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The Lockdown Project (Read 7020 times)

GazM

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The Lockdown Project
March 24, 2020, 04:55:33 pm
Anything you want to achieve while we're having this enforced break from normality? 1-5-9? Learn how to crochet? Potty train the toddler?

I'm lucky enough to have a board at home so decided to set a project today that I'll try to do over the coming weeks at home. Heres the first gripping video installment. Suffice to say, it's still a project. I'll try to keep posting up as (if) I make progress.

Duma

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#1 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 24, 2020, 05:29:59 pm
I like the idea of this

A front lever
A one armer (without sacrificing elbows)
Make an inroad for into the pile of books by the bed

Coops_13

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#2 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 24, 2020, 05:42:23 pm
All dependent on receiving delivery of pull-up bar and beastmaker (as well as my ability to install):

1. one-arm pull-up (haven't tried since injury)
2. BW hang on the small BM 2K edges (14mm I think)
3. 6min 100 pull-up challenge (think I did 6:30 back in the day no idea what is good)
4. Front lever (will require the most work)

If too easy, will add more. Also need to not re-injure...

Mugabe251

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#3 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 24, 2020, 10:38:15 pm
A Beastmaker 1000 and a pile of weights is all I've got. Henceforth I'm going for:

1) Pull-up at at 150% bodyweight.
2) Front lever. Can only hold one with a leg tucked so that'll keep me occupied.for ages surely.
3) Half crimp the outer bottom slots (18mm?) with an added 30+kg. Started on 24, so this should be alright.

Utterly boring, mind-numbing stuff really. There's little I wouldn't do for a home 40 degree board right now with a few insurmountable projects on minging holds.

Nibile

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#4 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 25, 2020, 09:07:34 am
Following holds and moves?

shark

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#5 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 25, 2020, 09:34:50 am
Some good insights on how to view and approach current circumstances by Steve Bechtel from 9.13

https://www.facebook.com/climbstrong/videos/233504881171865/

spidermonkey09

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#6 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 25, 2020, 09:44:53 am
I'd give my left nut for a board. If I'd had a bit more foresight I should have started building one in the yard weeks ago. Oh well...

- bodyweight one arm hangs on the middle Beastmaker slot, but not sure how realistic this is given I am at 5kg assist currently.
- weighted repeaters on 2K bottom outside. 10kg so far, would like to think I can push this to 15kg or so.
- work out how to use the micros properly; add weight?
- consistent one armer
- fuck it, might as well stick front lever on here too.

abarro81

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#7 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 25, 2020, 09:53:50 am
In order of importance:
1. Use this opportunity to rehab my dodgy PIP joint. Have made progress on this recently, though the lockdown puts an end to physio sessions.

2. Increase my Anderson hangs PB for my 1/2 crimp (BM2k small edges on home setup) from 15-20-25kg to 20-25-30kg. I suspect this is optimistic, and can assure you that status updates will make your video updates look as gripping as Game of Thrones

3. Bodyweight hang lattice edge 5s on strong/uninjured arm with no pulley, and +1-2kg with 1kg on a pulley (I find having the pulley to stop rotation makes a big difference)

4. Stop comfort eating large amounts of cheese and chocolate (not in combination, I should add) every day.

TobyD

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#8 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 25, 2020, 10:11:39 am
I have a pair of rock rings, a pull up bar, a road bike, and a yoga mat. If the lockdown becomes extreme- which I think is quite likely if selfish assholes keep pushing it - I have a basic turbo trainer.

1) stay healthy
2) 1 arm lock off on bar
3) do 10 pull ups...
4) maximise the brief quality time outside
5) try to stay away from comfort drinking in solitary lockdown. Fortunately my local supermarket had sold out of all the wine that wasn't either too cheap to be worth it or too expensive to consider!

TobyD

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#9 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 25, 2020, 10:12:51 am
Alex, what pip rehab are you doing?

abarro81

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#10 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 25, 2020, 10:26:29 am
Well mostly not pissing it off! Also:
- Trying to regain full range of motion (i.e. being able to close it to a tight fist properly like on the other hand)
- Doing some light "no hang" mono work on it and gradually increasing the weight on that
- Regular icing too

I had 3 sessions of shockwave therapy with James @ sheffield climbing clinic, which seemed to be helping slightly, but that's off the cards until lockdown ends

jwi

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#11 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 25, 2020, 11:17:24 am

2. Increase my Anderson hangs

What are those? N x 6 x (10s hang); r=5s, R=3min?

nai

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#12 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 25, 2020, 11:23:42 am
Goals:

1. Stay uninjured

2. improve absolute finger strength. Aim for BW deadhang first joint edge but likely to depend on how long the lockdown is

3. improve shoulder strength. I can currently hold a hang with shoulder engaged and reverse out of it. Improve that so I can:

a. inititate scap pullup from hanging straight arm, shoulder completely disengaged
b. Carry that on into a one armer

4. work on core weakness that makes toeing down into a foothold when stretched on a roof really hard (e.g keeping RF on when removing the kneebar on Bens). 

Not sure what makes this so hard for me, hamstring or lower back maybe?

5. Try to increase my Reach

tomtom's thread highlighted that I have the same reach as someone shorter than me with less span so I'm hoping working on shoulder and back mobility will help me increase that.

Good luck everyone, remember we're after progress, not perfection.

HarryBD

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#13 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 25, 2020, 11:37:49 am
1. Pullup count up to 20

2. Front lever progression to 1 leg extended 5s each side (currently able to move into both knees fully tucked and hold for about 2s)

3. 50 pressups

4. Improve my woeful pancake split

5. +8kg two arm hang on my fingerboard edges 10s

nick63

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#14 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 25, 2020, 11:39:46 am
This is a great idea. Don't post on UKB much if at all but here goes

Lockdown goals

1. BW pull up x 2

2. Front lever. This will be very hard. I try but the closest I get is looking like I'm sitting in an arm chair.

3. One arm hang on middle BM 2000 with 8kg of assistance. Should be possible on left but a long shot on the right

4. Stronger shoulders. One arm shoulder shrugs x 3 R+L

5. I'm lucky enough to have home board so several long term projects mainly on Hardwood holds

Won't have as much time as some as I work as a physio for NHS but no excuses. Stay safe and healthy

abarro81

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#15 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 25, 2020, 11:41:06 am

2. Increase my Anderson hangs

What are those? N x 6 x (10s hang); r=5s, R=3min?

7 -on 3-off repeaters (i.e. like "normal"). You do 7 hangs at a certain weight (let's call it W) (i.e. 1min 7s worth of hanging and resting), then rest 3 min, then 6 hangs @ W+5kg, then rest 3 min, then 5 hangs @W+10kg.

I then rest 5 min and move on to another grip where I do the same (I think in the original protocol, which is from the Anderson brothers book, they rest 3 min also between grips but I like a longer rest where I do some shoulder press or push ups). I do anywhere from 3-6 grip types in the session depending on how much volume I want. If you complete all hangs on a grip type then you make that grip type harder in the next session...

I really like them and think I get good gains from them

36chambers

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#16 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 25, 2020, 11:43:20 am
- Doing some light "no hang" mono work on it and gradually increasing the weight on that

I've been playing around with these recently. What finger position are you using?

So far, I've been using a strict right angle chisel (apart from my pinkies) and can't decide if it's too risky doing this and whether I should just stick to a more open handed position. I suppose the latter is more application to monoing when climbing, but I'm just using this as a novel exercise for general finger strength.

abarro81

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#17 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 25, 2020, 11:58:34 am
I'm dragging, like I would with a normal mono. Feels like it stretches the finger out nicely, but I'm not trying hard - "familiar discomfort" at most. I think monkeyboy has been trying it with fingercurls, but that sounds dangerous to a man with fingers as tweaky as mine!

spidermonkey09

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#18 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 25, 2020, 12:18:14 pm

7 -on 3-off repeaters (i.e. like "normal"). You do 7 hangs at a certain weight (let's call it W) (i.e. 1min 7s worth of hanging and resting), then rest 3 min, then 6 hangs @ W+5kg, then rest 3 min, then 5 hangs @W+10kg.

I then rest 5 min and move on to another grip where I do the same (I think in the original protocol, which is from the Anderson brothers book, they rest 3 min also between grips but I like a longer rest where I do some shoulder press or push ups). I do anywhere from 3-6 grip types in the session depending on how much volume I want. If you complete all hangs on a grip type then you make that grip type harder in the next session...

I really like them and think I get good gains from them

Interesting. My main issue with repeaters like that is 3 secs doesn't feel long enough to chalk up and if I don't the edge gets greasy. This reached a nadir last night when I greased out of the 2K bottom outside unexpectedly and clattered into the ground. Suffice to say some swearing was heard.

I've also moved away from repeaters on pockets/ two 3 finger edges in favour of 4 finger edges as I found them quite tweaky. This does mean 95% of my fingerboard is redundant but maybe i should diversify again... 

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#19 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 25, 2020, 12:24:45 pm
Yeah, you can't chalk up. I don't find it a real issue at these kind of temps though...

Conversely to you, I find 3 finger drag the safest option of all - it's monos, B2 and crimps that tweak me, and certain edges are tweaky 1/2-crimp on my rh, but not really the BM 2k edges as my 1/2-crimp can be a little more open and less aggressive

Bradders

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#20 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 25, 2020, 12:27:00 pm
Anything you want to achieve while we're having this enforced break from normality? 1-5-9? Learn how to crochet? Potty train the toddler?

I'm lucky enough to have a board at home so decided to set a project today that I'll try to do over the coming weeks at home. Heres the first gripping video installment. Suffice to say, it's still a project. I'll try to keep posting up as (if) I make progress.


Good thread, thanks. Super jealous of your board...what I wouldn't give! Hindsight is a terrible thing sometimes.

Number one goal for me is to keep eating healthily and avoid a descent into video games, pizza and beer.

All I have at home is a Beastmaker 2000 and a pull up bar, plus a few peripheral items including a mono trainer and pulley, so gainz will revolve around those. Haven't done any hang boarding for about 6 months bar the odd brief "check-in" type session so interesting to see where I'm at.

- 20s +25kg half crimp hang on the small edges (+16kg feels fairly maximal atm, never done any more than 10s hangs before)
- 10s +40kg hang on a 19mm edge (just the larger slot with a peg stuffed in the back - would equal my PB from last Autumn)
- 10s +25kg middle finger mono pick up (+15kg feels okay atm, easing into it slowly)
- 10s one arm hang the big middle slot (my arms are piss weak)
- 10s one arm lock off on the pull up bar (see above)
« Last Edit: March 25, 2020, 12:35:02 pm by Bradders »

nai

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#21 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 25, 2020, 12:28:22 pm
I've been doing mono pickups as well, using right angles for IMR, drag for pinky.
Not training this strictly for monos though, more thinking I'll increase each fingers individual strength to make them stronger collectively.

Been doing repeater style sets rather than maximal hangs.  Not pushing it, having two rest days between sessions

spidermonkey09

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#22 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 25, 2020, 12:36:41 pm

- 10s one arm hang the big middle slot (my arms are piss weak)


I just had to get up and go and look at my fingerboard to confirm the existence of this slot as I couldn't imagine its existence. It is profoundly unchalked compared to all the others  :lol:

When you say a peg stuffed in the back is this a bit of wood cut to size on cord? Might be a good solution for me too seeing as 20mm edges do not seem to be a thing...

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#23 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 25, 2020, 12:44:43 pm
Yeah, you can't chalk up. I don't find it a real issue at these kind of temps though...

Conversely to you, I find 3 finger drag the safest option of all - it's monos, B2 and crimps that tweak me, and certain edges are tweaky 1/2-crimp on my rh, but not really the BM 2k edges as my 1/2-crimp can be a little more open and less aggressive

Long story, but I had delayed the session so my girlfriend could join in when she got back from work. She then decided she didn't want to after a bad day, by which time the heating in the room below had come on which experience has taught me makes a massive difference! Probably be fine most of the time.

So what does a standard set of 3 grips look like for you? 3 finger drag bottom outside, 4 finger half crimp bottom outside, A.N. Other?

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#24 Re: The Lockdown Project
March 25, 2020, 12:56:30 pm
In the aims for 2020 thread I put something like “match or exceed all my pre-injury strength PBs”. A few times since then I’ve thought that it was a daft thing to put since I’d just go climbing all summer but it now seems like the most realistic one I logged!

In order of importance:
1. Use this opportunity to rehab my dodgy PIP joint. Have made progress on this recently, though the lockdown puts an end to physio sessions.

Not climbing or training at all for five months fixed mine.

 

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