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The Lockdown Project (Read 7069 times)

abarro81

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#50 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 26, 2020, 04:34:56 pm
Also, B&Q only doing "essentials" e.g. plumbing, some building stuff, electrical.. Don't know whether you'll get ply or not.

Will Hunt

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#51 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 26, 2020, 04:49:09 pm
Lots of retailers are still operational because they trade online, or are exempt, and they can travel to work because it cannot be done from home. Personally, I don't think the lockdown has gone far enough, but what do I know? Hopefully someone in government has sat down with a pencil and worked out how far we can go now without causing more deaths by putting us in a situation of mass poverty. So if it's still open then why not give them some business, I guess?
It'll be tricky because delivery times will be ages. Even if you get the wood, it'll be a PITA getting fixings and things by mail. Whenever I do DIY I invariably end up making repeated small trips to B&Q as I forget something or get the wrong size etc.

sdm

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#52 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 26, 2020, 05:12:16 pm
You're stimulating the economy at least.

AFAIK hardware stores are still going, just not sure if any of the hold makers will still be contactable?

Things may obviously change rapidly but at the moment, I understand Beastmaker, Hardwood Holds and Silly Goat are all still operational and shipping.

No idea on other manufacturers.

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#53 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 26, 2020, 05:15:47 pm
Got a tree in the communal back yard that will take some rings or TRX etc... but everywhere seems to be sold out. I have however seen quite cheap a trapeze swing and rope ladder set. I figured this could make quite a good wobbly pull up bar and - campus up the rope ladder set up. Does this sound stupid/desperate? (My home setup at the moment is just a BM1k and a theraband assist system(tm).

A bit of strap with a cam lock buckle and some PVC.  I think you can order PVC to be delivered as well.  I prefer 3cm pvc. 

ianabbot

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#54 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 26, 2020, 06:13:32 pm
I ordered ply, timber and screws before lockdown. Ply etc. was due for delivery yesterday, but the timber yard in Inverness then closed on TuesdayÖ Screwfix delivery arrived though, so I now have 600 screws, and all I need is some ply. If Alanis Morissette was a boulderer, she could write a song about that.

HarryBD

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#55 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 26, 2020, 09:47:03 pm
Thanks guys, Iím still undecided. I donít want to take the mick. L not completely on board with the idea yet and donít want to piss her off while weíre locked up together. Iíve probably got enough to work on with my pull-up bar and fingerboard (plus the kitchen - 15kg heavier than when I raced bikes at uni)

That made me laugh Ian.

gme

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#56 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 26, 2020, 10:57:09 pm
A lot of builders merchants still doing click and collect if you have a van or roof rack.
If this looks like going on for more than a few weeks, which it does, I will be building my first board in years.

MischaHY

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#57 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 27, 2020, 08:54:31 am
On Abarroís point about rotation in one arm hangs- has anybody managed to stop this happening through any specific training? Itís really quite annoying!

Yeah, for me it resolved mostly after doing more one arm/offset work on a bar. Once the shoulders got more stable the rotation stopped.

A good way to build into it (aside from the pull up training) is to engage the hang, then use a single finger on the other hand to push yourself back into position. i.e. you hang on one arm and start to rotate. Gently tap the doorframe or whatever with the other hand to counter the motion. This bumps you back into starting position for a second, then you start to rotate again. Push, pause, push. It's good because it keeps the high load on the shoulder and provides the absolute minimum of assistance. You'll progressively need to tap less and less and eventually you won't be rotating anymore. The key is to push briefly but hard enough that you rotate back and don't stay in contact with the thing you're pushing against.

Hope this helps!


tomtom

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#58 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 27, 2020, 09:26:44 am
Thanks Mischa
Just started training one arm hangs - and at the moment trying them with weight assistance a bit more than I need - in order to get my form and the anti rotate working better. Then reduce the weight assistance etc.

Well. Thatís the plan!

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#59 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 27, 2020, 10:07:21 am
Pre-Corona I did a Lattice assessment which concluded like this:

Marker                        Your Score                    Expected Score (Goal Grade)                      Training Priority

Finger Strength        207.8%bw                                 161.9%bw                                                      Low

Power Endurance        207.0 secs                                 140 secs (avg.)                                              Low

Work Capacity                258.1 bw secs                         167.8 bw secs                                              Low

Pull Ups                        23                                          20                                                              Low

Push:Pull Ratio        0.9:1                                          2:1                                                              High

Flexibility + Mobility                                                                                                                    Medium

Core + Stability                                                                                                                    Very High


With this in mind I'm using the time to get a big block of focused strength and conditioning work done (something I've been stupidly lazy with previously) with the hope of addressing the weak links of core and push strength and hopefully doing some hardish things later in the year in Frankenjura when Germany calms down a bit.

This is my core session - it's quite high volume because I've got time for a longer session and I also seem to respond far better to higher volume sessions that start with more intense exercises and then taper the intensity down steadily as the session progresses.

Core

Leg raises. 10 reps, 3 sets. 2 minutes rest between sets.
Hanging L-sits. 5 12 second reps with 30 seconds rest between reps.
Twisting Crunch. 30 reps, 3 sets. 1 minute rest between sets.
Weighted Crunch. 30 reps, 3 sets. 1 minute rest between sets.
Dish Tuck. 30 reps, 3 sets. 1 minute rest between sets.
Front Swim. 30 reps, 3 sets 1 minute rest between sets.
Isometric Front Hold. 5 30 second reps, 1 minute rest between sets.
Knee Stand. 30 reps. 3 sets. 1 minute rest between sets.
If any exercise becomes too easy, add weight to the ankles or hands to increase
intensity.


I'm currently adding 3KG to the leg raises and L-Sits which is a good level of hard. I've always been pretty crap at steeper things so hopefully this will sort it out.

Also have a push strength session that looks like this:

Push

ē 5x10 point Press Ups. Count to 10 at each point of the press up. Once you reach the
10th, make 15 small presses. Rest 1 minute between reps.
ē Rings Dips. 15 reps x 3 sets. Rest 2 minutes between sets.
ē 3x10 Diamond Press Ups. Rest 1 minute between sets.


This one is lower volume than the core session because it absolutely batters me. By the end I'm knackered and then sore for two days after. Weakness! Seeing good progression so far though. The 10-point press is still a way off from completing the full volume which seems good as there's plenty of room for progression.

Also built a sort of horizontal board thing from campus rungs on the beams outside - with feet on smearing on the wood it's actually very much like real roof climbing. I'm adding some crimps and footholds from hardwood holds to make it a bit more diverse so hopefully will get some good sessions in on this.

https://www.instagram.com/p/B-AKv16qSSO/

The only other thing I wanted to do was work out a way to train kneebars more specifically as it's something I'm extra crap at, so still thinking about that one. Any thoughts? Haven't got room for building any crazy machines unfortunately. Was thinking about tipping the kitchen table against the door then standing on the edge with my feet and knee(s) behind the pull up bar. Will have to have a play about...

GazM

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#60 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 27, 2020, 10:30:50 am
Had a brief session on the project last night after the family went to bed. Cant do the start or finish but can do the middle...

jwi

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#61 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 27, 2020, 01:09:07 pm
Variation of load is not just a good idea, it is the law. Every training plan needs variation, unless the plan is to get up on a plateau and stay there forever.

If that plateau is 8B+ then that sounds pretty good to me.

Why? 9A has been done by climbers who kept on improving instead.

Pricey

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#62 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 27, 2020, 01:13:19 pm
On Abarroís point about rotation in one arm hangs- has anybody managed to stop this happening through any specific training? Itís really quite annoying!

Yeah, for me it resolved mostly after doing more one arm/offset work on a bar. Once the shoulders got more stable the rotation stopped.

A good way to build into it (aside from the pull up training) is to engage the hang, then use a single finger on the other hand to push yourself back into position. i.e. you hang on one arm and start to rotate. Gently tap the doorframe or whatever with the other hand to counter the motion. This bumps you back into starting position for a second, then you start to rotate again. Push, pause, push. It's good because it keeps the high load on the shoulder and provides the absolute minimum of assistance. You'll progressively need to tap less and less and eventually you won't be rotating anymore. The key is to push briefly but hard enough that you rotate back and don't stay in contact with the thing you're pushing against.

Hope this helps!

Thanks, I often rest a finger on the doorframe but Iíll try the push off, sounds good!

lagerstarfish

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#63 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 29, 2020, 09:10:45 pm
easy punter laps


nai

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#64 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 29, 2020, 09:16:46 pm
#climbfastest

Duma

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#65 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 29, 2020, 09:40:44 pm
Loving the clogs

lagerstarfish

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#66 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 29, 2020, 10:38:16 pm
Loving the clogs
Rigid cycling shoes and a 4cm rail to stand on is the only way I can keep active without making arthritic joints worse sometimes

Edit - you meant the real clogs! Good holds when bolted on
« Last Edit: March 29, 2020, 10:43:23 pm by lagerstarfish »

mark

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#67 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 29, 2020, 11:02:01 pm
easy punter laps



What on Earth would someone who didn't know much about climbing make of that? The clogs are excellent.

Dolly

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#68 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 29, 2020, 11:48:57 pm
Itís utterly brilliant
You also know that when we go outside again heíll have been practising something to hassle you to screams of desperation 😀

lagerstarfish

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#69 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 30, 2020, 05:43:26 am
Itís utterly brilliant
You also know that when we go outside again heíll have been practising something to hassle you to screams of desperation 😀

Get ready for some Leeroy Thornhill style eliminates

tomtom

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#70 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 30, 2020, 08:11:31 am
Itís utterly brilliant
You also know that when we go outside again heíll have been practising something to hassle you to screams of desperation 😀

Those were towards the end. Those big moves up from the low/sit start... thatís got hustle written all over it.

Itís a bit like a serial killer sending the detective letters with obscure clues - we have to deduce the problem and the hustle from the sped up training video...

lagerstarfish

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#71 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 30, 2020, 09:36:26 am
They've taken the bait...

lagerstarfish

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#72 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 31, 2020, 10:46:32 pm
Next instalment of The Lager Diaries

tried to give the clogs more prominence

thin skin due to three days on the board, so I resorted to chalking up near the end of the session

just doing what feels good, no real plan, no secret code hidden in the shapes, nothing to hear in the soundtrack


SA Chris

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#73 Re: The Lockdown Project
April 01, 2020, 09:24:31 am
I've got some turned wooden feet off an old sofa that will be first to go on my home woody.

sdm

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#74 Re: The Lockdown Project
April 01, 2020, 10:32:10 am
In addition to the hundreds of pounds of beautifully sculpted wooden holds from Beastmaker, Hardwood Holds and Silly Goat, and some Bleaustone resin holds, some of my favourite homemade holds on my board include:
- A bannister rail converted in to a tactile sloper, with an undercut on the other side
- 2 draw sliders turned in to heinous crimp rails
- Jenga Extreme blocks turned in to nice basic crimps
- A stick from the park that became a beautiful narrow pinch
- a 4mm slightly rounded wooden business card. When I am strong enough to do a move off that hold, I will have completed climbing

When you've got a sander, no spare piece of wood is safe from ending up on the board.

 

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