Quote from: Duma on May 11, 2020, 09:16:08 amMoF - if I read yr post right you're doing one armed repeaters on the middle edge (on a bm2000? In which case it's 24mm ish) with 15kg assistance, but your best 10s one arm hang is 12.5kg assistance? That can't be right, is that on a different edge?I’ve been experimenting with taking off weight, did the repeaters at start of the week with -15kg, and then tried taking off less weight for single rep hangs. I could definitely do -13.75kg on Sunday but not better, on Friday I’m pretty sure I managed one -12.5kg. The repeaters did feel like maybe I could have less assistance I think!
MoF - if I read yr post right you're doing one armed repeaters on the middle edge (on a bm2000? In which case it's 24mm ish) with 15kg assistance, but your best 10s one arm hang is 12.5kg assistance? That can't be right, is that on a different edge?
Quote from: monkoffunk on May 11, 2020, 10:01:04 amQuote from: Duma on May 11, 2020, 09:16:08 amMoF - if I read yr post right you're doing one armed repeaters on the middle edge (on a bm2000? In which case it's 24mm ish) with 15kg assistance, but your best 10s one arm hang is 12.5kg assistance? That can't be right, is that on a different edge?I’ve been experimenting with taking off weight, did the repeaters at start of the week with -15kg, and then tried taking off less weight for single rep hangs. I could definitely do -13.75kg on Sunday but not better, on Friday I’m pretty sure I managed one -12.5kg. The repeaters did feel like maybe I could have less assistance I think!Sorry, maybe I'm being thick - it sounds like you're doing 6:4 repeaters at only a kg or so less assistance than your max 10s hang?? That's not right surely, or am I just weird?
Why not just climb on big holds on your board until you are happy with how your pulleys feel? This will get the blood flowing and probably be better ‘active rest’ than fingerboarding.
Quote from: Duma on May 11, 2020, 11:58:58 amQuote from: monkoffunk on May 11, 2020, 10:01:04 amQuote from: Duma on May 11, 2020, 09:16:08 amMoF - if I read yr post right you're doing one armed repeaters on the middle edge (on a bm2000? In which case it's 24mm ish) with 15kg assistance, but your best 10s one arm hang is 12.5kg assistance? That can't be right, is that on a different edge?I’ve been experimenting with taking off weight, did the repeaters at start of the week with -15kg, and then tried taking off less weight for single rep hangs. I could definitely do -13.75kg on Sunday but not better, on Friday I’m pretty sure I managed one -12.5kg. The repeaters did feel like maybe I could have less assistance I think!Sorry, maybe I'm being thick - it sounds like you're doing 6:4 repeaters at only a kg or so less assistance than your max 10s hang?? That's not right surely, or am I just weird? Hmmm, what’s normal? Maybe I’ve made a mistake somewhere!
Quote from: monkoffunk on May 11, 2020, 12:12:01 pmQuote from: Duma on May 11, 2020, 11:58:58 amQuote from: monkoffunk on May 11, 2020, 10:01:04 amQuote from: Duma on May 11, 2020, 09:16:08 amMoF - if I read yr post right you're doing one armed repeaters on the middle edge (on a bm2000? In which case it's 24mm ish) with 15kg assistance, but your best 10s one arm hang is 12.5kg assistance? That can't be right, is that on a different edge?I’ve been experimenting with taking off weight, did the repeaters at start of the week with -15kg, and then tried taking off less weight for single rep hangs. I could definitely do -13.75kg on Sunday but not better, on Friday I’m pretty sure I managed one -12.5kg. The repeaters did feel like maybe I could have less assistance I think!Sorry, maybe I'm being thick - it sounds like you're doing 6:4 repeaters at only a kg or so less assistance than your max 10s hang?? That's not right surely, or am I just weird? Hmmm, what’s normal? Maybe I’ve made a mistake somewhere!Well (and this is for 2 arms) the hardest repeaters session on the lattice app is at 80% of total max load (though they test max at 7s not 10), but you're doing them at around 95% - 98% depending on body weight. Seems either you've got more in the tank on max hangs, or yr anpow (or whatever it is) is outrageously good in comparison.Or I've misunderstood...
Good work everyone. I worry for the UK rock after this lockdown with how hard people are going to be pulling down! I have definitely felt the benefits of being forced to train some basic strength during the shorter lockdown here in Austria. I need a self-imposed strength gain lockdown every quarter!Weight: 142-145lbsM: Repeaters (6 seconds on 4 off for a minute x 6 with 1.5 minute rests). My fingers felt good but my fingerboard hanging of the pullup bar setup means I have to lift my legs up and engage the core. This felt brutal after running 100km the day before. Put together a very amateur vid documenting my 100km run here:T: Wanted to do a power endurance session such as the one Neil Gresham posted on Insta. Basically mixing repeaters with a minute of pullups and leg raises for 6 minutes then with 8 minutes rest. I completely underestimated how hard this would be and skipped Neil's calibration part (20-30 pullups on the edge of choice) and went straight to body weight on a 15mm edge. Failed in the first set so decided to calibrate on a 30mm edge. Managed 15 pullups with 6kg assistance and then 17 with 8kg assistance and then realised I was just too exhausted for this kind of training so stopped.W: After work climbing session at Müll. Tried a 7c but it was boiling hot and the crux revolved around a dyno or static lock off a heel using a very glassy sloper. I could do the move off the rope every time but by the time I got there from the ground I could barely deadhang the sloper! T: Climbing at Schleier Wasserfall. Finished off a cool 30m 8a with a hard boulder in the sky and then onsighted the classic Skywalk. This is never 7b but I guess classics almost never get upgraded! F: After work climbing session at Kofnertal. This is Angy Eiter's local crag near Imst that she seems keen to publicise on Insta as a quiet place to go at the moment. It was a nice crag situated in a narrow wooded river valley and we were the only ones there so it was quiet! Put the draws in an 8a with a tough boulder right at the top. Surprised myself by getting though the boulder on the first RP only to realise I never bothered checking the final clip. Found myself out to the right unable to reach it before executing the final on-off mantle. The braver me would have just kept going and tried the mantle diagonally way above the last draw I had clipped, but the braver me is still in lockdown so I just jumped off. Go 2 I messed up the feet on the boulder. Go 3 I got though the hardest part of the boulder but the rope had wrapped itself around my leg. Fail. S: Nice trail run - finally with another friend and his dog. 21km with 1700m height gain.S: Schleier Wasserfall. Tried Hoanata Haltling an 8b+. I had been putting off trying anything above 8a+ in the last month as I wasn't ready to take a spanking. This went better than expected though after I found a sequence though the hardest first 4 bolts. Probably a Font 7C boulder followed by a 7c/+ route with really cool big moves between pockets and huecos in grey limestone. Had one decent RP but then my skin was trashed as the holds are small and it was very warm. It should hopefully go on a cloudy day with a bit of a breeze (crux sequence in vid below). Finally tried to onsight the classic Schwing dei Ding but I chickened out of the diagonal "run out" at the crux. Seems to be a problem for me at the moment!A pretty good week with some increased volume on rock and getting a couple of things ticked. I was pretty exhausted on Monday and Tuesday after running big on the weekend but bounced back to normal after that. Need to try and fit in some max. hangs this week but it is hard with the increased rock climbing to get rested and deal with very sore skin. Could be worse I suppose!
S: Camp Dick. 4X4 road closed due to snow, road to campground closed to stop people camping during virus. This made for a 5 mile walk-in to the boulders up to an altitude of 9,900ft. Lots of snow to negotiate and 900ft ascent, more postholing than I'd like. Found the boulders to be dry and amazing, psyched. Managed to flash Ball That Jack V5 before moving onto an amazing looking V8 Put Some Hair Around It. Did all the moves and was close to sending but too exhausted I think. Walk out was even more grim as the snow had softened further. Watch said I'd burnt 2,500 calories on the hiking alone. Destroyed after this but mega day
S - Birthday today. Not psyched but felt better as the day went on. went for a walk in the wood by our flat and played on the 3ft tall boulders in there. Managed to do something to my wrist with the mantles ffs. Few beers
Nice. Did you repeat my problems? Do any new ones? Gosh, we'll have to get an Unknown Stones guide done.
66.6kg
Quote from: measles23 on May 15, 2020, 01:43:25 pm66.6kg 🤘🤘🤘
Conceptually challenging as I hate this kind of crossfit like training, but RC has given reasoning so will work with it..
66.6kg Thurs- Max hangs BM2k 3 hours on 40 deg board Secondary fingerboard session on BM2k
Quote from: measles23 on May 15, 2020, 01:43:25 pmConceptually challenging as I hate this kind of crossfit like training, but RC has given reasoning so will work with it..Out of interest, what is her reasoning?
I suppose the eternal delusion is that the weight stays off, but it never does!Remind me about it dude please!