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Lockdown training fails (Read 10798 times)

Andy W

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Lockdown training fails
April 25, 2020, 06:39:34 pm
Am I alone here, I’ve been ostensibly training Since lockdown began (in France) I’ve plateaued several weeks ago, my elbows hurt and I’ve put on weight!

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#1 Re: Lockdown training fails
April 25, 2020, 11:33:19 pm
I’m really struggling for motivation. I whipped myself into reasonable shape over winter in anticipation of spring and summer, only for lockdown to kick in just as the weather got good.

I think if I knew when it was going to finish I might be able to focus more, but at the moment I kinda think why bother.

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#2 Re: Lockdown training fails
April 26, 2020, 09:20:12 am
I’m quite fit and quite strong, but I’ve not been “climbing” fit for some time and despite a fairly strong comeback last spring/summer, I herniated a disc last September and lost around four months of any sort of exercise. Ironically, I started climbing again at the end of January, despite being on the road (attending courses) through Jan and to mid Mar. Got some quality time in in TCA Glasgow. Returned home, to the fucking wall I own, only to close the place entirely four days later.

Now, we have deep cleaned the place and I have to inspect the premises, regularly, so I decided a “hold and structure” inspection was a good idea.

Only to tear/strain badly my hamstring, heel hooking last week. Tried again yesterday. Agony.

Also, despite losing some weight, I’m still 10 kg too heavy.

Because snacks.

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#3 Re: Lockdown training fails
April 26, 2020, 09:32:35 am
Ouch!

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#4 Re: Lockdown training fails
April 26, 2020, 11:04:38 am
Torn hamstrings are a fucker Matt - really painful and slow to heal.

On the upside, I’ve found you can still do a lot of climbing while they are on the mend, so long as you are careful and very disciplined about not doing moves that pull on them.

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#5 Re: Lockdown training fails
April 26, 2020, 11:27:42 am
Can't resist linking The Onion:

https://local.theonion.com/man-not-sure-why-he-thought-most-psychologically-taxing-1843004933

And a much more serious article which is making a similar point:

https://www.chronicle.com/article/Why-You-Should-Ignore-All-That/248366

This is a traumatic and incredible stressful event that we're all going through here. Loading on extra pressure to be at maximum psyche and crushing our training all the time seems ... unhelpful.

I'm all for training as a way to keep moving, not go totally stir-crazy, avoid losing too much climbing strength, give me some structure to my day and some small goals I have a lot of control over.

But yeah, we can probably afford to be kinder to ourselves.

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#6 Re: Lockdown training fails
April 26, 2020, 11:44:17 am
Aw Slabs, you should see my garden!

Hadn’t touched it in two years, it was just a mass of chest high brambles and ivy.

But I kicked that suckers ass. I feel almost domesticated.

Even with a limp and much swearing if I turned too quickly...

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#7 Re: Lockdown training fails
April 26, 2020, 12:33:16 pm
Good thread. I've finally touched a spade in three years and started turning soil to get rid of the weeds. I imagine it's like painting with numbers but hurts your back.

I snapped my pulley rig system which was an old inner tube looped over a pull up bar with two milk bottles tied to the end. 8 pints of water is enough to need two sheets of Bounty.

Having never really trained at home I have no reference point as to how well I'm doing compared to my projects or yellows at the depot. So when I find finishing one set of 6 repeaters as Varian suggests hard work, I give myself a pat on the back, check the beta on Cypher again and have some biscuits.


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#8 Re: Lockdown training fails
April 26, 2020, 01:21:45 pm
Been doing some shoulder stuff on parallel bars which has been good fun & seeing good results. Seems to translate well into having a better front lever too (though still a long way off).

Really went for it yesterday on some stretched after a little run and managed to get a hernia! Very weird pushing it back in... Video GP appointment booked for tomorrow but now totally have an excuse to still avoid doing core work at least.

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#9 Re: Lockdown training fails
April 27, 2020, 09:48:20 am
Ouch James! and Matt!

I'm working my arse off right now, plus trying to school 2 kids, so pretty fucking knackered most days, having a few sessions on the new garage board, but fuck all else. Not even running. Went over the 14 stone barrier for the first time in about 4 years, need to sort my shit out.

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#10 Re: Lockdown training fails
April 27, 2020, 10:58:00 am

And a much more serious article which is making a similar point:

https://www.chronicle.com/article/Why-You-Should-Ignore-All-That/248366

This is a traumatic and incredible stressful event that we're all going through here. Loading on extra pressure to be at maximum psyche and crushing our training all the time seems ... unhelpful.

I'm all for training as a way to keep moving, not go totally stir-crazy, avoid losing too much climbing strength, give me some structure to my day and some small goals I have a lot of control over.

But yeah, we can probably afford to be kinder to ourselves.

That's a good piece. My better half did her GCSE's through a civil war, which was basically a bit like this lockdown but with more bombings and electricity cuts. This time around she's concentrated on getting her work done at home, keeping the flat pleasant and taking walks to look at flowers. Not a hint of self-improvement talk.

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#11 Re: Lockdown training fails
April 27, 2020, 12:45:50 pm
I read "fails" as "falls" and wondered how the hell you are doing training falls!

I've yet to touch the beastmaker.

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#12 Re: Lockdown training fails
April 27, 2020, 12:57:54 pm
At home with an 18 month  old and 7 year old, although wonderful seriously depletes energy.

Oh and Chris you can have training falls... I pinged of my board and landed on my fan!

1st world problems I know 🙂

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#13 Re: Lockdown training fails
April 27, 2020, 01:14:07 pm
I feel like this is the thread for me to pop my lurker cherry on, having just built a 5 rung (Moon spacing) campus board in the living room I'm tempted just to film every session for the potential fail video when I either fall and break something (or myself).

My only option for a board is outdoors so will have to be a bigger undertaking than first imagined.

Edit: It would appear I've already popped that cherry. Sorry to be a tease!

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#14 Re: Lockdown training fails
April 27, 2020, 01:29:57 pm
At home with an 18 month  old and 7 year old, although wonderful seriously depletes energy.

Oh and Chris you can have training falls... I pinged of my board and landed on my fan!

1st world problems I know 🙂

Surely with social distancing you shouldn't allow your fans in to watch you climb?

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#15 Re: Lockdown training fails
April 27, 2020, 02:20:40 pm
I'm with luke, struggling for fingerboard motivation when no idea when I'll be able to use it. I'm usually pretty good at motivating myself for that. Did a good 2 months of only home training when I did my meniscus in, but there was always an end in sight there. I think I've officially turned into a runner now. I migtt even get some shorter shorts.

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#16 Re: Lockdown training fails
April 27, 2020, 02:29:42 pm
I'm...struggling for fingerboard motivation...

Among all the craziness of a global pandemic and Trump’s daily brain farts this is the most shocking thing I’ve read all year.

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#17 Re: Lockdown training fails
April 27, 2020, 02:31:06 pm
I migtt even get some shorter shorts.

80s Jerry style silky joggers.

Actually Decathlon ones are my go to.

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#18 Re: Lockdown training fails
April 27, 2020, 03:53:39 pm
I am doing way more than i have in years. Not just finger boarding either, weights, TRX and cross fit style intervals with my youngest. Playing rugby and footy in the garden and walking the dog 5-6 miles. Board will be up in a week so even more to do.

Normally i am away at work a lot so never get any consistency but no excuse now. Whilst everything else has gone to shit i told my self i have to make the most of this opportunity. Time is about the only upside to this whole thing.

Will fucking hate myself if i dont.

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#19 Re: Lockdown training fails
April 27, 2020, 04:13:56 pm
I'm with luke, struggling for fingerboard motivation when no idea when I'll be able to use it. I'm usually pretty good at motivating myself for that. Did a good 2 months of only home training when I did my meniscus in, but there was always an end in sight there. I think I've officially turned into a runner now. I migtt even get some shorter shorts.

I also started to get into the running thing, but found it had a real negative impact on my flexibility, which then requires more time/commitment for stretching. I am finding it the perfect time to build strength base, short intense sessions, with plenty of time for rest, no temptation to go out for a project, when you should be resting. Also being slightly overweight is not so much of a problem "train heavy" and I am a big convert to the use of a pulley assist. Do some benchmark tests, lattice rung / 20mm edge and also the single digit first pad max lifts, really good to find which fingers are really doing the work and where the weakness/old injuries are, this really helped me to see the progress. Keep it simple, set some goals and just build it really steady, I am also enjoying not having the pressure to rush and the thing with strength gains is that they will last. I got a lot from Dan's advice on the lockdown finger board thread. 

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#20 Re: Lockdown training fails
April 27, 2020, 04:22:33 pm
I am doing way more than i have in years.
#smug

Get yourself back to the power club. This one’s for people to lament their injuries, lack of motivation and beer guts  :ras:

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#21 Re: Lockdown training fails
April 27, 2020, 06:27:18 pm
Beer guts still coming on though.

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#22 Re: Lockdown training fails
April 27, 2020, 06:53:36 pm
I'm applying the Dunne "train heavy climb light" principle.

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#23 Re: Lockdown training fails
April 29, 2020, 11:52:23 am
I'm applying the Dunne "train heavy climb light" principle.


I have been applying this for years, just need to figure out the climbing light part!

I think this pretty much looks like the prefect lockdown challenge; includes drinking beer, use of home schooling equipment, very simple and focus on a definite area of weakness!



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#24 Re: Lockdown training fails
April 29, 2020, 12:05:28 pm
And getting injured to fuck.

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#25 Re: Lockdown training fails
April 29, 2020, 02:10:24 pm
I particularly impressed by how blase he was about losing finger nails :sick: while training the ruler pull ups! 

I think pinky pulls could be trained safely with a pulley system although by my current calculations this would require approximately ~70kg on the pulley!! The beer drinking part can also be trained although I note that was were Ondra failed!

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#26 Re: Lockdown training fails
May 01, 2020, 07:20:30 pm
When the lockdown was announced I fingerboarded every 2-3 days (normal outside climbing intervals) for the first couple of weeks. This made my right hand Dupuytren's sore and tight but my left hand was fine. They never really get sore when proper climbing.
So my "one arm" plans are back on the probably never wishlist.

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#27 Re: Lockdown training fails
May 01, 2020, 08:38:10 pm


Knife, onion and a fucking idiot, buys you six steristrips and a couple hours in MIU...

And screws yer training.


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#28 Re: Lockdown training fails
May 01, 2020, 09:16:22 pm
Wow Beth’s legs are hairy for a girl. I like her attitude though. Since the lockdown started I’ve been enjoying binging on beer and pringles every Friday night. Have put on about half a stone, fine by me as I know when the time comes I can lose it just as quickly. Doing on average 1 FB sesh a week and it doesn’t involve pushing the added weight beyond ‘maintenance’ level. Trying to maintain forearm aerobic fitness by avoiding being shot while traversing at secret quiet spot x once or twice a week.  Power is currently right down at bumbly levels, wish I had a board. I have various new route projects I’d love to send this year and it started to dawn on me last week that lockdown will end soon and we’ll suddenly be allowed out to play. If this year isn’t to be only a trad resting upwards year then I should probably begin ramping up the training starting this weekend.

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#29 Re: Lockdown training fails
May 01, 2020, 11:28:18 pm
Wow Beth’s legs are hairy for a girl. I like her attitude though. Since the lockdown started I’ve been enjoying binging on beer and pringles every Friday night. 
Whaaat! Only every Friday night? I knew I was doing something wrong.

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#30 Re: Lockdown training fails
May 02, 2020, 05:42:36 am
I've done naff all for a few weeks. My reasoning being that I can't sustain a long period of fingerboard training without tooling myself in some way.

I also can't be arsed.

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#31 Re: Lockdown training fails
May 02, 2020, 08:43:11 am
Knife, onion and a fucking idiot, buys you six steristrips and a couple hours in MIU...

That's more steristrips but way less fucking idiocy than I managed with a stick blender a couple of weeks back (top tip: don't use your finger to unclog the blades while your other hand is still on the control buttons).

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#32 Re: Lockdown training fails
May 02, 2020, 09:03:18 am
Knife, onion and a fucking idiot, buys you six steristrips and a couple hours in MIU...

That's more steristrips but way less fucking idiocy than I managed with a stick blender a couple of weeks back (top tip: don't use your finger to unclog the blades while your other hand is still on the control buttons).

My late wife did exactly the same thing, prepping baby food, four hours before we were meant to get on a 9 hr flight. Drove herself and baby to the ER in Jebil Ali (wrong way for the airport and I was still at work). Four stitches later, she met me at the airport, with all our luggage, a baby on her hip and finally let me know what happened.

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#33 Re: Lockdown training fails
May 02, 2020, 10:04:18 am
Since France locked down on March 14th, I have made no training gains, which is a shame because de confinement looks likely to end a week on Monday. So I have a week to get fit, lose some weight and prepare for what will most likely be a continuation of the wet, humid weather we currently have. A whole spring season gone!

In perspective though, these are small tribulations.  It's looking likely that with increasing worries about kids and virus loads etc, that we won't be sending our daughters back to creche and school. This decision seems like one that many others will make, posing mighty problems for Macron and his plan to re start the economy. I think this problem won't be confined to just France either.

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#34 Re: Lockdown training fails
May 02, 2020, 10:18:15 am
That's more steristrips but way less fucking idiocy than I managed with a stick blender a couple of weeks back (top tip: don't use your finger to unclog the blades while your other hand is still on the control buttons).
No way, I thought I was unique in my stupidity. I did the exact same thing a few months ago!

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#35 Re: Lockdown training fails
May 02, 2020, 07:23:41 pm
Since France locked down on March 14th, I have made no training gains, which is a shame because de confinement looks likely to end a week on Monday. So I have a week to get fit, lose some weight and prepare for what will most likely be a continuation of the wet, humid weather we currently have. A whole spring season gone!

In perspective though, these are small tribulations.  It's looking likely that with increasing worries about kids and virus loads etc, that we won't be sending our daughters back to creche and school. This decision seems like one that many others will make, posing mighty problems for Macron and his plan to re start the economy. I think this problem won't be confined to just France either.

I thought latest stuff was saying viral load isn't as much of an important factor as once thought?

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#36 Re: Lockdown training fails
May 02, 2020, 07:51:57 pm
Since France locked down on March 14th, I have made no training gains, which is a shame because de confinement looks likely to end a week on Monday. So I have a week to get fit, lose some weight and prepare for what will most likely be a continuation of the wet, humid weather we currently have. A whole spring season gone!

In perspective though, these are small tribulations.  It's looking likely that with increasing worries about kids and virus loads etc, that we won't be sending our daughters back to creche and school. This decision seems like one that many others will make, posing mighty problems for Macron and his plan to re start the economy. I think this problem won't be confined to just France either.

I thought latest stuff was saying viral load isn't as much of an important factor as once thought?

Below is the article that I'm using as reference. There does seem to be in France a groundswell of opinion against sending kids back to school.

https://www.theguardian.com/world/2020/may/01/children-as-likely-to-spread-coronavirus-as-adults-says-scientist

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#37 Re: Lockdown training fails
May 02, 2020, 08:27:48 pm
Surely there's enough threads discussing coronavirus without this one being taken over as well.

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#38 Re: Lockdown training fails
May 04, 2020, 11:14:30 am
No way, I thought I was unique in my stupidity. I did the exact same thing a few months ago!

I'm impressed to know that I'm not unique in my stupidity!

In my case, I seem to have got away with not going to A&E -- the NHS 111 website was equivocal when I put in the details, said it depended how deep the main cut was, and I didn't fancy removing all the duct tape and wound pads holding my finger together at that point in order to have a look.

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#39 Re: Lockdown training fails
May 04, 2020, 11:18:38 am
For the first 5-6 weeks I managed to keep my weight down at a reasonable level despite doing very little apart from sitting in front of a computer, but then I really ballooned: mostly thanks to wine and desperate boredom. The dreaded "last third" of the isolation is a real phenomena, and it surely put strain on relationships as well.

Now I will try to combine boredom, anxiety and starvation for the remaining of the time until May 11th.

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#40 Re: Lockdown training fails
May 04, 2020, 11:34:59 am
I'm currently well over half a stone over fighting weight. I've not run in about 3 weeks, as of Friday I'm doing run 5k every day in May challenge, so hopefully things will start to get under better control.

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#41 Re: Lockdown training fails
May 04, 2020, 11:52:07 am
No way, I thought I was unique in my stupidity. I did the exact same thing a few months ago!

I'm impressed to know that I'm not unique in my stupidity!

In my case, I seem to have got away with not going to A&E -- the NHS 111 website was equivocal when I put in the details, said it depended how deep the main cut was, and I didn't fancy removing all the duct tape and wound pads holding my finger together at that point in order to have a look.
I was lucky as my nail was on the blade side so it took most of the impact. But my nail got completely shredded in the process.

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#42 Re: Lockdown training fails
May 04, 2020, 12:52:19 pm
For the first 5-6 weeks I managed to keep my weight down at a reasonable level despite doing very little apart from sitting in front of a computer, but then I really ballooned: mostly thanks to wine and desperate boredom. The dreaded "last third" of the isolation is a real phenomena, and it surely put strain on relationships as well.

Now I will try to combine boredom, anxiety and starvation for the remaining of the time until May 11th.

This is an interesting topic.

I am not gloating, just describing.

Here, we’re quite content and actually having less tantrums (adults and kids) than is the norm. Kids spend normal school hours in the kitchen, at the table, working. They’re all four on the same timetables as they would normally be. No video chat, but can live message teachers as required. Work set on Google classroom. Polly has settled into the role of TA. I have done an enormous amount of work around the house and garden, as well as business stuff etc.

But, both Polly and I are Merchant (and RN) Navy, from Navy families. We both just feel like we’re at sea and settle into the little space we have and tweak it to make it better. I ripped the banisters off the stairs yesterday, to make the hallway feel bigger. Now the kids are all teens, it’s like six adults in the house and when we do take a walk (once a week) everyone trying to get coats and through the front door together is frickin evil and that’s before you add in the three excited dogs...

Anyway, my question, are we naturally inclined to this state? Is it that we’re from families that have several generations of maritime life? Just programmed to be cooped up?
Or is it learned? I can’t think of any great mind tricks or coping techniques that I’m aware of using.

So, who else is ok? Why do you think you’re ok?

If you’re not, why not? What grips your shit the most?


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#43 Re: Lockdown training fails
May 04, 2020, 01:06:53 pm
Here, we’re quite content and actually having less tantrums (adults and kids) than is the norm.

I ripped the banisters off the stairs yesterday

 :-\  ;)


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#44 Re: Lockdown training fails
May 04, 2020, 01:19:37 pm
I was totally fine until the end was in sight. Apparently this is very common, and well described in the literature.

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#45 Re: Lockdown training fails
May 04, 2020, 01:23:21 pm
Here, we’re quite content and actually having less tantrums (adults and kids) than is the norm.

I ripped the banisters off the stairs yesterday

 :-\  ;)

Yes, it does sound like an Incredible Hulk moment...

I used my impact driver and unscrewed it neatly and patched the carpet to hide the scars.

I shall be making a box seat with the timber. 😇

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#46 Re: Lockdown training fails
May 04, 2020, 01:50:31 pm
I was totally fine until the end was in sight. Apparently this is very common, and well described in the literature.

With the end in sight, I've found it a bit easier...thinking that I only have a few more low motivation sessions to go!

Andy W

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#47 Re: Lockdown training fails
May 11, 2020, 11:24:57 am
DE confinement in France. I'm half a kilo heavier, same fitness more or less, bottle of wine a day alcoholic (edit, maybe not quite that much)...and it's raining and looks like it will all week... back to the board  ;D
« Last Edit: May 11, 2020, 11:36:18 am by Andy W »

Ged

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#48 Re: Lockdown training fails
May 11, 2020, 11:51:27 am
Stuck at home and not allowed to go climbing? No worries, I'll turn into Devon's answer to Kilian Jornet and win every race in the autumn.  Who would've thought a massive increase in training load would cause injury in someone in their late 30's? Achilles tendonitis and calf strain.  Balls. 

Am I alone in feeling slightly daunted by the end of lockdown? I sympathise with Matt's feelings.  We have definitely found our routine, and are pretty happy trucking along in and around our village.  Exercise and fresh air, plenty to keep the kid entertained. 

The prospect of having to decide what to do with a day, and then sort the logistics to make it happen fills me with terror. 

Motown

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#49 Re: Lockdown training fails
May 11, 2020, 12:04:14 pm
I was totally fine until the end was in sight. Apparently this is very common, and well described in the literature.

Common and frustrating in schools/university - students quitting shortly before the end.

SA Chris

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#50 Re: Lockdown training fails
May 11, 2020, 12:12:07 pm
half a kilo heavier

Done well. I'm at least half a stone over where i like to be.

shark

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#51 Re: Lockdown training fails
May 11, 2020, 12:21:20 pm
half a kilo heavier

Done well. I'm at least half a stone over where i like to be.

Half stone heavier than start of lockdown and full stone heavier than skinny redpoint weight. It’s going to be a long grind to get back there by Sendtember

SA Chris

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#52 Re: Lockdown training fails
May 11, 2020, 12:23:35 pm
Likewise. I was a stone lighter this time last year post Marathon training.

shark

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#53 Re: Lockdown training fails
May 11, 2020, 12:26:05 pm
Hoping that go climbing again will provide sufficient drive to do the necessary

SA Chris

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#54 Re: Lockdown training fails
May 11, 2020, 12:27:05 pm
Yep, I'm back on running 5 k a day too.

 

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