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Power Club 528 20th April - 26th April 2020 (Read 5613 times)

tomtom

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Afternoon all.

Mon: Small evening board session. 30-40 min - large holds - working on body position/hips in etc..

Tu: 1 arm day. 3 x -15kg sets, 2 x -8kg, and managed 3 sets at -6kg - though as it was hotin the attic I had got down to my pants at that time (so cheating? :D ). 2 x -15kg. Both the -15kg were for 7 secs on 3 off - and can get some good deliberate twisting going on there now..

We: Board session 1 hour or so. Good session - new problem - hips in - good!

Thu: Got some lovely oak edges and pinches from Rick Ginns - resisted temptation to fit them - instead had my planned 1 arm day. Same as per tues (10 sets going from -15k to -6kg and back again. Felt better than tues. Bit more on it.

Fri: Board setting day - and climbing day \o/ Shit. Couldnt get up anything - lovely new holds - all not quite incut enough for a 50+ board... tried so so so hard - but feet kept pinging off the jenga brick footholds - deeply unsatisfying. Stopped after an hour - shattered. Quite disappointed - lovely new holds - couldnt stick any of them

Sat: First - decided to move some of the bolt on plastic holds to become footholds just above the jenga blocks. Theyre small ish (20-25mm) but incut and textured - so far more positive.. resisted temptation to test too much - instead focused on 1 arm day.

Same set as tues and thurs - but much easier - in between sets tried  with -4kg (and felt breifly OK) then had a go with no assist... YYFY :) Couldn't hold them for long (2-3 secs) but certainly a milestone for me - never been able to do any sort of lock off bent arm hang on one arm before - in 28-29 years of climbing. Then went back to -6kg (felt piss) and back up to the heavier weight.

(Sorry for filming it - I was chuffed :) warning - clip contains weak man flailing :D)


Sun: Board day. Feels like cheating with larger positive footholds. Climbs VERY differently.. but managed to use some of my new holds properly - even got a problem with a gaston/press now which is hard on a 50 (for me at least). Really enjoyable session - love the pinches and starting to develop some good problems.

This is something I struggle with internally with the setting of my board. I can have good feet allowing me to use bad/small hand holds (20mm incut crimps become 20mm 10-20 degree slopers on the 50) and I can drive more through my feet to keep my body in (inc twisting/dropped knee). Or - bad feet meaning I have to make moves between large holds either cutting loose or desparately trying to bone down on a slick 10mm edge to keep a toe on. Nearly always frogs legged front on. I guess I can do both... maybe alternate sessions as they work different muscle groups (ish).

A good and hard week... non climbing wise its been really hard - childcare and doing all the cooking (and playing lego every morning for an hour from between 6:30 - 7:30) has started to take its toll - and yesterday and today I've slept very badly and have a consistent low level migrane. Negotiations are underway with MrsTT to work out a different way of sharing things.. Climbing - sorry training (!!) wise a good week. Got to holding that one arm (even though its a big slot) in my 9th session - from using every sinew to hold and stop rotating with 15kg assist in the first session. Board is now set (I have enough holds) and whilst I'm still working out what I want from it ~ its now fun rather than impossible.

Goals for next week are to consolitdate the one arm stuff (get that no assist hang up to a few non desparate seconds) then think about moving to a smaller hold with more assist and repeat the process etc.. etc..

Will Hunt

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M - core. Ab ripper

T - board. Put the new holds on and started setting new problems on them. Did one of them quickly so might try that on red feet. The other one will take longer but will probably go. Can't do the crux of The Ratline in isolation.
https://www.instagram.com/p/B_QjoE0jrff/?igshid=pnofkfivsdem

W - pull ups and push ups. Warm up and then, on the minute, 8,6,4,8,6,4. No added weight but found this surprisingly hard to finish. Threw some push ups in there.

T - lunchtime ride with stretching after. Attempted a steep hill and had to push the bike - the shame.

F - rest but did some very light arm work.

S - board. Decent sesh. Midges in the garage! Did Boneyard which was really satisfying climbing. Set another project but it feels like the living end. Need to set something that's hard but not impossible.
https://www.instagram.com/p/B_a2WFBjmrE/?igshid=1e0uv9zz9axlb

S - rest

shark

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11.9-10 Average 164.1lbs (up 0.4lbs)

Thanks Tom. Nice tick with the hangs.

Full disclosure Will?  :jab:

M.

T.

W. Morning. Bachar ladder. Managed to do 2 or 3 doubles off right and got close off left. Also did 1-3-5 off left then bump left to 2 and go thru to 7 off right a couple of times off both arms. Couldn’t do it off other arm
PM Density hangs. Reintroduced full crimp to routine. Felt unstrong on warmup. Results a bit meh but not that bad

T.

F.Morning. Bachar ladder. Did doubles off both arms. Also followed through with bumping trailing arm up to fourth rung and pulled through to seven again off both arms, twice. Happy with that

S. Morning. Throw practice mainly trying and failing on hardest version. Also could pull on crusher crimps but painful and not a good idea but good to know I can. AeroCap three sets. First set completed. Second set interrupted by telecoms engineer. Third set got pumped at about move 100

S.

Planned for easier week. Going to take a break from fingerboarding next week but start to do a bit of board climbing as fingertip probably up to it now.

Edit: ladder rung confusion / innumeracy.

NB Ladder rungs are spaced about a foot apart. Get confused each time I try to work out what the equivalent is on the campus board
« Last Edit: April 27, 2020, 10:49:05 am by shark »

JohnM

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Weight: 146-148lbs

M: 5km recovery run with 170m of elevation gain to make it 1000km of running with 53,000m of elevation gain this year.

T: Suffering from some kind of bad fatigue/exhaustion carried over from the weekend so complete rest.

W: Climbing at Höttinger Graben. Finished a bouldery 7c/7c+ I'd tried the week before and tried a wildly over hanging 30m 7c but ran out of time/energy. Probably not the best crag choice with an hour and a half walk-in. Exhausted again.

T: Badly fatigued all day. Did nothing physical and barely any work.

F: Still exhausted. In the afternoon went to the shittest crag I have been to for a long time. Rock like glass with 95% of the holds drilled or glued on for the harder routes. There was some easier routes for the mrs though, but they were also quite shit. Did what appeared to be the best line, a 6c+ crack leading to a smooth dihedral which was a real struggle. This crag has access issues. It is an issue if you have the misfortune to access it. Felt terrible again in the evening after barely doing anything.     

S: Woke up feeling bad again but the fatigue seemed to clear by mid-morning. Went to Schleierwasserfall. Finished the 8a+ Überflieger i'd tried the weekend before. Quite a cool route up a big headwall 30 metres up. Tried an 8a after. A nice 25m 7b+ to a decent rest then a pretty hard boulder on grey crozzley rock. Worked out the boulder but it destroyed my tips including my thumb pads. Had a decent 1st redpoint but fired off with very sore skin. Energy levels stayed reasonably high during the day and I felt normally tired in the evening instead of wiped out.

S: Woke up feeling a bit sore but not fatigued which was good. Did a nice run above the Mieming Sun Plateau (19km with 1075m height gain). Legs felt amazing for the first climb but faded a bit after that. Normal levels of tiredness again afterwards which was good.

A pretty good week climbing-wise although until Saturday any form of physical activity would leave me feeling completely exhausted afterwards and the day after. I was starting to get pretty worried by the end of the week but from mid-morning Saturday this bad fatigue seems to have disappeared. I hope it stays that way! I will try and get back to some climbing training this week with a couple of light runs and see I how I feel.


Nutty

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Mon: Garden board session. Working the same problems as before, got a move higher on one.
Tue: Rest
Wed: Garden board session. Cracking session. Warmed up then did a long-term project on the first attempt of the session - probably the hardest thing I've done on my board.
Thu: Rest. Right wrist/arm feeling some soreness.
Fri: Rest. Still some lingering soreness in right arm/wrist.
Sat: Rest
Sun: Fingerboard and bodyweight/mobility exercises: 5 x 20sec hangs, 15mm edge, bodyweight +20%. Right wrist feels sore again afterwards.

Highs and lows this week. Doing a long term board project was great - hopefully a sign of progress. Fingerboard session was steady compared to last week's at the same edge edge size and weight. Tweaking my wrist though is frustrating; one rest day between board sessions might not be enough. Will see how things go this week.

Nibile

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Hey John I can't remember: why did you get into running?

Murph

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Good stuff guys on your home training setups.

M-5k jog
T-
W-5k jog
T-
F-5k jog
S-
S-

Getting bored of this injured shoulder now and dont want to risk hurting it more. But perhaps erring too much on the side of caution.

Weight seems stable though so theres that.

mr chaz

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Goals: 1. Some form of exercise everyday. 2. End lockdown fitter than start. 3. Maintain finger strength.

M. 20 minute HIIT. Fingerboard - 2 arm 20s hangs.

T. Front levers, some slight improvement from last week. 20 minutes of yoga.

W. 30 minute HIIT.

T. Fingerboard - couldn't decide what to do, so did a few sporadic hangs to warm up then tried to do 2 sets of 5 pullups on every available hold (can only do 1 pullup on the both of the rattie moonboard crimps!).

F. 25 minute kettlebell session, working lower body and lower back.

S. 20 minute HIIT session with some kettlebell exercises thrown in.

S. Fingerboard - 1 arm max hangs, probably my best performance on these. Intended to do some exercise in the afternoon, got distracted by a G&T.

I feel strong, fit and motivated! WTF.


monkoffunk

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M - Rest day. Some core/stretching.
T - Horst style hangs. 1 set 10kg, 10 seconds. 2 sets +15kg, 8-10 seconds.
W - Total rest.
T - Total rest.
F - Horst max hangs. 1 set 10kg, 2 sets +15kg. Better than Tuesday, but not feeling strong at all despite rest. Unrecruited?
S - Warm up. Finger tip pull up pyramid, 5 at top. Short finger board problems, one min on, on off. Pumped and powered out 40s into set three! Work to be done here. Felt better.
S - Rest.

Steady week. Slightly lower volume as concerned about elbows on finger board too much. Weight static around 80kg. Think I need to focus on that next week!

HarryBD

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Nice one keeping it going people. Good to be hearing about some climbing John. Still waiting for Will to claim all his own board problems are piss. Glad to hear your fingers are getting better Shark.


Just failed on my weight target but only just as avg for week was 81.0kg. I'm definitely leaner though just hard to measure that. I'm blaming it on my chonky cycling thighs coming back. Managed the cardio target easily with 6:45hrs of running or biking. Hit the conditioning targets except for hip flexibility because I struggle to get psyched for this.

M - Ride 60mins, core workout. Coming out of Silsden I saw a cyclist absolutely twat it round a corner into a drystone wall, knock themselves out and bleed out their entire face. Struggled to keep social distance measures giving first aid but they didn't die and I don't seem to be coughing so counting that as a win. Supposed to be doing my first aid refresher course today but that was cancelled.

T - Ride 90mins with an explore of some bridleways. Max pullup effort with 17 again. 5x5 pullups on the minute with 8kg added (failed with 4 reps on last two sets). FB MAx and Density hangs.

W - 60mins run on Ilkley moor felt amazing, hip flexibility + core

T - Ride 70mins on the MTB, 5x5 pullups on the minute with 8kg added (failed with 4 reps on last set), FB Max + Density hangs

F - Run 45mins

S - Walk with Lily round Shipley Glen, 5x5 pullups on the minute at bodyweight managed easily, core, FB max + density hangs. Managed to hang over 25s at BW on HC small edge and 17s on 3FD on the bigger edge. which are definitely PBs. I was doing max hangs and failing with BW in HC on small edge before lockdown and now feels steady and couldn't hang body weight in a drag grip.

S - Ride 90mins.

Blood pressure raised by our elderly neighbour ragging at us for helping order the specific soap she needs online which turned out to be more expensive than from B&M Bargains. She started demanding money from L and suggesting we're conning her. Really not interested in helping her right now. There are others in the building who can help the witch for the next few weeks. We gave her some of our (really nice) home-cooked food a couple of weeks ago FFS. L told her where to go - proud of her as she hates confrontation.

Nibile

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Power Club

Mon - boxing bag. Power.
Tue - recovery session, boxing bag.
Wed - board climbing, one foot only + 8 kg. Static push ups + Ab wheel 20 reps x5. Pull ups finisher, not even close to finishing it. Two mad dogs munching my lats.
Thu - snatch 5x5 80 % (40 kg). Power clean 5x5 70 % (56 kg). Overhead carry.
Fri - light weights or boxing bag.
Sat - boxing bag, power.
Sun - abs, landmine core, glutes, full clean and press finisher 27 kg 30/30 x10. Tired.

SA Chris

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This crag has access issues. It is an issue if you have the misfortune to access it.

I laughed, might use that.

cheque

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M- Nothing.

T- Walk to Bell Hagg and back.

W- Nothing.

T- Deadlifting. 5 reps each at 20, 25 & 30kg then 2 reps each at 60, 70, 80, 90, 100 and 105kg. 105 is 1&3/4 body weight and a new post-broken back PB.  :weakbench:

My other half joins in “Iron Thursday” with me now and we filmed each other to assess our form. I’d never done this before so it was interesting- my lower back is textbook while my upper back is less so but it’s hard to tell how much of this is poor form and how much is just due to my fucked-up back which always has a weird angle in it now. At 100 and 105 I pretty much do the lift in two stages, the first of which straightens my legs most of the way then a slow lift which gets my hips forward but is mainly in the back.

F- Walk to and around the Bell Hagg area.

S- Same as Friday.

S- Plan was for 3x8 pull-ups, 3x35 push-ups. It was hard and did 8, 7 and 5 pull-ups (so the same number as last weeks session just with more in the first set) and 35, 35 & 33 push-ups. Total failure on the last set.

Pretty much a slightly more intense copy-paste from last week. Getting a bit stronger but less fit and didn’t fingerboard again. :spank:

Murph

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Fantastic on the DL PB cheque!!  :strongbench:

nai

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M - board project. Managed the third move but only once.  Changed last move as it was too easy
Max hangs - scores ok
TRX - low row, Ys, Ts twaeked shoulder. Reverses

T - 3x10 30kg Front Squat, 2x14kg OH Squat (had to nail from final rep S2), 2x15+ 30kg hip thrust, 1x10kg 1, 21kg one leg HT , tried some light SL DL (20kg), 2x10 hamstring ext variations
 
W - Board - did the project, probably only because I wore Solutions rather than old Anasazis with holes in the toes. Anticlimatic
4RR, improvements.
shoulder feeling iffy though

Th added and swapped around holds on the board.

F
3x10 mins setting and working problems
4RR decided to shield shoulder and do BW hangs on smaller edges. Repeaters on a 10mm edge is fun.
Conditioning with bands

S added more holds

Sun
As Friday

Nibile

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T- Deadlifting.
Good news!
Play it safe, though.
A slightly rou ded upper back is no problem as long as it's solid and controlled.
As for the lift itself, in the initial stage hips and shoulders should raise at the same rate, leaving the spine angle constant. It's difficult.
In the DL topic there are a few videos. I highly recommend Dan John's ones.
I also highly recommend a trap bar. Mush safer and more versatile.

Nibile

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Will Hunt

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These posts might need to move to this week's Power Club?

shark

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These posts might need to move to this week's Power Club?

Done  :thumbsup:

Coops_13

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M: TA-focused core. Wrist strengthening. First run in c. 4 years - grim. 1 mile run, 08:25 - max HR 197

T: Wrist strengthening. 100 press-ups. 10 Front lever max holds. Lower body stretching

W: Wrist strengthening. 100 pull-ups. One are max hangs, 7s holds. 2 sets -20lb, -25lb (R, L), 4 sets -25lb, -30lb. Close to the 10% aim! Finger Curl hypertrophy 40lb.
1 mile run. 08:00 - max HR 197

T: Wrist strengthening. 100 press-ups. 300 core movements. Weights - Biceps, shoulders, lateral and front raise * 5 reps * 3 sets

F: 100 pull-ups.  Beastly 6C repeaters workout. Lower body stretching.

S: 1.5 mile run, 12:21. Max HR 186

S: 2 mile walk with pup

Wrist feeling a lot more sore after Friday, been pain-free for weeks now. Maybe all those press-ups were taking their toll. 1350 press-ups and 1125 pull-ups since lockdown

JohnM

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Quote
Hey John I can't remember: why did you get into running?

Ha ha, good question! I got into it for a while because my shoulder was injured. But now I quite like it as a way of seeing lots of mountains and I can also push quite hard compared to climbing where I just seem to get injured. It could be the route cause of my fatigue though!

cheque

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Fuck, sorry about that... cheers for fixing Shark.

Cheers Murph, I think I said the other week that The back pain I experience day-to-day has decreased since I’ve been deadlifting again this year. It’s a good exercise for me as it works the bits most fucked-up in my accident. Squats is the other (possibly even better) but without a rack in my flat I can’t do them on lockdown.

Cheers for the advice Nibs. I’ve always been aware of correct form and since my accident I’m super careful (physio said not to aim for 1RM and I only attempt new weights in 5kg increments these days.  :ang: Really good advice to focus on having a constant angle- I need to get a video of me lifting light with perfect form to compare as my back is just too crooked to make a meaningful comparison to online resources.

Murph

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That's quite good that though Mike. Effort. Thinking how far you've come that sounds like a good lift to me. You've given me an idea and I just did some kettlebell squats entirely inspired by your efforts.

Nibs - love the rip got his book where he says "A strong man is more useful than a weak man. And harder to kill."

teestub

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Squats is the other (possibly even better) but without a rack in my flat I can’t do them on lockdown.


I think we may have discussed previously, but assisted one leg squats should be doable on lockdown (to some extent?) and may be more transferable to rock climbing than barbell squats anyway.

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Good work all, particularly TT and Cheque! Sounds like a particularly involved week Harry, have a drink!

M- Anderson hangs. Added 5kg as a base weight on the edges. Successful on all apart from the slopers which remain nails. Just about got to the end of the set with some nestling. Some assisted one armers and TRX afterwards.

T- Core on the bar. Still hard but not as bad as last time. Started experimenting with a front lever.

W - Max hangs. 31.25kg. Completed the set again with same issues on half crimp form. Could definitely do with a vest to distribute the weight a bit better. Some TRX after.

T - Anderson hangs. Added 6.5kg on the edges, 1.1 kg on the 10mm micro and a depressing nothing on the slopers. Seem to have hit the ceiling here now as was failing on the last few reps. Later that evening checked to see if fingerboard was plumb. It was not, 5 degrees overhanging when you actually pull onto it. At least it explains why the slopers remain so difficult. TRX and one armers.

F - rest.

S - Max Hangs. A bizarre session; new PB at 32.5kg with great form and plenty left in the tank. No reason why so will just have to try and add a bit more now.

S - Repeaters. Consistently difficult again. Felt wasted afterwards but hopefully it is doing something...

Another riveting week. Laying off the cycling as it seems to aggravate something in my groin so walking instead. Will change things up at the end of the month, probably go back to 1 arm hangs.






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M - board session. Was meant to fingerboard but had too much fun making up new problems. Tried project again but couldn't match high point. Made half a dozen new ones on edges from warm up to advanced warm up sort of level. Tried pinch project and dropped last move. Then made up two harder ones on edges, did all moves on one but couldn't link, then couldn't do 2 moves on other. Did 30 mins of yoga in the evening.

T - warm up on board repeating easier stuff from day before. Then hangboard, on 19mm edge half crimp did 6r 7/3 repeaters 1x +10kg, 1x +19.5kg & 3x +24.5kg (failed last hang of last set). Easily a new PB for this. Superset all of these with circuits of 5 strict pull ups +4.5kg, 5 leg raises +4.5kg, 10 press ups and 30s planks. Next did 1x 7/3 on the medium slopers +10kg and superset with 10 pull ups on the 19mm edge. Tried another set on the slopers but failed the 2nd hang and just completed with bodyweight, then another 10 edge pull ups. Finished with a bodyweight set on the slopers and then just about squeezed out 8 pull ups on the large outside slots.

W - honestly can't remember what I did. Might have done some yoga but not sure.

T - bit of yoga first thing then warm up on board. Took a few goes to do some things from Monday, but managed my pinch project first go. Tough one. Then one arm hangs, outside large slots on 2k, 6 sets of 6/4 repeaters alternating between half crimp and open w/ 12kg assist (10kg plates). Also a couple of 10s hangs on 19mm edge w/ 18kg assist (15kg plates) - pulley system seems to give 2-3kg extra. Went back on the board and made up a new one doing all moves, plus failed on some others and made a nice 20 move circuit which I managed.

F - board again. Did my 20 move circuit. Struggled on basic warm ups. But then did one of the slopey edge advanced warm up things first go which was satisfying, before I failed several times on a crimpier one. Managed one I'd set the day before. Tried a move I've not done before and did it in a few goes, but couldn't do full problem in a few tries. Finished with 5 sets of 10 pull ups, 20 push ups superset (desperate), then some stretching.

S - 10km walk

S - board. Managed 3 of my advanced warm ups all first go, where previously they'd taken a few each. Tried longstanding project. 4 goes from start and dropped last move twice. Did the last 3 move link at least. Tried another project with a move I've only done once; couldn't repeat it. Finished making a new one on gastons and dropped the last move from start.

Easier week next week, same intensity but less volume / more rest, having had 5 weeks of training now.

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67.4kg

M- BM2k smalls, open crimp max hangs: 15 sets up to +45kg x 5s. 6 working sets pulley assists -12kg x 5s on right, -17kg x 5s on left. Left always used to be my strong side but not since my index MCP joint has crumbled and fused over last few years.. Five sets finishers on BM micros up to +30kg x5s on 10mm. Rower 1hr

T- DL block lifts, 15 sets up to 220 off 9cm blocks. Skin hurt so resorted to straps for working sets.

W-  rest

T- campus board 5 sets per side 4 to 1 drop downs

F- ring muscle-ups, only 5 sets but PB’d with 4 reps twice

S- BM2k smalls, open crimp pulley assists max hangs: 11 sets up -11kg x 5s on right, -15kg x 5s on left. 7 working sets BM micros (+20kg x 5s) x 5.

S- DL block lifts. Terrible session. My beloved Sabos kept slipping all over the place; never had that problem before.. then numerous interruptions which is one down side of home gym. Did manage progression with 220 off 7cm blocks, but then session fell apart.
Came back in the evening determined to make good with a 5x5 of whisky deadlifts at 160, but two sets in had to bail as apparently I was “making the house shake and no-one can get to sleep” >:(

First flat week of COVID training club but all grist to the mill. At least have the wood to make the long planned 40 deg and campus board now, so plenty to look forward to..

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STG: stay mentally stable, do something active every day, don’t get injured, work finger strength every other day.
MTG-LTG: who knows?

M - One armed fingerboard max. hangs. Experimenting with different ways of doing this: large holds with a little counterbalance help, smaller holds with a lot of counterbalancing help. Decided to focus on the latter.
T - Depressing work stuff. Shoulder strength exercises: IYTs, planks, handstands.
W - Knee strength (high step-ups, single leg squats). One-arm max. hangs: tweaked the left hand middle finger almost immediately. A bit frustrating.
T - Shoulders. Knees.
F - Long walk on the Heath with the lad.
S - Shoulders. A few pull-ups to test the finger, tolerated this.
S - (Light) weighted pull-ups. Knees.

Plus brisk walk on the Health every day.

Kept active every day, got some small jobs done around the house, still have a job unlike many, haven't murdered any of the family so can count that as an overall win. The evening walks have been great: as well as the usual foxes and parakeets, we’ve seen green woodpeckers, song thrushes, common frogs, pipistrelles and lots of rabbits.

The one arm hangs didn’t go well. I need unwieldy amounts of assistance if I use a counterbalance. Need to rethink this: scales or perhaps a larger edge as tt is doing?  Work continues...  classic email from the VC this week: three paragraphs on what a wonderful job we were doing in troubled times blah blah blah, fourth paragraph telling us our pay rise will be frozen this year. It’s the little things you remember. This is probably a sign of things to come: most UK Universities will be bracing themselves for redundancies in the next 3-4 months. We have few overseas students and the “optics” of cutting a health professions course wouldn’t be good so I imagine we’re safer than most. 

Plan: resume one arm hangs.

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It could be the route cause of my fatigue though!
Cheers!
That's for sure!

tomtom

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The one arm hangs didn’t go well. I need unwieldy amounts of assistance if I use a counterbalance. Need to rethink this: scales or perhaps a larger edge as tt is doing?  Work continues...  classic email from the VC this week: three paragraphs on what a wonderful job we were doing in troubled times blah blah blah, fourth paragraph telling us our pay rise will be frozen this year. It’s the little things you remember. This is probably a sign of things to come: most UK Universities will be bracing themselves for redundancies in the next 3-4 months. We have few overseas students and the “optics” of cutting a health professions course wouldn’t be good so I imagine we’re safer than most. 

Stick with it Duncan (on both issues...) for the 1 arm hangs - I deliberately used the larger hold to get my shoulder and arm used to the position. I'm due another set today and may start later this week moving to a smaller hold and seeing how shit I actually am! Though - I loved being able to keep an arm bent but one of the moments I enjoyed alot was (with assist) after a couple of weeks being able to gently twist around with bent arm etc.. a completely new body movement that felt rather like learning to walk etc.. Body - turn around so I can see the timer - and it did!!

Anyway - I've had pulley systems before etc.. and always found the pull/pushing down with one arm really weird. The foot loop assistance was much easier for me to use (for me with therabands - though could be with a pulley). I 'calibrated' my therabands using  a digital equiv of a spring balance (handheld - used for airport baggage weight) lying on the floor pulling the loop down :D The downside of therabands is that they work for 1 arm hangs (like I'm doing) but for one arm pullup training the assist suddenly drops off as you get towards 90 degrees!!

Work wise - I'm kind of in denial. I'm effectively working 1.5 days a week at the moment and its total firefighting with editing roles, student supervision and the dregs of teaching (oh - and the marking I'm ignoring for now). Fuck knows what will happen in Sept - its clear from our missives on high no-one really knows. We too have very few OS students so those losses will be minimal - but we already had bad admissions figures domestically and I can't see these getting better. I also fail to see how we can have new students arriving in September. Social distancing in lecture theatres, for teaching, labs etc.. is hard - but workable. However - getting 10k students all together in one place from all over the country would seem to be epidemiologically dumb. Freshers flu etc... but with CV19 attached... Unless something changes dramatically in the next 4.5 months - its going to be virtual semester 1. I'm mercifully being seconded into a research role for 2-3 years - but that counts for nothing if the whole instutution goes to the wall - which is certainly a possibility. We already had a £20m deficit and were just starting the compulsory redundancy rounds after two voluntary.

duncan

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The one arm hangs didn’t go well. I need unwieldy amounts of assistance if I use a counterbalance. Need to rethink this: scales or perhaps a larger edge as tt is doing?  Work continues...  classic email from the VC this week: three paragraphs on what a wonderful job we were doing in troubled times blah blah blah, fourth paragraph telling us our pay rise will be frozen this year. It’s the little things you remember. This is probably a sign of things to come: most UK Universities will be bracing themselves for redundancies in the next 3-4 months. We have few overseas students and the “optics” of cutting a health professions course wouldn’t be good so I imagine we’re safer than most. 

Stick with it Duncan (on both issues...) for the 1 arm hangs - I deliberately used the larger hold to get my shoulder and arm used to the position. I'm due another set today and may start later this week moving to a smaller hold and seeing how shit I actually am! Though - I loved being able to keep an arm bent but one of the moments I enjoyed alot was (with assist) after a couple of weeks being able to gently twist around with bent arm etc.. a completely new body movement that felt rather like learning to walk etc.. Body - turn around so I can see the timer - and it did!!

Anyway - I've had pulley systems before etc.. and always found the pull/pushing down with one arm really weird. The foot loop assistance was much easier for me to use (for me with therabands - though could be with a pulley). I 'calibrated' my therabands using  a digital equiv of a spring balance (handheld - used for airport baggage weight) lying on the floor pulling the loop down :D The downside of therabands is that they work for 1 arm hangs (like I'm doing) but for one arm pullup training the assist suddenly drops off as you get towards 90 degrees!!

Work wise - I'm kind of in denial. I'm effectively working 1.5 days a week at the moment and its total firefighting with editing roles, student supervision and the dregs of teaching (oh - and the marking I'm ignoring for now). Fuck knows what will happen in Sept - its clear from our missives on high no-one really knows. We too have very few OS students so those losses will be minimal - but we already had bad admissions figures domestically and I can't see these getting better. I also fail to see how we can have new students arriving in September. Social distancing in lecture theatres, for teaching, labs etc.. is hard - but workable. However - getting 10k students all together in one place from all over the country would seem to be epidemiologically dumb. Freshers flu etc... but with CV19 attached... Unless something changes dramatically in the next 4.5 months - its going to be virtual semester 1. I'm mercifully being seconded into a research role for 2-3 years - but that counts for nothing if the whole instutution goes to the wall - which is certainly a possibility. We already had a £20m deficit and were just starting the compulsory redundancy rounds after two voluntary.

Thanks TT. I’m sticking with one arm hangs. I’m fine pulling down with the other arm but manoeuvring the 30kg counterbalance I need for a 20mm edge felt like a risk to floorboards and toes. I’ll try a bigger hold and perhaps the bathroom scales.

I'm thankful my job in some form seems relatively secure in the short term and this crisis will probably increase interest in health-related degrees in the medium term. Our leadership also appears to be in denial about what will happen in September: we’re being asked to simultaneously plan timetables as if 100 new students will be doing lectures and practicals (ha!) whilst also preparing for everything to go online. The latter seem more likely though If I was 18 I’d be thinking 20/21 would be an excellent time to do a gap year somewhere safer than London (China perhaps?). I wouldn’t be thinking of paying £9000 for an online course, the relative failure of MOOCs proved you couldn’t even give them away. The UK university strategy of the last 20 years - mortgaging themselves for £billions to enhance the ‘student experience’ with luxury real estate whilst casualising the teachers - suggests the leadership don’t believe this either. Someone, somewhere, must be planning what we to do if 50% don't turn up but it's probably seen as too shocking to share with the troops. It feels like the UK University bubble economy is about to burst and if I was exposed, a student landlord for example, I might be examining my portfolio.

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Thanks TT. I’m sticking with one arm hangs. I’m fine pulling down with the other arm but manoeuvring the 30kg counterbalance I need for a 20mm edge felt like a risk to floorboards and toes. I’ll try a bigger hold and perhaps the bathroom scales.

Definitely go with a bigger hold, I'm doing mine on a 30mm edge atm which feels much better than loading up massive amounts of assistance on the pulley. Just make sure you're being strict with your grip, I.e. if you're meant to be doing a half crimp hang make sure you really are in half crimp.

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I tried making the 50mm (two pad) edge I was using down to 30-35mm yesterday (one pad when half crimped - 1 and a bit when open) and oh.. how much harder that was 😂😂😂

Went from zero assist (just) to c.-20kg and I could hold a half crimp for about a second before it slumped into some open hand draggy horror 😃

That put me back in my place!!

@duncan - we’ve just had the missive to expect virtual a Semester 1 with student return in S2.  Options to back load the year being mooted.

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Lockdown goals:

Try to get weight back down to 80something kg
Build board and get stronger / fitter than I was before all this started (not hard)
Keep up regular training and more running

M - Pressing - KB press, 100 pushups, KB goblet squat / good mornings / 1 arm deadlift, theraband triceps extension,DB flexor / extensor curls - good session. Need some heavier KBs as the heaviest I have is 18kg
T - FB repeaters (maintaining strict HC - less uncomfortable but still needs more time to not grimace), 60 pullups, biceps / hammer curls, ring rows, ring dip holds. Felt much better than previous week
W - Pressing - 3x 10-15sec wall handstand (maybe a bit too fat / heavy for these, which were pretty full-on), KB press, goblet squat / good mornings / 1 arm DL, ring dip holds. Did some tuck front lever practise, but a bit nervous about my pull-up bar ripping and landing on my back on wooden floor. Also did some German hang stretches.
T - World's slowest 3 mile run. Lovely track I've not ventured on before. Some small hills. Managed to overtake some even slower people but pretty fucked by the end.
F - FB and pulls. Repeater session felt better than before. Pullups - now up to sets of 7 (@102kg ish, so feeling optimistic at being strong when my weight drops), biceps / hammer curls, ring rows, wide ring pull-ups (these are evil - should've done them earlier in the session)
S - Took kids for 3 mile walk. Finished 5th book - yay - so bought litre of Tanqueray gin, and spent the evening mixing martinis and generally letting hair down.
S - Gin-head rest day

Weight didn't seem to drop much this week - evening exercise sessions possibly encouraging subsequent overconsumption.

Timber supplier has not followed through on promise of getting wood to us so far - need to sort this out as I think the board will help a lot of motivation and optimism at actually being able to climb some stuff when we can get out again.

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The one arm hangs didn’t go well. I need unwieldy amounts of assistance if I use a counterbalance. Need to rethink this: scales or perhaps a larger edge as tt is doing?  Work continues...  classic email from the VC this week: three paragraphs on what a wonderful job we were doing in troubled times blah blah blah, fourth paragraph telling us our pay rise will be frozen this year. It’s the little things you remember. This is probably a sign of things to come: most UK Universities will be bracing themselves for redundancies in the next 3-4 months. We have few overseas students and the “optics” of cutting a health professions course wouldn’t be good so I imagine we’re safer than most. 

Stick with it Duncan (on both issues...) for the 1 arm hangs - I deliberately used the larger hold to get my shoulder and arm used to the position. I'm due another set today and may start later this week moving to a smaller hold and seeing how shit I actually am! Though - I loved being able to keep an arm bent but one of the moments I enjoyed alot was (with assist) after a couple of weeks being able to gently twist around with bent arm etc.. a completely new body movement that felt rather like learning to walk etc.. Body - turn around so I can see the timer - and it did!!

Anyway - I've had pulley systems before etc.. and always found the pull/pushing down with one arm really weird. The foot loop assistance was much easier for me to use (for me with therabands - though could be with a pulley). I 'calibrated' my therabands using  a digital equiv of a spring balance (handheld - used for airport baggage weight) lying on the floor pulling the loop down :D The downside of therabands is that they work for 1 arm hangs (like I'm doing) but for one arm pullup training the assist suddenly drops off as you get towards 90 degrees!!

Work wise - I'm kind of in denial. I'm effectively working 1.5 days a week at the moment and its total firefighting with editing roles, student supervision and the dregs of teaching (oh - and the marking I'm ignoring for now). Fuck knows what will happen in Sept - its clear from our missives on high no-one really knows. We too have very few OS students so those losses will be minimal - but we already had bad admissions figures domestically and I can't see these getting better. I also fail to see how we can have new students arriving in September. Social distancing in lecture theatres, for teaching, labs etc.. is hard - but workable. However - getting 10k students all together in one place from all over the country would seem to be epidemiologically dumb. Freshers flu etc... but with CV19 attached... Unless something changes dramatically in the next 4.5 months - its going to be virtual semester 1. I'm mercifully being seconded into a research role for 2-3 years - but that counts for nothing if the whole instutution goes to the wall - which is certainly a possibility. We already had a £20m deficit and were just starting the compulsory redundancy rounds after two voluntary.

Thanks TT. I’m sticking with one arm hangs. I’m fine pulling down with the other arm but manoeuvring the 30kg counterbalance I need for a 20mm edge felt like a risk to floorboards and toes. I’ll try a bigger hold and perhaps the bathroom scales.

I'm thankful my job in some form seems relatively secure in the short term and this crisis will probably increase interest in health-related degrees in the medium term. Our leadership also appears to be in denial about what will happen in September: we’re being asked to simultaneously plan timetables as if 100 new students will be doing lectures and practicals (ha!) whilst also preparing for everything to go online. The latter seem more likely though If I was 18 I’d be thinking 20/21 would be an excellent time to do a gap year somewhere safer than London (China perhaps?). I wouldn’t be thinking of paying £9000 for an online course, the relative failure of MOOCs proved you couldn’t even give them away. The UK university strategy of the last 20 years - mortgaging themselves for £billions to enhance the ‘student experience’ with luxury real estate whilst casualising the teachers - suggests the leadership don’t believe this either. Someone, somewhere, must be planning what we to do if 50% don't turn up but it's probably seen as too shocking to share with the troops. It feels like the UK University bubble economy is about to burst and if I was exposed, a student landlord for example, I might be examining my portfolio.

This university discussion is interesting. It must be really shit to be a first year student at the moment. University is obviously about getting a degree but its also a really formative life experience for so many students and they will be missing out on so much independence and life learning if the universities don't restart. I also think that many will examine their options as £9000 for an online course does seem a bit steep. wouldnt be surprised to see an explosion in mnasters courses in a few years though as the current cohort may decide they want a bit more of the student life!

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I also feel a bit sorry for kids in their final year at a school. When I picked my kids up from school on the day lockdown  started the P7s were having a half hearted attempt at a celebration of what was probably their last day of primary school. No last term with their mates, no leaving concert, no prom, no residential trip to the Cairgorms.

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Yes - 9k for a half virtual year will seem very steep...

Many will defer I expect.

Masters are interesting - I fully expect graduate recruitment will be largely non existent this summer :( so yes people with time to do a masters - but again how can we justify 9K - or much higher for some courses.

As Duncan said MOOCs (massively online open courses or something) have all been flops or failures at our place. Usual cycle of excitement - investment - failure. I have no teaching (yet) in S1 so less concerned - and 80-90 percent of what I teach can be delivered online.

A final point - people always talk about the student experience etc. But having done half a dozen zoom workshops or lectures - they are utterly soulless to deliver. You get nothing back from a screen of blank boxes (everyone hides camera and mutes voice) - there is no frisson or excitement before - no feedback that you always get from a room of students. A stats lecture at 9am on a Monday morning gives me delivering it more feedback and satisfaction that a super interesting lecture delivered via zoom etc...

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I also feel a bit sorry for kids in their final year at a school. When I picked my kids up from school on the day lockdown  started the P7s were having a half hearted attempt at a celebration of what was probably their last day of primary school. No last term with their mates, no leaving concert, no prom, no residential trip to the Cairgorms.

It made me really upset thinking about this at our school. These are formative experiences that I hope we can organise further down the line, somehow.

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I fully expect graduate recruitment will be largely non existent this summer

We aren't doing a graduate / placement scheme this year, but that is more current state of the industry driven than anything else.

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I fully expect graduate recruitment will be largely non existent this summer

We aren't doing a graduate / placement scheme this year, but that is more current state of the industry driven than anything else.
Lots of the larger firms are and will keep doing graduate schemes, I think pretty much all internships were canned though...

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Logically though, you'd have to presume there will be fewer of them even if they nominally continue to offer them. They'll certainly be paying them less. The internships seem a strange one to can given they frequently pay peanuts anyway. I would cynically expect the number of un/badly paid internships to increase while graduate schemes decline.

TT - lectures by Zoom sound well depressing. Wonder what the 'rules' on deferring? Presumably you couldn't have a whole cohort doing that or it would simply make admissions the next year a nightmare?

Regarding fees, my point was more that in a year or two I would hope universities will be functioning more normally which negates the impact of the fees. I am a 3k a year alumnus so easy for me to say, but I've always thought of student loans as a good example of bullshit economics; so few pay it back anyway that I always saw it as monopoly money. Very different from a institutional perspective I'm sure!

 

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