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Lockdown fingerboarding advice (Read 32382 times)

abarro81

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#175 Re: Lockdown fingerboarding advice
April 14, 2020, 01:39:54 pm
I’d be interested in how long people think their training plan was going to last?

I don't really understand the question... I have how my year looks sketched out in my head (not anymore obvs!), then write plans of anywhere from 1-6 months, but I always adjust as I go along.

Most covid plans presumably last until lockdown ends, at which point they get replaced by something else, depending on what the new rules of the game are and look likely to be. Maybe your q makes more sense to people who don't normally follow any form of plan? :shrug:

tomtom

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#176 Re: Lockdown fingerboarding advice
April 14, 2020, 01:43:32 pm
I’d be interested in how long people think their training plan was going to last?

I don't really understand the question...  Maybe your q makes more sense to people who don't normally follow any form of plan? :shrug:

Yes - thats right. I've never had a training plan (apart from try doing a bit more of this or that) - so having a period where I will not be able to climb outdoors (or at a wall) for what I anticipate to be at least 6 months gives me the chance to plan for that long.

abarro81

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#177 Re: Lockdown fingerboarding advice
April 14, 2020, 01:45:52 pm
I don't buy that we won't be climbing outside for 6 months, but maybe I'm just optimistic

Whyatt

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#178 Re: Lockdown fingerboarding advice
April 14, 2020, 01:49:06 pm
6 months.. If that's the case I'm buying a van and living at the Tor

Rob F

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#179 Re: Lockdown fingerboarding advice
April 14, 2020, 01:49:39 pm
"Haha. If only it was just the fingers that were letting me down"

Ha ha ha - it wasn't you, it was actually Nat Berry on Raindogs  :thumbsup:

Duma

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#180 Re: Lockdown fingerboarding advice
April 14, 2020, 01:53:17 pm
I don't buy that we won't be climbing outside for 6 months, but maybe I'm just optimistic
Agreed, I think there's pretty much no chance of outdoor exercise still being restricted through the summer, but walls (and pubs etc) are another thing and may well be shut till the autumn or beyond

gme

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#181 Re: Lockdown fingerboarding advice
April 14, 2020, 01:54:44 pm

That’s a different question though. This was about wether steve maish targets were realistic.

Come on, they are fucking bonkers.

Even I am full strength on the fingers test, or near it.

Why would a climber stop training fingers and get their dead lift up to >2 bw. Utter madness

Suggest your not very balanced then. Would think most of the worlds top boulderers would be able to DL 2x body-weight easily. I know that the one of the UKs strongest had never done them before and lifted well in excess of 2x BW the first session he tried. I guess this is due to them having incredible body strength and tension so it transferred easily to a DL, therefore it would stand that it goes the other way. I would put money on the same person being able to tick most of the other benchmarks as well.


Nibile

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#182 Re: Lockdown fingerboarding advice
April 14, 2020, 01:56:43 pm
Good post Lore.


For me it’s 6 months min. Could well be a year.

to try and build a base before ramping stuff up in the summer.
Cheers TomTom.
And I am very proud of you.
 :punk:

abarro81

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#183 Re: Lockdown fingerboarding advice
April 14, 2020, 01:57:51 pm
Yeah, but they'd also be miles better than the fingers benchmark too probably so not a useful comparison to the metrics. The fingers benchmark is a notch below world class so you can't start using Aidan, Varian, Bosi, Shauna etc as examples

abarro81

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#184 Re: Lockdown fingerboarding advice
April 14, 2020, 02:01:22 pm
TomTom - realised you may mean that you won't be even if others are and it's legal, in which case fair enough and make a long-term plan but don't be afraid to adjust it as you go

gme

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#185 Re: Lockdown fingerboarding advice
April 14, 2020, 02:04:04 pm
I don't buy that we won't be climbing outside for 6 months, but maybe I'm just optimistic
I hope your right but i think it could be the case. It will be classed as non essential, still a pretty minority thing and brings little if anything to the economy outside of the climbing walls and centers so think it will be one of the last things back.

jwi

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#186 Re: Lockdown fingerboarding advice
April 14, 2020, 02:05:06 pm
I spent like 3 months doing deadlifts twice a week and got to around 2 times bodyweight. Utter waste of time, will never do again.

reeve

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#187 Re: Lockdown fingerboarding advice
April 14, 2020, 02:08:02 pm
Yeah, but they'd also be miles better than the fingers benchmark too probably so not a useful comparison to the metrics. The fingers benchmark is a notch below world class so you can't start using Aidan, Varian, Bosi, Shauna etc as examples

So what's your best deadlift, bro?

gme

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#188 Re: Lockdown fingerboarding advice
April 14, 2020, 02:10:17 pm
Yeah, but they'd also be miles better than the fingers benchmark too probably so not a useful comparison to the metrics. The fingers benchmark is a notch below world class so you can't start using Aidan, Varian, Bosi, Shauna etc as examples

he does state greater than +50% of bodyweight for the hangs which suggests its open ended, but stops DLs a x2.

And are the people you mention not the elite, everyone below them is just average.

gme

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#189 Re: Lockdown fingerboarding advice
April 14, 2020, 02:23:49 pm
I spent like 3 months doing deadlifts twice a week and got to around 2 times bodyweight. Utter waste of time, will never do again.

So your dismissing the exercise for everyone, and as a good measure of strength for an elite athlete, based on your sample of one.

The person i use as an example struggles to do one arm hangs on a standard edge but can DL well over 2x BW having not done any before. Suggests to me there is a connection to being able to boulder hard as the bio-mechanics must have a crossover.

Rob F

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#190 Re: Lockdown fingerboarding advice
April 14, 2020, 02:26:16 pm
"So what's your best deadlift, bro?"

Double overhand or reverse grip???

tomtom

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#191 Re: Lockdown fingerboarding advice
April 14, 2020, 02:31:09 pm
TomTom - realised you may mean that you won't be even if others are and it's legal, in which case fair enough and make a long-term plan but don't be afraid to adjust it as you go

Oh - if we are allowed to go outside I'll go if I can :) 

BUT - I think it will be more restricted - socially - as in needing to find somewhere deserted etc.. and even if allowed the dynamic will completely change I think. Places like Rubicon where walkers mix with the climbers will be harder/places to avoid - and places with marginal access might be trickier as its a great excuse for a landowner to be grumpy/kick someone off..

Plus will probably be a shit wet summer after any restrictions are eased :D.

As others have said - walls will be shut for at least another 6 months (end of the year??) - so it'll be train train train and the odd outdoors if there is respite.

Thats the plan. I'm into my 4th consecutive week of fingerboarding... its already a record!!

abarro81

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#192 Re: Lockdown fingerboarding advice
April 14, 2020, 03:47:47 pm
And are the people you mention not the elite, everyone below them is just average.

I think we're getting our wires crossed somewhere. Yeah, they're the elite, and most of them would nuke the fingers test, so IMO they're not so useful for judging the other stuff. You need people who just about hit the fingers score and then see if they just about hit the other scores.

As ever, I imagine most of this depends on what you think rounded means, and I'm not surprised if sport climbers think that rounded means something more fingery and less body-power orientated than boulderers, which I think is what the last 3 pages has come down to! I can think of plenty of boulders where more burl and squeeze would be a big help, but when I fail on routes it's usually fingers and fitness that would be the thing that I'm lacking. Plus ability in both scenario obviously, but just thinking physical things.

Re: timings of climbing. Once people can move around again I think people will go climbing. If any offices, cafes, tourism things, restaurants, hotels etc are open with social distancing restrictions in place I think people will go climbing, if only because it will get hard to convince people that that stuff is ok but walking in the peak isn't, and as soon as you can drive around doing that stuff people will drive around climbing.

gme

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#193 Re: Lockdown fingerboarding advice
April 14, 2020, 04:29:13 pm
Your right i am talking about real climbers.

abarro81

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#194 Re: Lockdown fingerboarding advice
April 14, 2020, 05:00:56 pm
I have no idea what that's supposed to mean. To your anecdotes of people who could hit those numbers, there are jwi's of climbers who couldn't etc. I tried to write a response explaining where the differences in perception might come from, but since you can't be arsed to read it, I'll just punter you instead.

I get it now, you mean you're talking about boulderers. Sorry, I puntered you cos I thought you were being too lazy to read/respond properly
« Last Edit: April 14, 2020, 05:08:28 pm by abarro81 »

Bradders

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#195 Re: Lockdown fingerboarding advice
April 14, 2020, 05:01:53 pm
Good post Lore.

I’d be interested in how long people think their training plan was going to last? (You mentioned 2 months).

For me it’s 6 months min. Could well be a year. That’s what I’m planning... hence a gentle start focusing on form - to try and build a base before ramping stuff up in the summer.

Last couple of years I've operated on a hybrid of the Dave MacLeod and Steve Bechtel "Logical Progression" approaches.

I.e. Dave Mac - if you can climb outside, go climb outside

Logical Progression - when training essentially cycle between strength, power, strength endurance and pure endurance (I skip the last bit cos I'm a boulderer). I cycle between the three things but with a high level focus which usually lasts about 3 months; last 3 were power for example.

This gives me periods e.g. February where the weather is toss and I train, followed by periods e.g. March where it's better and I just get out and mix in training when other priorities prevent going outside.

This therefore hasn't meant much change for me; it's just like there has been an extended period of shit weather. The plan lasts as long as the weather lasts and I change the focus every quarter.

The only way I've deviated from that is when I have a trip coming up, at which point I'll tend to focus on power before tapering down just before going.

gme

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#196 Re: Lockdown fingerboarding advice
April 14, 2020, 05:11:39 pm
It was a joke about endurance prioritising sports climbers Alex being not real. I didn’t think we were all so stir crazy as to need joking emojis already.
I got your response and totally agree. As always I am talking about my version of a strong climber and the people I had in mind were not the route specialists. If your wanting to do a 50 m long stamina plod it may not be as important.

Anyway my comments were only about the fact I don’t think Steve’s Benchmarks were that hard to achieve where others suggested they were crazy and I still stand by that. The jury is obviously out on whether people think they are worth trying to achieve but I personally think they are.
Feel free to punter  me anyway I really don’t give a shit.

gme

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#197 Re: Lockdown fingerboarding advice
April 14, 2020, 05:12:19 pm
You beat me to it.

abarro81

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#198 Re: Lockdown fingerboarding advice
April 14, 2020, 05:55:28 pm
I didn’t think we were all so stir crazy as to need joking emojis already.

I don't know, my head's pretty fucked up right now. Reckon I've done 3hrs of productive work in an 8 hr day, and 1 of them was listening to a webinar.

tomtom

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#199 Re: Lockdown fingerboarding advice
April 14, 2020, 05:57:49 pm
If you actually listened to the webinar instead of composing UKB replies then that’s a success!

 

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