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Climbing during CV-19 (Read 288134 times)

ben_pritchard

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#1325 Re: Climbing during CV-19
May 25, 2020, 08:30:34 am
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« Last Edit: May 25, 2020, 08:43:36 am by ben_pritchard »

ali k

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#1326 Re: Climbing during CV-19
June 21, 2020, 10:17:22 am
After a lot of discussion on here during lockdown about what the new Covid etiquette should be out at the crags, just wondering what the current UKB collective thoughts and experiences are around this now?

I’ve mostly been out during the week and chosen reasonably unpopular lines at sport crags to avoid chances of sharing routes, and it hasn’t really been a consideration up to now but yesterday it was for the first time. The crag (Kilnsey) was probably busier than I’ve ever seen it, even pre-Covid, and all the stuff people had talked about doing once we could climb again had gone completely out of the window. If the ‘new norm’ is basically just the same as before then I’m not gonna swim against the tide, so just wanted to get an idea if this was the case now or just an exception yesterday.

TobyD

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#1327 Re: Climbing during CV-19
June 21, 2020, 11:05:48 am
After a lot of discussion on here during lockdown about what the new Covid etiquette should be out at the crags, just wondering what the current UKB collective thoughts and experiences are around this now?

I’ve mostly been out during the week and chosen reasonably unpopular lines at sport crags to avoid chances of sharing routes, and it hasn’t really been a consideration up to now but yesterday it was for the first time. The crag (Kilnsey) was probably busier than I’ve ever seen it, even pre-Covid, and all the stuff people had talked about doing once we could climb again had gone completely out of the window. If the ‘new norm’ is basically just the same as before then I’m not gonna swim against the tide, so just wanted to get an idea if this was the case now or just an exception yesterday.

I'd say that obvious common sense is the best approach whatever anyone else does. No lift sharing, avoid crags if rammed, try not to crowd anywhere or have any extended close contact but don't stress too much about being less than 2m from people at a breezy crag in the open air. Don't put the rope in your mouth, wash hands asap afterwards... But generally just enjoy going climbing. It's pretty safe from a virus point of view unless you're a twat.

teestub

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#1328 Re: Climbing during CV-19
June 21, 2020, 08:51:56 pm
Well this went down in way more of an internet flaming session in the other channel 😂

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rocktalk/kilnsey_corona-721006?v=1#x9233246

Stu Littlefair

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#1329 Re: Climbing during CV-19
June 21, 2020, 09:14:51 pm
Yes. That escalated quickly. How depressing.

dunnyg

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#1330 Re: Climbing during CV-19
June 21, 2020, 09:26:27 pm
Seems like clear communication at the crag could have saved a lot of typing! Good effort cleaning up dusty route though!

ali k

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#1331 Re: Climbing during CV-19
June 21, 2020, 09:31:17 pm
I probably didn’t communicate well enough at the crag, and I was clearly coming from a place with different expectations of what was ok in terms of transmission risk. But I fully understand why he was annoyed and thought I was just hogging the route. If anyone does know him or you’re on here then I am sorry. I was a bit dismayed at the crag behaviour from a lot of people though (not this person).

Paul B

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#1332 Re: Climbing during CV-19
June 21, 2020, 09:53:10 pm
TBH I'd have probably been a bit frustrated myself even if there was a genuine reason behind just having clipped the first.

It's also far from uncommon to find others on the Puppeteer (especially if things get a little seepy) and surrounding routes these days since the more direct starts were added and given the popularity of the crag (especially so when the Peak is wet).

There are a handful of routes I'd say get very little attention but these mostly cross others.
« Last Edit: June 21, 2020, 10:07:57 pm by Paul B »

Footwork

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#1333 Re: Climbing during CV-19
June 21, 2020, 09:54:21 pm
Don't worry about it Ali. Tensions seem to run a bit higher at busy sport crags I've found. Luckily most experiences have been positive with route sharing and draw swapping.

It did bring back memories of some complete  :wank: at Malham many years ago. His rope was on Seventh Aardvark but he hadn't touched it in ages. Asked if I could pull it down and have a red point but he said no as he was waiting for the shade and would jump on as soon as the shade arrived. Not a cloud in sight at the oven that day.


tomtom

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#1334 Re: Climbing during CV-19
June 21, 2020, 10:03:57 pm
Blimey Ali - to me that all reinforces:
(A) bouldering on my own....
(B) never doing anything with ropes and all that jazz...
(C) never going on UKC chat....

I’m quite happy with all of that!

ali k

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#1335 Re: Climbing during CV-19
June 21, 2020, 10:14:25 pm
It's also far from uncommon to find others on the Puppeteer
Ok, I wasn’t aware of that. But it’s not like the Bulge or Comedy. No one had been on it this year yet. As far as Kilnsey goes I thought it was as safe a bet as I could go for. Anyway, I’ve done the route now and Kilnsey is out for me at weekends.

Neil F

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#1336 Re: Climbing during CV-19
June 21, 2020, 10:34:50 pm
I thought the flaming of Ali on the other channel was outrageous.

I’m heartened to see that I wasn’t the only one after all....

Neil

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#1337 Re: Climbing during CV-19
June 21, 2020, 10:40:05 pm
Blimey Ali - to me that all reinforces:
(A) bouldering on my own....
(B) never doing anything with ropes and all that jazz...
(C) never going on UKC chat....

I’m quite happy with all of that!

Indeed, especially C. Forgotten what a nest of vipers it can be over there.

danm

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#1338 Re: Climbing during CV-19
June 21, 2020, 11:59:49 pm
I thought I was reading the comments section of the Daily Mail tbh, zero point engaging with that unwarranted level of hostility.

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#1339 Re: Climbing during CV-19
June 22, 2020, 12:20:40 am
I've not read the UKC thread beyond the OP, but it's not clear whether the first draw only was in or all of them with a rope in the first? If the former and you did that to me I'd probably pull your rope and remove your draw, and think giving you shit on the internet is fair enough; if the latter then I'd be annoyed but would think it's your shout in these circumstances...

ali k

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#1340 Re: Climbing during CV-19
June 22, 2020, 06:03:32 am
...it's not clear whether the first draw only was in or all of them with a rope in the first? If the former and you did that to me I'd probably pull your rope and remove your draw,
The first draw only. But I’ve explained over there why it was in, and why I considered on this occasion it wouldn’t be a problem just to leave it there (because I thought it so unlikely anyone would be wanting to get on it even given how busy it was - it wasn’t just a simple case of trying to reserve the route). And I could clearly see the rope from where I’d be belaying - it’s about 10-15m away.

But the rope and quickdraw were in, I can’t change that now. The fact you and others say you’d just pull the rope is where I think we’re coming from different places given the current circumstances. And I’m open to the criticism about “why choose Kilnsey at a weekend” etc but up until this Saturday I’ve managed to avoid any situations like this, even going to the ‘Big Three’ crags. They just haven’t been that busy, even Kilnsey the previous Saturday. And I’ve chosen relatively unpopular lines even when the crag has been empty, just in case. But personally I’m still not comfortable touching other people’s stuff or them touching mine - ropes or quickdraws, and i’d avoid sharing a route or getting on something the same day. I accept that doesn’t align with most other people’s view now, but I assumed more or less that it did before this weekend. So anyone just casually saying they’ll pull my rope immediately puts me in the position of having to justify why I feel that’s not ok with me. And that’s uncomfortable. As I said on the other channel, my view might change on this in time but for now I’ll just make sure I adapt my crag choices again. Lesson learnt.

As for general Covid crag behaviour on Saturday and the reason I revived this thread...I witnessed or experienced the following: people brushing past or even bumping into me, someone absent mindedly pulling on my little warm up fingerboard thing hung beneath the route, up to 4 people swinging leads on the same route and quickdraws, large group swapping partners and sharing ropes throughout the day, conversation about lift sharing with what sounded like 3 or 4 in the car (I got the impression not from the same household), general mingling or sitting around pretty close, someone picking up our guidebook, someone asking to borrow our clipstick (awkward discussion declining). I realise this sounds like a grumpy old twat moaning and being over-sensitive (some of these may now be within govt guidelines - I’ve lost track) but it’s just so far away from what I imagined behaviour would be like when this was all being discussed during lockdown.
« Last Edit: June 22, 2020, 06:27:11 am by ali k »

Ged

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#1341 Re: Climbing during CV-19
June 22, 2020, 07:23:56 am
I've not read the UKC thread beyond the OP, but it's not clear whether the first draw only was in or all of them with a rope in the first? If the former and you did that to me I'd probably pull your rope and remove your draw, and think giving you shit on the internet is fair enough; if the latter then I'd be annoyed but would think it's your shout in these circumstances...

I'm surprised any intelligent adult would ever think that an acceptable response is "giving someone shit on the internet".

Also probably worth reading what Ali is saying rather than just listening to the OP. That's kind of the point.

ali k

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#1342 Re: Climbing during CV-19
June 22, 2020, 07:44:32 am
I thought I was reading the comments section of the Daily Mail tbh, zero point engaging with that unwarranted level of hostility.
My only frustration with the guy is that he’s posted on there and then let it rumble on and on without responding even after I’ve tried to make amends and apologised directly to him several times.

gme

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#1343 Re: Climbing during CV-19
June 22, 2020, 08:13:56 am
Covid or no Covid I would have pulled your rope. You can’t reserve a route.

I understand your reluctance to sharing equipment but you can’t expect the same for the rock, do you leave a note at the bottom saying don’t touch for 72 hours. Did you And your partner check the routes you were going on hadn’t been done for a few days before you shared the surfaces.

Sounds to me that the crag was busy and you were just trying the classic put my bag on the chair next to me on the train policy and were challenged.

RobK

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#1344 Re: Climbing during CV-19
June 22, 2020, 08:18:32 am
I thought the flaming of Ali on the other channel was outrageous.

I’m heartened to see that I wasn’t the only one after all....

Neil

I'm not sure if you're the same Neil F who posted on the other channel, but thought this was the best part of that thread:

"If all those getting on their high horses on this thread deploy those horses at the crag, the tricky undercut starts must have been all but eliminated!"

Stu Littlefair

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#1345 Re: Climbing during CV-19
June 22, 2020, 08:31:11 am
Oh dear this is all going a bit ukc. Ali isn’t really defending leaving his gear in, he’s apologised. Alex and Gav - you’re just kicking at an open door.

Far more interesting to me is the reason Ali posted. Way back in this thread it was argued that it was perfectly possible to let people go climbing and maintain social distancing, and some of us argued that it was possible, but just wouldn’t happen. Everyone would go to the busy crags anyway, etc.

It sounds like that’s where we are now. This raises a bit of an issue; there will be people who wish to be more cautious sharing crags with people who are past giving a fuck. Without a bit of understanding and polite tolerance of the other perspective, this is going to allow people to fuck up other people’s days.

Ali’s story is one such example, another is when I was driven away from a small bouldering crag I’d been at for an hour by a group of six people who didn’t even think to ask if I’d mind.

Debating who’s right or wrong in each situation is pointless, since there are no absolutes here. But surely we should be advocating that everyone gives some consideration for others feelings at the moment?

gme

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#1346 Re: Climbing during CV-19
June 22, 2020, 08:39:43 am
I am not having ago but he asked our opinions. To me doing this wasnt acceptable pre Covid and that hasn’t changed.
In the past people just shared there kit so It wasn’t an issue. Now it is perhaps the solution is not to leave your kit in the route.

Stu Littlefair

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#1347 Re: Climbing during CV-19
June 22, 2020, 08:46:55 am
He asked your opinion about twelve posts ago and admitted he was probably in the wrong. The conversation has moved on.

Sorry Gav, but to keep dragging the conversation back falls squarely into the territory of having a go.

gme

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#1348 Re: Climbing during CV-19
June 22, 2020, 08:49:08 am
Sorry I should have opening the internet earlier in the morning so I keep current.

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#1349 Re: Climbing during CV-19
June 22, 2020, 08:54:58 am
All good points Stu, a bit of consideration for others views and feelings is always great.

But as you say Ali asked for opinions, and Gav gave his, which seems fair enough to me.
I don’t think Ali should have left his rope in the route either (sorry, I’m kicking an open door as well...) but as you say he has apologised so hey-ho...

Overall this comes across as a bit of miscommunication and misunderstanding followed by some outraged bandwagon jumping.

Anyway discussions about where a rope should or shouldn’t be at Kilnsey will probably become academic if parking photos I’ve seen are anything to go by...

 

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