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New Sheigra Bouldering Guide (Read 4659 times)

gardinrm

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New Sheigra Bouldering Guide
April 21, 2020, 09:36:12 pm
So lock-down has unexpected benefits. I've finally updated my Sheigra Bouldering guide after nearly 5 years. I've made quite a few changes to the document and uploaded all the new problems I know about. There are now over 170 problems at Sheigra and recent forays show here is ever more to climb. I've also uploaded all our new problems to ukc.

I hope you like it. Any comments would be very well received. I also hope that it might help you keep up the psyche during these depressing times. Writing it has certainly helped me!

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1woEgCCNhcGMTdZBFdYDOzMVlQoa7F7-N

SA Chris

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#1 Re: New Sheigra Bouldering Guide
April 21, 2020, 09:47:06 pm
Good Man, looks ace. What do you use to draw problem lines?

gardinrm

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#2 Re: New Sheigra Bouldering Guide
April 21, 2020, 11:05:46 pm
This time I used powerpoint. I had issues with image distortion though when I exported them as a jpeg and then turned the final document into a compressed pdf. In the end I found a good work around, but it was a learning process. The best thing about using powerpoint is I can modify them easily moving forwards and they are all in one nice file.

ianabbot

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#3 Re: New Sheigra Bouldering Guide
April 22, 2020, 08:53:56 am
Thanks Robbie, this looks brilliant. Every time you post new videos I make a mental note to get up there some time – no excuses now there’s such a comprehensive guide!

SA Chris

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#4 Re: New Sheigra Bouldering Guide
April 22, 2020, 08:59:57 am
If you do any trad it's a great place for it too. and surfing for that matter.

andy moles

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#5 Re: New Sheigra Bouldering Guide
April 22, 2020, 09:04:18 am
Wow, great effort, thanks.

Some options for next time I'm up there watching the next squall move in on the Second Geo...

Wood FT

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#6 Re: New Sheigra Bouldering Guide
April 22, 2020, 09:12:52 am
Thank you!

sherlock

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#7 Re: New Sheigra Bouldering Guide
April 22, 2020, 09:24:17 am
Thanks Robbie,great job!

a13c

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#8 Re: New Sheigra Bouldering Guide
April 22, 2020, 10:00:07 am
That looks awesome! Thank you.
I was supposed to be up that way this week for our first holiday of the year...

duncan

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#9 Re: New Sheigra Bouldering Guide
April 30, 2020, 04:35:36 pm
Thank you. Particularly missing this wonderful part of the world right now.

Camo

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#10 Re: New Sheigra Bouldering Guide
April 30, 2020, 05:13:28 pm
Looks good, thanks for your effort putting it together you’ve done a nice job.

PlainCroi$$ant

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#11 Re: New Sheigra Bouldering Guide
August 14, 2021, 01:42:04 pm
Thanks for this Robbie. Was up there a couple of weeks back and your guide was super useful.
Some class lines!

gardinrm

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#12 Re: New Sheigra Bouldering Guide
August 15, 2021, 12:38:41 am
Thanks for this Robbie. Was up there a couple of weeks back and your guide was super useful.
Some class lines!
Great to hear! What did you get on? Heading up myself in next week. Can't wait!

PlainCroi$$ant

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#13 Re: New Sheigra Bouldering Guide
August 15, 2021, 10:31:39 am
Had a day at Promontory and Dave’s Roof. Got a few nice lines done like Kelpie, Chimera and Othrus right and left.

Then went to Land of Giants the next day, which was very cool. The sit start to Slimer was probably the highlight. Ace problem!

Enjoy getting back up there. Epic place!

kelvin

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#14 Re: New Sheigra Bouldering Guide
August 15, 2021, 01:36:26 pm
Heading up in September, what's the score with camping? Don't wanna upset the locals.
We'll be in a van and happy to pay to camp. Is anywhere particularly recommended?

PlainCroi$$ant

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#15 Re: New Sheigra Bouldering Guide
August 15, 2021, 01:38:46 pm
We just used the beach ‘campsite’ (in a van too) - no facilities but a beautiful spot and you can just turn up, plenty of space. there’s an honesty box for payment, I think it was £5 a night.

gardinrm

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#16 Re: New Sheigra Bouldering Guide
August 15, 2021, 11:26:49 pm
There is also a proper campsite with full facilities up at Durness, not too far away.

kelvin

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#17 Re: New Sheigra Bouldering Guide
August 16, 2021, 06:57:10 am
Thanks to both of you - good info.

SA Chris

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#18 Re: New Sheigra Bouldering Guide
August 16, 2021, 08:28:02 am
There is also a fairly nice campsite in Scourie. Depending on time of year, the honesty campsite at Sheigra can get pretty midgy. There is a public toilet at Oldshoremore, but limited parking.

Good work on the new guide!

   

sxrxg

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#19 Re: New Sheigra Bouldering Guide
August 16, 2021, 08:37:52 am
If in a van you can use the campervan parking at Kinlochbervie/Loch Clash. They have space for 5 vans on the harbour with electric hook ups. Also you can empty chemical waste and fill up with water for a nominal fee even if all the spots are booked and you don't want to stay there, we did this when staying on the site at Sheigra. The Spar where you pay is only 10 minutes drive away and good for stocking up on provisions at the same time, we did this every couple of days.

kelvin

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#20 Re: New Sheigra Bouldering Guide
September 11, 2021, 12:05:41 pm
Cheers everyone for all the tips, we're headed there in an hour or two. The weather looks good for the next two days, so hopefully we can make the best of it.

SA Chris

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#21 Re: New Sheigra Bouldering Guide
September 11, 2021, 06:36:53 pm
Enjoy. Take and swimmming  / surfing stuff you have, beaches are amazing. Trad is fucking great too.

SA Chris

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#22 Re: New Sheigra Bouldering Guide
November 09, 2022, 11:43:08 am
Contemplating a trip this weekend, surf forecast looks amazing and weather looks dry too. I've downloaded the brilliant topo but what Sector is best for a quick winter sun hit and techy rather than thuggy 6s for a solo quest with a couple of pads.

No doubt forecast will change, but live in hope.

andy_e

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#23 Re: New Sheigra Bouldering Guide
November 09, 2022, 12:21:37 pm
Promontory for sure, access is a little bit sketch, but there's loads of good stuff there in the 6s with generally flat landings.

SA Chris

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#24 Re: New Sheigra Bouldering Guide
November 09, 2022, 12:29:45 pm
cheers. Sketch as in sea sketch or scramble sketch?

sherlock

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#25 Re: New Sheigra Bouldering Guide
November 09, 2022, 12:40:35 pm
Perhaps The Promentary?
Blocks face all directions for available sun this time of year.
Quick drying mainly, clean non scrittly.
Easy navigation between problems
Rock platform landings, occasional rock pools but I suspect you'll be used to those.
If it's windy take a rope for the descent.
And a couple of medium wires, big slings for an anchor. A handline is useful in winds, the descent slab catches wind and carrying a couple of pads can be a bit hairy.
The platform might get splashy in a really big sea but only seen that a couple of times in winter.
Close to the parking.
Or maybe the Stone Shelves. A bit further away, landings varied, not as quick to orientate yourself.
I wouldn't go to Land of the Giants on my own. A long steep crawl if you turn an ankle.....

Edit: Andy beat me to it!

SA Chris

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#26 Re: New Sheigra Bouldering Guide
November 09, 2022, 01:07:16 pm
8ft swell forecast! Might have a look around, no sweat taking an old static rope and some bits for the descent.

sherlock

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#27 Re: New Sheigra Bouldering Guide
November 09, 2022, 01:50:18 pm
It'll be easy to assess the state of the platform and the swell from the top
I'd come out for the day but got commitments this w/e.

SA Chris

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#28 Re: New Sheigra Bouldering Guide
November 09, 2022, 02:16:50 pm
Yeah, figured as much. It's not cast in stone yet, missus is hobbling with sore foot from too much running. If it doesn't get better I am at home helping with child wrangling.

gardinrm

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#29 Re: New Sheigra Bouldering Guide
November 13, 2022, 04:05:42 pm
Did you get out Chris? Didn't notice your question until now. If you want to know what the descent to the Promontory is like, at the very end of the this video there is footage of me climbing out with the dog: https://vimeo.com/manage/videos/232680933 (c. 19min)
I've never used a rope - mostly because my rope skills are so poor, it would certainly be more dangerous!I think the Promontory only gets splashy on seaward side of the most seaward blocks so there is plenty to get on.

I also think the Land of Giants is fine by yourself if you just climb carefully and pick sensible problems. It's actually the steep descent that is probably the thing to be most cautious of (esp if it has been wet). The updated guide suggests keeping right which is a little further but probably more secure.

The safest and easiest place to climb up there is actually Droman Pier (can find details and topos on UKC), but it is tidal.

sherlock

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#30 Re: New Sheigra Bouldering Guide
November 13, 2022, 04:42:09 pm
https://vimeo.com/manage/videos/232680933 (c. 19min)
I've never used a rope - mostly because my rope skills are so poor, it would certainly be more dangerous!I think the Promontory only gets splashy on seaward side of the most seaward blocks so there is plenty to get on.

I also think the Land of Giants is fine by yourself if you just climb carefully and pick sensible problems. It's actually the steep descent that is probably the thing to be most cautious of (esp if it has been wet). The updated guide suggests keeping right which is a little further but probably more secure.

The safest and easiest place to climb up there is actually Droman Pier (can find details and topos on UKC), but it is tidal.
[/quote]

Been blown over on that slab a couple of times, though I note that you are close in to the corner, we've always gone straight down the slab . Suspect you're right though!
And yeah, I sort of meant the descent to LoG was a little spooky in poor conditions. Still wouldn't fancy it on my own, the imagination runs wild down there  :lol:
Edit: And I can't figure out why the quote function on UKB is so erratic on my  phone.

SA Chris

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#31 Re: New Sheigra Bouldering Guide
November 14, 2022, 08:25:08 am
Never happened in the end life got in the way (she's still hobbling, might be stress fracture from too much running), but good knowledge, will keep an eye on forecast and try get back, been too long.

 

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