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John Allen (Read 17849 times)

Fatboyslimfast2

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#50 Re: John Allen
May 23, 2020, 06:41:35 am
Yes, wearing a really strange shit looking pair of shoes. Moolah is awesome.

EB's that didnt quite catch on.
Those things were sooooo stiff, full on edging shoes, how he climbed anything in them is beyond me, think he did the fall at Curbar in them as well

Will Hunt

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#51 Re: John Allen
May 23, 2020, 08:03:23 am
I will ask Paul whether it's him, but if it isn't then they must have been separated at birth!

It seems that your Paul Clarke is different to my Paul Clarke.

duncan

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#52 Re: John Allen
May 23, 2020, 08:40:58 am
Thanks for asking. I’m probably wrong, it was nearly 40 years ago. I recognised the guy instantly, and have climbed with him, but the name is proving harder to retrieve!

webbo

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#53 Re: John Allen
May 23, 2020, 09:20:07 am
Could it be Martin Moran?

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#55 Re: John Allen
May 27, 2020, 02:15:55 pm

mrjonathanr

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#56 Re: John Allen
May 27, 2020, 03:37:39 pm
No West Side Story?

andy popp

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#57 Re: John Allen
May 27, 2020, 03:46:55 pm
Mega! I've done about 60 (give or take, there's a few I think I've done but can't be sure).

Also Body Pop is recorded as Body Popp, and much as I'd like to think JA named a route after me, I'm pretty certain he didn't.

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#58 Re: John Allen
May 27, 2020, 07:16:16 pm

T_B

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#59 Re: John Allen
May 27, 2020, 07:22:58 pm
57 from that list, and it’s highlighted some obvious things I’ve not done. So many classics

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#60 Re: John Allen
May 27, 2020, 07:25:25 pm
Twenty for me I think.  Andy, I remember holding your ropes on a few of those that I was far off from doing.

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#61 Re: John Allen
May 28, 2020, 09:44:30 am
No West Side Story?

Original list mostly from FA data on UKC. Few boulder problems added from http://peakbouldering.info/search?first_ascentionist=John%20Allen Unsure on Technical Master. Anyone?

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#62 Re: John Allen
May 28, 2020, 10:24:07 am
 I think that John and Ed Drummond both climbed it around the same time. Having thought about this a bit more I’m thinking that one of them climbed it on the left and one on the right.

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#63 Re: John Allen
May 28, 2020, 10:34:45 am
What a list! I'd never really appreciated the enormity of John's FA contribution. Such genre defining classics as well.

I never met John, but his routes did give me what was probably (still) my best day of climbing. Back in February 2007. We spent the morning at Curbar where we did Canoe and got utterly spanked by The Toy. It was too hot! So we abandoned and headed to Burbage South for the afternoon where we did The Boggart, Boggart Left Hand, The Knock and Pebble Mill. What a great day that was!

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#64 Re: John Allen
May 28, 2020, 11:44:46 am
Twenty for me I think.  Andy, I remember holding your ropes on a few of those that I was far off from doing.

No doubt!

SA Chris

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#65 Re: John Allen
May 28, 2020, 11:49:43 am
Does any footage exist of him climbing?

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#66 Re: John Allen
May 28, 2020, 03:46:53 pm
Off the top of my head was there a short clip of him on Jackaloupe from  Best Forgotten Art?

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#67 Re: John Allen
May 28, 2020, 03:55:54 pm
I never met John, but his routes did give me what was probably (still) my best day of climbing. Back in February 2007. We spent the morning at Curbar where we did Canoe and got utterly spanked by The Toy. It was too hot! So we abandoned and headed to Burbage South for the afternoon where we did The Boggart, Boggart Left Hand, The Knock and Pebble Mill. What a great day that was!

That was a great day! Although I thought we managed the toy? Maybe not. Burbage felt like velcro as I recall. I certainly remember that I wussed out of the Pebble Mill after your ascent though.

Wil

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#68 Re: John Allen
May 28, 2020, 04:10:47 pm
That was a great day! Although I thought we managed the toy?

I think you're right, but I remember finding it really hard and I think I fell off? I remember your hand slipping on the topout of the Knock and you just checked the momentum, I thought you were off! I'd had a sneaky toprope so it wasn't so bad.

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#69 Re: John Allen
May 28, 2020, 05:25:10 pm
Off the top of my head was there a short clip of him on Jackaloupe from  Best Forgotten Art?

Yep. He climbs Stonnis Crack (and possibly more that I’ve forgotten) too.

SA Chris

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#70 Re: John Allen
May 29, 2020, 10:03:13 am
I seem to recall that. Shame there isn't much from his prime years

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#71 Re: John Allen
June 02, 2020, 11:24:26 am
Not sure if this has already been linked but got around to listening to Jam Crack  080 John Allen's Routes and Me in the car the other day.  Nice tribute to the man and his routes.

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#72 Re: John Allen
June 02, 2020, 01:04:11 pm
Not sure if this has already been linked but got around to listening to Jam Crack  080 John Allen's Routes and Me in the car the other day.  Nice tribute to the man and his routes.

Yeah, 2nd that - drove up to St Bees Sunday evening  (work engagement in Egremont 8am Monday morning - not just for the hell of it!)

Was absolutely perfect accompaniment to the crazy drive up the west coast of the lakes prior to a sunset bouldering session. 
Nice one Grimer! 

mrjonathanr

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#73 Re: John Allen
October 23, 2020, 10:47:38 pm
Climber host Crags interview with John before he emigrated.
https://www.climber.co.uk/people/interviews/the-john-allen-interview-crags-8-1977/

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#74 Re: John Allen
October 24, 2020, 09:06:21 am
I saw a beer from Buxton Brewery called Chip Shop Brawl. Is it a coincidence or is someone there doffing a cap to JA?

 

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