[shark]

11.3-5 average 153.4 down 2.0lb

M.

T. Still had sore throat. Rainy. Getting towards fighting weight. Contemplated resting up. PM Foundry. New campus set up looked busy and included some bizarre slopey diagonals. DT there and not happy with it. S7 rungs still there. Felt strong. Highlights were holding 1 and 4 on new big rungs and with a dab off back wall got 7. Very close to holding 1 and 4 and pulling through to 6 a few times on S7 rungs. Good hang deep upper outside slot on BM2k with RH ok but not left. Also did well on Oak move variants on woodie. Moved to Wave and worked yellow and black left of centre on steep section and got close. Adam pointed that the other yellow and black to its right was easier and got that after a few goes. Ace session. Shoulder fully mended.

W.

T. Weather good and needed to escape from reality (market meltdown). After tuesdays promising session and better shoulder thought it would be good to test myself at Tor. Was more seepy than I expected. Holds felt glassy to begin with. THFML a few times. Nai showed up. Experimented with the heel again but can’t make it work. Got stuck into throw move. Found I could use a better positioned foothold for my left foot which I couldn’t make work before. Once got into it did the throw move and despite not having worked the rest of the hard moves continued all the way to the reach on THFML and felt fresh (but still muffed it up ) Nlown away and a new PB link. Next attempt got to the THFML but toe hook came out dropping into the mono. Next attempt repeated same link as the first. Buzzing. Last go tired but still pulled off first few moves with screaming tips. The hard move has gone from low % to now being able to do it every time and the others I can bang out without reworking.

F.

S. PM Systems Board. Strong on Oak move - repeated hardest version. Did old AnCap/PE circuit. Then 20/10’s timing 2 secs per move. Completed first set and burnt out by move 90 on second set.

S.

Fired up by gainz this week. Felt like the sum of various small physical improvements along with a change of scene for a couple of weeks, restored psyche and shoulder recovery combined to help on Bens although the most significant difference felt like improved finger power and contact strength (rate of force development) from new fingerboard exercises. Excited to find out how this will all apply on the Oak If it ever dries out.

Tommy home and Ben home next weekend so looking forward to climbing with them. Silver wedding anniversary next week and have paid to stay at a swanky hotel in London next weekend but that’s all looking iffy now.

Now - did someone have a question about AnCap protocols..?

[Offwidth]

Great work on all fronts. Maybe I need to write down my version for this week but I won't be able to publish it for a while yet until some work issues are resolved. Needless to say you will be pleased to hear that despite being the heaviest I have ever been (14st 11)  I won beer for being 2nd in the Legends category at The Unit, by spreading coronavirus panic  (the spreading bit is a joke).

[Fiend]

Now - did someone have a question about AnCap protocols..?

NO.

[Will Hunt]

T - Depot

Su - messed about on Jokers wall to warm up. Nathaniel pointed me at Oops. Eventually figured out the body position to pull on and did it by popping for the big pocket. Supposed to be 7C-8A static. God knows why anyone does that when it's 7A/+ to pop.
Tried Chicken and could do the move to the sloper. Tricky to hold and couldn't initiate the move beyond that.
Went to try Tin Can Alley and did it first go! Felt 7A for me. Andyd, who is a bit shorter, logged it as 7A+.
Finished on the hardest of the day - Cleft Butty (5+).

[tomtom]

Scales read 68.2 at some point in the week... record lows...

M: Church on my way to Hull. Decent session - minor progress on GT - Bottom part now feeling easy which means I am improving... Had my hand in the end hold a couple of times - but not with a meaningful body position that meant I could hold it...

Tu: Mad Volume. Good session. Warmed up on problems - then spent a couple of hours on the board.

We: Rest

Thu: Up to Wilton3... warmed up at home. Cold but dry enough. Dropped the last move having linked it from the bottom for the first time. Gutted.

Fri: Up to Kendal and back with the boy to see his grandparents before lockdown is initiated...

Sa: Trowbarrow (again). Didnt really want to go - but late morning rain and forecast of showers left few other options. Left too late (family faffing) and ended up only having an hour before the rain was due to come in (it was only 5 min late)... ended up rushing my session really badly. Not sure if it was any better or worse than before. Spotted a fella called Lee up hold em which looks like an ace problem.

Su: Had an unexpected couple of hours free - so went and checked out a dank quarry near Glossop. It was wet and had a dead sheep in a pool. Full quotient of quality grit quarry atmospherics. Went to Hobson moor on the way back. Which was half dry... not been for years and quite enjoyed the triangle and percy97 etc... Had a play on Basic Training Start (7B+) which spat me off sideways and I completely missed my mat - just missed bashing my head into the sidewall but landed full force on hip and shoulder. Winded - but seem OK.

[yetix]

Almost at my weight Mr TT and you're like half a foot taller I imagine!

M: Rest
T: Max hangs
W: Parisella's. Started on Ferrino Sans pocket, did the end a few times. but wasn't feeling great. Moved onto Hatch, not tried these moves in aeons, eventually got the moves wired, but wasn't able to link into anything, still happy to get some new moves in the cave done. Moved onto Cave Life short into LWH, managed to fall off the last dropable move (taking the last crimp before the jugs where LWH merges with LW).
T: Rest
F: Max hangs
S: Wanted to go Cratcliffe and finish T Crack off but the weather looked rubbish so bailed back to Parisellas instead with Rob. Managed to send Clever Cleaver in a couple of goes after always finding the knacky first move frustratingly hard, today it felt pretty steady. Moved onto Cave Life Short into LWH, did it first go which was pretty nice. Moved onto the Highlife and managed to fall off the last dropable move twice, before regressing further on another go. Next time. Rob managed to get Highlife which was his first of the grade which was pretty cool to see! Seems like he's in good shape for sport season atm!
S: Wanted to go Cratcliffe again (dog and a bone right? ha), optimistically drove over, it was expectedly wet so drove to the Tor. Did Too Hard for Mark Leach sitter to warm up as hadn't done this before then got on Cave Problem. spent ages doing from the LH starting hold and RH crimp to getting the heel on (so 1 move in). eventually did it went to the top (why didnt I do it from the bottom?!). spent ages figuring out how to do the foot moves after the first move before overpowering it and falling off as I got the heel in once. Felt spent. Had some progressively worsening goes. Another one for next time!

Good week as a couple of ticks and plenty lined up for the next sessions. Off work Wed-Sun next week so if the weather (and CV19) allows for it I'll hopefully get out out a fair bit again and maybe close some accounts!

[eastside]

Power club!

M: repeaters 1/2 crimp, sloper, pinch with pullups, rows, hanging knee raises in between
T: just deadlifts. Packing for France
W: travel. LAX basically empty. Spooky. No lines at TSA
T: landed at CDG to the news of Trump's travel ban. Fuck it we're here, not going home now
F: wife wanted to circuit so did oranges at Canche, not my favorite circuit but completed it easily, blues looked quite a bit better
S: rainy, went for a hike in the woods near our gite in Moigny-sur-Ecole, found an obscure zone with a cool looking arete that apparently is 7C+ from the sit, if we get locked down in place at least I'll have something to work on as it's less than 1Km walk through empty woods from our gite
S: tried to go to cuvier to get on Duroxmanie but was too busy, bailed to Oiseaux but that was busy too, walked over to Segognole and ran into Beth and Randy, at least we're not the only Americans crazy enough to still be here. Had the zone to ourselves for a bit and did some of the orange and red problems there, all quite good, not paying attention to grades. Eventually it got busy so we left and headed to la padole for some much needed social distancing. Nobody there and even no chalk on the boulders. Did a couple oranges, a blue and red before trying white #30, a 6c arete with some cool heel hooks and slightly high slopey top. Somehow sent second go which surprised me, I guess I have gotten stronger.

Back at the gite more obsessing over the news, France is expected to announce full lockdown today but likely it won't go into effect til midnight, going to head to Beauvais as it seems like a large and spread out area, definitely want to stay away from the crowds even more than usual

[Andy W]

Power club!

M: repeaters 1/2 crimp, sloper, pinch with pullups, rows, hanging knee raises in between
T: just deadlifts. Packing for France
W: travel. LAX basically empty. Spooky. No lines at TSA
T: landed at CDG to the news of Trump's travel ban. Fuck it we're here, not going home now
F: wife wanted to circuit so did oranges at Canche, not my favorite circuit but completed it easily, blues looked quite a bit better
S: rainy, went for a hike in the woods near our gite in Moigny-sur-Ecole, found an obscure zone with a cool looking arete that apparently is 7C+ from the sit, if we get locked down in place at least I'll have something to work on as it's less than 1Km walk through empty woods from our gite
S: tried to go to cuvier to get on Duroxmanie but was too busy, bailed to Oiseaux but that was busy too, walked over to Segognole and ran into Beth and Randy, at least we're not the only Americans crazy enough to still be here. Had the zone to ourselves for a bit and did some of the orange and red problems there, all quite good, not paying attention to grades. Eventually it got busy so we left and headed to la padole for some much needed social distancing. Nobody there and even no chalk on the boulders. Did a couple oranges, a blue and red before trying white #30, a 6c arete with some cool heel hooks and slightly high slopey top. Somehow sent second go which surprised me, I guess I have gotten stronger.

Back at the gite more obsessing over the news, France is expected to announce full lockdown today but likely it won't go into effect til midnight, going to head to Beauvais as it seems like a large and spread out area, definitely want to stay away from the crowds even more than usual

WElcome to France...I'm in the Arielle which feels quiet. Just wondered where you got the info about the full lockdown, I think it will happen, or at least should happen.

[spidermonkey09]

That might be the best downgrade yet from Will. Almost a full number grade!

M - rest after two days on on the grit.

T - Wall. Skin was still sore so kept it fairly brief. Finished off board project which was satisfying and a new level of difficulty on that board.

W - max hangs. 6.25kg assist, nearly completed a set but failed on the final rep.

T - Core.

F - rest.

S - drove to the Peak intending to try and finish off Shit at Higgar. Met Matt there. It was sadly soaked so moved to Burbage North where a strong wind was blowing but somehow the rock remained damp for ages. Must have been very high humidity. After moping around for a while I remembered Banana Finger are was dry so warmed up there. Couldn't do Banana Finger Direct so moved right onto Little Brown Thug. Couldn't do this either so moved right again to Radioactive Dustbin, which I also could not do. On top of this the pebbly grit was savaging my skin. After nearly breaking my legs missing the pads falling off the first move on Radioactive Dustbin, saved the session by moving back to Small is Beautiful and did this second go above a few more pads. Brilliant problem, one of the best 7As in the Peak. Immediately after I did it it started raining. Frustrating day but at least I got out. Felt absolutely knackered in the evening which made me suspect I was coming down with something.

S - felt fucked again so didn't do much. Kept an eye on temperature but seemed normal and wasn't coughing.

Feel fine today so proceeding as normal. Weird week where I didn't do a lot. Bit gutted not to get more climbing in on Saturday, but such are the vagaries of winter/spring in the UK. If the weather plays ball, its dry enough, no one is ill and the government hasn't banned movement hoping to get back to Malham next weekend. Predictably mint out the window this morning, lets see how long that lasts.

[nai]

STG:  Increase FS. Grow 5cm
2020 Lime, Grit and AN Other Font 7Cs.

M - Sore skin.
Decided to do a block of Anderson hangs as gainz from maxes seems to have stalled. I've always done them wrong on previous attempts as well.
This was pretty a benchmarking session, opted for pickups rather than hangs on weaker grips
Benchmarked pullups, 1RM = 162%, 2RM 153%.

T - leg day - squat, hip hinge, lunge, hamstring ext.

W - Jackson Tor with Dolly. Made it to the hold above the guppy and chicken head about six times but couldn't commit to the final section to the break. Had to walk away with just the king line of stirrup spring sit. But I suppose at least I walked away...

Th - plan had been another set of Andersons but the weather and seemingly imminent isolation made heading out while we still could attractive. Church with Dolly was an option but I suddenly thought that Cave Problem would likely be dry in the wind and saw the glory.  Warmed up thoroughly on wood and headed to the Tor instead. Unfortunately the stand slot was soaking so couldn't really work to it or from it. Had a quick play on Ben's but heart wasn't really in it and skin was sore (wasn't doing too well either) so headed off. Popped into Rubicon on a whim but it was flooded.
Back home for plan A

FS rest

S More Andersons.
More weighted pullups plus one arm negatives
TRX Ys, Ts, reverse fly, low row.

[abarro81]

New campus set up looked busy and included some bizarre slopey diagonals. DT there and not happy with it.

New campus board is ace. it has all the functionality of the old board and a shit load more added

[gollum]

M - Weather looks threatening all day and am in Manchester sorting stuff out so nip to the Depot there on the way back.
Have a go at reds and purples. Don’t flash as many as I’d like and some I just can’t see how to do it. Slow road to recovery.
Do a weights session before o finish concentrating on some shoulder work as they have taken the biggest battering during my injury.  Reasonable weight and more reps than usual to help rebuild. Finish off with some core work.

T - Trip to Sheffield Depot with Steve. Do lots of volume ticking about 3/4 of the reds and leaving the rest for another day.  Do a couple of purples but pretty sure have done them before to be honest.
Do some weights. Bench up to 3x80 without a spotter which feels okay but maybe about the limit of my courage at the moment. Then go on to do a load more presses and flys etc at a range of angles. Bit of core at the end but really am pretty shot to be fair.

W - Plans fall through so end up back at Sheffield. Do most of the remaining reds bar three and then do about half an hour of circuits which just feel hard.
Weights again and deadlifts to start. Manage to reach 145k but just fail at 150k. Pretty happy with that as been three months since I deadlifted for weight. On to rack pulls for 3 up to 150, followed by T-bar rows. Move on to pull ups with weight added do 5 reps, reach +20k but find it tough. Some very poor quality assisted OAP to follow and then some scapular raises which feel really unbalanced. Finish session with plank, leg raises and levers with one leg tucked.

T - Forecast is high winds so plump for afternoon session at Pudsey. Do lots more of the purples and feel like I am getting back into the groove a bit with strength and timing getting much better. Think a high intensity week has helped. Potter on circuits a bit do things that are just too hard for me but get me very tired. Finish off with footless yellow circuit larking about and feels like it’s good for licks and core stability as well as well as a bit of a laugh.
Weights today is a bit of arms work just to finish off.

F - Travel to Barcelona for the marathon, which is no longer happening.

S - Pretty much everywhere is shut so wander down the beach for a walk. See lots of people being informed of the effects of the state of emergency and unsurprisingly many are heartbroken.

S - By today, everything is shut and movement is restricted so spend the day very uncharacteristically sat by the pool at the hotel.

An interesting week which reminds just how much stuff we take for granted and how easily that can slip away.

[User deactivated.]

Bench up to 3x80 without a spotter which feels okay but maybe about the limit of my courage at the moment.

Probably not entirely safe but i've learnt to escape a failed bench press set by rolling the bar down to my thighs then sitting up. Never had any issues at weights exceeding 100kg. Might be worth practising with a comfortable weight first and if you feel confident then you can try harder.

[HarryBD]

T - Depot, climbed some things and tried not to pick my nose, slightly more successful at the latter

F - Glen, session on Phils, felt a bit off, ankle still a bit tweaky so maybe it was in my head that I didn't want to fall, repeated Manson's wall in a couple of goes. Love that thin, just about there climbing.

S - Almscliff, did the two things on the really steep first boulder which are not my style - found a kneebar that probably makes the 6A a 5+, Tumbledown or something. Morrell's wall in a couple of goes - that had been bugging me. Went to the South Cave for the first time and looked at Patta's arete but my jelly core isn't strong enough to get my heel up which is lame. Did backhander which is good and reachy but with decent intermediates. Tetrapak crack was good too.

S - Walk in the dales with Mum and L, talked about coronavirus for ages then realised we could talk about other stuff and were laughing all the way on the second half. Played on some of the limestone pavement and had lunch at Conistone Pie - down Conistone dib which was a cool dry canyon sort of thing. Up to dib scar and back to Grassington - this looks like a lovely quiet spot to climb at!

[Fiend]

Gollum I can give you short fat weak // injured person's beta for many Man Depot Purples and Reds. Which will be very useful when you get back in 2021.

[gollum]

Gollum I can give you short fat weak // injured person's beta for many Man Depot Purples and Reds. Which will be very useful when you get back in 2021.

That will be very useful as appear to hit most of the criteria at the moment.

[JohnM]

Weight: 10st6lb

Indoor route training goal before Istria in mid-April:

7c+
7c+ 8a
7c+ 8a 8a+

These indoor route training goals, as well as the trip to Istria are probably over for now, considering the wall is closed until at least April 17th and all the borders are closed. Oh well, at least I got onto the first step of the pyramid.


M: Rest

T: Indoor climbing at KI. Very poor session. Warmed up bouldering but felt heavy with no core. I got very frustrated and then rushed the warm-up and got pumped with a slight strain in my right forearm. The we went onto routes. Warmed up on a 7b and then got high points on an 8a and a 7c+ but then the session went rapidly downhill with no power to make a decent attempt on any other harder routes.

W: Trail run taking around Innsbruck taking in the Sillschluct. This is my new favourite place to go running near the city. You are near the city and the main Brenner highway but inside this narrow gorge it is very peaceful and cool with a nice river to run along side. However, carrying on from the previous week my legs were very sore for most of the run and afterwards. 33km 1264m height gain.

T: AM: Indoor climbing at KI. We arrived at the wall at opening time as they were only letting 100 people in and you could not cross-over between bouldering and routes. Warm-up and then I did a 7c+ by the skin of my teeth. The pump from this meant that the session went downhill quickly afterwards. I tried another 7c+ but powered out at half height and then finished with a 7b and 7a+. PM: Extensive foam rolling and stretching session trying to get rid of the tightness in my body that had developed.

F: I wanted to do a 10km trail run but terminated it after 3.6km with 200m height gain due to a migraine/pounding headache. I was well hydrated so I think this was a tension headache related to work related stress and the ever changing news on impending restrictions w.r.t Covid-19.

S: Trail run around Innsbruck again. This time my leg pain had almost all gone but I was very slow and had no power on the hills. 32km with 1500m height gain.

S: Climbing at Achleiten. Absolutely amazing weather, sunny but with a breeze that had a bit of an icy bite. Maybe even too low humidty as it felt a bit "dry firey" in the morning! The news came in mid-morning that they were imposing an "Ausgangssperre" in Tyrol that would restrict our movement to walking to the shops, essential work or walking alone or with people you live with in groups of less than 5. I still had a decent days climbing, despite the stress of not knowing what would be awaiting on the roads back to the city. I got close to an 8a+ I tried which involves a hard boulder with a frustrating dead point to a small square flat hold. This has a rib of rock on the left of it that if even one finger catches this your fingers get splayed apart and you can't stick the hold. Frustratingly this happened twice! The start of climb is not really hard but is technical so it takes a long time to get to crux only to fall off. By the end of the day I was stressing out about getting home, assuming there would be road blocks or traffic restrictions. In the end it was eerily quiet for a Sunday after a sunny day and we got back without a hitch.

A bit of a mixed week. I had a fair amount of muscle pain and stiffness throughout my body this week. Every so often this happens and my legs get stiff and sore and I think the way I run, particularly downhill changes (I get more flat footed) and this results in lower back pain/stiffness. This combined with some shoulder pain meant that the whole chain from feet to upper body was a bit sore and stiff. Both indoor climbing sessions were a bit disappointing after making week on week progress recently, but that happens. It is obvious I have over done the running for now this year (641km with 34,240m height gain so far) and now I am just getting slower with no power in my legs. I need to cut down on the distance and do some shorter quicker efforts with more recovery to try and get some life back in my legs again. It is not as if I have to worry about fitness or peaking now as all my races are either cancelled or looking like they will be. Climbing is an unknown at the moment. We can't climb indoors anymore but it was looking like we could climb outdoors more often with the good weather forecast and more people home working. However, due to travel restrictions that isn't possible anymore. I am still not sure whether we will be allowed/able to climb locally, travelling on foot or by bike. For now I will be limited to core, pull ups and finger boarding at home.

[SA Chris]

I had a fair amount of muscle pain and stiffness throughout my body this week. Every so often this happens and my legs get stiff and sore and I think the way I run, particularly downhill changes (I get more flat footed) and this results in lower back pain/stiffness. This combined with some shoulder pain meant that the whole chain from feet to upper body was a bit sore and stiff. Both indoor climbing sessions were a bit disappointing after making week on week progress recently, but that happens. It is obvious I have over done the running for now this year (641km with 34,240m height gain so far) and now I am just getting slower with no power in my legs. I need to cut down on the distance and do some shorter quicker efforts with more recovery to try and get some life back in my legs again. It is not as if I have to worry about fitness or peaking now as all my races are either cancelled or looking like they will be.

Do you do any foam rolling, stretches, get a massage or anything? I get a sports massage every 6-8 weeks these days, person i see is very good but expensive, otherwise would like to go monthly.

[SA Chris]

M - weight session - usual curls, flys, pulldowns plus a bit of core.
T - lunch run - 7 km including a few hill reps in the park. Saw a red squirrel, first in a while.
W - wall session - good craic, long session.
T - not a load
F - day off work, hit up Glenshee. Had to drop kids so only got there for 10:30, but it was pretty quiet, longest queue was about 6 people. Pistes in great shape, everything else hard ice, with a few pockets of fresh, blasted everything that was open a few times, used new Cairnwell chair for the first time. Nice, but I miss the old one many chair. Cloud came in and light went flat about 3 pm, so left and stopped for a look at Vat Burn Crags on the way home. Some great looking buttresses, but also some shoddy overgrown looking fillers too. The high E routes look amazingly good,  https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=16580
S - Found out the Ultra I have been training for is cancelled (bit gutted, but hey ho in the grand scheme of things), so decided to sack off the usual 40 km ish run on Saturday afternoon, and got on with getting bouldering wall in the garage done. Amazing how much you can get done with a bit of time and energy. Went for a walk with kids, glad i wasn't running was pretty chilly.
S - more wall work. Walk with kids in afternoon again.

[Coops_13]

M: Apartment Gym. Core workout - 300 core movements. 18 alternating medicine ball pressups. Squats up 10 110lb (5 reps * 3). Wrist curls 15lb, 10lb. Bicep curls 40lb, shoulder press 100lb, chest press 115lb. 8 reps, 3 sets. Last set 35lb, 85lb, 100lb respectively

T: Mesa Rim San Diego. Nice gym but very warm with inconsistent grading. Flashed two V5s on warmup then shut down on others. Fought hard for a V4 and two more V5s. Sent a V6 in 5 or 6 goes. Warmth ruined my skin. BM1k BW deadheangs 10 sec * 5. Front lever pulls. Did muscle-ups on bar for first time since injury with no pain

T: Morrison Black Hole. Warmed up and was psyched to repeat the sandbag V5 Helicopter. Got stuck into Revlon V6, harder eliminate version of Helicopter, really good moves. Worked out beta and ended up falling from the last move, need better PE. Psyched

S: Three Sisters Park. Up to Energy Crag to start where I quickly sent Energy V5 (6C) after warming up. Then did the much better variation to the right, No Energy V5 (gets V6 but I thought 6C+).

Tried Thievery V8 briefly but anti-style so moved on. Went to Prince Charles, an amazing V8 compression roof - completely my cup of tea. Couldn't touch it - I think my wrist is having trouble on super steep things Finished the day at Work and Play area, on Child's Play. After considerable effort did the dyno (gets V4+ on MP but solid V5 I think). Started on the sit and v pleased to fire that off. Gets V6-7 on MP, solid V6 I think. First 6 since injury


S: 4 mile hike round Matthew-Winters Park with fiancee to scope out some boulders. Checked out the Millennium boulder which was cool. 100 press-ups over the day

Been downgrading boulders a bit over here, need to rein it in else I'll become a state-side Will Hunt. Worth it if it makes me lanky too I guess...

All indoor walls shut here now so every session is an outdoor session. Also Bishop looks off so may make it over to Joe's instead - not sure yet.

[Bradders]

M - chanced Baildon Bank early afternoon. Had to walk the dog anyway. Bone dry. Warmed up flashing the non-eliminate version of Armistice, climbing it monkey-up-a-stick fashion compressing between arete and crack. Maybe 7A this way, fun. Then onto Pinch 32. Had about 50 goes in a short space of time, trying all sorts of different methods all of which felt like they might work but didn't. Realised I'd had loads of goes, had a short rest and did it. Quite unexpected! Had 5 minutes on the moves from the sit and then it rained.

Went to the Depot on the way home. Re-warmed up then flashed half a dozen of the new purples, followed by a project session on four of the oranges, two of which I'd previously tried. Good progress on three of them making long links. Fourth was just weird and I couldn't work it out.

T - lunch yoga and stretching

W - as Tuesday

T - back to Baildon. Super marginal day, lots of showers so felt like best option. Warmed up on Hades Roof, including doing a 6C called Slopers which was surprisingly good. Then Pinch 32. Repeated the stand third go which was satisfying, then worked the sitter. Took ages to work out a sequence, went down lots of dead ends with moves that worked in isolation but didn't as part of a sequence. It's remarkably involved this thing considering its stature! Anyway, after lots of goes from the start and tweaking found a solid sequence. Had to keep covering the top with a pad as each shower rolled in, then having attempts when they passed. Last two attempts were the best; climbing into the stand but too tired to do the hard move.

F - as Tuesday and Wednesday

S - Back Bowden. Arrived mid-afternoon, turning off the A1 just as it started raining. Thankfully it was short-lived and everything was bone dry, catching a very strong breeze. Perfect really. After a very brief warm up did Little Pixies 2nd go. Really should have actually tried to flash but dropped off after a couple of moves as fingers not warm. Fantastic board style crimping on perfect rock. Flashed the 6C to the left which was almost as good. Tried Hard Reign Direct and did it in overlapping halves but couldn't link in a few goes; the wind was whipping round the arete and blowing my pads away so sacked it. Moved onto Severus Snape. Remember looking at this on last visit years ago, thinking it looked great. Had an average flash go falling well short on the crux move, but worked the move and end sequence, then did it 2nd go from the start. Very satisfying, like a yellow in the Depot but miles better. Getting fed up with the wind had a quick go on The Bitch as it was sheltered there; didn't make much of an impression.

S - Kyloe In. Earlier plans to go to Simonside and then Kyloe Out cancelled due to the wind. Utterly mint in the woods though. After warm up got on Hitchhikers. Had tried this on a visit over 3 years ago but not made any impression. This time needed to warm up into the holds a bit and work out feet but managed in half a dozen or so goes. Really cool. Would love to do the sitter. Moved on to Yorkshireman but unfortunately the RH undercling aggravated my right elbow noticeably so stopped very quickly. Did The Queens Ear instead in a few goes; absolutely wank this thing, not great movement and awful holds. Skin screaming by this point but had a few throws at Crouching Tiger; couldn't do the first move as didn't commit to holding the edge, but did the top and then ran out of time and skin.

[Dolly]

M shed power
T Gym for core and some kettlebells. Last visit for a while I think
W Jackson Tor with Nai. Same king line as him but I didn’t bother on BSA too high for me. Few plays on Dave but I couldn’t work it out
T Church. I honestly though I’d done Gullivers Travels. Held the last hold but somehow spun off. Battered
F gardening and digging
S more gardening digging[size=78%] and lifting with big tree pruning[/size]
[/size][size=78%]S[/size]
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[/size][size=78%]Alternatively[/size]
[/size][size=78%]M [/size]
[/size][size=78%]T Shahshuka but I whisked the eggs first and finished it under the grill which I thought was better[/size]
[/size][size=78%]W Chana sag with roti[/size]
[/size][size=78%]T Spanish roast potatoes with chillis olives rosemary loads of garlic and feta. Reyt[/size]
[/size][size=78%]F Smoked haddock chowder [/size]
[/size][size=78%]S Trofie with kale and watercress pesto[/size]
[/size][size=78%]S PSB and kale risotto[/size]

[Dolly]

Sorry that all looks a bit weird for some reason

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - fingers, garage. I was very very strong. Bar work in between hangs, DL Emom finisher 70 kg x 5 x 14. Brilliant stuff.
Tue - recovery session, light boxing bag.
Wed - bar work, weights.
Thu - TB rack pulls, heavy. 30" finishers.
Fri - recovery session, light boxing bag.
Sat - tired. Empty bar work, snatch, clean and press. TB pulls.
Sun - 10' of dead hangs on Lattice and 14 mm edge. Started with 20" then 40" rest, but it felt better doing 10"/20". Taxing. Squat, weights, push ups, glutes.

My aim of doing 30' of hang time is a bit ambitious at the moment. The session showed that I am more comfortable with shorter hangs, leaving the same work/rest ratio. To get 30' I've got to change ratio.

[duncan]

STG: Don’t get injured, try hard three times a week. 
MTG-LTG: who knows?.
VLTG: Something Long, Hard and Free tbc

M - Shoulder strength (one arm planks, handstands, tick-tocks); knee strength (high step-ups, single leg squats)
T - Westway with the retired Super Alpinist again. Bouldering warm-up followed by the comp. wall . A good session including some 6b+ and 6cs.  This is about as hard as I ever lead indoors. Felt strong (in a V3 kind of way) which was encouraging but, unsurprisingly, little stamina.   
W - Shoulder and knee strength.
T - Fingerboard max. hangs: strict half crimp and three finger drag. Hard!  Weighted pull-ups (95kg)
F - Knee strength, 10km brisk walk
S - Fingerboard max. hangs: strict half crimp and three finger drag. Knee strength, shoulder strength. Nursing a sickly child.
S - Child still sickly, grown-up now also sickly. Cursory shoulder strength exercises.


On strike last week and this, which has reduced some stresses but introduces others. What do you do when a likely failing student asks for support?

In theory I should now be introducing long stamina work but who knows when I’ll next get to a climbing wall. Might start a thread on how to train Aerocap. at home.

I’m high risk to the rest of you: When I last looked London had as many CV-19 cases as the rest of the UK put together and one of the first was a student where I work. The lad is still going to school which frankly makes the attempts I make to stay relatively isolated almost irrelevant. Traveling out of London, even to obscure sea cliffs, is probably antisocial.

I’ve got a well stocked larder (the other half comes from a country prone to natural disasters and old habits die hard), a good basic home training set-up, and generally cope well with social isolation. Main aim is to avoid injury: with so few other outlets staying at home would then get really frustrating.  .

Silver wedding anniversary next week and have paid to stay at a swanky hotel in London next weekend but that’s all looking iffy now

It has probably become more obvious since you wrote this, but suggest not now.

[teestub]

In theory I should now be introducing long stamina work but who knows when I’ll next get to a climbing wall. Might start a thread on how to train Aerocap. at home.

There’s something on one of the Anderson Brother Trainingbeta podcasts about aerocap on the fingerboard (I think one of them was working in Western Asia).

[Nutty]

I've done aerocap before with feet on a step placed behind a door-frame mounted finger board. Had a BM2000 with a medium campus rung below it and made hand movements between the campus rung, deep slots and 20 degree sloper. Modify difficulty by moving the step forward/back and having either both feet or swapping between feet on the step. Have a podcast or playlist ready to stave off tedium. Think I'll be doing this again now!

[shark]

Silver wedding anniversary next week and have paid to stay at a swanky hotel in London next weekend but that’s all looking iffy now

It has probably become more obvious since you wrote this, but suggest not now

Yes. Just cancelled and to their credit I’ve been offered a full refund