the shizzle > new routes

[Peak] [Chee Dale] [30 is the new 40] [8c?]

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abarro81:
The direct start to 42, bolted (I believe) by Kristian years ago - thanks Kristian! Named in reference to 32/42 on this part of the crag*, but also to the fact that my fragile fingers feel a decade older than they should.
(*Especially since 32 came after 42)

Cruxy in the roof on undercuts, then a little trickery to deposit you at the good hold on 42, then the top of that route. I think it's better than the original, but then I'm obviously biased. It's not as good as Dreadnaught though. I clipped a long sling on the first bolt of 32 - this nicely keeps the rope out of the way of your feet on the crux. I didn't preclip the second real bolt of this (which protects all the hard new climbing) - I extended and clipped from low, then reversed 2 moves to the no hands ledge.

Grade: could be 8b+, could be 8c.. I'm a bit unsure how well I'm going at the moment given the lack of climbing until 10 days ago. Harder than the other b+s I've done on the cliff though, so let's start with low-end 8c and see where it ends up. Also I'm terrible at judging whether non-lanksters will find it hard or easy.

Doylo:
Nice one you lanky cunt.

reeve:

--- Quote from: abarro81 on May 25, 2020, 03:26:32 pm ---Cruxy in the roof on undercuts, then a little trickery to deposit you at the good hold on 42,

--- End quote ---

We all know what this means you serial kneebar'er! 😉

Good effs yo

kc:
Nicely done. I'm sure 8c is fair, not that I'd know these days. Being better than 42 is not saying much. What a ugly creation that was. How are the bolts? I know Haydn didn't replace the belay and the one I put in the direct was just a cleaning bolt thrown in a random position. If you require any bolts/drill to make a good finished product give me a shout.

abarro81:
The bolts seem good and the position of them works well with a long sling on the first bolt of 32 and a triple draw on the main one you're falling onto for all of the crux. I was thinking about a new low bolt instead of using the one on 32, but I think it would be hard to position it as well given how the feet work on the crux. If others try it and find it annoying not having a separate low bolt then I can add one..

On that note, how feasible is it to teach bolting in a socially distanced manner? And would you be up for teaching me?  I need to learn anyway, and was wondering about bolting a new start up the wall between Monumental and Malcolm X too... Can be pretty flexi with work hours at the moment to make it fit if you have time

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