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All this time, it was my right ring-finger that kept me down (Read 633 times)

jwi

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Funny/bizarre anecdotal data

I always knew that my left hand is stronger than my right, in any of the standard grip positions that we usually train on the fingerboard: the half-crimp and the drag with all four fingers or with the front- and back-three respectively.

For the four finger half crimp (with the pinky in drag position) the difference usually hovers around 5% but is sometimes even greater.

Last week I had an operation on my back and to not split any stitches I was asked to do no overhead work and not lift anything heavier than 10 kg with my left (which I interpreted as 25kg). I did some training with using a small edge and a mono pocket to lift weights from the ground. This way I loaded every finger individually with fairly light weights and noticed that in the half crimp position on a somewhat shallow mono my left ring finger is at least 15% stronger than the right.

There were some tiny imbalances for the other fingers as well, but well within the error of margin I suspect.

The sum of the weight lifted with my left hand's fingers was 5% higher than the weight lifted with my left, as before but all of the difference is just down to one single finger!

I do not think this is useful knowledge to me or to anyone else, but I found it a bit mysterious and slightly amusing.

I am probably the only one.

Nutty

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Any historical injuries to the right ring finger?

Ru

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Also been doing weights with a shallow mono pocket. My imbalances are weird. Middle fingers same both sides, left ring about 5% weaker than right, left index about 20% weaker, left pinky about 10% stronger. Although the wooden mono-think I'm using does seem to be susceptible to small changes in greasiness. A bit of chalk makes a huge difference.

jwi

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Also been doing weights with a shallow mono pocket. My imbalances are weird. Middle fingers same both sides, left ring about 5% weaker than right, left index about 20% weaker, left pinky about 10% stronger. Although the wooden mono-think I'm using does seem to be susceptible to small changes in greasiness. A bit of chalk makes a huge difference.

Yeah, it fluctuated quite a bit for me as well, but most differences averaged out over the session apart from the right ring finger. For the index and the pinky I found the pulls a bit tweeky and it was hard to get the right position/coordination for a strong pull. Your left index sounds useless, cut it off!

Ru

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Your left index sounds useless, cut it off!

Well my plan was to train it up, tbh.

jwi

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Hey, don't knock it. Worked for Mr. Caldwell!

Banana finger

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Ah this is pretty interesting. Kinda like my post about weak index fingers.

I think it is really useful to measure each finger individually to see which ones are pulling their weight.

I think it is pretty easy for a finger to get weak and the others to start overcompensating allowing that finger to get weaker still.

I kept getting a lot of injuries in my right ring finger and I think the reason why is that my middle and index on the right were really weak compared to the left...I think my ring (wayooo) was basically carrying my other main fingers and thus kept getting injured.


 

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