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The Lockdown Project (Read 7080 times)

nai

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#25 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 25, 2020, 12:58:08 pm
When you say a peg stuffed in the back is this a bit of wood cut to size on cord? Might be a good solution for me too seeing as 20mm edges do not seem to be a thing...

AAA battery makes it about 20mm

abarro81

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#26 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 25, 2020, 01:08:41 pm
So what does a standard set of 3 grips look like for you? 3 finger drag bottom outside, 4 finger half crimp bottom outside, A.N. Other?

My standard session is currently :
- 4 finger 1/2 crimp
- mid 2 drag
- front 2 drag
- front 3 drag
- pinch balls
(then sometimes BFR at the end too)

If I were only doing 3 I guess I'd do 1/2 crimp, mid 2 and front 3 as they seem the most relevant

Bradders

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#27 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 25, 2020, 01:45:47 pm

- 10s one arm hang the big middle slot (my arms are piss weak)


I just had to get up and go and look at my fingerboard to confirm the existence of this slot as I couldn't imagine its existence. It is profoundly unchalked compared to all the others  :lol:

That's cos you're well strong init, you big 8c monster :lol:


When you say a peg stuffed in the back is this a bit of wood cut to size on cord? Might be a good solution for me too seeing as 20mm edges do not seem to be a thing...

Just a plastic clothes peg... found them easier to get out after than a battery. Measured them at 19mm but size doesn't really matter, more consistency (so I'm told ;))

spidermonkey09

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#28 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 25, 2020, 01:55:07 pm
No idea why there is chalk on most of the holds to be honest as I've never used most of them in anger...


Just a plastic clothes peg... found them easier to get out after than a battery. Measured them at 19mm but size doesn't really matter, more consistency (so I'm told ;))

Great, that and the battery are good tips; cheers!

SA Chris

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#29 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 25, 2020, 02:35:30 pm
Balance a broom on my finger while on the balance board. If i get that down, dribble a basketball doing the same. Kids more impressed by me doing this than repeaters. A career in the circus (or more likely as a busker in present climate) awaits.

Pricey

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#30 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 25, 2020, 02:42:55 pm
Anything you want to achieve while we're having this enforced break from normality? 1-5-9? Learn how to crochet? Potty train the toddler?

I'm lucky enough to have a board at home so decided to set a project today that I'll try to do over the coming weeks at home. Heres the first gripping video installment. Suffice to say, it's still a project. I'll try to keep posting up as (if) I make progress.


Good thread, thanks. Super jealous of your board...what I wouldn't give! Hindsight is a terrible thing sometimes.

Number one goal for me is to keep eating healthily and avoid a descent into video games, pizza and beer.

All I have at home is a Beastmaker 2000 and a pull up bar, plus a few peripheral items including a mono trainer and pulley, so gainz will revolve around those. Haven't done any hang boarding for about 6 months bar the odd brief "check-in" type session so interesting to see where I'm at.

- 20s +25kg half crimp hang on the small edges (+16kg feels fairly maximal atm, never done any more than 10s hangs before)
- 10s +40kg hang on a 19mm edge (just the larger slot with a peg stuffed in the back - would equal my PB from last Autumn)
- 10s +25kg middle finger mono pick up (+15kg feels okay atm, easing into it slowly)
- 10s one arm hang the big middle slot (my arms are piss weak)
- 10s one arm lock off on the pull up bar (see above)

Hi Nick, whatís the rationale for the longer hangs? Just mixing things up or is it a specific protocol? I have a vague memory of salt beef raving about these a while ago...

On Abarroís point about rotation in one arm hangs- has anybody managed to stop this happening through any specific training? Itís really quite annoying! 

Coops_13

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#31 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 25, 2020, 02:49:27 pm
All dependent on receiving delivery of pull-up bar and beastmaker (as well as my ability to install):
Update: Beastmaker being delivered Friday! Very impressed with the speed

Attempted to put up the plywood backboard last night but cord wasn't long enough for drill - extension lead arriving Friday as well  :slap:

shark

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#32 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 25, 2020, 03:56:54 pm
Hi Nick, whatís the rationale for the longer hangs? Just mixing things up or is it a specific protocol? I have a vague memory of salt beef raving about these a while ago...

Some interesting stuff on 30-45 duration (density) hangs here:

https://www.trainingbeta.com/the-simplest-finger-training-program/

Primary benefits seem to be hypertrophy and improving tendon density to improve capacity for higher loads. Iím assuming there are endurance benefits too but that doesnít seem to be explicitly mentioned.

Bradders

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#33 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 25, 2020, 04:36:32 pm
Hi Nick, whatís the rationale for the longer hangs? Just mixing things up or is it a specific protocol?

Couple of reasons:
- never done it before, nice to mix things up. Always religiously stuck to 10s before.
- got to the point where I was maxing out both a) the amount of weight I had, and b) how comfortably I could suspend it from myself; adding 40kg doesn't feel great for shoulders so want to limit how much I do it, plus want fingers to be the limiting factor which feels more likely with a longer duration hang.
- as Shark posted, interesting views from Tyler Nelson on "density hangs".
- on the smaller edge one of my fingers is slightly tweaky on a really high load, short duration hang, but doesn't feel as bad doing longer hangs.
- given not climbing atm feel like intuitively need to try to compensate for lost time under tension (might be nonsense)

I have a vague memory of salt beef raving about these a while ago...

Then again, back to the drawing board now you've said that ;)

jwi

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#34 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 25, 2020, 05:46:58 pm
Variation of load is not just a good idea, it is the law. Every training plan needs variation, unless the plan is to get up on a plateau and stay there forever.

40 s hang could be as good variation as any. At least they are not much more unrealistic than a 7:3 s work ratio.

Will Hunt

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#35 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 25, 2020, 05:59:54 pm
Variation of load is not just a good idea, it is the law. Every training plan needs variation, unless the plan is to get up on a plateau and stay there forever.

If that plateau is 8B+ then that sounds pretty good to me.

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#36 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 25, 2020, 06:30:52 pm
Variation of load is not just a good idea, it is the law. Every training plan needs variation, unless the plan is to get up on a plateau and stay there forever.

If that plateau is 8B+ then that sounds pretty good to me.

Until you were actually stuck there and just wanted to do all the 8cs that is. The grass is always greener...

Rob F

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#37 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 25, 2020, 06:52:09 pm
Word on the grapevine is that Shark zooming in on 25 one armers including a 1 arm throw to the horn for the next few weeks...

Btw get well soon :-) :-) :-)

Pricey

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#38 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 26, 2020, 07:57:00 am
Thanks both.

tomtom

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#39 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 26, 2020, 01:23:48 pm
Got a tree in the communal back yard that will take some rings or TRX etc... but everywhere seems to be sold out. I have however seen quite cheap a trapeze swing and rope ladder set. I figured this could make quite a good wobbly pull up bar and - campus up the rope ladder set up. Does this sound stupid/desperate? (My home setup at the moment is just a BM1k and a theraband assist system(tm).

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nai

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#41 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 26, 2020, 02:12:03 pm
How about buy some ratchet straps, as supplied with rings, and fashion a handle out of something, piece of old climbing rope/cord threaded through a piece hose pipe or something like?

Bradders

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#42 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 26, 2020, 02:31:28 pm
Or just use a bit of old climbing rope as a makeshift TRX?

tomtom

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#43 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 26, 2020, 02:47:59 pm
Or just use a bit of old climbing rope as a makeshift TRX?

Not got any.. handles are a problem too.

SA Chris

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#44 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 26, 2020, 02:55:33 pm
Was about to say, lol at TT owning a rope.

We've just set up a multigym in the garden using a length of old static, a couple of slings, a karabiner and pulley and a stack of bricks. Works surprisingly well.

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#45 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 26, 2020, 03:13:24 pm
Was about to say, lol at TT owning a rope.

But how do you work / clean highball boul........oh. Nevermind.

tomtom

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#46 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 26, 2020, 03:19:44 pm
:D

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#47 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 26, 2020, 03:45:17 pm
Am I a cock if I order the parts for a woody? Obviously non-essential but I'm not sure it adds any risk of virus to anyone along the line?

SA Chris

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#48 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 26, 2020, 04:23:01 pm
You're stimulating the economy at least.

AFAIK hardware stores are still going, just not sure if any of the hold makers will still be contactable?

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#49 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 26, 2020, 04:27:27 pm
Am I a cock if I order the parts for a woody? Obviously non-essential but I'm not sure it adds any risk of virus to anyone along the line?

Just be aware that the delivery times from most builders merchants seem to be really long at the moment. I ordered a bunch of wood before the lock down and it is only due to be delivered at the end of next week. Might be a wait.

 

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