[duncan]

Assuming access to a fingerboard, pull-up bar, basic free weights, and gymnastic rings, but without the luxury of a home board.

My personal goals are in the long single-pitch trad. or sport, so very interested in longer duration endurance ideas. You can assume an almost pathologically high boredom threshold, there may be plenty of time to do this. Max hangs for finger strength are a given but all other ideas welcome. 

[Coops_13]

I'm stuck with a portable fingerboard only but nowhere to hang it. Gonna have to find some heavy things / sneak out to a nearby tree. Luckily I have lots of rock nearby - current advice seems to be you can still go out but if the crag's busy, move on...

[Nutty]

I posted the below in the Epidemiology Club thread:

I've done aerocap before with feet on a step placed behind a door-frame mounted finger board. Had a BM2000 with a medium campus rung below it and made hand movements between the campus rung, deep slots and 20 degree sloper. Modify difficulty by moving the step forward/back and having either both feet or swapping between feet on the step. Have a podcast or playlist ready to stave off tedium.

Similar idea to foot-on campus.

[csl]

Assuming access to a fingerboard, pull-up bar, basic free weights, and gymnastic rings, but without the luxury of a home board.

My personal goals are in the long single-pitch trad. or sport, so very interested in longer duration endurance ideas. You can assume an almost pathologically high boredom threshold, there may be plenty of time to do this. Max hangs for finger strength are a given but all other ideas welcome.

The crimpd app (crimpd.com) includes fingerboard based workouts for AeroCap and AnCap by reducing the weight you are hanging and doing repeaters.

[kingholmesy]

What Nutty said.

I sometimes do sessions with around 2 or 2 1/2 mins hangs (with one foot on a chair and moving a hand to a different hold every 10 seconds), with the same amount of rest between sets.

I aim for a level of intensity that by the end of a set my fingers are uncurling and my forearms totalling pumped.  After 6 sets I’m wasted.

[cheque]

My other half’s just assembled what I’m amazed to learn is not the cheapest exercise bike available in our living room.

I’ve been rueing the money I spent on weights years ago ever since I joined the gym to start my rehab but it looks like they’ll come in handy now (the gym is actually still open but fuck that) going to be the strongest road biker out there once we emerge from the other side of this. 

[Fiend]

Duncan - I have a mate who whilst offshore did the sort of almost incomprehensibly boring foot-on campus-rung hangs/shuffling that Nutty and Holmsey recommend and it definitely seemed to work for him. Pathological boredom threshold very useful, also good spiritual preparation for The Oak.

[jwi]

As you are probably aware of, here in France we are in almost full lock-down. We are still allowed to do a bit of exercise, but only individually and only in the direct vicinity of the home. I am planning to run 2-3 times a week as long as that is allowed.

I do not plan to keep my strength-endurance levels up in the fingers, as the strength endurance is the quickest to regain, and also because it is somewhat concurrent with strength. I plan to keep some level of endurance by doing about one session of stamina training on our oversized fingerboard (feet on, behind the board) per week. I'm thinking around 60 min of brutal boredom with a podcast once a week... This will also be somewhat concurrent with strength (my body just loves endurance) so I am still a bit undecided... I haven't had the first endurance session yet...

I will try to see the 2 weeks (yeah, right, everyone realise that we are talking minimum 20 days...) as an opportunity to improve finger-strength and regain a bit of pull strength that I lost to shoulder injuries last year. I have planned out 4 weeks of sessions as I assume that we will be in isolation for about 4 weeks, but there is a possibility to abort after 2 weeks if miracles happen.

As there is no pesky climbing to interrupt my hangboard sessions I will train all major grip types: drag, half crimp, full crimp and pinches. I will also do some auxiliary training for my weak right ring finger. For the overall structure my plan is to use variation of load/volume on a weekly basis with

1st weekm (medium week): long hangs, starting at 40s then two sessions of 20s hangs. (medium week)

2nd week (hard week) medium long hangs at around 12s down to 9s. 4 sessions. TUL from 50s to 120s per grip type

3rd week (deload) mostly medium hangs 10s or so but also a session of 7s hangs. TUL around 60s but with a decent margin to task-failure.

4th week (towards 5s max test). Peak preparation 3 sessions towards new PB on 5s hangs in all three positions.

The pull exercises will follow the same linear periodisation starting at 18-25 reps  down to 1 rep max at the end of week 4. For the rest (core, legs, push, shoulders) I will do random stuff.

Stretching at least 3 times a week.

[moose]

I am currently in home-working, lock-down mode (except when site visits come in) - with constant online surveillance and "hard" time-sheets. 

So, I'm interested in non / minimal equipment based body-weight workouts I can do during 30 min - 1 hr lunch breaks in my living room.  Interested in all over conditioning, especially core - I reckon I can best address climbing specifics with finger boarding (and perhaps trying to remember where my pull up bar is). 

 Any suggestions for routines? I realise this might have been asked previously, but I suspect any advice provided will be appreciated by a fair few fellow isolatees. 

[HarryBD]

I have a bodyweight training ebook if you're interested - can share as a google drive link but don't want to post publicly - PM me if you're interested (goes for anyone else too)

[TobyD]

 
So, I'm interested in non / minimal equipment based body-weight workouts I can do during 30 min - 1 hr lunch breaks in my living room.  Interested in all over conditioning, especially core - I reckon I can best address climbing specifics with finger boarding (and perhaps trying to remember where my pull up bar is). 

 Any suggestions for routines? I realise this might have been asked previously, but I suspect any advice provided will be appreciated by a fair few fellow isolatees. 

The crimpd app has some decent floor core exercises - anything like planks, side planks, supine leg raises, crunches, hanging leg raises. Plenty more if you have a TRX or rings, or can improvise something similar

[teestub]

Duncan, if you have a fingerboard with jugs or the board is next to the pull up bar, you could do low intensity sets of repeaters with rest intervals on the jugs or bar (feet on a stool or lots of weight off with a pulley) to simulate resting on jugs?

Was thinking some pull up sets in an EMOM format (maybe with assistance if required to do higher reps) might be a good replicator if shoulder fatigue of longer routes too?

For floor core I like this series from BD, bit different from the usual.



Was going to write a longer post about fingerboarding options but I guess a lot of people will just use the lettuce app these days.

[TobyD]

I don't have a finger board only a bar and rock rings, can anyone suggest any decent protocols on them apart from obvious pull ups?

[Muenchener]

I'm working on my boredom threshold - did my first hour of TFNA Zone 2 box step-ups yesterday. Surprisingly survivable if you get your youtube queue properly set up in advance.

(And some max hangs)

[spidermonkey09]

constant online surveillance and "hard" time-sheets. 

If I had this I would have been fired long ago!

[teestub]

I don't have a finger board only a bar and rock rings, can anyone suggest any decent protocols on them apart from obvious pull ups?

Toby not used rock rings for years but remember the middle edge being quite a useful size? I don’t see why you couldn’t use them for regular fingerboarding or use one with a sling, band or pulley on the bar for assisted one arm work?

[jwi]

and if you do not have a pulley, throwing a bit of rope above the bar and tying a counterweigh (a bag of filled bottles e.g.) is good enough.

If you need equipment, can't you just order it online? Home delivery still works in France at least. They call, dump the packet on the ground, and stay 2m+ away from the customer. No signing, just verbal confirmation of the name.

[Murph]

....you can still go out but if the crag's busy, move on...

Never seen trackside busier than it was on tuesday, but schools haven't even closed yet so we are still a ways off of a proper policy let alone enforcement.

Useful thread this. Think I'm going to have to excavate the fingerboard and get stuck in.

[SA Chris]

constant online surveillance and "hard" time-sheets. 

If I had this I would have been fired long ago!

Likewise

[duncan]

Thanks everyone.

Looks like foot-on fingerboarding is the way forward. Once a week will be plenty, my main focus is still strength as this is my biggest limitation.

Not much will happen this week, I'm 6 days into a chest infection of some kind. No significant temperature spike so I don't think it's that kind but it's wiped me out. Home working whilst attempting to meaningfully occupy 10 year old who also had the bug doesn't help! 

I'll make some suggestions about general leg, trunk and shoulder conditioning when I've more energy.

[tomtom]

constant online surveillance and "hard" time-sheets. 

If I had this I would have been fired long ago!

Moose - have you seen those devices designed to fool those systems? You can get a usb thingy that moves your mouse pointer around the screen every few seconds.

[moose]

I perhaps over-egged the degree of surveillance - essentially everyone can see when you are on the company VPN and contact you via an in-house messaging app but (as far as I know) activity is not continuously monitored.  But, you do have to account for your time on a rigoourous timesheet.   There are only so many hours that can be writen off as non-renumerative "admin" and if you do far less invoiceable work than expected, it is be noticed.  But there's nothing to stop you from doing "proper" work at your convenience (during the evening / a few spare hours over the weekend) and making up for it.

[Will Hunt]

Well, I did the BD Beta core workout. After the first exercise I thought, "oh, this piss". Then the next exercises came along. I'm now an empty shell.

[shark]

Assuming access to a fingerboard, pull-up bar, basic free weights, and gymnastic rings, but without the luxury of a home board.

My personal goals are in the long single-pitch trad. or sport, so very interested in longer duration endurance ideas. You can assume an almost pathologically high boredom threshold, there may be plenty of time to do this. Max hangs for finger strength are a given but all other ideas welcome.

Duncan - was interesting listening to a spiel by Steve Bechtel with regard to circumstances facing all of us from 9.13

https://www.facebook.com/climbstrong/videos/233504881171865/

A key point is that instead of trying to inadequately trying to hang on to our general all round climbing performance and endurance that a better response is to instead focus and prioritise on boosting performance of a few narrower things that we have perhaps put off for years.

[tomtom]

Indeed - my aims are to work on a pathetic back two (so much of my finger strength is front two) - to be able to lock off - and maybe some one arm stuff.

I’ll hope my existing strengths will come back fairly quickly - but can use the tedium and monotony of a fingerboard to work on weaknesses.

[shark]

I’ll hope my existing strengths will come back fairly quickly - but can use the tedium and monotony of a fingerboard to work on weaknesses.

Yes - in general those things that you’ve worked the most over the years are the things that tend to come back quicker

[duncan]

Duncan - was interesting listening to a spiel by Steve Bechtel with regard to circumstances facing all of us from 9.13

https://www.facebook.com/climbstrong/videos/233504881171865/

A key point is that instead of trying to inadequately trying to hang on to our general all round climbing performance and endurance that a better response is to instead focus and prioritise on boosting performance of a few narrower things that we have perhaps put off for years.

Thanks for this, it's a good point. Luckily my biggest weaknesses are my basic finger and shoulder strength (and power) and tendency to get injured. All these are quite easily trained with a fingerboard, pull-up bar, rings, and some bodyweight work. I'm now doing what the rest of the world has done for 20 years!

Long endurance was an icing on the cake option, I never envisaged more than once a week. Short endurance can just wait; when it's all over I look forward to getting pumped after three moves!

[Will Hunt]

While doing the core exercises vid yesterday it became very obvious that I'm quite inflexible. The most apparent thing was leg inflexibility, so I started using the rest periods between exercises to do some very simple "try and touch your toes" stretches, but wondered if there was any easy-to-digest resource out there that could recommend some useful stretches for climbers?

[HarryBD]

While doing the core exercises vid yesterday it became very obvious that I'm quite inflexible. The most apparent thing was leg inflexibility, so I started using the rest periods between exercises to do some very simple "try and touch your toes" stretches, but wondered if there was any easy-to-digest resource out there that could recommend some useful stretches for climbers?

https://www.beastmaker.co.uk/pages/neds-flexy-madness

[jwi]

A bunch of exercises from Romain Desgrange for people looking for variety/fun stuff to do for warmup etc. In french, but whatever, body french should be understandable: just copy the movements.

[mrjonathanr]

Question is Will, what do you want to be flexible? I struggle to touch my toes but it doesn’t impede my climbing. Hip flexibility is massively useful though. Ditto shoulders, so you don’t cause chronic damage.

[reeve]

While doing the core exercises vid yesterday it became very obvious that I'm quite inflexible. The most apparent thing was leg inflexibility, so I started using the rest periods between exercises to do some very simple "try and touch your toes" stretches, but wondered if there was any easy-to-digest resource out there that could recommend some useful stretches for climbers?

The last few months I've used this: and several others on his channel, which I've really got along with.

[Will Hunt]

Session #1
https://www.instagram.com/p/B-K7uRmDAqI/?igshid=k3sairmsqu3j

Stay psyched, everyone.

[Bradders]

That's a very clean looking board Will, nice.

[SA Chris]

I've strung up some old rock rungs in a tree outside to get  bit of fresh air and a change from beastmakering

Anything i do on them I seem to naturally turn them back to back, both hangs and pull ups. Should i try to resist this, or doesn't it matter? Be better moving them further apart?

[spidermonkey09]

Well, I did the BD Beta core workout. After the first exercise I thought, "oh, this piss". Then the next exercises came along. I'm now an empty shell.

Interesting, did it last night and found it pretty steady, sort of like a yoga/core crossover. Clearly more reps required. Girlfriend suggested men might find it harder than women as there is loads of hip/pelvic stuff in there which women might be better at/train more.

Still worth doing for those that are keen.

[Will Hunt]

I think you finding it easier than me is probably more related to the fact that I NEVER do any isolated exercises of any description, EVER. So what little core strength I have is what I have accrued by simply going climbing. Likewise finger-strength etc.
I did 30 mins on the fingerboard yesterday and, it might be that I wasn't warmed up, or it might be that I wasn't fully trying hard enough, but fucking hell. Using the big deep two finger pockets with middle two and no added weight was virtually a max hang. Using the two smallest crimp rungs (BM2K) was also virtually a max hang! 

Soooooooo weak!

[Camo]

I've strung up some old rock rungs in a tree outside to get  bit of fresh air and a change from beastmakering

Anything i do on them I seem to naturally turn them back to back, both hangs and pull ups. Should i try to resist this, or doesn't it matter? Be better moving them further apart?

I have always done exactly this. I have never known if it was just my poor form or wether that was the way to use them. I’ve been using my beastmaker a lot lot more and haven’t touched the rock rings for ages.

[spidermonkey09]

I think you finding it easier than me is probably more related to the fact that I NEVER do any isolated exercises of any description, EVER. So what little core strength I have is what I have accrued by simply going climbing. Likewise finger-strength etc.
I did 30 mins on the fingerboard yesterday and, it might be that I wasn't warmed up, or it might be that I wasn't fully trying hard enough, but fucking hell. Using the big deep two finger pockets with middle two and no added weight was virtually a max hang. Using the two smallest crimp rungs (BM2K) was also virtually a max hang! 

Soooooooo weak!

That bottom outside edge is a bastard. At least you'll improve quickly now you actually have to do some training.

Get on the abripperx train. I remember doing some core with the general leeds lot a few years ago in depot back room and them actively laughing at me and my pitiful core. Being a competitive dick I've focused on it a lot more since 

No excuses now!

[abarro81]

Bottom outside edges are also a load easier as a half crimp than a full crimp

[spidermonkey09]

Bottom outside edges are also a load easier as a half crimp than a full crimp

Full crimp on a fingerboard?

[Will Hunt]

Bottom outside edges are also a load easier as a half crimp than a full crimp

That's what I was doing 

[abarro81]

Bottom outside edges are also a load easier as a half crimp than a full crimp

That's what I was doing 

  I just thought you might have messed up the beta when you called them crimp rungs

[teestub]

Full crimp on a fingerboard?

100% especially when if you don’t have a board so you’re not doing it anywhere else right now. Although I note that Will half crimped everything on his board, which may explain why he was falling off

[tomtom]

Dont forget to keep those thumbs across the palms on the half crimps!

[Bradders]

Dont forget to keep those thumbs across the palms on the half crimps!

Is that important? I've always half crimped with thumbs just sort of pointing upwards.

[Bradders]

Session #1
https://www.instagram.com/p/B-K7uRmDAqI/?igshid=k3sairmsqu3j

Stay psyched, everyone.

What are the dimensions of your board Will? And what hold spacing do you have between T nuts?

[tomtom]

Dont forget to keep those thumbs across the palms on the half crimps!

Is that important? I've always half crimped with thumbs just sort of pointing upwards.

It’s certainly different. Jack at the Hull wall gave me a good reason why we should all do half crimps like that - that I’ve forgotten!!

Have a try - I quite like it now. I think it might isolate just the four fingers or something like that.

[fatneck]

Never been one for training but even managed to get the wife on the fingerboard yesterday!! I said we'll do this 2 or 3 times a week - she was disgusted and thought we should be doing 30 minutes every day 

[nai]

Well, I did the BD Beta core workout. After the first exercise I thought, "oh, this piss". Then the next exercises came along. I'm now an empty shell.

Interesting, did it last night and found it pretty steady, sort of like a yoga/core crossover. Clearly more reps required. Girlfriend suggested men might find it harder than women as there is loads of hip/pelvic stuff in there which women might be better at/train more.

Still worth doing for those that are keen.

I find them all ok except the Teaser/V sit.  But oddly I find the variations even harder.  Without my legs up in the air or almost straight out in front, kind of acting as a counter balance there's no way I can lift the torso (effectively do a situp) without a bit of momentum.  If anyone knows what weakness in the chain that exposes, I'd love to know

[SA Chris]

Just be careful with this stuff of form if you are starting afresh and going at it too hard too soon. Rounding of torso can cause lower back / SI Joint issues. Make sure chest is out shoulders are back and all core muscles engaged.

[Will Hunt]

Session #1
https://www.instagram.com/p/B-K7uRmDAqI/?igshid=k3sairmsqu3j

Stay psyched, everyone.

What are the dimensions of your board Will? And what hold spacing do you have between T nuts?

It's 40 degrees. I think the hold spacing I used was equal to the Moonboard, so a 20cm grid of T nuts with wooden holds placed between these and some little core micro finger jugs (the blue things) to help warm up. Based on that I think it's 2m wide and the climbing surface is about 3m long. Then there's a short kicker (15cm rings a bell). I'll leave you to do the trig and tell me how tall it is!

Ben and Nathaniel always delighted in telling me how shit my board is, but I've definitely seen shitter! They have at times come into the garage and felt the holds and declared it pointless as it would be impossible to set hard problems on it. A mediocre board is better than no board!

[spidermonkey09]

Ben and Nathaniel always delighted in telling me how shit my board is, but I've definitely seen shitter! They have at times come into the garage and felt the holds and declared it pointless as it would be impossible to set hard problems on it. A mediocre board is better than no board!

That might be true for those two underachieving at 8A and 8A+ respectively...for the rest of us the board looks more than adequate!

[teestub]

A mediocre board is better than no board!

100% I bet a lot of people are currently reviewing their home training options and potential for a move. Turned out Dave Mac was right all those years ago!

[nai]

Just be careful with this stuff of form if you are starting afresh and going at it too hard too soon. Rounding of torso can cause lower back / SI Joint issues. Make sure chest is out shoulders are back and all core muscles engaged.

flattening your lower back to the floor seems to be a pretty good indicator that you're core is engaged and you're ready to go. Once you feel happy with that it's easier to know that you're enagaged when you're not on your back.

[tomtom]

A mediocre board is better than no board!

100% I bet a lot of people are currently reviewing their home training options and potential for a move.

Yup.

[Bradders]

A mediocre board is better than no board!

100% I bet a lot of people are currently reviewing their home training options and potential for a move. Turned out Dave Mac was right all those years ago!

Tell me about. Living 10 mins walk from the Depot definitely lulled me into a false sense of security!

Thanks for the info Will. I've got permission to build a shed in the garden with board very similar to those dimensions so sounds pretty good to me! If we ever get out of this mess anyway.

[Will Hunt]

The most important rule of board building (IMO) is to build the biggest board that you can.
And then the next rule is that if space (especially height) is limiting then you may have to deviate from personal preference on steepness. A 30 degree board needs to be really tall to be fun IMO.