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Lockdown fingerboarding advice (Read 10958 times)

dunnyg

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#200 Re: Lockdown fingerboarding advice
April 14, 2020, 06:06:23 pm
3 hours is the dream

Bradders

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#201 Re: Lockdown fingerboarding advice
April 15, 2020, 11:04:20 am
Not 30 pull ups, but still quite impressive...

https://www.instagram.com/p/B-_vbL7DMrl/?igshid=1b8w6yg9zfu3g

Liamhutch89

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#202 Re: Lockdown fingerboarding advice
April 15, 2020, 11:56:34 am
I have/had a triple bodyweight deadlift (probably a bit less now) and i've always been relatively good at stepping high and driving a lot of power through the feet and also on undercuts. I've no doubt that this can be achieved at far lower levels of hinge strength and considering the additional muscle mass that's needed in the legs and core, there's probably a point where it becomes a disadvantage (>2x?).

gme

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#203 Re: Lockdown fingerboarding advice
April 15, 2020, 03:26:09 pm
All about balance i guess.

Suggest being able to one arm deadhang the 10mm micros but unable to do any of the other stuff or use your feet etc. would mean your limited as well.

Lots of folks have absurd deadhang abilities and dont seem to climb that hard at all. Just like people being able to boulder 8A and not do an 8a route.

All about balance and i think thats what Steve Maisch is suggesting.

Duma

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#204 Re: Lockdown fingerboarding advice
April 15, 2020, 05:37:22 pm
Anyone who can do 8A but thinks they can't do 8a just hasn't tried a suitable one.

Duncan campbell

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#205 Re: Lockdown fingerboarding advice
April 15, 2020, 07:57:19 pm
Anyone who can do 8A but thinks they can't do 8a just hasn't tried a suitable one.

If you can climb 8A surely the only thing that would hold you back on a lowly 8a would be fear??

Duma

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#206 Re: Lockdown fingerboarding advice
April 15, 2020, 08:05:43 pm
Anyone who can do 8A but thinks they can't do 8a just hasn't tried a suitable one.

If you can climb 8A surely the only thing that would hold you back on a lowly 8a would be fear??
As a boulderer of that sort of level, there's plenty of enduro 8a's (or even 7c's) that are miles away, so it may not be just fear, but certainly cruxy ones are very doable.

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#207 Re: Lockdown fingerboarding advice
April 27, 2020, 02:24:53 pm
Anybody have any advice for a large inconsistency between arms? I seem to be able to hold an equivalent hang with my left arm for almost double my right arm. Should I be doing twice as many hangs with my right arm to try to match the time? Or doing more that side?

Sorry if this has been answered already, I may have missed it during my cursory search.

nai

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#208 Re: Lockdown fingerboarding advice
April 27, 2020, 02:53:17 pm
Any help?


its likely an arm or shoulder weakness thats causing a big discrepency anyhow if you're doing well with lots of weight on on 2 arms. Normal good form rules apply, shoulder engaged on straight arm etc, might also be good to build in some scap and lat pulls with two arms to target potential weak areas (in the absence of a bod poking you in a test)


monkoffunk

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#209 Re: Lockdown fingerboarding advice
April 27, 2020, 03:25:51 pm
Yeah. I guess it seemed like too much of a discrepancy to be purely fingers. Do need to work on form.

AMorris

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#210 Re: Lockdown fingerboarding advice
May 12, 2020, 02:48:08 pm
Found the end of a training block a couple of weeks back so I decided to change things up a bit. For context my previous finger sessions involved one arm deadhanging the low BM2 rung (half crimp), adding 2.5kg each set till failure then rolling it back and doing 4 sets of this. Worked great for a while, but I was little finger nestling a lot so this next set is basically as strict as possible not nestling the corner, which is of course a bit weaker (but ethics innit).

I also did dragging sessions on the upper right eye using the same format.

My question is as follows.

They are basically the same exercise: hanging a rung with one arm. For the purpose of changing things up, how useful would it be to start adding in some two arm max hangs on the smaller outside edges? I know this seems to be a bit backwards, but it is not something I have done much before so I am wondering whether it might be worth pursuing that for a while.

My logic behind this is that on the middle low rung my PRs are +12.5kg nestled, +8.75kg non nestled (for 5s), and yet I find it very hard to hang the smaller edge, only getting 3-4s of trying not to fire off on a good day.

The frustrating thing is that I can hang that hold fine on other BM2's, but on mine it seems wildly difficult. With the objective of hanging this hold one armed more comfortably, would two arm weighted hangs on it help or should I just bash on with weighed one armers on the low rung?

Apologies for the long and slightly ugly post

 

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