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Neil Carson interview now live (Read 5620 times)

Doylo

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#50 Re: Neil Carson interview now live
May 01, 2020, 04:26:47 pm
And thanks again for all the  positive comments  :wub:

Youíre a lot better at interviewing than you are climbing.  :lol: I watched the G one again - did well to soften those questions that implied people think heís a bullshitter so they didnít offend. 

shark

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#51 Re: Neil Carson interview now live
May 04, 2020, 08:36:01 am
Heís been on Liquid, Sea of and BB and not been back to finish any of them. I donít think conditions are any worse. Kilnsey is wet most the time. Malham is boiling a lot of the time. LPT hardly seeps.  Main thing is the tides which is a pain if not local. And not great when humid but that goes for most the sport crags.

New 9a+ there for him too if he wanted it. Great rock, independent line, tiny crimps, got his name all over it.

Has to keep the name though.

Quote from: shark in PM
@Steven Mcclure Apparently theres a potentail new 9a+  at LPT for you to do if you wanted it. Great rock, independent line, tiny crimps. Do you know about it? Interested?

Quote from: Steve Mac
9a+ at LPT... make that 9b+ for effort (conditions/distance/tides). So might be pushing it for me. But could be worth a look. Must be squeezed in though, don't remember many gaps...

Doylo

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Duma

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#53 Re: Neil Carson interview now live
May 04, 2020, 09:10:54 am
How tidal is lpt? I've never got tides as an excuse, they're 100% predictable after all. It's only if the window is really short it should be a serious barrier no?

Doylo

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#54 Re: Neil Carson interview now live
May 04, 2020, 09:14:32 am
You get about 3.5 ish hours before and after low tide. Is in the sun until around 12 though.

remus

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#55 Re: Neil Carson interview now live
May 04, 2020, 11:15:46 am
How tidal is lpt? I've never got tides as an excuse, they're 100% predictable after all. It's only if the window is really short it should be a serious barrier no?

Even if tides are predictable, good conditions on sea cliffs are at a premium so if it's only decent x% of the time and then you lose some big chunk of that to tides you're hurting your chances.

Will Hunt

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#56 Re: Neil Carson interview now live
May 05, 2020, 01:30:47 pm
Well I think the sense of the question about the project to the right of Black Jumper at Caley was sufficiently lost in the asking that I'm not sure if it's been answered!

But thanks anyway for the interview.
« Last Edit: May 05, 2020, 01:49:18 pm by Will Hunt »

nai

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#57 Re: Neil Carson interview now live
May 05, 2020, 01:53:40 pm
Could have sworn you asked if he tried going direct and the answer was no he didn't

Will Hunt

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#58 Re: Neil Carson interview now live
May 05, 2020, 02:16:08 pm
I think there was just some confusion around the name of the thing and thus where it was on the crag (there was some mention of Psycho), which makes we wonder whether the thing I'm thinking of and what Neil was remembering are the same thing. It probably is the same thing, and if so it's interesting to know that he wasn't using pads and that he didn't give serious attention to the top wall.

I'm not sure why it was an embarrassing question in the first place. It's a significant crag, the direct finish is a significant unclimbed line on the crag (standing very squarely in broad daylight next to the main path). The guidebook description makes it sound like it is a long standing project, of which Neil solved the first bit. He's clearly not shy of a crimp - it's intriguing to know why that top section didn't go.

nai

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#59 Re: Neil Carson interview now live
May 05, 2020, 02:45:35 pm
Well putting the pieces togther, he said he didn't do a lot of bouldering and it wasn't a focus, it's high, hard and if he fell off he'd have missed pads by at least five years.

It's also worth noting that back in the late 1990s pads were 80cm square and about 5cm thick and you owned one, if your mates had one too you were lucky. 

Rob F

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#60 Re: Neil Carson interview now live
May 05, 2020, 04:37:36 pm
Will, if it was possible then you really think that Caley protagonists such as Manson, Clifford, Birch, Peckitt would have missed it out???

Having said that, with modern ability to do massive dynos from undercuts. Mmm...

dunnyg

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#61 Re: Neil Carson interview now live
May 05, 2020, 04:39:46 pm
I heard Will did it yesterday, says its 6C+, and soft at that.

Rob F

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#62 Re: Neil Carson interview now live
May 05, 2020, 04:47:39 pm
Very true- ha ha

Bear in mind it's over 25 years since I looked, but I think the line in the latest guide is misleading and the traverse left to the arete is lower down.

It's only 8 meters. What was Will's lank stats on that other thread???

Bradders

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#63 Re: Neil Carson interview now live
May 05, 2020, 04:49:28 pm
it's intriguing to know why that top section didn't go.

Quote from: Will Hunt
Are there any holds on the direct finish?

Quote from: Rob F
I rapped down it years ago. There aren't any...

YW  ;)

I'd never noticed this line before (shows how badly my blinkers are attached  ::)) but the cop out to the arete looks great, thanks for the heads up Will; on the list. Real shame there aren't any holds higher up assuming Rob didn't miss anything.

Will Hunt

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#64 Re: Neil Carson interview now live
May 05, 2020, 04:54:50 pm
Will, if it was possible then you really think that Caley protagonists such as Manson, Clifford, Birch, Peckitt would have missed it out???

Having said that, with modern ability to do massive dynos from undercuts. Mmm...

It's exactly that sort of thinking that means that these things get overlooked! Caley has had loads of things go at (relatively) modest grades in the last 20 years. One might ask why Varian's additions from the last few years hadn't been done yet. They're all between 7C (or maybe +) and 8A/+ (wall left of Unfinished Crack taken direct, direct start to Rabbit's Paw Wall, slab/rib left of Syrett's Saunter, left hand finish to Lightning Crack trending left towards Maurice Chevalier, link of Ben's Groove into the finish of the Ripper Traverse). Not exactly the grades of tomorrow. Dunning only did the left side of Quark a few years ago. Obviously it's massive and looks very scary, but then High Fidelity is massive and looks very scary and 8B is a much bigger proposition than The Waiting Line (7C).

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#65 Re: Neil Carson interview now live
May 06, 2020, 06:28:37 pm
Well putting the pieces togther, he said he didn't do a lot of bouldering and it wasn't a focus, it's high, hard and if he fell off he'd have missed pads by at least five years.

It's also worth noting that back in the late 1990s pads were 80cm square and about 5cm thick and you owned one, if your mates had one too you were lucky.


 Yep, I was confused by the question - I wrote up a few boulder problems in the early 80s and struggled to remember which one this was! Anyway, I didn't look at the direct - no holds! Neil C

Will Hunt

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#66 Re: Neil Carson interview now live
May 06, 2020, 08:22:43 pm
Thanks, Neil.

 

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