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The ultimate height/weight equaliser algorithm (WIP). (Read 5235 times)

Dexter

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I think everyone is still missing the point of this slightly.

You can eat pain au chocolat all day and get heavy without changing your grades in any way.

Also does this mean everyone will then need to bring scales to the crag?

Fiend

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Good point, I'll definitely rejig it to include a cube or cube root, will look more convincing.

From outside the forum, it turns out Sloper's multiplier is 1.24 so V6 = V7.5. Does this mean that he's overall a vastly better climber than say, to pick an entirely random example, "Will Hunt" ?? It pains me to say, but - yes.

tomtom

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Are you particularly fucking bored today Fiend?

FFS - whats your address, I'll amazon you a 10000 piece jigsaw of a starry sky to keep you busy,

Dexter

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I think everyone is still missing the point here. This means you can eat pain au chocolat all day, get heavy and still climb the same grades.

Also does this then bring in requirements for weighing scales at the crag?

Fiend

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I've already ordered a jigsaw of a Space Marine for the missus thanks to andy popp's suggestion  :lol:  :lol:

P.S. Sorry this isn't meant to detract from the coronavirus nor shoe sizing/stretching threads - they're all still there.

SA Chris

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From outside the forum, it turns out Sloper's multiplier is 1.24 so V6 = V7.5. Does this mean that he's overall a vastly better climber than say, to pick an entirely random example, "Will Hunt" ?? It pains me to say, but - yes.

To be fair though, Sloper is a proper stumper, you can't piggyback on him (you'd squash him flat for starters).

thekettle

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Fiend I feel this is directly targeted at long armed dwarfs like myself - at 1.63m with a +10cm AI I score 0.64 meaning I've just plummeted 4 V grades  :boohoo:

I think the debilitating effect of broad shoulders and inflexible hips should definitely be accounted for  :tease:
#pubscience

I would also love to see Mooses' score as he's lighter than me but a foot taller..

Fiend

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Kettle if you're a lightweight orangutang the yes things might feel 4 grades easier ;).

Moose might end up in negative V grades so I'm hoping he hasn"t seen this...

cheque

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Commiserations John but the algorithm doesn’t lie and you’ll just have to accept that you’re no good at climbing.

Personally I’m going to take up rugby- on the face of it they won’t have me on any team but when I show them the equation I’ve designed that means for that every twenty minutes I’m on the pitch instead of a big stocky bloke we get three bonus points I reckon they’ll be well up for it.

Bradders

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Also does this then bring in requirements for weighing scales at the crag?

Isn't that already part of the Lattice programme? How else can you track your gainz?

Anyway, this is clearly bullshit. I refute the idea that long arms is a help; on many problems it's a genuine hindrance especially board style crimping or bunched stuff. My opinion has nothing to do with the output that V11 is V6 for me apparently  ;)

moose

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Kettle if you're a lightweight orangutang the yes things might feel 4 grades easier ;).

Moose might end up in negative V grades so I'm hoping he hasn"t seen this...

To be honest, I suspect my  (old) physique was outside the working limits of your algorithm / excuse generator.  Re the effect of weight, I've put on 7-8 kg since you last saw me and seem to be a better climber for it, at least for bouldering (and whilst I didn't try anything particularly hard on my recent trip to Spain, my stamina wasn't too worrying).  Basically, whilst I used to be able to hang off tiny crimps for ages, now I can actually move between them!

Fiend

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Well a few sparks and a puff of smoke spat out of the algorithmiser upon your appearance but it seems to be essentially intact, phew.

Glad you're climbing well.

moose

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Well a few sparks and a puff of smoke spat out of the algorithmiser upon your appearance but it seems to be essentially intact, phew.

Glad you're climbing well.

Cheers fella, to be honest, climbing was the least of my concerns.  My main motivations to add a bit of bulk were to mitigate my perpetual neck / shoulder pains and feel slightly less cold all the time! I'm not sure if I'm climbing "well" but it's certainly different than before - cutting loose is no longer the end of the affair etc.

Will Hunt

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Bit bloke-centric this? I wonder how many males with a multiplier of >=1 (who will inevitably be those people who moan at their friends at the wall or crag about being lanky or light or whatever) would give quarter to those ladies who are even worse off than they are.
As a population, ladies tend to be shorter, less powerful, naturally carry a higher % body fat, AND some even have great big boobies which must push them away from the rock on slab problems.

crimpinainteasy

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(2 x 83) / ((181 + (5 x 1)) - 25)=1.031055900621118
I climb about font 7B+


As a population, ladies tend to be shorter, less powerful, naturally carry a higher % body fat, AND some even have great big boobies which must push them away from the rock on slab problems.

They're also lighter and more flexible, which is basically cheating.
« Last Edit: March 12, 2020, 12:04:35 pm by crimpinainteasy »

 

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