, my BMC kit is all locked in the office.

This sounds perfect. My wife Ella would also be keen if that's ok? How's best to arrange if a few people are interested, as it sounds like they might be? On the whole weekends, Tuesdays or Thursdays (not this week though) are best for us... After June 12th is ideal but I can do before that (Ella maybe not)

Was the low bolt stainless? Can you tell the difference? I generally don't waste good bolts when prospecting.

Not sure I'd know the difference if it punched me in the face..  there's a good "standard" expansion one, the lower one looks more like the new bolts in Malcolm X and the outer part looks fine but there's a bit of rust in the middle of it, so maybe not stainless?

Have you see the line of tatty bolts I placed above the last eggs start? Sort of a direct version of Keith's project? That I'm sure will go.

Not seen that, cheers. There's an old line of Dan V's bolts left of Nemesis that I'm keen to dig out of the mud too...

[spidermonkey09]

Also interested in the bolting workshop.

[danm]

Cool, I'll get some kit together and we can sort out a suitable date for people.

[kc]

Alex those welded bar hangers are stainless and the majority of hangers in general on Peak lime are stainless. The cleaning bolts are unlikely to be stainless or very long. Also and very importantly cleaning bolts are quickly placed to get you in on steep rock and less effort has been made finding solid rock.
I would change them.

I find it amazing how many people don't know the difference between stainless and non stainless.
If you were to put the two side by side new the non stainless would be bright looking with a slight blue hue or a galvanized zinc yellow. Stainless on the other hand tends to have a more dull oiled appearance. The nut will also have A2 or 4 stamped on it.

[Fatboyslimfast2]

'I find it amazing how many people don't know the difference between stainless and non stainless.
If you were to put the two side by side new the non stainless would be bright looking with a slight blue hue or a galvanized zinc yellow. Stainless on the other hand tends to have a more dull oiled appearance. The nut will also have A2 or 4 stamped on it.'
Generally (some do and a very few don't) a magnet doesn't work on stainless.

I teach A1 anchor installation for industry so if you need any help just ask

[abarro81]

Cool, sounds like it'll be worth me replacing that one then 

[iain]

Feel bad taking over your new route thread.

Probably can't do w/b 8/6/20 but otherwise flexible.

[danm]

I'll start a new thread for the workshop thing.